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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Thanks Dave, I can see you are way out in front of me. I have to agree
    with what you said and I have thought this and forgotten this difference
    again. It is going to take time for me to get this down into my thinking.

    I keep reverting back to high voltage low volt boost/buck ignoring the
    POTENTIAL DIFFERENCE portion of the circuits main function.

    Thanks for keeping me on track, I make a certain sound that seems
    to always parrot the conventional only. I will break the trend.

    I decided to rotate batteries and the run is higher already and the
    charge battery once again is charging that started at 12.25v and
    in one hour has moved up to 12.50vdc while the run use to be 24.28v
    is now 25.02v or right around that figure. I love the way the meters
    average fluctuating voltages and in this case as high as 27.00v
    down to 24.40v. I did start out at 25.02vdc.

    I am sure it is all rising. My motor resins are stinking again, only
    far less than at start up but it is disgusting. I am going for the
    room spray.

    Also I told you all my batteries were not up to snuff and one battery
    has been charging on this system for 3 hours and won't climb past
    12.65vd so I have other problems in this run. The run batteries use
    very little if any it seems.

    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-10-2016, 08:03 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion

    You can turn down the boost module so that battery 3 doesn't
    charge as fast, but watch the primaries to make sure THEY don't
    drop.

    With careful adjustment, you can get that motor to run a significant
    load. Once you can get your motor to the place where it can run
    a load without draining the batteries,

    Observations in a 45 minute run. Once the digital converter is set
    to operate in buck mode going from 24vdc down to 14.75vdc the
    modified Matt Motor (3M) increases in frequency/RPM.

    Let me first start by saying that the run batteries were delivering
    1400ma or were they? The voltage has not changed, however on
    the charge side the battery has rested for 20-25 minutes settling
    down to 12.54 vdc from a 13.02vdc charging voltage. The charge
    battery has not moved in 5 minutes.

    The meters are showing wild fluctuations on all digit devices like
    the converter and the motor meter. This is a good pump.

    To the passer by this doesn't mean anything but you must realize
    that I know what these batteries will do. They will go down normally
    no matter what I do to them, yet so far my gut is flipping over because
    just one run looking mighty good. Almost to good to be true.

    Do you know what this means? Of course you do, it means you can
    put some parts on a table batteries, boxes and so on and never
    need an outside source to charge them.

    My batteries you call primaries (I call run series 24vdc batteries) were
    at about 12.28v are almost exactly the same voltage after nearly an
    hour run (it might have been 50min) while the charge battery went
    right up. Yes I have a very good feeling about what I have just witnessed
    first hand.

    The excitement will follow, just watch.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-10-2016, 05:34 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    If the output across the terminals on the boost module is 14+ volts, the front side is working.
    monitor the voltage across the primaries from time to time, and adjust your boost module voltage up a bit at a time until the voltage across the two primaries does NOT DROP. You should be at about 14.7 volts output on the boost module.

    If you put a load on the motor, this will CHANGE.
    It works and has been running like this for 30 minutes charging my
    battery right up. The voltage swinging is crazy fun. I went from 12.25v

    to 12.90v in 30 minutes.

    Thanks a million guy. Here is the diagram i am running for this
    booster so others can buy this one.


    Leave a comment:


  • Wistiti
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post

    Regular motors do not work. Only this motor for good results.
    Use an old scooter motor and rewind like this or forget it.




    Thank you Bro for the drawing!

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by aweiaini View Post
    i cant see the vedio,because i'm in china,It is a matter to be regretted.

    thank you.the motor is similar with bedini motor,all use spike voltage。what your said is right,the more speed ,the less loss,and more power you will get from collapsed magnetic field。
    i will try 36v and 48v run motor later。

    Regular motors do not work. Only this motor for good results.
    Use an old scooter motor and rewind like this or forget it.




    Leave a comment:


  • aweiaini
    replied
    i cant see the vedio,because i'm in china,It is a matter to be regretted.

    thank you.the motor is similar with bedini motor,all use spike voltage。what your said is right,the more speed ,the less loss,and more power you will get from collapsed magnetic field。
    i will try 36v and 48v run motor later。

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    Read the following carefully.
    Use the drawing you JUST posted.
    1. Erase the connection to the negative INPUT on the boost module.
    2. Connect the Negative OUTPUT of the boost module to the Positive of the charge battery.
    3. Leave everything else ALONE. If it DOESNT work, you CANT use that particular boost module.
    Oh I see it now and why it escaped me. Like this?

