Donald Smith Devices too good to be true

[TheStone]

The B&W coils im using are 2404TL, and have a couple 2408TL's and a 2410TL
120$ per coil
ive also used 3408, the 4 inch dia mamas, at 500$ per coil


But dont be fooled by tinned coils and high prices, you can make a very good coil on your own, Dynatron says that bare copper is best.
I just wanted to have the ones that Don used,..... just because i wanted them LOL

the 24 means 3 inch dia, last 2 digits represent the turns per inch 04, 08, 10, and the TL means tinned inductor

AND you have the PVM500, you definitely have most of what you need, im still experimenting with exact values, but il have a schem soon, but in my last vid 33 i feel i show the connections well, let me know.

primary circuit has 15nF with 601uH 102turns tuned to 53 khz.
secondary needs no caps, but has a little more than 10nF with 40uH 18 turns tuned to approx 212 khz.
im actually using 26.5khz on the driver, 53khz actually works with such resistance that it practically seizes right up,

i can actually turn it up to 95volts, and it only draws 100ma, but like i said, such resistance, not much action, with 26.5khz worked best ( half of 53khz)
L1 being tuned to 2 times the driver freq and L2 being tuned to 3 times the driver freq (harmonics)

In music if you take a note and go up an octave, it is still the same note (tone) just exactly doubled, or trippled the frequency, still "in tune"
Seems to work great

Dear Amigo,

Thanks for the email,

I got 4 2408 and 4 2804, and couple more, I did the same, bought them because Smith had them LOL.

what do you mean by "you definitely have most of what you need" ? what do you think I am missing ?

I just started to play with all this after few months of studying, but when I try to find the resonant frequency on the B&M coils, the always are in the Mhz, no in the lower khz... why are you working on the khz and not the Mhz, even Don said he worked on the 200Mhz.

I am assuming that when you said "i can actually turn it up to 95volts, and it only draws 100ma," the ma are from the PVM500, but when you say 95volts what is the amps?


The Stone.

[mr.clean]

Dear Amigo,

Thanks for the email,

I got 4 2408 and 4 2804, and couple more, I did the same, bought them because Smith had them LOL.

what do you mean by "you definitely have most of what you need" ? what do you think I am missing ?

I just started to play with all this after few months of studying, but when I try to find the resonant frequency on the B&M coils, the always are in the Mhz, no in the lower khz... why are you working on the khz and not the Mhz, even Don said he worked on the 200Mhz.

I am assuming that when you said "i can actually turn it up to 95volts, and it only draws 100ma," the ma are from the PVM500, but when you say 95volts what is the amps?


The Stone.

Ok, im still new to this too, but when Don said 200mhz he couldve only been refering to the wavelength.
And in length, 200mhz means 1.49 meters / 149.9cm / 4.917ft long

But wavelength and resonant freq can be confusing, yes they almost imply the same thing, and yes if you had a 200mhz driver it would be great, but i think that is assuming you are using a straight wire,

when we coil a wire, it accumulates inductance and self capacitance, these 2 factors naturally lower the resonant freq of your coil, higher the inductance and/or capacitance, the lower your resonant freq will be.

this can be exploited by using capacitors for extra capacitance to match with the driver/other coils.
Just like a radio dial, it can be a very sensitive adjustment, but keeping true to the 1/4 ratio, you will not only get resonance with the fundamental freq, but the 3rd, 5th, 9th harmonic,and to infinatum.

and is naturally tuned by length, then measured to find exact values of inductance to then establish what capacitance you need based on the driver freq.

you prob just need to measure your inductances, decide on a freq, organize what caps you want to use, wind up an L1 coil, hookup your primary circuit,get a couple of skinny ferrite rods to adjust inductance, maybe use half of B&W coil for L2 and use ccw turns for other half of L2, other wise there is a neutralizing effect where the fields/waves fight eachother, having cw and ccw works fine tho, and you get this type of result...
Don Smith Device Project Part 33: full watt bulb vs Smith stepdown comparison - YouTube

you can also switch the connections on L2 if not wanting to re-wind a coil
this + - + - if cw cw
this + - - + if cw ccw

when you are using the PVM500, the current draw on the built in amp-meter is telling you haow much amperage you are demanding/using/outputing from the driver.
So when i said i had it at 95 volts, the high resistance in the primary circuit DUE to resonance with primary circuit and driver, caused only 100ma to be needed/drawn/used.
BUT like i said, it was practically seized right up, so i used a lower harmonic of what it was tuned for, 26.5khz andset to 45 volts, using 250mA.
The current can then be further monitored BEFORE the driver, to see total driver AND circuit demand, i found the built in meter to be more accurate than my analog meter with 5 amp scale. Point is that the meter is accurate on the driver

So you see, offering 95 volts to any circuit, the resistance in the circuit will dictate how much current is permitted to flow at that 95 volts.

