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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Here is a converter that operates from 3.5v up on the input
    but I have no idea if it shares a common ground. This might
    be cheap enough for someome to use only as a small test.
    Or maybe these people already have a bigger one. I use one
    to step up voltages now but the one I have it only 1 sq inch.



    http://www.ebay.com/itm/6A-100W-DC-Converters-Power-
    Regulated-3-5V-30V-5V-12V-Voltage-Step-Up-led-Volt-R-/190898609868?hash=item2c72719ecc:g:jHgAAMXQ0pNRvDL c




    Features :
    Dimensions: 67x42x18 mm (L*W*H)
    Input voltage: DC 3.5V-30V
    Output voltage: DC 3.5V-30V (boost,input voltage < or = output voltage)
    Continuous current: 6A (long-term work)
    Maximum input current: 10A (peak)
    Output power: Max 100W, (U-in * I-in * Efficiency = U-out * I-out)
    Voltmete display color: red
    Voltmeter accuracy: (0.5% +1 digit)
    Static power consumption: typically around 15ma
    LED indicator:Have
    Anti-reverse protection: Have
    IN+: Positive input
    IN-: Negative input
    OUT+: Positive output
    OUT-: Negative output

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Potential Difference charging.

    [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjkq6W7VXkc[/VIDEO]

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied


    The windings can still be clamped into a vice to gently flatten
    them as the resins harden.plenty of room to clear the windings.
    To flatten windings put a block of soft wood such as pine on each
    side and apply pressure. Or just strike the boards with a heavy
    hammer against the table and check progress with each tap.

    I don't show it here in the picture but I did have plastic spacers
    thru the rotor housing keeping the winding away from the bearings.














    Last edited by BroMikey; 06-11-2016, 03:28 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Boost converters or boost regulators?









    op amp - Is it possible to construct a voltage doubler that both powers an opamp and is driven by it? - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange





    Constant current regulation with boost converter, PWM and 555 timer. | Electronics Forums

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    For those of you dangerous enough to build your own
    555 timer based BOOST CONVERTER look at these
    engineers.


    http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/152432/555-timer-boost-converter-doesnt-meet-spec



    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Motor Winding Coatings

    I would like to share an experiment with resin hardeners I did
    30 years ago. It saved me and still does money. It seems like
    every time I turn around I am needing more resins to be hardened
    to perform a given task.

    I couldn't find the same picture of my can but as soon as I start
    snapping shots I will show you what it looks like exactly. It is a quart
    can just like this one that is sold at car paint counters for super
    high prices but if you know what to ask for you can get the one I
    always buy for around $15-$20 per quart at Sherwin Williams.

    Ask for High Solids Polyurethane hardener B60V30 the B in the
    number sequence stand for PART B. They will also sell you
    a one gallon can of paint to go with that of polyurethane (Part A)
    for about $200, just say "NO THANK YOU" it is a game the
    chemists play getting you to buy the same thing for far more.

    Now you have it all in your hand, this stuff at 10 percent
    to 20 percent will harden up any cheap resins of POLYURETHANE
    clear coat. After about 2-3 hours it turns to a gel so you have
    that much time to let it set up as it gets thicker and thicker.

    I like slow, slow is the best quality for bout anything you are doing
    whether filling, clear coatings or adding white tint to paint it is tough
    and long lasting.

    I bought a 1 gal. can of the clear poly on sale for $20 today and I
    have had the hardener for a few years. I bought the hardener from
    many Sherwin stores.

    It takes 16 hours to get hard and after 2-3 days it turns to a glass
    hard material. You will not be able to get your thumb nail into the
    surface, it is that hard.

    It really is toxic stuff so ventilate well if you want to live. After a few
    hours the odor dissipates but that initial set time gives off the smell
    of model airplane glue that will knock your sockets off.

    The thing I like about it is it takes a long long long time to set
    completely and while I work I like to put it on runny getting
    super penetration into the smallest areas, then 30 minutes
    later another coat from the same mix and after an hour
    til you can spread it like peanut butter filling huge openings
    if need be.

    It is a metal can quart size similar to this one only these
    guys removed the label and sell the same stuff for $100.
    Because you don't know what to ask for the consultants
    hold the knowledge over your head, telling you of course
    that it may not work and so forth. Ignore them.

    Look for the number B60V30 below and now you can harden
    up commonly available Poly resins found at your near by hardware.

    I have used many epoxies and fiberglass resins that went into
    an exothermic heated reaction that went to fast or even stuff
    that peals off like garbage, not this stuff. Even the thinnest
    amount walked on for years will not peal, this speaks about
    adhesion.

    I have covered floors and cars with this stuff or bikes or anything
    that I wanted to come out like powder coat and it is indestructible
    like stuff for out door decks.

    I have used it at temps over 400 degrees and it doesn't blink.

