Lockridge Device - Peter Lindemann

[Peter Lindemann]

I Disagree

Hi all

Hi Matt

thank's a lot for sharing your great work. and i am sorry that your big fly wheel does not bring you the power you expected.

But if i look at your shematic, i see that you fire 3 consecutives collector sections,
which greatly consume current and this ,on a long time and the longer the consuming time is leaving a longer place to Mister Lenz (counter generated voltage ) to oper, and this against you.

And secondly as your brushes are 90 degree of each other , as per your shematic ,they do not contact at the right place for the recuperation of the BACKSPIKE (radiant energy ) but they are recuperating the counter BEMF ( this is exactly what Mister Lenz expected you would do ) which slow your rotor down.

Sorry to insist on the point

but we need ONE SINGLE "GUN SHOT" PULSE per revolution, and nothing else.
Each time we try to gain some more pulse ,Mister Lenz is behind the corner, and will slam his baseball bat right in your face. So do not let any chance to Mister Lenz to be TALLER try to keep him at the gnome size.

My point of view

And if i am out of this thinking here ,please mention and i will stop my intervention.

Good luck at all

Laurent

Woopy,

Results of a real test model ALWAYS trump theories to the contrary. In this case, Matt's test motor is running extremely well, producing high speed and torque, and returning a reasonable amount of the input electricity.

I suggest that you build your own test model according to your own understandings and let us know how that works, and not waste too much time trying to convince us that Matt's motor is theoretically flawed, which does NOT seem to be the case, based on actual performance.

With all respect,
Peter

[woopy]

Hi all


Hi Peter

i reread a lot of pages ago to restructure ma mind on this project

And on post 957 ,

i would like that you further explain your mind, because i see a great possibility of improvement here

Thank's

Laurent

[woopy]

try to minimise Mister Lenz as a gnome

Hi all

Hi Matt

thank's a lot for sharing your great work. and i am sorry that your big fly wheel does not bring you the power you expected.

But if i look at your shematic, i see that you fire 3 consecutives collector sections,
which greatly consume current and this ,on a long time and the longer the consuming time is leaving a longer place to Mister Lenz (counter generated voltage ) to oper, and this against you.

And secondly as your brushes are 90 degree of each other , as per your shematic ,they do not contact at the right place for the recuperation of the BACKSPIKE (radiant energy ) but they are recuperating the counter BEMF ( this is exactly what Mister Lenz expected you would do ) which slow your rotor down.

Sorry to insist on the point

but we need ONE SINGLE "GUN SHOT" PULSE per revolution, and nothing else.
Each time we try to gain some more pulse ,Mister Lenz is behind the corner, and will slam his baseball bat right in your face. So do not let any chance to Mister Lenz to be TALLER try to keep him at the gnome size.

My point of view

And if i am out of this thinking here ,please mention and i will stop my intervention.

Good luck at all

Laurent

[Matthew Jones]

No problem.

A friend of mine handed me those caps and say "Have Fun, Be careful". Or I wouldn't own them either. LOL

I think you can use just about any cap you want as long as it is a under 10k uf.
The point is to split the incoming power up so you unload your coil at point that is at lower potential but still in the system.
I would dump it in the battery but looks like a pretty big load to the generator and it does not take the charge usefully.

Matt

[Peter Lindemann]

Great Plans!

Alright I wrote it all. The schematic, the details of the parts, the brush wiring, and the motor outline.
You can cut and paste from below or get link here. Motor Details



Any questions or improvements let me know.

It not going to rain tomorrow so I'll be building something to test the the torque. So most likely I won't be around during the day, I'll be in the shop.

Enjoy
Matt

Matt,

Thanks for putting this together so nicely. Just to help people understand a few more details: this motor operates with ONE PULSE PER REVOLUTION and uses what we have been calling the "zig-zag" winding on the rotor.

Here is a hot link to the motor being used:
24 Volt 250 Watt Motor with #25 Chain Sprocket for Razor E300, Mini Chopper, MX350 (Versions 9+), Pocket Mod, Pocket Rocket, and Sport Mod

Here is a hot link to the diodes:
MUR460-E3/54 Vishay Semiconductors Rectifiers

Capacitors with these ratings have gotten quite expensive, so you may want to look around in the surplus sites. I didn't find anything under $30 each.

A similar Battery can be purchased here:
12V 5Ah Sealed Rechargeable Battery
This is a pretty good price for brand new SLA batteries.

Hope this helps. Thanks again, Matt.

