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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Latest video




    Last edited by BroMikey; 05-01-2021, 05:34 AM.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Thane is a great example to all of us for a demo that shows the on load conventional dive tho slight of rotor speed and the tiny increase for the regenx coils. The slight increase is irrelevant for the new coils, what is important is they do not slow the system down. On the other hand a conventional coil slowing down a rotor is not only significant but also has a direct relationship to increased power requirement using this old system. The special coils do not work the same. The old coils are goo for a 65% to 85% high end max, while COP for the new coils might be as high as 300%-500%.

    You know what this is like trying to explain? Take a cubic yard of sand and measure it. Then add Portland and measure it. Has the size changed? No. See how this requires people to think? Your lesson today is to find out why the block size has not changed.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Voltan,
    The design of having the coils and magnets extending out from the rotor like spokes on a wheel is fine for only one or two coils, but you are pulling in one direction with the coil and pushing in that SAME direction with the magnet. And how many magnet and coils combinations can you have in the "spoke" arrangement on say a 10" rotor? That's about 31 inches of circumference. When I did the math on that, I saw I could only have about 5 coils with the opposing magnets on a 10" rotor. I have ten coils on a 10" rotor with my machine in a different configuration.

    Plus, look at the direction of "stresses" on my setup. The coils are in pairs on each side of the rotor, so they are both pulling the rotor magnets toward them in opposite directions. Equal stress. The magnets on the stator are both pushing the rotor magnet away from them at the same time, toward each other, so Equal stress. All the pushes and pulls cancel each other out, so the rotor shaft and bearing have little or no stress forcing them sideways. I did a lot of different experimenting with this, and then settled on this configuration. I am not saying it is the best, but it is the best I could come up with.

    My two new motors arrived today, so I am going to try and put out at least ONE new video this weekend. I will show the motor running on 36 volts and how many amps it takes to just turn the rotor. Then, with the rotor already up to speed, I will add 10 bobbins with just cores in them, so everyone can see that there is indeed magnetic drag that slows down the prime mover when just the cores of the coils are put in place. The video after that I will show the motor running with those 12 cores in place and the magnets all adjusted to eliminate the drag and reduce the amp draw of the motor.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by voltan View Post
    i changed pic 3 to a closeup of my hacked rc motor. them neos don’t have holes, but i will get some that bolt on. it seems fairly balanced in that it’s just mounted on a bit of acrylic and it just sits stationary when i spin the rotor, and it runs straight in a video of it spinning. but yeah, i won’t push it. it’s just to try the concept of having a pm on 1 side and a coil on the other side for a stator.
    Sure, let me see it when you get it up and running. Hole will help and you can balanced rotors so you can get like 1000 rpm, just put a plywood wall all of the way around it and watch it spin looking down on the system. Than pull the walls off when you work on it. That way if the kids come in the room while you run it they will be safe, you too.

    PM on 1 side coil on the other side? Happy testing. Only 1 way to find out.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Voltan,
    Same principle at work as in my generator, which I show below. It's what I have been saying for YEARS now. What you have shown is EXACTLY the 7th grade science experiment I asked bystander to do that he hasn't got around to yet. It proves what I have been saying is true. I just configured it differently after many small builds. But I started with EXACTLY the configuration you show. Then I moved to a motor coil as well as a generator coil so I didn't have a motor turning it. And finally I went to the configuration shown below, where the rotor is turned by a small motor and I have multiple coils and multiple sets of magnets on the stator. One set of magnets for each coil pair. An odd number of coils and an even number of magnets on the rotor. If you watch my videos I explain why. I already know it works, so have fun.


    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPGrCicsZXA
    ROTOR SETUP.png
    Last edited by Turion; 04-29-2021, 03:40 PM.

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  • voltan
    replied
    i changed pic 3 to a closeup of my hacked rc motor. them neos don’t have holes, but i will get some that bolt on. it seems fairly balanced in that it’s just mounted on a bit of acrylic and it just sits stationary when i spin the rotor, and it runs straight in a video of it spinning. but yeah, i won’t push it. it’s just to try the concept of having a pm on 1 side and a coil on the other side for a stator.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Magnetic generator engine.

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Now all I need is a drive unit and no input electricity will be needed.

    FREE POWER MAGNETIC ENGINE

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Backyard rotor man, "STRIKES AGAIN"

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Here is my rotor that turned out perfect at 1600 rpm. All homemade backyard formulated. Now if you have $10,000 to shell out every time you turn around like the big boss, you won't need to see this video. In fact you will probably mock and ignore the effort.


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  • BroMikey
    replied
    If this is your rotor I would stay under 1000 rpm's assuming (I can not see) that those magnets have a hole in them and a bolt is used to mount them to this bent piece of metal. Vibration could be quite high. Nice blue motor. Do you have a coil in mind? Here is the proper tolerance for safety. This rotor is good for 400 rpm.

    Last edited by BroMikey; 04-29-2021, 09:43 AM.

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  • voltan
    replied
    after weeks of considering how to make a rotor, i remembered that i only need a 2 magnet rotor to experiment with the hybrid stator concept in pic 1.
    i give you the bunnings solution. it looks feasible to have more than 2 magnets and if they got a central hole would be pretty secure bolted on.
    and that spins free and easy on a RC hobby motor with its integral bearings and the cogging is deleted by removing the neos and the outer drum. pic 3. i can’t upload a video of it.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by voltan; 04-29-2021, 02:53 AM.

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  • Turion
    replied
    Dragon,
    You never get more than you started with. The point is, the energy that is recovered did work and can be reused to do work again. Until the LOAD is used to produce some energy, which means an efficient load, you will never get more than you started with. Or at least I don't know how to.
    Here is the first build of the zoo force motor I did years ago. I know I have videos of more recent builds, but I learned an incredible amount from this first build, and it is exactly the same KIND of motor that Bob French is using. As far as I am concerned, the Zero Force motor is the GREATEST GIFT John Bedini gave us.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXOu49oVhHs

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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by voltan View Post
    here’s a clip of a pulse motor in the zone at 1500 rpm. hehe sounds like the presenter’s in the zone as well..
    https://youtu.be/ttZEttQn00A
    Yup he has been around for years and he finally found thane Heins experiments but his first attempts way way back failed. I did not see this success video. Good to know he is not blaming Thane like so many do when they can't produce.

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  • voltan
    replied
    here’s a clip of a pulse motor in the zone at 1500 rpm. hi to all the rasta experimenters.
    https://youtu.be/ttZEttQn00A
    Last edited by voltan; 04-28-2021, 09:28 AM.

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