    Use a breathing mask with pumped in air from the outside like I do,
    for jobs inside when coating takes to long or your lungs will be
    stuck to your brain. It is that bad.

    Be careful and you will be glad.






    Last edited by BroMikey; 06-10-2016, 08:08 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied

    It's comin round. The video's Matt posted saved me a
    bunch of rewinding cause of the bearing and housing
    may have touched so you need to leave the winding
    a little slack so you can push it around flat.

    If you wrap it to tight right down by the bearing and try
    to pry it up later it might break the wires but mine came out
    right in the first shot.

    My motor was brand new and was somehow shorted out
    smoking the windings. It is the same as my old 24v motor
    cage but was wrapped with very very fine wire to run at
    36vdc.

    I had a big roll of 20awg and seeins how I had so much
    extra room inside this cage and my wire bein so much thicker
    I went to

    50 turns first coil

    40 turns middle coil

    40 turns outside coil.

    It's a bit bigger motor maybe by a few millimeters.

    I used a die grinder wheel in an electric grinder like
    Matt used to chop off the side opposite the commutator
    and used a pin to tap the windings out.

    Don't forget to clip your wires on the commutator.

    Plenty of room on this one to clear the wire.

    It took me a grand total of less than an hour so far to
    cut off the old windings and rewind.

    Gonna probably use my jewelers torch to silfos maybe we will
    see what I think as far as getting the wires connected to the
    commutator.

    Gotsta git me some apoxy but eyes workin on it. I lived in Sc
    7 years and all my old slang is coming back to me.

    Texas was alot of fun too. Nevada, CA. FL

    It's all the same thing, plenty of good folks everywhere.

    .



















    Last edited by BroMikey; 06-08-2016, 09:25 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    [QUOTE=pmazz850;289207]
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
    [SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

    In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

    Is this correct?

    BroMikey,
    If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives!
    Thanks MAN keep me on track.

    OMG I am grinding off the old winding, does that stuff
    stink to high heaven.

    That stuff is the worst.

    Leave a comment:


  • pmazz850
    replied
    [QUOTE=BroMikey;289200][SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

    In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

    Is this correct?

    BroMikey,
    If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives!

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    Post 969 In the Basic Free Energy Device thread has a link to the pdf of building the motor as well as a link to the schematic of the boost converter.
    Gotcha Great Video big gains.

    I redid my drawing. I remembered somewhere the motor cannot be
    loaded down and that it functions primarily as would a pulse
    circuit? In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating
    shaft is a nominal loss?

    Is this correct? Or can the motor turn a generator if it is
    really really small? I know you guys are getting sick of repeats
    but eventually once we get past the emotional trauma of
    personality conflicts the facts will go down much better
    .

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    Which wiring diagram are you unable to find.... the one for the motor modification or the one for the boost module circuit?
    There you are. Both but I think I have the motor.

    The boost I could guess.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Okay I watched Matt's video's on motor windings again
    I must be getting old and forgetful the video's were
    there since last year and I watched some of it then
    but not all till now.

    Here is a rough draft of what I think he said.

    Basically he made a 2 pole motor I think by putting
    3 coils as one pole then another set 180 degrees opposite
    each other.

    The starting coil in the center is 40 turns CW direction
    looking down onto the I post.

    Next bigger coil is same direction 30 turns

    Next bigger coil same direction 30 turns for a total
    of 100 turns.

    Follow his video's for better overall clarity such as
    the balancing or using epoxy to hold windings
    tightly
    .

    Last edited by BroMikey; 06-08-2016, 12:13 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    Do NOT run loads between the negatives.
    In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has
    explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your
    batteries.
    Okay yes I agree that I need to do the basic tests first and
    now knowing that running a split negative will ruin batteries
    I am glad of that.

    I have some beauties that are 55 ah Deep Cycle I would
    rather hang onto.

    I looked thru 100's of pages and 100's of posts and I still
    have not found a wiring diagram but what I do remember
    was some text just a few lines telling how to wind in which
    direction, that I remember, finding? That might be hard to do.

    I have been reworking my SSSG osc and the fast diodes have
    improved the efficiency even more so it looks like the Bedini
    Oscillator builds are going to pay off in more ways than one.

    Leave a comment:


  • jettis
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    Do NOT run loads between the negatives. In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your batteries.

    I read that explanation from Matt... I have not seen that myself, but I do not discount what Matt says either.

    Dave Wing

    Leave a comment:


  • jettis
    replied
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Was that you vid?

    If you place the bulb between the negatives, the current still moves in the same direction. You could almost call it splitting the negative but it doesn't change anything. There are variations of different circuits that use the differential between the negatives but is not identical to this 3 battery method - I'll share one at the conference, which is based on an obscure patent that nobody seems to know about.
    Yeah Aaron that is my video... It is an older vid. Good to hear your going to share more of your work.

    Dave Wing

    Leave a comment:

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