Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

Also beware that China Man speak bad English sometimes
he calls this a BUCK CONVERTER but I don't think so.

It looks like a simple circuit? But i don't know.

Chip number XL4016

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8A-DC4-40V-
To-DC2-36V-Buck-Power-Converter-200W-XL4016-
PWM-Volt-Step-Down-Moudle-/262159873990?hash=item3d09f237c6:g:FgkAAOS
wHQ9WVYQj




Description
Main parameters:

Product name: DC voltage converter
Conversion method: PWM
Input voltage: DC 4-40V
Output voltage: DC 1.25-36V
Max current: 8A
Max power: 200W
Conversion efficiency: 94%
Switch frequency: 180KHz
Appearance size: 61*41*27mm

Features:

This product uses XL4016 switch voltage conversion chip, and
realizes double rectification by collaborating with MBR10200.
Max input can reach 40V, continuously adjustable
for 1.25~36V output.

Max output current can reach 8A.
Need a fan.
Recommend no more than 5A for long-time work.
Support panel installation:
1. Drill a hole for 7mm on the panel.
2. Extend potentiometer handle.
3. Tighten the screw and cover the knob.

Package List:

1 x 200W XH-M401 DC-DC 4-40V To 1.25-36V Buck Module 8A XL4016E1 Voltage Converter

[BroMikey]

LTC3780 Constant voltage and current



http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-to-DC-
converter-Boost-buck-power-supply-Constant-voltage-
current-Regulators/351755769339?hash=item51e647
15fb:g:RRsAAOSwqv9V6Mrz




LTC3780 Constant voltage and current DC to DC converter 4-32V to 0.8-32V adjustable Automatic Step-up/step-down Boost/buck power supply Module Solar Wind Energy charging Vehicle Voltage Regulator led driver #1300201

Module parameters：

Module name: 8A Automatic Step-up/step-down Constant voltage and current module

Module Properties: non-isolated synchronous rectifier Automatic Step-up/step-down module

Input voltage: DC 4-32V

Input Current: 8A (MAX),Peak 10A(Long natural Radiating Working within 6A)

Quiescent Current: 5mA (working voltage not simultaneously be errors)

Output voltage: DC 0.8-32V continuously adjustable

Output Current: 8A (MAX) Peak 10A (<=6A long natural cooling inside)

Constant current output range:0.2-8A

Operating temperature: -40 to +85 ° C

Operating Frequency: 200KHz

Conversion efficiency: Up to 98% (Efficiency is related to Input
and output voltage, current, voltage difference)

Over current protection: yes

Short circuit protection: (input 10A fuse) Double circuit
protection, use more secure

Over-temperature protection: Yes (over-temperature
automatically reduces the output voltage)

input Reverse Polarity Protection: None, (if required in the input string into the diode)



Installation: 4pcs 3mm screws

Output preventanti-irrigation: None, when used for charging
coupled blocking diode, otherwise it will damage the module.

Wiring: none welding wire terminal output,
(IN as input, OUT is the output)

Module dimensions: length 60mm X width 51mm X height 20mm

PACKING INCLUDING:

1x power supply Module

[BroMikey]

For Your Info (FYI) This is what I found out about the scooter motor
commutator design for clamping the winding into it. I am afraid to
press it back down but I only raised each tab 2mm or less. Still
I might solder the wire on instead.

[BroMikey]

Boost Converter 10AMP 400Watts

It's gonna Bee Sweet. Sposta bee here in 2 weeks









Specification:

Input voltage : 6V-40V

Input Current: 15A(max)

Output voltage : 8V-80V(adjustable)

Output power:400W(max)

Output current: maximum output current of 10A ( adjustable )

Output power: the effective power P = input voltage V * 10A

Conversion efficiency: up to 95% ( input voltage, current;
output voltage and current impact of conversion efficiency )

Short circuit protection : Fuse

[BroMikey]

You wil have to let us know if it will work wired as Matt has shown us. Some of the better boost converters I have purchased will NOT run that way. I have purchased 8 different boost converters and two of them would not run the way Matt showed us to wire them. Unfortunately, they were the more efficient ones.

Dave

I sure will and I also remembered that when I bought it, I
would like a boost that is a tiny bigger than 100 watts so
I decided to take the chance. I can always buy more.

I used 20awg wire and uses 30 extra turns hoping to run
a tiny bit more power to charge my 2000 ah 12 battery set.

I would love to charge those big batteries off this small
Pulse Motor Tesla switch rewound Kool charger.
Tell Matt I appreciate all the hard work handed over on a
silver platter, I understand now that the motor switch
is an off shoot and people don't realize how hard it is to
duplicate the motor switch action with a circuit.

When I get it running I'll post my success story for all to see.

I don't know why I never picked this experiment up? I see it
so clear now but 2 years ago? I don't know.

Keep splitting the pos.... everytime you want to run a load
Humm... I am thinking about it. I am charging batteries.

I will do what I said first, run a light bulb on pure lectric current
and watch the battery burn down. Record time and joules.