    If it doesn't work how will I know?

    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-10-2016, 02:53 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion
    You are still showing the Positive out of the boost converter hooked to the Positive of the charge battery and the Negative out of the boost converter hooked to the Negative of the charge battery.

    BOTH the Positive AND the Negative out of the boost converter should be connected to the Positive of the charge battery. And some boost converters WONT work connected this way.

    Once again....NO connection from the output of the boost converter to the negative of the charge battery AT ALL.
    Okay if I read you correctly like this?

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion

    The positive from the two batteries in series goes into the + INPUT
    on the boost converter. The - INPUT on the boost converter connects
    to NOTHING. Both the positive output and the negative output of
    the boost converter are connected to the POSITIVE of the battery
    you are trying to charge.

    If you are trying to run a motor, it goes between the positive output
    on the boost converter and the positive of battery you are trying
    to charge.


    Dave
    Okay i am documenting your text in picture/diagram form.
    If something needs to be added please let me know so I can
    eventually give this a go.

    Somewhere in the huge amount of text I read a figure of 14.75volts
    but again I am not sure what that specific entry applies. I am sure the
    diagrams on the "BASIC FREE ENERGY DEVICE" shows what I am
    looking for somewhere so I'll hold my tongue.

    Also my boost converter has independent grounds so if one
    is not hooked up nothing works. This is probably because some
    applications require this where the cheap-O does not have that
    option. The option being that grounds on the converter can be
    connected together (like the cheap-O already is) or grounds can
    be separated and sent to different locations in the circuit.

    My other diagrams show that grounds must be tied together to
    operate regardless of the direction. In your application shown
    here the boost converter is not being used to boost but rather
    as a BUCK CONVERTER. So to a beginner this may be confusing.

    I mean after all the advanced replicators are stating that the
    converter is being used to increase or boost the voltage UP, when
    in fact the 24vdc run series battery bank is being fed a higher
    voltage than exits the converter.

    So in this case the converter operates as a BUCK CONVERTER.
    If I run 14.75vdc to my little motor she will run some amps so
    I will do what I said I would do, run the charge to my 2000ah
    battery bank in the basement.

    The 160amp wires run to the upper floor in my experimental
    room of this big old house. So as you know I have
    enough battery of the charge side.



    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-09-2016, 11:39 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by Turion

    I'm not saying that is wrong, as I have not tried it. I'm just saying that is NOT what I am doing in this video, and it is NOT the connection we have shared with everyone.

    My best advice is. TRY the basic circuit. Become VERY familiar with getting it to balance and run a small load without discharging ANY of the batteries, and THEN go crazy with adding things and changing things.

    Everyone wants to run before they can crawl, and then they blame the fact that they are falling on their face on us. Figuring out how to make this work with a really SMALL setup like this takes PATIENCE and TIME.


    Dave
    Okay I went back and reevaluated my beginner entries and now that
    I am starting to see that the information has always been there and
    that it was just ME who didn't see ot or understand what it meant.
    all of my sassy comments seemed rather embarrassing to even me.

    So I erased them. I feel like a tard.

    Anyway I have always known that you were the Patient one, a
    constant simple tone that never changes and I am seeing that my
    gut was right.

    Okay let me say that the information collection is almost nearly
    impossible to grasp for the new guy and he is bound to lose control
    becoming frustrated as to whether the answers are there or not.
    I have to say that I can see how so many have come and gone but
    I guess they were not willing to stay with it and from the way it feels
    on my end were not willing to admit their ignorance.

    So let's get it on. One thing I learned along time ago is that each
    day sheds new light on the pathway and I become amazed on how
    blind I could have been.

    I heard what you said Dave, some of it for the first time and I want
    you to know that i am humbled to be instructed by someone so gentle.
    Wow. And then there is me and those who are like me who get
    discouraged and lash out. You are right, this is human nature.

    Thanks for staying with me til I get myself straight.

    Okay having said all of that I am considering the hook up you mentioned
    and I will let everyone know how it turned out. The one thing I do
    know is that to get the benefit from this motor we must run that
    baby up higher than I have it going. If I decide the converter failed or smoked, I'll buy the other one.

    The way it stands now is that a pumped set of batteries is a little better
    way of using energy but it all goes away over time and I have a low
    battery. Right now I am trying to see how much better this works.

    Apologies to all especially all who have been here so long and seen
    so many making a big verbal mess never to admit their faults.

