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  • #16
    Originally posted by Aaron View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Was that you vid?

    If you place the bulb between the negatives, the current still moves in the same direction. You could almost call it splitting the negative but it doesn't change anything. There are variations of different circuits that use the differential between the negatives but is not identical to this 3 battery method - I'll share one at the conference, which is based on an obscure patent that nobody seems to know about.
    Yeah Aaron that is my video... It is an older vid. Good to hear your going to share more of your work.

    Dave Wing

    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Turion
      Do NOT run loads between the negatives. In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your batteries.

      I read that explanation from Matt... I have not seen that myself, but I do not discount what Matt says either.

      Dave Wing

      Comment


      • #18
        Originally posted by Turion
        Do NOT run loads between the negatives.
        In other words, do NOT split the negatives with a load. Matt has
        explained in detail why you shouldn't do that. It will ruin your
        batteries.
        Okay yes I agree that I need to do the basic tests first and
        now knowing that running a split negative will ruin batteries
        I am glad of that.

        I have some beauties that are 55 ah Deep Cycle I would
        rather hang onto.

        I looked thru 100's of pages and 100's of posts and I still
        have not found a wiring diagram but what I do remember
        was some text just a few lines telling how to wind in which
        direction, that I remember, finding? That might be hard to do.

        I have been reworking my SSSG osc and the fast diodes have
        improved the efficiency even more so it looks like the Bedini
        Oscillator builds are going to pay off in more ways than one.

        Comment


        • #19
          Okay I watched Matt's video's on motor windings again
          I must be getting old and forgetful the video's were
          there since last year and I watched some of it then
          but not all till now.

          Here is a rough draft of what I think he said.

          Basically he made a 2 pole motor I think by putting
          3 coils as one pole then another set 180 degrees opposite
          each other.

          The starting coil in the center is 40 turns CW direction
          looking down onto the I post.

          Next bigger coil is same direction 30 turns

          Next bigger coil same direction 30 turns for a total
          of 100 turns.

          Follow his video's for better overall clarity such as
          the balancing or using epoxy to hold windings
          tightly
          .

          Last edited by BroMikey; 06-08-2016, 12:13 AM.

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Turion
            Which wiring diagram are you unable to find.... the one for the motor modification or the one for the boost module circuit?
            There you are. Both but I think I have the motor.

            The boost I could guess.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Turion
              Post 969 In the Basic Free Energy Device thread has a link to the pdf of building the motor as well as a link to the schematic of the boost converter.
              Gotcha Great Video big gains.

              I redid my drawing. I remembered somewhere the motor cannot be
              loaded down and that it functions primarily as would a pulse
              circuit? In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating
              shaft is a nominal loss?

              Is this correct? Or can the motor turn a generator if it is
              really really small? I know you guys are getting sick of repeats
              but eventually once we get past the emotional trauma of
              personality conflicts the facts will go down much better
              .

              Comment


              • #22
                [QUOTE=BroMikey;289200][SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

                In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

                Is this correct?

                BroMikey,
                If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives!

                Comment


                • #23
                  [QUOTE=pmazz850;289207]
                  Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
                  [SIZE="3"]Gotcha Great Video big gains.

                  In other words the mechanical portion of the rotating shaft is a nominal loss?

                  Is this correct?

                  BroMikey,
                  If your asking this your just not getting it yet. Not only are you transferring almost all the power between batteries, on the way it spins the motor for FREE. Free to do what you want with. Like spin a generator, to make up for the small losses and some extra. It's a key to the system laid out here, the free load between the positives!
                  Thanks MAN keep me on track.

                  OMG I am grinding off the old winding, does that stuff
                  stink to high heaven.

                  That stuff is the worst.

                  Comment


                  • #24

                    It's comin round. The video's Matt posted saved me a
                    bunch of rewinding cause of the bearing and housing
                    may have touched so you need to leave the winding
                    a little slack so you can push it around flat.

                    If you wrap it to tight right down by the bearing and try
                    to pry it up later it might break the wires but mine came out
                    right in the first shot.

                    My motor was brand new and was somehow shorted out
                    smoking the windings. It is the same as my old 24v motor
                    cage but was wrapped with very very fine wire to run at
                    36vdc.

                    I had a big roll of 20awg and seeins how I had so much
                    extra room inside this cage and my wire bein so much thicker
                    I went to

                    50 turns first coil

                    40 turns middle coil

                    40 turns outside coil.

                    It's a bit bigger motor maybe by a few millimeters.

                    I used a die grinder wheel in an electric grinder like
                    Matt used to chop off the side opposite the commutator
                    and used a pin to tap the windings out.

                    Don't forget to clip your wires on the commutator.

                    Plenty of room on this one to clear the wire.

                    It took me a grand total of less than an hour so far to
                    cut off the old windings and rewind.

                    Gonna probably use my jewelers torch to silfos maybe we will
                    see what I think as far as getting the wires connected to the
                    commutator.

                    Gotsta git me some apoxy but eyes workin on it. I lived in Sc
                    7 years and all my old slang is coming back to me.

                    Texas was alot of fun too. Nevada, CA. FL

                    It's all the same thing, plenty of good folks everywhere.

                    .



















