Splitting The Positive

[jettis]

Hi Dave,

Was that you vid?

If you place the bulb between the negatives, the current still moves in the same direction. You could almost call it splitting the negative but it doesn't change anything. There are variations of different circuits that use the differential between the negatives but is not identical to this 3 battery method - I'll share one at the conference, which is based on an obscure patent that nobody seems to know about.

Yeah Aaron that is my video... It is an older vid. Good to hear your going to share more of your work.

Dave Wing

[jettis]

Do NOT run loads between the negatives. In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your batteries.

I read that explanation from Matt... I have not seen that myself, but I do not discount what Matt says either.

Dave Wing

[BroMikey]

Do NOT run loads between the negatives.
In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has
explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your
batteries.

Okay yes I agree that I need to do the basic tests first and
now knowing that running a split negative will ruin batteries
I am glad of that.

I have some beauties that are 55 ah Deep Cycle I would
rather hang onto.

I looked thru 100's of pages and 100's of posts and I still
have not found a wiring diagram but what I do remember
was some text just a few lines telling how to wind in which
direction, that I remember, finding? That might be hard to do.

I have been reworking my SSSG osc and the fast diodes have
improved the efficiency even more so it looks like the Bedini
Oscillator builds are going to pay off in more ways than one.

[BroMikey]

Okay I watched Matt's video's on motor windings again
I must be getting old and forgetful the video's were
there since last year and I watched some of it then
but not all till now.

Here is a rough draft of what I think he said.

Basically he made a 2 pole motor I think by putting
3 coils as one pole then another set 180 degrees opposite
each other.

The starting coil in the center is 40 turns CW direction
looking down onto the I post.

Next bigger coil is same direction 30 turns

Next bigger coil same direction 30 turns for a total
of 100 turns.

Follow his video's for better overall clarity such as
the balancing or using epoxy to hold windings
tightly.

[BroMikey]

Which wiring diagram are you unable to find.... the one for the motor modification or the one for the boost module circuit?

There you are. Both but I think I have the motor.

The boost I could guess.

[BroMikey]

Post 969 In the Basic Free Energy Device thread has a link to the pdf of building the motor as well as a link to the schematic of the boost converter.

Gotcha Great Video big gains.

I redid my drawing. I remembered somewhere the motor cannot be
loaded down and that it functions primarily as would a pulse
circuit? In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating
shaft is a nominal loss?

Is this correct? Or can the motor turn a generator if it is
really really small? I know you guys are getting sick of repeats
but eventually once we get past the emotional trauma of
personality conflicts the facts will go down much better.

[pmazz850]

[QUOTE=BroMikey;289200][SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

Is this correct?

BroMikey,
If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives!

[BroMikey]

[QUOTE=pmazz850;289207]

[SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

Is this correct?

BroMikey,
If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives!

Thanks MAN keep me on track.

OMG I am grinding off the old winding, does that stuff
stink to high heaven.

That stuff is the worst.

[BroMikey]

It's comin round. The video's Matt posted saved me a
bunch of rewinding cause of the bearing and housing
may have touched so you need to leave the winding
a little slack so you can push it around flat.

If you wrap it to tight right down by the bearing and try
to pry it up later it might break the wires but mine came out
right in the first shot.

My motor was brand new and was somehow shorted out
smoking the windings. It is the same as my old 24v motor
cage but was wrapped with very very fine wire to run at
36vdc.

I had a big roll of 20awg and seeins how I had so much
extra room inside this cage and my wire bein so much thicker
I went to

50 turns first coil

40 turns middle coil

40 turns outside coil.

It's a bit bigger motor maybe by a few millimeters.

I used a die grinder wheel in an electric grinder like
Matt used to chop off the side opposite the commutator
and used a pin to tap the windings out.

Don't forget to clip your wires on the commutator.

Plenty of room on this one to clear the wire.

It took me a grand total of less than an hour so far to
cut off the old windings and rewind.

Gonna probably use my jewelers torch to silfos maybe we will
see what I think as far as getting the wires connected to the
commutator.

Gotsta git me some apoxy but eyes workin on it. I lived in Sc
7 years and all my old slang is coming back to me.

Texas was alot of fun too. Nevada, CA. FL

It's all the same thing, plenty of good folks everywhere.

.

[BroMikey]

Motor Winding Coatings

I would like to share an experiment with resin hardeners I did
30 years ago. It saved me and still does money. It seems like
every time I turn around I am needing more resins to be hardened
to perform a given task.