    God Bless you all, MIKEY
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-09-2016, 08:57 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied


    Thank you aweiaini for your results. I am running a UPS at
    1-2amp loads on big batteries. Also SPECIAL Matt motor.
    Other motors do not give good results.

    I am learning by running a UPS for now and later maybe I can
    couple up a generator to the MODIFIED MOTOR then I will report
    my results. Also I hooked my motor only one way, there are other
    connection diagrams that I have not used. Dave ran his motor
    very very fast with a converter. Ours does not do that. With our
    connection the motor runs very slow. I think it is very important
    to run the motor at a very high frequency using two run batteries
    24.50volts of say 20ah then using a booster converter drive the
    motor high end sending the power to a 500ah set of batteries.

    According to Dave when done like THAT (See 11Turion Video) the
    large back gains greatly. maybe 500X ? I'll have to go back to see
    the numbers. Dave is no beginner, he knows his batteries and if Dave
    says it will work I know it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nD7a4bPS4o8

    Some questioned arise did Dave wait for his batteries to equalize and
    are these voltages relevant when readings are taken sitting or were
    the readings showing a strong battery under load? I don't know the
    answer. Batteries have fooled me, I am trying.

    The answer comes when you run power, I know that because resting
    batteries all read the same from 35%-55% fully.


    Here are the results for a 10hour run in the first diagram and the
    second diagram is the the same with 2 lights. I am only getting
    familiar with my bigger batteries and trying to establish a baseline.

    I did run a single battery to the UPS voltage was 12.23v drop to
    12.22v took 20minutes and 12.22v drop to 12.21v took 20 minutes.




    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-09-2016, 11:02 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • aweiaini
    replied
    i have test the motor again,and dont see any gain .
    the motor's efficiency is about 50%-60% of the original motor,base on a 16 inch fan as a load .
    three 12v batteries series and one 12v battery for charge,motor runs at 24v.
    battery 1 2 is 38ah,battey 3 4 is 12ah.
    before test i run the battery 0.7a for one hour ,obtain results: battery 1 2 discharge 0.04V and battery 3 4 discharge 0.12v.
    the test date:
    start voltage:bat1 12.50 bat2 12.48 bat3 12.28 bat4 12.68
    run half hour :bat1 12.48 bat2 12.46 bat3 12.23 bat4 12.77
    conclusion:
    motor consume: 0.7a0.5h50%24v=12v0.7a0.5h
    battery discharge:0.7a0.5h312v=12v0.7a1.5h
    battery charge:0.09v/0.12v*0.7ah=0.750.7ah
    COP=(0.5+0.75)/1.5=83%,or less。

    the battery‘s voltage up and down at running,because the motor’s spike voltage,it‘s not a useful voltage,if you disconnect motor from the battery,the battery’s voltage will recover at once。if you connect a oscillograph on the battery‘s electrode you will see the truth。

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    .................


    Originally posted by Midaztouch
    Mikey

    What is this winding?! What are you trying to do? What job is this motor supposed to do?

    Midaz

    Hey Hey Midaz Man

    It is all explained very well in this thread let me know what you think.
    I had to piece the information together over a several year period.

    Little here and there and I finally got it. Matt Jones and Dave have
    them running.




    This thread
    will be different in that members can post multiple pictures or thoughts
    and be welcome in doing so.

    I have been trying to understand the SPLIT POSITIVE systems for
    a time and will answer any or all questions to the best of my ability.

    In this thread I go out of my way to share the foundation of each idea
    that is experimented with including detailed graphs or data measurements
    that show joule counts. Battery monitors are not an absolute when
    you understand these simple joule calculations.

    Calculations must be made and are a long, tedious effort that is part
    of the reason posts can be lengthy. True research shows the beginning
    or the basic idea and then thoroughly documents. Understand that
    DOCUMENTS take huge amounts of time and posting that in the end
    reveal the machines ability to perform.

    The energy is there but just how much is found by data.

    The bottom line is that this information is lacking in almost every thread
    that makes the boast of "FREE ENERGY" mostly the idea an after that
    each is on his own.

    This is due to the loss of time involved to create comprehensive information
    streams all done voluntarily, giving of one's time and money to further
    any field.






    Good work all. I made a tiny bit of progress toward the
    balancing of my rotor. The idea Matt had to put more
    wire on in the spots you need is a good one because
    remember when the rotor spins up high RPM's that
    your balancing material can fly off.

    This rotor runs smooth and never rotates backward to find
    the heavy side. All sides are equal. What it look like ain't
    what it is. The sound of an imbalanced motor is short
    lived.