Peter

[Matthew Jones]

Awesome write up Matt! Great pictures, don't know what kind of programs your using, but that is very impressive.
Mark

@Mark.... Photoshop

Had a bad morning. My plan didn't work. But lesson learned.
YouTube - DoNotDoThis.MPG

Cheers
Matt

[Mark]

Awesome write up Matt! Great pictures, don't know what kind of programs your using, but that is very impressive.

Mark

[Peter Lindemann]

Excellent

Robbush,

Thanks for the pics. This is the configuration I originally thought would work very well. You will get 4 power pulses per revolution, so be careful not to raise the voltage too high. It should really rip on 36 volts with excellent torque.

It looks like you still have some room in the rotor slots, which you may want to fill with more wire (later).

The work on the brush system looks very good.

I look forward to your test results.

Peter

[Robbush]

Another one interested

After reading this when it was 10 pages I went out to the garage and found a 2 pole stator, 12 slot rotor 12 volt motor. It didn't state its rpms, but says 12 volt @ 9 amps draw. I have rewound it with two coils 90^ off, with 40 turns 22ga wire. I but it all together and tested with a cordless drill battery, it wants to spin the wrong way. But it seemed to take off fast and had some torque, only ran for a few seconds. I am going to flip the coil connections at the commutator to fix the direction issue. Here are some pics, looking forward to sharing my results.





Peace
rawbush

[Matthew Jones]

PaulT
When you wound the thing did you put a diode on the end of the windings. Your motor as described will only fire once per revolution also so you have to have a diode on the end to keep the power from flowing backwards.

With 18 your gonna need at least a 12 amp diode with surge of somewhere like 50 amp.

Maybe try smaller wire like 24 - 26 if you have it. If not get s big diode and add to the end.

Matt

[pault]

I have been using a 5 amp analog and a 10 amp digital.

Whats the specs on your windings and how did wire it up. I know your using another motor I would be happy to guess at the problem as I have been through few now.

Matt

2 very wide PM's in the cowling (outer shell). It seems like there is only one commutator section worth of space between the two PM's.

10 slots in the armature.

18awg from slot 1 to slot 6 in, I think, zig-zag[*] winding. One winding to the right of the shaft (top and bottom) the next winding to the left of the shaft. 30 turns. More or less filled the slots. I don't think that I could have put many more windings in the slots.

I think that I positioned my secondary brushes one commutator section away from the run brushes. When I run this version of the motor, I don't smell or see any arc'ing. I think that the motor is turning in the proper direction, from run brush to recovery brush.

thanks
pt
[*] I'm not using a zig-zag winding. It is a single coil wound between slot 1 and slot 6, with each winding alternating right/left of the center axle, to maintain balance.

[Matthew Jones]

I hooked an old bakelite (Simpson) ammeter, set to 10A (max) into the motor circuit in series with the +ve of the run battery.

The fuse (fast blow) in the meter immediately vaporized.

What range of meter are you guys using for this?

pt

I have been using a 5 amp analog and a 10 amp digital.

Whats the specs on your windings and how did wire it up. I know your using another motor I would be happy to guess at the problem as I have been through few now.

Matt

[Matthew Jones]

Details

Alright I wrote it all. The schematic, the details of the parts, the brush wiring, and the motor outline.
You can cut and paste from below or get link here. Motor Details



Any questions or improvements let me know.

It not going to rain tomorrow so I'll be building something to test the the torque. So most likely I won't be around during the day, I'll be in the shop.

Enjoy
Matt

[pault]

Ammeter

I hooked an old bakelite (Simpson) ammeter, set to 10A (max) into the motor circuit in series with the +ve of the run battery.

The fuse (fast blow) in the meter immediately vaporized.

What range of meter are you guys using for this?

pt

[pault]

Scaope trace

I have the 12v motor + 2nd brushes + diode to discharge battery running on 12vdc as per post #263. Here is the scope trace:

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2465/img0117vk.jpg

The "straight" line, channel A, is the +ve terminal of the recharge battery (i.e. cathode of the diode). It is zeroed at the bottom. If there are any +ve spikes, then they are too dim to see (with the intensity cranked to max).

Channel B is on the anode of the diode (i.e. attached to discharge brush directly). It's centered at the middle of the scope, i.e. it spikes to -12v for 2ms every 7ms.

This is not what I expected to see.

Is something wired backwards, are the brushes not connecting at the right time, or am I misunderstanding what I should expect to see?

thanks
pt