Splitting The Positive

[BroMikey]

This thread
will be different in that members can post multiple pictures or thoughts
and be welcome in doing so.

I have been trying to understand the SPLIT POSITIVE systems for
a time and will answer any or all questions to the best of my ability.

In this thread I go out of my way to share the foundation of each idea
that is experimented with including detailed graphs or data measurements
that show joule counts. Battery monitors are not an absolute when
you understand these simple joule calculations.

Calculations must be made and are a long, tedious effort that is part
of the reason posts can be lengthy. True research shows the beginning
or the basic idea and then thoroughly documents. Understand that
DOCUMENTS take huge amounts of time and posting that in the end
reveal the machines ability to perform.

The energy is there but just how much is found by data.

The bottom line is that this information is lacking in almost every thread
that makes the boast of "FREE ENERGY" mostly the idea an after that
each is on his own.

This is due to the loss of time involved to create comprehensive information
streams all done voluntarily, giving of one's time and money to further
any field.






Good work all. I made a tiny bit of progress toward the
balancing of my rotor. The idea Matt had to put more
wire on in the spots you need is a good one because
remember when the rotor spins up high RPM's that
your balancing material can fly off.

This rotor runs smooth and never rotates backward to find
the heavy side. All sides are equal. What it look like ain't
what it is. The sound of an imbalanced motor is short
lived.

This way i could epoxy these counter weight bands on
and did so. Everything will be hard tomorrow, I put the
coating on last night.




Here is the beginning of my research with "SPLIT POSITIVE PUMPED"
systems that will be complete with testing results such as the number
of joule spent and the number of joules collected.

Okay I finished the rotor and popped it all together, here
she is. I put tape on the motor shaft so you guys can see
the motor is running at the 1 amp value.

1 amp and 22.9v running on these batteries that are to small.
But it really kicked butt on battery "C" It drove
the charge battery up fast. I didn't have these batteries charged
all of the way up.

I put the system together on a big setup also, can't show you
all that right now but I will soon enough. On the larger system
the motor runs at 1.6 amps after start up. At start up the amp
draw is 2 amps then 1.75 amps with in 10 seconds.

All of this WITHOUT the booster. Coming soon.

Thanks to the guys who lead the way.








Hi guys I been sittin up partyin with my new setup. This is
so much fun, I am really tickled with this setup. After
running those lithium batteries all by their lonesome I just
don't know how to act with two energy pumps running at
the same time. This is so cool Matt thanks-a-million for the
special treat.

The meter fluctuates from the pulsing action is pretty cool, I
read 24.80volts and 25.90volts and back and forth on the run
series batteries. Same for the charge battery, it goes up and
down a little on the volt meter while running.
13.02v and then 14.75v wow what a ride.

Here is the deal guys. Put an amp meter across the ground
for tuning if you wish as shown then when you are sure on
what your voltages are going to be remove it. I didn't do this
on purpose, it was handy and I just stuck an amp meter in
the line like I always do and I saw right away when you adjust
the boost converter just right the meter goes in the opposite
direction, backwards.

Get rid of that stupid pot and put a 10 turn on it or buy this
one with a keypad.

I didn't want to ruin my analog amp meter so quick like a birdy
I lowered the voltage on the booster going back to the run
batteries in series. As you will see in the diagram it is a very fine
line. We are talkin just a few decimal points one way or the other
and your system is out of balance.

It was so fun to run I have been rejoicing and rehearsing what my
next test will be. I am still working on getting these batteries up to
snuff then I noticed that all of this pumping action was really good
for my batteries right on top of running power.

This is great, running power all aound, pumping and pumping where
the voltage stays stable and the balance is kept all the while my
batteries are being conditioned getting better and better.

What a terrific invention

I also have a few inverters staring me in the face and some UPS
boxes and who knows what over here.

This is really to much fun.

[BroMikey]

THE MODIFIED MOTOR AND UPS CIRCUIT.

I ran the little motor converted Energizer for a couple of days
along with the booster so I could maintain a balanced set
of batteries, pretty simple. No change in batteries after running
the motor two days after work. Each day I ran the unit 3-4hrs
til it stunk up the room with that God awful electrical smell.

It is getting better on the smell as I run it.