    This way i could epoxy these counter weight bands on
    and did so. Everything will be hard tomorrow, I put the
    coating on last night.





    Here is the beginning of my research with "SPLIT POSITIVE PUMPED"
    systems that will be complete with testing results such as the number
    of joule spent and the number of joules collected.


    Okay I finished the rotor and popped it all together, here
    she is. I put tape on the motor shaft so you guys can see
    the motor is running at the 1 amp value.

    1 amp and 22.9v running on these batteries that are to small.
    But it really kicked butt on battery "C" It drove
    the charge battery up fast. I didn't have these batteries charged
    all of the way up.

    I put the system together on a big setup also, can't show you
    all that right now but I will soon enough. On the larger system
    the motor runs at 1.6 amps after start up. At start up the amp
    draw is 2 amps then 1.75 amps with in 10 seconds.

    All of this WITHOUT the booster. Coming soon.

    Thanks to the guys who lead the way.









    Hi guys I been sittin up partyin with my new setup. This is
    so much fun, I am really tickled with this setup. After
    running those lithium batteries all by their lonesome I just
    don't know how to act with two energy pumps running at
    the same time. This is so cool Matt thanks-a-million for the
    special treat.

    The meter fluctuates from the pulsing action is pretty cool, I
    read 24.80volts and 25.90volts and back and forth on the run
    series batteries. Same for the charge battery, it goes up and
    down a little on the volt meter while running.
    13.02v and then 14.75v wow what a ride.

    Here is the deal guys. Put an amp meter across the ground
    for tuning if you wish as shown then when you are sure on
    what your voltages are going to be remove it. I didn't do this
    on purpose, it was handy and I just stuck an amp meter in
    the line like I always do and I saw right away when you adjust
    the boost converter just right the meter goes in the opposite
    direction, backwards.

    Get rid of that stupid pot and put a 10 turn on it or buy this
    one with a keypad.

    I didn't want to ruin my analog amp meter so quick like a birdy
    I lowered the voltage on the booster going back to the run
    batteries in series. As you will see in the diagram it is a very fine
    line. We are talkin just a few decimal points one way or the other
    and your system is out of balance.

    It was so fun to run I have been rejoicing and rehearsing what my
    next test will be. I am still working on getting these batteries up to
    snuff then I noticed that all of this pumping action was really good
    for my batteries right on top of running power.

    This is great, running power all aound, pumping and pumping where
    the voltage stays stable and the balance is kept all the while my
    batteries are being conditioned getting better and better.

    What a terrific invention

    I also have a few inverters staring me in the face and some UPS
    boxes and who knows what over here.

    This is really to much fun.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    THE MODIFIED MOTOR AND UPS CIRCUIT.

    I ran the little motor converted Energizer for a couple of days
    along with the booster so I could maintain a balanced set
    of batteries, pretty simple. No change in batteries after running
    the motor two days after work. Each day I ran the unit 3-4hrs
    til it stunk up the room with that God awful electrical smell.

    It is getting better on the smell as I run it.

    The batteries seem to stay the same and if you remember the
    amp draw was around 1.75amps till I hooked up the booster to
    recirculate power back to the series run batteries. Without the
    booster returning power back I would need to switch the batteries
    every couple of minutes or so being they are all fully charged.

    With that in mind this is running now and it is very slowly discharging.
    very very slowly. I think it moved .02 points in 2 hours. Not bad
    for an 1100ma battery draw that is redistributed around the batteries
    so I don't have to disconnect all of the time.

    I have also added one 10,000uF capacitor across the series run
    batteries thinking any switching energy from the booster might
    equalized into the batteries.

    Let me remind everyone who has not understood the FLOODED ALUM
    battery setting voltage of 11.70volts. It means that John Bedini gets
    an AAA+++ for his genius, Oops I better be careful about about
    building up John or I'll have jealous insiders chiming in taking
    shoots at me from here til Xmas. Come and get yours.

    Anyway these ALUM batteries are the kitty cats Meow as they
    say. These bad boys will literally hang at 12volt seemingly forever.

    Now don't get me wrong these batteries need to charge all of the
    way up JUST like a normal lead cell but it does take quite a few more
    joules to get one of these babies up, but if you ever do you will
    be in for your cake and eat it too, because these batteries are
    HIGH DENSITY batteries now. Check out John Bedini's YOUTUBE
    I think it is ENERGENX here it is.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/Energenx/videos

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ihOxdKiYmo

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYIhZvDDkaU

    [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYIhZvDDkaU[/VIDEO]

    Go to the cupboard pull out ALUM and add water and you are full rock
    and roll. Well stay away from the aluminum.