Resonance is a great thing, it is like an echo in a room, that is echoing in such a way that is perfect for the size of "room", and resists anything else coming into the room. The bouncing from wall-to-wall, is like the energy exchange in the coil and capacitor. At just the right freq (time), most of the energy used in the primary is solely being used to vibrate it. More or less freq than the tuned freq, will cause loss and spillage (dampening) out of this "room"

at 53khz there was so much resistance that it took away performance, so in my vid 33, i used 26.5khz, (a perfect octave down) & i had it set to 45volts and 250mA (.25) was the amp draw

[Itsu]

Caduceus or not

@ all,

i just uploaded a new video about replicating Woopy's kacher to DC-motor experiment.
This one goes about the used/need of caduceus coil as output coil.

I had already made a smith/caduceus coil months ago, see

JLN Labs - TEP Project - The SMITH Coil and
Smith coil

But there is also another flavour caduceus coil being discussed here:

http://www.stealthskater.com/Documents/Caduceus_03.pdf

So i compared both those flavours to my original used coil (2 turns with a flipover).

Allthough both coils are very different in size and number of turns, the outcome (output) is very close, so i don't think there is a MAJOR difference in using a normal coil, a Caduceus coil or any special caduceus coil in combination with a Kacher.

Anyway, the video is here: Replication of Woopy's Kacher to DC motor 3 Caduceus or not- YouTube

Regards Itsu

[AllPhase]

I bought all of the parts (including a Neon Sign Transformer) & tried to Make a Don Smith unit, but I could not get it to work.
I used bare copper wire & even tried several sizes & number of turns, but nothing. For a spark gap I used a automotive spark plug.

If anybody here has a working unit, please post some photos.

Thanks.

[mr.clean]

I bought all of the parts (including a Neon Sign Transformer) & tried to Make a Don Smith unit, but I could not get it to work.
I used bare copper wire & even tried several sizes & number of turns, but nothing. For a spark gap I used a automotive spark plug.

If anybody here has a working unit, please post some photos.

Thanks.

Maybe have a look thru the last few posts... A picture is a thousand words... A VIDEO is worth a thousand Pictures

[TheStone]

I bought all of the parts (including a Neon Sign Transformer) & tried to Make a Don Smith unit, but I could not get it to work.
I used bare copper wire & even tried several sizes & number of turns, but nothing. For a spark gap I used a automotive spark plug.

If anybody here has a working unit, please post some photos.

Thanks.

One thing we have to remember, as Patrick told me, some of the things in Don devices are there because people expect them to be there, but they may not be need it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qp1f...feature=relmfu

On thing I think we dont need is the Spark-Gap...

The Stone.

[clarence]

possible wrong parts!

I bought all of the parts (including a Neon Sign Transformer) & tried to Make a Don Smith unit, but I could not get it to work.
I used bare copper wire & even tried several sizes & number of turns, but nothing. For a spark gap I used a automotive spark plug.

If anybody here has a working unit, please post some photos.

Thanks.

Hello AllPhase &all
if you used a modern style neon power supply that has the internal ground fault built into its circuit - it will NOT work. almost all of the different brands nowdays have this user protection crap built into them to meet code requirements and this makes them useless for free energy device builders as a spark gap in the L1 circuit will make it trip instantly! also the voltage in them varies with the load so useless again! they are not the same type of neon sign transformer as Don Smith used in his devices. learned that the hard way and lost mucho time because of not being aware of that fact.

in the attached thumbnails you will find the information of a build that was completed sucessfuly by a builder named Alan at FreeEnergyInventions a good while back. I believe that web site was sold awhile back and has now changed hands. anyway you can take adavantage og his build specs and descriptions as I saved them back at that prior time. welcome and use them as they are very self explanatory. notice he also had to change to different type of driver as shown in his schematic. maybe Mr.Clean can tell you if his PVM will deliver 2500-4000v @ 10ma. anyway if there are any questins or info I might have feel free to holler! mike- onward!

[clarence]

added info to AllPhase

Hello Allphase & all again,

here is a couple of thumbnails I couldnt get in above - also a simple view of don unit I am in progress on. also the driver circuit I am using. one from patricks chapter #3- although one leg alternates low voltage to Gnd and the other one alternates the high voltage - ? -must be internal characteristics of the IRF9130 I guess. with it I am able to adjust to the reasonant frequecy of the transformers build (50 turns/ 1377 turns) 42.5khz. mike, onward!

[clarence]

I bought all of the parts (including a Neon Sign Transformer) & tried to Make a Don Smith unit, but I could not get it to work.
I used bare copper wire & even tried several sizes & number of turns, but nothing. For a spark gap I used a automotive spark plug.

If anybody here has a working unit, please post some photos.

Thanks.