I couldn't find the same picture of my can but as soon as I start
snapping shots I will show you what it looks like exactly. It is a quart
can just like this one that is sold at car paint counters for super
high prices but if you know what to ask for you can get the one I
always buy for around $15-$20 per quart at Sherwin Williams.

Ask for High Solids Polyurethane hardener B60V30 the B in the
number sequence stand for PART B. They will also sell you
a one gallon can of paint to go with that of polyurethane (Part A)
for about $200, just say "NO THANK YOU" it is a game the
chemists play getting you to buy the same thing for far more.

Now you have it all in your hand, this stuff at 10 percent
to 20 percent will harden up any cheap resins of POLYURETHANE
clear coat. After about 2-3 hours it turns to a gel so you have
that much time to let it set up as it gets thicker and thicker.

I like slow, slow is the best quality for bout anything you are doing
whether filling, clear coatings or adding white tint to paint it is tough
and long lasting.

I bought a 1 gal. can of the clear poly on sale for $20 today and I
have had the hardener for a few years. I bought the hardener from
many Sherwin stores.

It takes 16 hours to get hard and after 2-3 days it turns to a glass
hard material. You will not be able to get your thumb nail into the
surface, it is that hard.

It really is toxic stuff so ventilate well if you want to live. After a few
hours the odor dissipates but that initial set time gives off the smell
of model airplane glue that will knock your sockets off.

The thing I like about it is it takes a long long long time to set
completely and while I work I like to put it on runny getting
super penetration into the smallest areas, then 30 minutes
later another coat from the same mix and after an hour
til you can spread it like peanut butter filling huge openings
if need be.

It is a metal can quart size similar to this one only these
guys removed the label and sell the same stuff for $100.
Because you don't know what to ask for the consultants
hold the knowledge over your head, telling you of course
that it may not work and so forth. Ignore them.

Look for the number B60V30 below and now you can harden
up commonly available Poly resins found at your near by hardware.

I have used many epoxies and fiberglass resins that went into
an exothermic heated reaction that went to fast or even stuff
that peals off like garbage, not this stuff. Even the thinnest
amount walked on for years will not peal, this speaks about
adhesion.

I have covered floors and cars with this stuff or bikes or anything
that I wanted to come out like powder coat and it is indestructible
like stuff for out door decks.

I have used it at temps over 400 degrees and it doesn't blink.

Use a breathing mask with pumped in air from the outside like I do,
for jobs inside when coating takes to long or your lungs will be
stuck to your brain. It is that bad.

Be careful and you will be glad.

[BroMikey]

For those of you dangerous enough to build your own
555 timer based BOOST CONVERTER look at these
engineers.

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/152432/555-timer-boost-converter-doesnt-meet-spec

[BroMikey]

Boost converters or boost regulators?









op amp - Is it possible to construct a voltage doubler that both powers an opamp and is driven by it? - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange





Constant current regulation with boost converter, PWM and 555 timer. | Electronics Forums

[BroMikey]

The windings can still be clamped into a vice to gently flatten
them as the resins harden.plenty of room to clear the windings.
To flatten windings put a block of soft wood such as pine on each
side and apply pressure. Or just strike the boards with a heavy
hammer against the table and check progress with each tap.

I don't show it here in the picture but I did have plastic spacers
thru the rotor housing keeping the winding away from the bearings.

[BroMikey]

Potential Difference charging.

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjkq6W7VXkc[/VIDEO]

[BroMikey]

Here is a converter that operates from 3.5v up on the input
but I have no idea if it shares a common ground. This might
be cheap enough for someome to use only as a small test.
Or maybe these people already have a bigger one. I use one
to step up voltages now but the one I have it only 1 sq inch.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/6A-100W-DC-Converters-Power-
Regulated-3-5V-30V-5V-12V-Voltage-Step-Up-led-Volt-R-/190898609868?hash=item2c72719ecc:g:jHgAAMXQ0pNRvDL c



Features :
Dimensions: 67x42x18 mm (L*W*H)
Input voltage: DC 3.5V-30V
Output voltage: DC 3.5V-30V (boost,input voltage < or = output voltage)
Continuous current: 6A (long-term work)
Maximum input current: 10A (peak)
Output power: Max 100W, (U-in * I-in * Efficiency = U-out * I-out)
Voltmete display color: red
Voltmeter accuracy: ± (0.5% +1 digit)
Static power consumption: typically around 15ma
LED indicator:Have
Anti-reverse protection: Have
IN+: Positive input
IN-: Negative input
OUT+: Positive output
OUT-: Negative output