    Now instead of an acid battery that often will begin to much more
    rapidly decline at about 11.70volts, you will have almost twice the
    time because that battery will stay at 11.7 to 11.00 volts for the same
    period of time the normal battery sticks at 12volts for hour and hours.




    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-07-2016, 10:30 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    This thread
    will be different in that members can post multiple pictures or thoughts
    and be welcome in doing so.

    I have been trying to understand the SPLIT POSITIVE systems for
    a time and will answer any or all questions to the best of my ability.

    In this thread I go out of my way to share the foundation of each idea
    that is experimented with including detailed graphs or data measurements
    that show joule counts. Battery monitors are not an absolute when
    you understand these simple joule calculations.

    Calculations must be made and are a long, tedious effort that is part
    of the reason posts can be lengthy. True research shows the beginning
    or the basic idea and then thoroughly documents. Understand that
    DOCUMENTS take huge amounts of time and posting that in the end
    reveal the machines ability to perform.

    The energy is there but just how much is found by data.

    The bottom line is that this information is lacking in almost every thread
    that makes the boast of "FREE ENERGY" mostly the idea an after that
    each is on his own.

    This is due to the loss of time involved to create comprehensive information
    streams all done voluntarily, giving of one's time and money to further
    any field.






    Good work all. I made a tiny bit of progress toward the
    balancing of my rotor. The idea Matt had to put more
    wire on in the spots you need is a good one because
    remember when the rotor spins up high RPM's that
    your balancing material can fly off.

    This rotor runs smooth and never rotates backward to find
    the heavy side. All sides are equal. What it look like ain't
    what it is. The sound of an imbalanced motor is short
    lived.

    This way i could epoxy these counter weight bands on
    and did so. Everything will be hard tomorrow, I put the
    coating on last night.





    Here is the beginning of my research with "SPLIT POSITIVE PUMPED"
    systems that will be complete with testing results such as the number
    of joule spent and the number of joules collected.


    Okay I finished the rotor and popped it all together, here
    she is. I put tape on the motor shaft so you guys can see
    the motor is running at the 1 amp value.

    1 amp and 22.9v running on these batteries that are to small.
    But it really kicked butt on battery "C" It drove
    the charge battery up fast. I didn't have these batteries charged
    all of the way up.

    I put the system together on a big setup also, can't show you
    all that right now but I will soon enough. On the larger system
    the motor runs at 1.6 amps after start up. At start up the amp
    draw is 2 amps then 1.75 amps with in 10 seconds.

    All of this WITHOUT the booster. Coming soon.

    Thanks to the guys who lead the way.









    Hi guys I been sittin up partyin with my new setup. This is
    so much fun, I am really tickled with this setup. After
    running those lithium batteries all by their lonesome I just
    don't know how to act with two energy pumps running at
    the same time. This is so cool Matt thanks-a-million for the
    special treat.

    The meter fluctuates from the pulsing action is pretty cool, I
    read 24.80volts and 25.90volts and back and forth on the run
    series batteries. Same for the charge battery, it goes up and
    down a little on the volt meter while running.
    13.02v and then 14.75v wow what a ride.

    Here is the deal guys. Put an amp meter across the ground
    for tuning if you wish as shown then when you are sure on
    what your voltages are going to be remove it. I didn't do this
    on purpose, it was handy and I just stuck an amp meter in
    the line like I always do and I saw right away when you adjust
    the boost converter just right the meter goes in the opposite
    direction, backwards.

    Get rid of that stupid pot and put a 10 turn on it or buy this
    one with a keypad.

    I didn't want to ruin my analog amp meter so quick like a birdy
    I lowered the voltage on the booster going back to the run
    batteries in series. As you will see in the diagram it is a very fine
    line. We are talkin just a few decimal points one way or the other
    and your system is out of balance.

    It was so fun to run I have been rejoicing and rehearsing what my
    next test will be. I am still working on getting these batteries up to
    snuff then I noticed that all of this pumping action was really good
    for my batteries right on top of running power.

    This is great, running power all aound, pumping and pumping where
    the voltage stays stable and the balance is kept all the while my
    batteries are being conditioned getting better and better.

    What a terrific invention

    I also have a few inverters staring me in the face and some UPS
    boxes and who knows what over here.

    This is really to much fun.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 07-07-2016, 11:02 AM.

    Leave a comment:

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