Question to UfoPolitics

[robur]

Friend sent me a small text titled like that

The Cold Electricity Coil of UFOpolitics

I tried google search, found some text on a site that is pay to read.
No diagrams
His text is dated to 2013 or 2014
Details in text:

- the most basic version of back emf collection
- simple
- may be related to multi diodes blocking, passing, reflecting, voltage
- basics of cold current?
- the non closed circuit (open circut) basis of collecting


Dear Ufo Politics - would you please link me any resource on this coil of yours?
If that is OK ofc.
Friend is running a project and he thinking if this can be used as power source, but can't seem to find more detailed explanation and/or diagramm

Thank you
Robur

[Ufopolitics]

Friend sent me a small text titled like that

The Cold Electricity Coil of UFOpolitics

I tried google search, found some text on a site that is pay to read.
No diagrams
His text is dated to 2013 or 2014
Details in text:

- the most basic version of back emf collection
- simple
- may be related to multi diodes blocking, passing, reflecting, voltage
- basics of cold current?
- the non closed circuit (open circut) basis of collecting


Dear Ufo Politics - would you please link me any resource on this coil of yours?
If that is OK ofc.
Friend is running a project and he thinking if this can be used as power source, but can't seem to find more detailed explanation and/or diagramm

Thank you
Robur

Hello Robur,

WOW...that was a looong time ago, my friend!!
It was back on the beginnings of 2012...when I opened my first Thread on this Forum:

http://www.energeticforum.com/forum/...radiant-energy

I was revealing first all the insides of my Motor Coils, before opening my second Thread:

http://www.energeticforum.com/forum/...namic-machines

And also on my YouTube Chanel, I have plenty of videos where I show some details about my experiments, circuits, etc...

I did so many Coils brother!!...but the Basic ones were simple coils, one strand of 18 gauge or so, which turns gave you around One(1) Ohm...

but the main trick is on my LOGO Picture...the way to set the Diodes in order to collect Radiant Energy.:

The Red side is the Hot Electricity (Input)...and the Blue side is the Cold or Radiant side...or Output
If you notice the Red Positive symbol Cross is fragmented, which means Pulsed Positive plus Ground...


I used a Motor Controller, based on a 555 Timer and some FET's...the Diagrams should be somewhere on those Threads...I will have to look for my Archives, and really I am involved (very busy) in a bunch of things that am working on right now...but I will try finding the image of the Diagram...but it is not such a big deal either...

Controller is based on a simple PWM Square Wave Generator, which can work from 12 to 36 Volts, and a Potentiometer (Variable Resistor) where you could tune your Frequencies Up and Low.

Problem with Radiant Energy is that is very hard to store...you will have to build your own HV Capacitors...BECAUSE You will definitely BLOW many AC HV and Electrolytic trying to store it.

But it is Wonderful!!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[robur]

Thank you very much for reply.
We ( me & friend ) not looking to store it.
Just amplify it to use it as power source for Cold Magnet, Cold Elektret and Apex Amplifier. It is an engine that has pyramid-shaped rotor.
I am racing to complete everything before British weather becomes too unpredictable past September.
So, me and him would have things to play with over Autumn/Winter.

I will post results from my end.
He might not, tho
He is kind of thinking of a monetary gain.
Hopefully, I can convince him to re-think it.

[sampojo]

Hey Ufo, long time no see ;-) Glad to have found this about all the work you did on those threads. Did you see one of my last posts on the My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines ? It was how to make a (hopefully) asymmetric machine using only ONE commutator. Well at least you can maintain subcoil independence and still get the better-than-Edison-style-motor performance so characteristic of your motors. If you have a motor with an EVEN number of poles, you can make a balanced wrap of independent coils, one per pole, and bring each sub-coil wire end back to the other side of the commutator, instead of out the other side to a second commutator (as long as there is an even number of poles, of course!). I couldn't help noticing that you got 75-85% of the top free-running rpms out of a dual commutator motor out of just powering one set of coils. When I powered the second side of motor with a dual commutator (and 4 connections that can power 2 independent subcoils at the same time), the rpm on one of my motors would go from, say 24000 rpm to about 28000. So you only got another 10-15% out of the second subcoil being powered, and the current draw increasing about the same amount. I was surprised by that and I thought it would more like double. I could only surmise that the internal E-M fields would somehow constrain the current flow in the second set of coils being powered up, and the current/rpms not essentially doubling. So you can get most of the benefit of the independent coils with only one commutator (with even # of poles). I'd have to dig around to try to find it, but you follow me with this? Right now I just bought a little electric car at a yard sale for my grand kids and it is sorely underpowered. Unfortunately the type of motor that it uses (Johnson) has only odd poles, so I have to use the dual commutator design :-( I have a similar size motor with even # of poles, but not sure if I can make it work... Guess I need to take another look...