                    Last edited by BroMikey; 06-08-2016, 09:25 AM.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Motor Winding Coatings

                      I would like to share an experiment with resin hardeners I did
                      30 years ago. It saved me and still does money. It seems like
                      every time I turn around I am needing more resins to be hardened
                      to perform a given task.

                      I couldn't find the same picture of my can but as soon as I start
                      snapping shots I will show you what it looks like exactly. It is a quart
                      can just like this one that is sold at car paint counters for super
                      high prices but if you know what to ask for you can get the one I
                      always buy for around $15-$20 per quart at Sherwin Williams.

                      Ask for High Solids Polyurethane hardener B60V30 the B in the
                      number sequence stand for PART B. They will also sell you
                      a one gallon can of paint to go with that of polyurethane (Part A)
                      for about $200, just say "NO THANK YOU" it is a game the
                      chemists play getting you to buy the same thing for far more.

                      Now you have it all in your hand, this stuff at 10 percent
                      to 20 percent will harden up any cheap resins of POLYURETHANE
                      clear coat. After about 2-3 hours it turns to a gel so you have
                      that much time to let it set up as it gets thicker and thicker.

                      I like slow, slow is the best quality for bout anything you are doing
                      whether filling, clear coatings or adding white tint to paint it is tough
                      and long lasting.

                      I bought a 1 gal. can of the clear poly on sale for $20 today and I
                      have had the hardener for a few years. I bought the hardener from
                      many Sherwin stores.

                      It takes 16 hours to get hard and after 2-3 days it turns to a glass
                      hard material. You will not be able to get your thumb nail into the
                      surface, it is that hard.

                      It really is toxic stuff so ventilate well if you want to live. After a few
                      hours the odor dissipates but that initial set time gives off the smell
                      of model airplane glue that will knock your sockets off.

                      The thing I like about it is it takes a long long long time to set
                      completely and while I work I like to put it on runny getting
                      super penetration into the smallest areas, then 30 minutes
                      later another coat from the same mix and after an hour
                      til you can spread it like peanut butter filling huge openings
                      if need be.

                      It is a metal can quart size similar to this one only these
                      guys removed the label and sell the same stuff for $100.
                      Because you don't know what to ask for the consultants
                      hold the knowledge over your head, telling you of course
                      that it may not work and so forth. Ignore them.

                      Look for the number B60V30 below and now you can harden
                      up commonly available Poly resins found at your near by hardware.

                      I have used many epoxies and fiberglass resins that went into
                      an exothermic heated reaction that went to fast or even stuff
                      that peals off like garbage, not this stuff. Even the thinnest
                      amount walked on for years will not peal, this speaks about
                      adhesion.

                      I have covered floors and cars with this stuff or bikes or anything
                      that I wanted to come out like powder coat and it is indestructible
                      like stuff for out door decks.

                      I have used it at temps over 400 degrees and it doesn't blink.

                      Use a breathing mask with pumped in air from the outside like I do,
                      for jobs inside when coating takes to long or your lungs will be
                      stuck to your brain. It is that bad.

                      Be careful and you will be glad.






                      Last edited by BroMikey; 06-10-2016, 08:08 AM.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        For those of you dangerous enough to build your own
                        555 timer based BOOST CONVERTER look at these
                        engineers.


                        http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/152432/555-timer-boost-converter-doesnt-meet-spec



                        Comment


                        • #28


                          The windings can still be clamped into a vice to gently flatten
                          them as the resins harden.plenty of room to clear the windings.
                          To flatten windings put a block of soft wood such as pine on each
                          side and apply pressure. Or just strike the boards with a heavy
                          hammer against the table and check progress with each tap.

                          I don't show it here in the picture but I did have plastic spacers
                          thru the rotor housing keeping the winding away from the bearings.














                          Last edited by BroMikey; 06-11-2016, 03:28 AM.

                          Comment


                          • #29
                            Potential Difference charging.

                            [VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hjkq6W7VXkc[/VIDEO]

                            Comment


                            • #30
                              Here is a converter that operates from 3.5v up on the input
                              but I have no idea if it shares a common ground. This might
                              be cheap enough for someome to use only as a small test.
                              Or maybe these people already have a bigger one. I use one
                              to step up voltages now but the one I have it only 1 sq inch.



                              http://www.ebay.com/itm/6A-100W-DC-Converters-Power-
                              Regulated-3-5V-30V-5V-12V-Voltage-Step-Up-led-Volt-R-/190898609868?hash=item2c72719ecc:g:jHgAAMXQ0pNRvDL c




                              Features :
                              Dimensions: 67x42x18 mm (L*W*H)
                              Input voltage: DC 3.5V-30V
                              Output voltage: DC 3.5V-30V (boost,input voltage < or = output voltage)
                              Continuous current: 6A (long-term work)
                              Maximum input current: 10A (peak)
                              Output power: Max 100W, (U-in * I-in * Efficiency = U-out * I-out)
                              Voltmete display color: red
                              Voltmeter accuracy: (0.5% +1 digit)
                              Static power consumption: typically around 15ma
                              LED indicator:Have
                              Anti-reverse protection: Have
                              IN+: Positive input
                              IN-: Negative input
                              OUT+: Positive output
                              OUT-: Negative output

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