A car light bulb as a load is a great way to start because a bulb
will stay at the same amp draw all the way down to 12V + 12V
=24v to stop at. Bulbs are nice to work with, you can measure
the current once or twice say at the end and the draw will be the
same.

I will use all three batteries in parallel to run my light till the three
12volt batteries reach 12v or maybe 11.5v something like this.

I don't need my magic switching motor to do that nor a converter
yet this must be done to give me an idea how many joules my
batteries under test can hold and how many joules is consume in
conventional (Burn them amps to the ground) operation.

With an idea how many joules I have in those three batteries
I will then connect all three batteries up to the light bulb as
suggested with a split pos....... arrangement.

That I can tell you will far surpass the previous connection.

I see all of the information, the diagrams, connection paths.

The part that is making my brain go cross-eyed is how a load
with a voltage drop doesn't cost anything in joules to run.

And I know the answer too. The answer is that instead of power
going to ground and burning up it is going to another battery to
charge it. My conventional horns are sticking out all
over.

$18

[wrtner]

Post 969 In the Basic Free Energy Device thread has a link to the pdf of building the motor as well as a link to the schematic of the boost converter.

... if you know what dropbox is and have an account:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...device-33.html

[BroMikey]

For beginners who have many questions look here
this video tells you about boost converters.

Longer wires or longer coils produce higher voltages.

Working in 105 degree temps is kicking my other end.
Extreme high temp advisory in effect now.

http://www.energeticforum.com/289423-post1072.html

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRG01YOEQGY[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI47ZSRxVro[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Okay I did my very first ever SPLIT THE POSITIVE runs
And I have to say "IT WORKS!!! Or I am loosing my
marbles?

Here is what happened. I couldn't wait any longer so I
pulled out some of my 2ah Lithium ION (Choice Batteries)
Batteries and this diagram shows you how I did it.

I ran the system 4 times and each time the current draw on
the modified household LED light bulb was always 400 mil-amp
at 3.15 volts.

These batteries are A-number one charged. All batteries started
at 3.85 well one was 3.90 volts. Now after running my load 4 times
for 10 minutes and the last time 15 minutes before switching I
am reading all batteries higher than the start so there must be
some kind of a mistake. I had to say that because it really
does seem to work. I'll keep doing it to see where I messed up.

I have this crazy feeling as I watch these batteries run this
light with no drop in battery capacity. Something is not right.

I am pretty tickled about it. Of course in the back of my mind
it can't work so I must of made a mistake right?This is to
easy. I don't want to start dancing to soon but it really look like
we have our foot in the door here.

I'll shake these meters to see if they are acting up. Nope no
rattle there.

I am liking this recirculated power. It is a regular LED bulb from
China with the aluminum heat sink and it lights the whole room
up. I didn't want to much pull on these little batteries so I only
enabled 4 LED's to match the power draw I was after.

PS I am back after letting batteries sit for 30 minutes
and a final 5th run trying to get these batteries to drop.
Battery Bank A = 7.87 v and Battery Bank B = 3.93 v

PS the is the second return, I see the loaded voltages now
changing first run 7.35 v and 4.05v now after 6 runs the
first bank loaded voltage is 7.25v so now miliamp draw
went down to 300 ma from the original 400 ma.draw.

So little by little the batteries are dropping slightly. I will hook
it direct now.

[BroMikey]

Last night I kind of jumped the gun so to speak getting
ahead of myself so here it is, the conventional curve (No Curve Yet)
that is needed to establish a norm with these batteries.

To maintain the 400ma draw I have installed a 1.5 ohm
resistor as shown. Let us see what these batteries can
do over a period of say an hour or two, then we will
split up the same three batteries to run off positive terminals
only.

Just like the regenx, everybody throws a coil on a magnet
wheel and speculates but what about the measurement during
transition? I mean some sort of establish norm must set the
precedent.



It was fun to watch the light run and battery charge the other way.

[BroMikey]

Calculations in Joules

Without a precedent of conventional operation this deduction
as to whether or not power is being recycled leaves us guessing.

If anyone has done this comparison and has it posted online
please let me see your results. The calculation is done with grade
school math using times tables to multiply volts X Amps per
second or Volts X Amps X seconds = JOULES

So many Joules per run. Each minute has 60 second so the value
of the number 60 is multiplied by your watts. This is watt/minutes

So if you are making a run like me at 400ma and 3.15volt for ten
minutes your calculation will look like this.

.400ma X 3.15volts X (TIME IN SECONDS)

Time in seconds for 10 minutes = 60 sec X 10 Min = 600 sec

So this means for my experiment

(.400ma X 3.15volt = 1.26watts) X 600 sec = 756 Joules

Now I can clearly see how many nuggets I ate up over
a 10 minute run time. Next looking at battery curves.

As a battery runs down it will hold steady at one place for
extended periods not moving many points on the scale then
all at once it will decline slightly more rapidly and next it will
decline very quickly over a short space and fail.

I will be back to show you my curve for these batteries.