[Ufopolitics]

Hey Ufo, long time no see ;-) Glad to have found this about all the work you did on those threads. Did you see one of my last posts on the My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines ? It was how to make a (hopefully) asymmetric machine using only ONE commutator. Well at least you can maintain subcoil independence. If you have a motor with an EVEN number of poles, you can make a balanced wrap of independent coils, one per pole, and bring each sub-coil wire end back to the other side of the commutator, instead of out the other side to a second commutator (as long as there is an even number of poles, of course!). I couldn't help noticing that you got 75-85% of the top free-running rpms out of a dual commutator motor out of just powering one set of coils. When I powered the second side of motor with a dual commutator (and 4 connections that can power 2 independent subcoils at the same time), the rpm on one of my motors would go from, say 24000 rpm to about 28000. So you only got another 10-15% out of the second subcoil being powered, and the current draw strangely the same. I was surprised by that and I thought it would more like double. I could only surmise that the internal E-M fields would somehow constrain the current flow in the second set of coils being powered up, and the current/rpms not essentially doubling. So you can get most of the benefit of the independent coils with only one commutator (with even # of poles). I'd have to dig around to try to find it, but you follow me with this? Right now I just bought a little electric car at a yard sale for my grand kids and it is sorely underpowered. Unfortunately the type of motor that it uses (Johnson) has only odd poles, so I have to use the dual commutator design :-( I have a similar size motor with even # of poles, but not sure if I can make it work... Guess I need to take another look...

Hello my old friend Sampojo!!

But of course I did see your latest work!!
Yes, and I remember that someone, once in the MAEM Thread posted a similar setup with one commutator...but not like the one you are working on, based on subcoils.
Now, remember that whenever the coils are off, after being energized, they reverse voltage polarity...so having a common ground will have some transient spikes at idle...a remedy for this could be to set a fast switching diode, with the proper V-Capability to filter away the reverse voltage flow...

I did read you here as well, as soon as you wrote it...but am busy, very....I will be posting soon the reviving of an old technology, and I know you will love it...just because you are one of the best replicators here...along with Machinealive, Cornboy and others...and I hope they are still around here...

Glad to see you again, and please, stay tuned...and hold your socks...real tight!!...LOL

Regards


Ufopolitics

[robur]

That sounds really interesting, UfoPolitics.
When you post what ever you describing here, please drop a link here to have a look
Cheers

[Ufopolitics]

That sounds really interesting, UfoPolitics.
When you post what ever you describing here, please drop a link here to have a look
Cheers

Yes Robur...of course I will do...and, as a matter of FACT...here it is..:

Regards


Ufopolitics

[robur]

Yes Robur...of course I will do...and, as a matter of FACT...here it is..:

Regards


Ufopolitics

I am sorry to say that I never heard of Luling. Howard Jonson, yes. But of luling, honestly no.
I downloaded that video.
I watch it tomorrow.
I briefly looked at it.
Question - parts made of silvery metal - is it Aluminum?
Or something else?

Cheers

[thaelin]

I would have to bet on 316 SS as an AU frame and rotating surfaces in a magnetic field will cause drag depending on how close of how much. Excess heat too. I used to use AU rotors until I found one getting hot and could not figure it out. Went to composite rotors and it stopped immed. The video to me showed a large mass as it didn't move at all when running. JMO there tho.

[robur]

I would have to bet on 316 SS as an AU frame and rotating surfaces in a magnetic field will cause drag depending on how close of how much. Excess heat too. I used to use AU rotors until I found one getting hot and could not figure it out. Went to composite rotors and it stopped immed. The video to me showed a large mass as it didn't move at all when running. JMO there tho.

My friend in Russia has a monopole rotor housing made of aluminum. All magnets are North pole in-wards. He never had any heat-up effect.
If it is 315 Stan less Steel, then such replication is beyond my tool level. Your rotor got hot due to eddy currents. And you could not convert those currents to extra energy.

[Ufopolitics]

I am sorry to say that I never heard of Luling. Howard Jonson, yes. But of luling, honestly no.
I downloaded that video.
I watch it tomorrow.
I briefly looked at it.
Question - parts made of silvery metal - is it Aluminum?
Or something else?

Cheers

Hello Robur,

"Getting to know" Fredrich Luling only takes One Minute and Fifty seconds (1:50)...that is what the "one and only" video lasts...

The "silvery" material is plain and simple Aluminum...(Al)
I used also steel, regular carbon steel, brass and Stainless Steel Nuts Bolts and washers...(All Fasteners)
There is absolutely zero heat here...as even the Valve and air piston gets cooler in the operation...

Regards


Ufopolitics