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How close are your rotor, to your drive coil?
Matt
Matt
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I am still working on the TS motor. I purchased 1/8" welding rods to strip for iron inside. Usually you can soke them in water and flux falls off. These didn't. Not sure about why but I am stripping them a little at a time till they are done. The Boards are coming Thursday so hopefully I will have it together by the weekend. Start the testing.
Cheers
MattComment
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Maybe if close that up that bit you can get higher speeds. Not sure if that's something you have looked at.
MattComment
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Hi Matt,
I thought you would be thinking I was to close, so that's a relief.
Wound a new coil, turned out to be 67 ohms. So one coil, at 70 some volts, it runs quite nice at 7.26 watts. but not close to OU yet.
RonComment
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No I think you would get few more RPM's out of it if the coils were closer. The motor is a Puller, the magnets pull into the coils??. Just looks that way from the timing wheel.. Maybe I am wrong. But anyway maybe the circuit could be more of an H bridge type. Pull them in and push them off. Point would be to get the RPM's up a bit so you can back feed with a coil or 2 that doesn't slow you down. Get the total amp draw down.Comment
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HI, thanks for tip. I am trying to keep this thread clean of anything other than the projects I'll be posting on here or replications of past projects and discussion. You can start a thread on your stuff and I'll read through it.
@all I will be posting some updates here soon on the TS Motor. Got held up last month with other stuff and the holidays and such.
MattComment
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You changed your post?? What...
I guess I got to do this because someone is bored and impolite. We can start with the above statement. ANSWER: There was very little truth in your post. I did not claim OU. On that fact I didn't even post a schematic. It was posted on another thread and in a publication I wrote 10+ years ago very basic. So the original build I and ran along time but all it did was spin. This build is a Buck converting Tesla switch. The fields in the inductor drive a rotor. The attempt at the circuit is to be around 95% efficient in its conversion and the power is highly regulated DC with very little ripple so we can charge Lithium's without them overheating and to be able take advantage of their efficiency. All this without suffering BUCK collapse.Originally posted by Wlazlak View Post
Then the hope is to be able to add a generator coil to recover those losses, while keeping the expected rpms up to calculated value and recovering the power in a suitable fashion so that it is lithium compliant. I hope to add second generator to run a small load. Keeps its batteries charged, runs a small load, or that's goal anyway. Very simple..
My language is clear, I am calculating everything with MATH and sticking to it, very much reality. REAL...work tested. Like all the projects I have done in the past.
So please in future don't post on this thread unless you want to discuss the content that is covered on this thread. And please don't tell me what is possible and not possible before I even get it running and have some results. Your opinions are not welcome and not the truth. They are spam.
Matt
And just for good measure since you like to change your post I am going copy the second version of your post.
Originally posted by Wlazlak View PostLast edited by Matthew Jones; 01-04-2023, 09:46 AM.Comment
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SO I have tried to start it up 2 times now the first time the fet's blew instantly. The second run that I tried this morning actually ran about minute. The TVS diodes I put in went first then the fets, but it ran a minute so got a little thrill from it. Apparently the TVS diodes cannot handle the spiking they are very tiny. I am going to beef the board up and get a little bigger parts for it.
test2dead.jpg
I'll review everything once I get a running version as well as do some tests.
See ya soon.
MattComment
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Na.... That's going a little overboard... I didn't spend but 22 Dollars on the boards and everything else I had. I just have to add a better collection snubber across the coils to reduce the ringing. You have to use a double mosfets for the serial switch and I am sure not going to buy 4 $33 dollar gan fets to do the job. They also have a High RDS on compared to what I am using.
Thanks
MattComment
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Hey Matt,
have you thought about using GDTs (gas discharge tubes) as snubbers? They are pretty cheap, only around 3 or 4 bucks each and they can discharge up to 20 amps or so. You can order them for a pretty wide range of voltage where they discharge. From a few hundred volts up to around a thousand or so volts. Looking forward to seeing your motor run. I also may have a video to show you in a day or so. Working on something now.
Take care,
CarrollJust because someone disagrees with you does NOT make them your enemy. We can disagree without attacking someone.Comment
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Ya I have looked at those The biggest problem I was having is the voltage of the Mosfets in serial position was too low. The ringing from the coils is pretty high so a good old resistive snubber does the trick. I was trying parts that I had in my inventory but I ended up beefing everything up above what I should need then I'll scale it back down later to keep it cheaper and more efficient.
I should have everything back together this week. I haven't given it my full attention cause this year the heat is coming and I want to grow a good number crops. Wednesday and Thursday I think are going to be in the eighties and this is February. So I have really stay on the ball to make sure everything is going to produce. Its flippin me out a bit.
Anyway fully measured results coming soon.
Cheers
MattComment
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Hi Matt
Please message me
VissieComment
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