(NOTATION)
To be fair conventional runs must be done the same as is required
with split positive runs. Split positive runs for my batteries need
changing around after 10-15 min. This constitutes a rest interval
however small say 2 minutes between runs, therefore each
conventional run should follow the same pattern.



For those of you who have never seriously considered all of the
efforts this man has made to show battery curves I suggest
you take advantage of it.

God Bless you JOHN B.

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ihOxdKiYmo[/VIDEO]

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYIhZvDDkaU[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Here are a few numbers crunched in for my Lithium ION
2ah batteries connected in parallel and conventional mode.

I have extended the chart. I will be updating this chart
every so many minutes as I collect data.

PS notice I have included the amp hour capacity of the
batteries at the C20 rate with calculation. Look at the diagram.

Later we will need to recalculate what a split positive C20
rate would come to to be fair. In the split positive arrangement
only 2000mah are considered. A C20 rate for a 2000mah battery
comes to a load of 100ma so I would have to run a split positive
system 3 times as long to collect data.

[BroMikey]

See the previous chart

This chart is bigger so the curve may be seen with
greater ease. 270 minutes into the C5 discharge for
Lithium ION batteries.

The graph has been expanded with a 1 volt area of 3 to 4 volts.
Also notice the ever dropping current from over 400ma on
start up until now at less than 300ma the run in progress.

[BroMikey]

Joule Count for Chart above

As an average over all mili-amp draw from 405ma starting
down to 300ma ending a figure of 350ma is found. Yet each
segment might be calculated separately each having a specific
number of joules and then add them all together.

Each time frame for a given ma draw varies.

Segment Number

(1) 3.90v-3.76v= average =3.83volts X .405 X (sec 900)
Joules = 1396 j

(2) 3.74v X .400 X 1800sec = 2693 Joules

(3) 3.70v X .380 X 2700sec = 3796 Joules

(4) 3.67v X .375 X 1800sec = 2477 Joules

(5) 3.64v X .360 X 1800sec = 2359 Joules

(6) 3.60v X .340 X 1800sec = 2203 Joules

(7) 3.56v X .325 X 1800sec = 2083 Joules

(8) 3.52v X .305 X 1800sec = 1932 Joules

(9) 3.49v X .300 X 1800sec = 1885 Joules

10) 3.44v X .280 X 1800sec = 1734 Joules

11) 3.33v X .300 X 1800sec = 1798 Joules


Total Number of Joules? Nuggets I call them = 22,960 J
There is no grey area/kind-a-sorta happy horsezhit this
is the number. I will be letting you know. All testing is
carried out to the second.

[BroMikey]

These Lithium ION batteries have been charging for an
hour now after reconfiguring them into a series string. I use
the C5 charge rate, just as I use the C5 discharge rate
please make a note of it.

Battery voltage must reach 12.6v in the 3 battery series
line up with each of the three batteries needing to top
out at 4.2v.

I bought some impulse relays and am brainstorming a possible
switching madness to keep me from changing batteries every
30 minute for quite probably days to finish the counter part
test to finalize this comparison run.

If you have an easy circuit to switch batteries please post
here ASAP.

[BroMikey]

Split Positive First Run Under Way.

This is where I will stop till the next day as I have no switch gear.
For those of you who have not switched batteries
every 30 minutes may be over charging the charging
battery, and burning up energy as witnessed by no increase
in charge voltage when the max charge is reached.

This is unacceptable therefore batteries MUST be rotated
before energy is thrown away.

In the last 2 hours of this first split positive run 2 batteries set
at 3.85v and the charge battery at 3.96v

The amp draw is closely watched and averaged, the start
voltages shown are measure after 30 seconds. Each start up
run for 30 minutes is preceded by a 2 minute rest during that
time batteries are changed around.

I am anxious to continue

PS it is day two and I have updated this chart (See Joule Count)

We have almost hit the halfway mark for joule counting after 3.5hrs

The chart is being updated every so many minutes please
stay tuned. It's looking pretty good. I wasted joules I won,t
count, not to many. Gotta be sure watt's up with this experiment.
I see everyone's post, thank you.



SECOND ENTRY DAY TWO

It looks like it's going to be on into the night before I reach
the 22,000 joules but I can tell you this, the batteries all get a rest
and some charging are along the way. I like the way that the
battery has time to recover when being charged. To give you
an idea of what I mean battery C or the charge battery
always stays at 3.95v at 200ma being fed into it.

At 300 minutes into this run

Battery A = 3.65v
Battery B = 3.45v
Battery C = 3.95v

This is the voltage while the circuit is running and circulating
200ma thru my LED light bulb. To keep a C20 rate I should be
down to 125ma, instead am going with a C10 rate. Using a
C10 rate will cost me joules as compared to the C20 rate
yet these Lithium ion batteries are made to handle that.

These experiments are more than meets the eye and very
little information in video form or otherwise is available on
the subject.

No one who has the time has taken a systematic approach
showing video footage of how energy can be recirculated.


Third entry: New graph below, I am running out of space.
See 2nd plot below.