The batteries seem to stay the same and if you remember the
amp draw was around 1.75amps till I hooked up the booster to
recirculate power back to the series run batteries. Without the
booster returning power back I would need to switch the batteries
every couple of minutes or so being they are all fully charged.

With that in mind this is running now and it is very slowly discharging.
very very slowly. I think it moved .02 points in 2 hours. Not bad
for an 1100ma battery draw that is redistributed around the batteries
so I don't have to disconnect all of the time.

I have also added one 10,000uF capacitor across the series run
batteries thinking any switching energy from the booster might
equalized into the batteries.

Let me remind everyone who has not understood the FLOODED ALUM
battery setting voltage of 11.70volts. It means that John Bedini gets
an AAA+++ for his genius, Oops I better be careful about about
building up John or I'll have jealous insiders chiming in taking
shoots at me from here til Xmas. Come and get yours.

Anyway these ALUM batteries are the kitty cats Meow as they
say. These bad boys will literally hang at 12volt seemingly forever.

Now don't get me wrong these batteries need to charge all of the
way up JUST like a normal lead cell but it does take quite a few more
joules to get one of these babies up, but if you ever do you will
be in for your cake and eat it too, because these batteries are
HIGH DENSITY batteries now. Check out John Bedini's YOUTUBE
I think it is ENERGENX here it is.

https://www.youtube.com/user/Energenx/videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ihOxdKiYmo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYIhZvDDkaU

[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYIhZvDDkaU[/VIDEO]

Go to the cupboard pull out ALUM and add water and you are full rock
and roll. Well stay away from the aluminum.

Now instead of an acid battery that often will begin to much more
rapidly decline at about 11.70volts, you will have almost twice the
time because that battery will stay at 11.7 to 11.00 volts for the same
period of time the normal battery sticks at 12volts for hour and hours.

[BroMikey]

.................

Mikey

What is this winding?! What are you trying to do? What job is this motor supposed to do?

Midaz

Hey Hey Midaz Man

It is all explained very well in this thread let me know what you think.
I had to piece the information together over a several year period.

Little here and there and I finally got it. Matt Jones and Dave have
them running.




This thread
will be different in that members can post multiple pictures or thoughts
and be welcome in doing so.

I have been trying to understand the SPLIT POSITIVE systems for
a time and will answer any or all questions to the best of my ability.

In this thread I go out of my way to share the foundation of each idea
that is experimented with including detailed graphs or data measurements
that show joule counts. Battery monitors are not an absolute when
you understand these simple joule calculations.

Calculations must be made and are a long, tedious effort that is part
of the reason posts can be lengthy. True research shows the beginning
or the basic idea and then thoroughly documents. Understand that
DOCUMENTS take huge amounts of time and posting that in the end
reveal the machines ability to perform.

The energy is there but just how much is found by data.

The bottom line is that this information is lacking in almost every thread
that makes the boast of "FREE ENERGY" mostly the idea an after that
each is on his own.

This is due to the loss of time involved to create comprehensive information
streams all done voluntarily, giving of one's time and money to further
any field.






Good work all. I made a tiny bit of progress toward the
balancing of my rotor. The idea Matt had to put more
wire on in the spots you need is a good one because
remember when the rotor spins up high RPM's that
your balancing material can fly off.

This rotor runs smooth and never rotates backward to find
the heavy side. All sides are equal. What it look like ain't
what it is. The sound of an imbalanced motor is short
lived.

This way i could epoxy these counter weight bands on
and did so. Everything will be hard tomorrow, I put the
coating on last night.




Here is the beginning of my research with "SPLIT POSITIVE PUMPED"
systems that will be complete with testing results such as the number
of joule spent and the number of joules collected.

Okay I finished the rotor and popped it all together, here
she is. I put tape on the motor shaft so you guys can see
the motor is running at the 1 amp value.

1 amp and 22.9v running on these batteries that are to small.
But it really kicked butt on battery "C" It drove
the charge battery up fast. I didn't have these batteries charged
all of the way up.

I put the system together on a big setup also, can't show you
all that right now but I will soon enough. On the larger system
the motor runs at 1.6 amps after start up. At start up the amp
draw is 2 amps then 1.75 amps with in 10 seconds.

All of this WITHOUT the booster. Coming soon.

Thanks to the guys who lead the way.