Hello AlPhase again &all

below is a thumb nail of the type of spark gap I have used and found adequate to the job, it is simply a GDT (gas discharge tube) and can be had from digikey , mouser, allied electronics, etc. you can get them from 90v upwards to whatever working or breakover voltage you need. they will all run HOT so keep that in mind. you will see one like it in the attached thumbnail. it is towards the left end of the capacitors shown and was attached to the internal ground of the neon sign transformer (type they dont make anymore). by the way, the thumbnail is from the alan built type of device info I previously sent you. was just limited to # of images I could attach, so here it is now . mike, onward!

[TheStone]

Hello Allphase & all again,

here is a couple of thumbnails I couldnt get in above - also a simple view of don unit I am in progress on. also the driver circuit I am using. one from patricks chapter #3- although one leg alternates low voltage to Gnd and the other one alternates the high voltage - ? -must be internal characteristics of the IRF9130 I guess. with it I am able to adjust to the reasonant frequecy of the transformers build (50 turns/ 1377 turns) 42.5khz. mike, onward!

Nice work Clarence! and thanks for sharing with all.

The Stone.

PS.
In case anyone wants the PVM500 specs High Voltage, High Frequency Power Supplies

[Seeker2011]

Diode Question

I have a question for the electronics people. You have an IN4007 diode. It has a max reverse voltage of 1000V, a forward voltage drop of 1.1V and a recovery time of 30us. If you string 10 of these together in series, they are good for 10,000V. What does that do to the forward voltage drop and the recovery time?
TIA

[mr.clean]

Hello AllPhase &all
if you used a modern style neon power supply that has the internal ground fault built into its circuit - it will NOT work. almost all of the different brands nowdays have this user protection crap built into them to meet code requirements and this makes them useless for free energy device builders as a spark gap in the L1 circuit will make it trip instantly! also the voltage in them varies with the load so useless again! they are not the same type of neon sign transformer as Don Smith used in his devices. learned that the hard way and lost mucho time because of not being aware of that fact.

in the attached thumbnails you will find the information of a build that was completed sucessfuly by a builder named Alan at FreeEnergyInventions a good while back. I believe that web site was sold awhile back and has now changed hands. anyway you can take adavantage og his build specs and descriptions as I saved them back at that prior time. welcome and use them as they are very self explanatory. notice he also had to change to different type of driver as shown in his schematic. maybe Mr.Clean can tell you if his PVM will deliver 2500-4000v @ 10ma. anyway if there are any questins or info I might have feel free to holler! mike- onward!

That being said... i got it to work with a regular AC nst, its not too hard,
You just cant touch the HV ends together like Dons,
I could explain it but here is a vid of mine with it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FRB...hannel&list=UL

but yeah the PVM500 dominates all others ive tried, let me know if this vid helped, and make sure you let it load, or you miss the first BANG, even see if you can pause it on a discharge, theyre Big and like gunshots

ahh the vid doesnt show well, so

one of the HV from nst to a forward facing diode
the other HV to a back facing diode
parallel spark gap adjustable
from pos side to series tank cap
cap to series L1
L1 ending at the other spark gap side
L2 connections are the usual, go find out

now balance variac voltage, current draw, and spark distance with many hours of experiments, then post back with a vid

[TheStone]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FRB...hannel&list=UL

Mr Clean, do you have a link to buy this cap's they look the same as Don's one.

The Stone.

[Gedfire]

Thanks for Posting this

Hello AlPhase again &all

below is a thumb nail of the type of spark gap I have used and found adequate to the job, it is simply a GDT (gas discharge tube) and can be had from digikey , mouser, allied electronics, etc. you can get them from 90v upwards to wjust limited to # of images I could attach, so here it is now . mike, onward!

Thanks.Today I was just musing about Zilano saying air spark gap maybe be had at 250 volts.I wanted to use less than that and you have given a valuable link.Thanks man.

Ged

[clarence]

what type and brand ac NST you used

[QUOTE=mr.clean;201551]That being said... i got it to work with a regular AC nst, its not too hard,
You just cant touch the HV ends together like Dons,
I could explain it but here is a vid of mine with it...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FRB...hannel&list=UL

but yeah the PVM500 dominates all others ive tried, let me know if this vid helped, and make sure you let it load, or you miss the first BANG, even see if you can pause it on a discharge, theyre Big and like gunshots

ahh the vid doesnt show well, so

one of the HV from nst to a forward facing diode
the other HV to a back facing diode
parallel spark gap adjustable
from pos side to series tank cap
cap to series L1
L1 ending at the other spark gap side
L2 connections are the usual, go find out

now balance variac voltage, current draw, and spark distance with many hours of experiments, then post back with a vid [/QUOTE

Hello Mr Clean &all, appreciated your info and comments and the video. I would like to reference AllPhase on this forum to pull up that video because he is building basicaly the same build and he could use the same ac NST if he would apply it in the same manner as you show in the video. It is a very clean and precise video and he should be able also to draw some helpful bits from watching and stopping it at various points as he goes. I would like to try that same type of ac NST on my build also could you please describe it and its brand and possible part #? thanks in advance, mike. onward!