Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

Losses.
Consequently, windage – which is the displacement of air by any rotating components in the motor – tends to be one of the larger contributors to total losses. For example, a motor that loses just 10 W to windage at 1,000 RPM will lose 80 W at 2,000 RPM, 640 W at 4,000 RPM, 5,120 W at 8,000 RPM, etc. This rapid worsening of efficiency from windage losses acts as a powerful counterbalance to the otherwise tempting prospect of squeezing more power out of a motor by operating it at a higher RPM.

interesting note about A motor. A motor is THE motor of engineered choice. In a conventional motor these figures may apply under the perfect conditions. THESE motors have been reviewed 200 years and OUR motors have never reached the public domain for review. So far all we hear is this old design applies to the new which is totally wrong as per usual.

Your thought is for induction motors and a PMM has a different set of rules for a universal motor. These standard motors are all far different from one another and the EE Handbook has all of the presets. In fact most EE guys end up using a very few pages out of the handbook to design a specific product and this is the extent of their work for 10-20 year before changing.

Until physics is rewritten for intelligent life on earth we can not assume.

This is why the science dept can not see outside to other possible forms of construction. Unless the preset values are agreed upon by the top level governing body, the little Indians plugging in computer models all day can not proceed.

I know how to work a dictionary and a thesaurus also but who can commit them all to memory? Entire teams create handbook rules, all inside the oil industry controlled plantation.

good luck with that.

[Quantum_well]

Turion, look at the windage losses, You've got axial flux with a decent diameter of your rotor which will give a respectable peripheral speed. The best results for you should be in the 1500 rpm bracket, at higher speeds you'll have watts galore down the drain.

[Quantum_well]

Losses.
Consequently, windage – which is the displacement of air by any rotating components in the motor – tends to be one of the larger contributors to total losses. For example, a motor that loses just 10 W to windage at 1,000 RPM will lose 80 W at 2,000 RPM, 640 W at 4,000 RPM, 5,120 W at 8,000 RPM, etc. This rapid worsening of efficiency from windage losses acts as a powerful counterbalance to the otherwise tempting prospect of squeezing more power out of a motor by operating it at a higher RPM.

[Turion]

I didn’t foresee the opposition magnets getting hot. I didn’t see it when running the generator only 20 minutes at a time. Thats a really BIG problem. I guess I have some experimenting to do. Been thinking of ways to use the rotor to do some air cooling. But I will leave all that up to those with experience.

[alexelectric]

Well, the video is no longer available, Mr Dave, but very interesting what you say about core heating and the search for solutions.

But there is also heating in the repulsive magnets, when operating the generator project, and testing with the support magnets to reduce the core-magnet drag, the magnets get hot, I have not carried out more tests, I do not know how much they could affect to the generator, it's a matter of continuing with more tests, I don't know if you Mr. Dave already foresaw it

[Turion]

Next video
https://youtu.be/SCdoFRVhsyw

Fixed it. Sorry.

[Quantum_well]

Thank you Turion. I've been looking at your videos and appreciate the amount of time and money you've put in.
You find time to give detailed replies and you've been hard at it with the work on your house too.
What I've found is the necessity to do a huge amount of research before investing in hardware in order to get the best value and performance.

[Turion]

bro,
oops! I ordered the OTHER one you linked to.

Quantum,
Not so! I appreciate your input on the motor and motor controller. I realize a direct shaft connection will work better and be more efficient. I agree with everything you’ve said about that and have actually bookmarked the specific products you have posted. I have been researching motors to find what I need at the best price. In most cases I have actually put them in my cart at that site.

My problem is finances. I have a monthly budget for this stuff, and I have to prioritize. Getting a working core material that I don’t have is more important to me than replacing a motor I DO have with a better one. Same goes for a motor controller when I have a couple already that will WORK. To do a direct drive motor I would have to fabricate or have fabricated a new motor mount. It’s just that other things have to come first. If the core material works, I may be able to remove material from current bobbins. If not, I have no more bobbins, so that would be next. Then more wire. Then I could look at replacing the mount, the motor and a better motor controller.

Unfortunately, at the SAME TiME, I am funding another energy project that makes this one obsolete and it requires paying an electrical engineer to design and build some specific pieces, and that does not come cheap! I just spent $800 on THAT project. I would put ALL my resources into THAT project if I hadn’t promised Aaron I would present at the conference. The generator will do what I have claimed it will do with the motor I have and the controller I have and the coils I have. I shouldn’t have to run it for more than about 20 minutes at the conference and it won’t overheat in that amount of time.

I could have put together a fake video that shows all the results I have claimed, but I haven’t. Because I believe people need to test these concepts for themselves. Some will. I imagine after the conference a lot more will. I can’t wait.

[Quantum_well]

Hi, I realise you're not interested in my ideas for upping the efficiency of your set ups but I felt that this idea I came across was too good not to share. A grandson was playing with my headphones and they broke.
I tacked th IMG_20210224_104839~2.jpg e break with a bit of Supafix (superglue and powder) Then I wrapped a good amount of black thread round the break, and this is the magic bit, give the thread a soak with superglue and dab dry with some tissue.

[Turion]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Nationa...oAAOSwWTRWx3rW

On its way.

[BroMikey]

42 and alloy 50 means cheaper. this is what we want 50:50 not 100% sure new open box stats missing. generally the nickel content is given a % number, lots 99% out there stay away.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/25229320967...kcid=28&chn=ps


https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Nationa...oAAOSwWTRWx3rW

[Turion]

My goal right now is just to come up with cores that will run without heating up. I don’t care what the output is as long as it doesn’t go down too much. As long as the COP is up there it will be a prototype that people will pay attention to. Let others figure out all the needed changes. I just want a working prototype that shows the concepts work and won’t break down every five minutes. I have that even with iron cores. I can run it for about 20 minutes with no danger of melting cores, and that’s good enough. I will try that wire on two coils and see what I get. My friend who has a duplicate machine us trying all kinds of things. I’m sure he will keep after it.

[BroMikey]

How many cores for $100? That’s 2 lb spool. The permalloy BB’s are $1,010 for 5 pounds. So that’s cheaper.

That is why the space age ribbon was produced. It lowers costs. the wire is better than nothing. Now back to the increase. A faster responding core that the usual heat is stored in the magnetic field make it speed up sooner. It will still work on your longer coils. However as speed up is sooner an overall shorter coil lets you increase the amps right there. So that is another extra. You will get higher peak volts and double the amps.

[Turion]

How many cores for $100? That’s 2 lb spool. The permalloy BB’s are $1,010 for 5 pounds. So that’s cheaper.

[BroMikey]

I should add something to all that, and no disrespect to Thane intended,

I am not trying to discourage you bro, but what you need to figure out is how to build a coil that puts out WAY more than 130 volts at 1.5 amps

thx Dave onward and upward. Make it work 10 minutes at a shot but that heat that melts the coil should be collected in the form of electricity. 50% increase right there. Nickel steel not steel cores.

mig wire spools for welding cast iron is 45% nickel content, cheap test. I I had an extra $50,000 I would send it to you so you could hire something done asap, tic tok

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ZwOA1wQ9pwGCAU