Hi guys I been sittin up partyin with my new setup. This is
so much fun, I am really tickled with this setup. After
running those lithium batteries all by their lonesome I just
don't know how to act with two energy pumps running at
the same time. This is so cool Matt thanks-a-million for the
special treat.

The meter fluctuates from the pulsing action is pretty cool, I
read 24.80volts and 25.90volts and back and forth on the run
series batteries. Same for the charge battery, it goes up and
down a little on the volt meter while running.
13.02v and then 14.75v wow what a ride.

Here is the deal guys. Put an amp meter across the ground
for tuning if you wish as shown then when you are sure on
what your voltages are going to be remove it. I didn't do this
on purpose, it was handy and I just stuck an amp meter in
the line like I always do and I saw right away when you adjust
the boost converter just right the meter goes in the opposite
direction, backwards.

Get rid of that stupid pot and put a 10 turn on it or buy this
one with a keypad.

I didn't want to ruin my analog amp meter so quick like a birdy
I lowered the voltage on the booster going back to the run
batteries in series. As you will see in the diagram it is a very fine
line. We are talkin just a few decimal points one way or the other
and your system is out of balance.

It was so fun to run I have been rejoicing and rehearsing what my
next test will be. I am still working on getting these batteries up to
snuff then I noticed that all of this pumping action was really good
for my batteries right on top of running power.

This is great, running power all aound, pumping and pumping where
the voltage stays stable and the balance is kept all the while my
batteries are being conditioned getting better and better.

What a terrific invention

I also have a few inverters staring me in the face and some UPS
boxes and who knows what over here.

This is really to much fun.

[aweiaini]

i have test the motor again,and dont see any gain .
the motor's efficiency is about 50%-60% of the original motor,base on a 16 inch fan as a load .
three 12v batteries series and one 12v battery for charge,motor runs at 24v.
battery 1 2 is 38ah,battey 3 4 is 12ah.
before test i run the battery 0.7a for one hour ,obtain results: battery 1 2 discharge 0.04V and battery 3 4 discharge 0.12v.
the test date:
start voltage：bat1 12.50 bat2 12.48 bat3 12.28 bat4 12.68
run half hour ：bat1 12.48 bat2 12.46 bat3 12.23 bat4 12.77
conclusion：
motor consume： 0.7a×0.5h×50%×24v=12v×0.7a×0.5h
battery discharge：0.7a×0.5h×3×12v=12v×0.7a×1.5h
battery charge：0.09v/0.12v*0.7ah=0.75×0.7ah
COP=(0.5+0.75)/1.5=83%，or less。

the battery‘s voltage up and down at running，because the motor’s spike voltage，it‘s not a useful voltage，if you disconnect motor from the battery，the battery’s voltage will recover at once。if you connect a oscillograph on the battery‘s electrode you will see the truth。

[BroMikey]

Thank you aweiaini for your results. I am running a UPS at
1-2amp loads on big batteries. Also SPECIAL Matt motor.
Other motors do not give good results.

I am learning by running a UPS for now and later maybe I can
couple up a generator to the MODIFIED MOTOR then I will report
my results. Also I hooked my motor only one way, there are other
connection diagrams that I have not used. Dave ran his motor
very very fast with a converter. Ours does not do that. With our
connection the motor runs very slow. I think it is very important
to run the motor at a very high frequency using two run batteries
24.50volts of say 20ah then using a booster converter drive the
motor high end sending the power to a 500ah set of batteries.

According to Dave when done like THAT (See 11Turion Video) the
large back gains greatly. maybe 500X ? I'll have to go back to see
the numbers. Dave is no beginner, he knows his batteries and if Dave
says it will work I know it will.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7a4bPS4o8

Some questioned arise did Dave wait for his batteries to equalize and
are these voltages relevant when readings are taken sitting or were
the readings showing a strong battery under load? I don't know the
answer. Batteries have fooled me, I am trying.

The answer comes when you run power, I know that because resting
batteries all read the same from 35%-55% fully.


Here are the results for a 10hour run in the first diagram and the
second diagram is the the same with 2 lights. I am only getting
familiar with my bigger batteries and trying to establish a baseline.

I did run a single battery to the UPS voltage was 12.23v drop to
12.22v took 20minutes and 12.22v drop to 12.21v took 20 minutes.

[BroMikey]

I'm not saying that is wrong, as I have not tried it. I'm just saying that is NOT what I am doing in this video, and it is NOT the connection we have shared with everyone.

My best advice is. TRY the basic circuit. Become VERY familiar with getting it to balance and run a small load without discharging ANY of the batteries, and THEN go crazy with adding things and changing things.

Everyone wants to run before they can crawl, and then they blame the fact that they are falling on their face on us. Figuring out how to make this work with a really SMALL setup like this takes PATIENCE and TIME.


Dave

Okay I went back and reevaluated my beginner entries and now that
I am starting to see that the information has always been there and
that it was just ME who didn't see ot or understand what it meant.
all of my sassy comments seemed rather embarrassing to even me.

So I erased them. I feel like a tard.

Anyway I have always known that you were the Patient one, a
constant simple tone that never changes and I am seeing that my
gut was right.

Okay let me say that the information collection is almost nearly
impossible to grasp for the new guy and he is bound to lose control
becoming frustrated as to whether the answers are there or not.
I have to say that I can see how so many have come and gone but
I guess they were not willing to stay with it and from the way it feels
on my end were not willing to admit their ignorance.

So let's get it on. One thing I learned along time ago is that each
day sheds new light on the pathway and I become amazed on how
blind I could have been.

I heard what you said Dave, some of it for the first time and I want
you to know that i am humbled to be instructed by someone so gentle.
Wow. And then there is me and those who are like me who get
discouraged and lash out. You are right, this is human nature.

Thanks for staying with me til I get myself straight.

Okay having said all of that I am considering the hook up you mentioned
and I will let everyone know how it turned out. The one thing I do
know is that to get the benefit from this motor we must run that
baby up higher than I have it going. If I decide the converter failed or smoked, I'll buy the other one.

The way it stands now is that a pumped set of batteries is a little better
way of using energy but it all goes away over time and I have a low
battery. Right now I am trying to see how much better this works.

Apologies to all especially all who have been here so long and seen
so many making a big verbal mess never to admit their faults.

God Bless you all, MIKEY

[BroMikey]

The positive from the two batteries in series goes into the + INPUT
on the boost converter. The - INPUT on the boost converter connects
to NOTHING. Both the positive output and the negative output of
the boost converter are connected to the POSITIVE of the battery
you are trying to charge.

If you are trying to run a motor, it goes between the positive output
on the boost converter and the positive of battery you are trying
to charge.

Dave

Okay i am documenting your text in picture/diagram form.
If something needs to be added please let me know so I can
eventually give this a go.

Somewhere in the huge amount of text I read a figure of 14.75volts
but again I am not sure what that specific entry applies. I am sure the
diagrams on the "BASIC FREE ENERGY DEVICE" shows what I am
looking for somewhere so I'll hold my tongue.

Also my boost converter has independent grounds so if one
is not hooked up nothing works. This is probably because some
applications require this where the cheap-O does not have that
option. The option being that grounds on the converter can be
connected together (like the cheap-O already is) or grounds can
be separated and sent to different locations in the circuit.

My other diagrams show that grounds must be tied together to
operate regardless of the direction. In your application shown
here the boost converter is not being used to boost but rather
as a BUCK CONVERTER. So to a beginner this may be confusing.

I mean after all the advanced replicators are stating that the
converter is being used to increase or boost the voltage UP, when
in fact the 24vdc run series battery bank is being fed a higher
voltage than exits the converter.

So in this case the converter operates as a BUCK CONVERTER.
If I run 14.75vdc to my little motor she will run some amps so
I will do what I said I would do, run the charge to my 2000ah
battery bank in the basement.

The 160amp wires run to the upper floor in my experimental
room of this big old house. So as you know I have
enough battery of the charge side.

[BroMikey]

You are still showing the Positive out of the boost converter hooked to the Positive of the charge battery and the Negative out of the boost converter hooked to the Negative of the charge battery.

BOTH the Positive AND the Negative out of the boost converter should be connected to the Positive of the charge battery. And some boost converters WONT work connected this way.

Once again....NO connection from the output of the boost converter to the negative of the charge battery AT ALL.

Okay if I read you correctly like this?

[BroMikey]

Read the following carefully.
Use the drawing you JUST posted.
1. Erase the connection to the negative INPUT on the boost module.
2. Connect the Negative OUTPUT of the boost module to the Positive of the charge battery.
3. Leave everything else ALONE. If it DOESNT work, you CANT use that particular boost module.

Oh I see it now and why it escaped me. Like this?

If it doesn't work how will I know?

[aweiaini]

i cant see the vedio，because i'm in china，It is a matter to be regretted.

thank you.the motor is similar with bedini motor,all use spike voltage。what your said is right，the more speed ，the less loss，and more power you will get from collapsed magnetic field。
i will try 36v and 48v run motor later。

[BroMikey]

i cant see the vedio，because i'm in china，It is a matter to be regretted.

thank you.the motor is similar with bedini motor,all use spike voltage。what your said is right，the more speed ，the less loss，and more power you will get from collapsed magnetic field。
i will try 36v and 48v run motor later。

Regular motors do not work. Only this motor for good results.
Use an old scooter motor and rewind like this or forget it.

[Wistiti]

Regular motors do not work. Only this motor for good results.
Use an old scooter motor and rewind like this or forget it.

Thank you Bro for the drawing!

[BroMikey]

If the output across the terminals on the boost module is 14+ volts, the front side is working.
monitor the voltage across the primaries from time to time, and adjust your boost module voltage up a bit at a time until the voltage across the two primaries does NOT DROP. You should be at about 14.7 volts output on the boost module.

If you put a load on the motor, this will CHANGE.

It works and has been running like this for 30 minutes charging my
battery right up. The voltage swinging is crazy fun. I went from 12.25v

to 12.90v in 30 minutes.

Thanks a million guy. Here is the diagram i am running for this
booster so others can buy this one.

[BroMikey]

You can turn down the boost module so that battery 3 doesn't
charge as fast, but watch the primaries to make sure THEY don't
drop.

With careful adjustment, you can get that motor to run a significant
load. Once you can get your motor to the place where it can run
a load without draining the batteries,

Observations in a 45 minute run. Once the digital converter is set
to operate in buck mode going from 24vdc down to 14.75vdc the
modified Matt Motor (3M) increases in frequency/RPM.

Let me first start by saying that the run batteries were delivering
1400ma or were they? The voltage has not changed, however on
the charge side the battery has rested for 20-25 minutes settling
down to 12.54 vdc from a 13.02vdc charging voltage. The charge
battery has not moved in 5 minutes.

The meters are showing wild fluctuations on all digit devices like
the converter and the motor meter. This is a good pump.

To the passer by this doesn't mean anything but you must realize
that I know what these batteries will do. They will go down normally
no matter what I do to them, yet so far my gut is flipping over because
just one run looking mighty good. Almost to good to be true.

Do you know what this means? Of course you do, it means you can
put some parts on a table batteries, boxes and so on and never
need an outside source to charge them.

My batteries you call primaries (I call run series 24vdc batteries) were
at about 12.28v are almost exactly the same voltage after nearly an
hour run (it might have been 50min) while the charge battery went
right up. Yes I have a very good feeling about what I have just witnessed
first hand.

The excitement will follow, just watch.

[BroMikey]

Thanks Dave, I can see you are way out in front of me. I have to agree
with what you said and I have thought this and forgotten this difference
again. It is going to take time for me to get this down into my thinking.

I keep reverting back to high voltage low volt boost/buck ignoring the
POTENTIAL DIFFERENCE portion of the circuits main function.

Thanks for keeping me on track, I make a certain sound that seems
to always parrot the conventional only. I will break the trend.

I decided to rotate batteries and the run is higher already and the
charge battery once again is charging that started at 12.25v and
in one hour has moved up to 12.50vdc while the run use to be 24.28v
is now 25.02v or right around that figure. I love the way the meters
average fluctuating voltages and in this case as high as 27.00v
down to 24.40v. I did start out at 25.02vdc.

I am sure it is all rising. My motor resins are stinking again, only
far less than at start up but it is disgusting. I am going for the
room spray.

Also I told you all my batteries were not up to snuff and one battery
has been charging on this system for 3 hours and won't climb past
12.65vd so I have other problems in this run. The run batteries use
very little if any it seems.