Motor Generators

[BroMikey]

How is this one? Just take the mtr out.

[BroMikey]

Here are the stat's on my watt meters. The picture I posted is wrong I will only be using a single boost converter that will be powered up split positive arrangement. The second boost could be used to keep me from switching batteries round. This diagram was produced from coaching from you Dave, years back. Are you taking it back?

I was looking to see how much these watt meter eat at the circuit. I will assume 25-50ma

• 1. Electical parameter measurement function(Voltage, current,active power, energy）
  2. Voltage alarm function(over voltage alarm threshold, backlight and voltage flashing to alarm)
  3. The reset function of energy key.
  4. Store date when power off.
  5. Large-screen LCD (display voltage, current, active power, energy at the same time)
  6. Backlight function.
• Display interface
  Display interface is large-screen LCD (display Voltage, current, power, energy parameters at the same time)
• Display format:
  1. Power: test range: 0-2KW
  Within 1kw, the display format is 0.0-999.9W;
  1kw and about, the display format is 1000-2000w.
  2. Energy: test range: 0-9999kwh
  Within 10kwh, the display format is 0-9999wh;
  10kw and about, the display format is 10-9999kwh.
  3. Voltage: test range: 6.5-100v
  Display format: 6.50-99.9v
  4. Current: test range: 0-20A
  Display format: 0.00-20.00
• Precautions:
  1. This module is suitable for indoor, please do not use outdoor.
  2. Applied load should not exceed the rated voltage, current.
  3. Wiring order can't be wrong.
• Specifications:
  Type: PAEM-031
  Working voltage: 6.5-100VDC
  Test voltage:6.5-100VDC
  Rated power: 20A/200W
  Meaurement accuracy: 1.0 grade
  Size: 89.6*49.6*24.4mm(Length*Wide*High）
  LCD screen: 51*30mm(Length*Wide)
  Color: Black

[Turion]

Good luck with that.

[BroMikey]

Here is my very basic free energy device without the motor as a load. I will burn LED lights

[BroMikey]

Understand that the load is in SERIES with the boost, so setting the power supply on 14 volts to BEGIN WITH may not be enough to get things running. If it isn’t, turn up the power supply.

My packs are 11v each. I spent time today digging up boosters and watt meters, hobbling along with crutches. I pulled my dern leg socket a couple a weeks back. Now I use 1 crutch. It's a beast. I also took out my 3" dia X 20" stainless thin wall tube and some factory bent 1/4" SS tubing from refrigerated drink machine and incorporating to produce a heat exchanger gasoline vaporizer. But that will be fun for another day soon.

Here is what I have on hand that I dug out of the gold mines. I'll be back, thanks a mill



https://www.ebay.com/itm/22426910223...3ABFBMkJCrzMlg




https://www.ebay.com/itm/28176870486...3ABFBMxPefzMlg

[wantomake]

Sorry guys,
Can't do much shop time today. Wifey is switching her room to our bedroom and I'll get my own room as a study. But not as a shop!! Lol!

Maybe later tonight may have some time to experiment some?

Looks interesting Turion.

[Turion]

Understand that the load is in SERIES with the boost, so setting the power supply on 14 volts to BEGIN WITH may not be enough to get things running. If it isn’t, turn up the power supply.

[Turion]

The simplest thing you can put together to see if this is real is just a buck module or a boost module. Both CAN BE off the shelf “Overunity” devices (I hate that term) when run correctly, and you can’t get more basic than that.

When run between the positives you either CAN recover some of the energy put through the primary side, or you cannot. If you CAN, and you also get energy out of the secondary, and those add up to more than you put in, there is the gain you are looking for.

Example: Put in 100 watts. Recover 70. Produce 80 watts out the secondary. Input 100 vs return 150. COP: 1.5

I started with a power supply set to 14 volts with a kilowatt meter on the output as my “source battery.“ The reason I started with 14 volts is your capacitor and load are basically at “0”’, so a 14 volt setting gives you 14 volts potential. Run it through through the boost module to a capacitor with a kilowatt meter on it and a load as my battery 3. The load across the cap is there to pull the power out of the cap and use it up in a way that can be measured. The output of the boost set to 14 volts can also go to the capacitor. I think I also put diodes in to keep the output of the boost and what went through the boost from feeding back on each other, but that’s later in my notes. Probably after I blew up a couple boost modules.

You are not fighting impedance with this setup and you can measure inputs and outputs.

drawing attached. If your load is not big enough and you build up a charge in your capacitor, the potential goes away and you are done. My power supply shows watts out. If you don’t have one that does that you ned to meter what is coming out of the power supply to compare. . 9DF6CFD1-DDD4-44BE-A756-F4B21B00B993.jpeg

[BroMikey]

Since Dave is dogging me to get the 3bgs part 10 working I will show you my booster. BTW I have 3 li-ion packs ready to plug into the 2 watt meters. There is battery 1 then battery 2 and battery 3. There will be no battery 4 or battery 5 at this time, let's save on confusion.

This is one of 4 boosters I can use and remember between 10%-30% loading eff will climb from the mean rating. In this case 19vx2.5amp=94% I won't be running that high. I was thinking of using five 1 watt LED's in series which I will crank the booster up to a whopping 16v. Boost input = 12.4v approx. so to get 5 watts out of the string, input current will be around 400ma.

Probably 96% eff at that load plus the circuit burns 25ma idling

Starting out with a differential of 12.4v since pack 3 will be dead at 9.6v so input amps will be around 310ma

Here are my pack voltage for all 3 batterie

22.2Wh
Polymer Li-ion Battery: 11.1 V 2000mah (22.2Wh, 4.2A rate)

Running batteries pack 1 an 2 will be at 44wh while pack 3 charge battery will be dead needing 22wh to be charged full. 4 hrs should do the trick? Maybe 5 hrs.

- Newly Improved Version
			- Input voltage: DC 10V-32V
			- Output voltage: DC12V-35V(adjustable)
			- Input current :16A (MAX) (more than 10A please strengthen heatsink)
			- Output power: natural cooling 100W (MAX), strengthening cooling 150W (MAX) real power
			- Conversion efficiency: 94% (when Input 19V 2.5A Output 16V, Reference)
			- Output ripple: 2% (MAX)
			- Working temperature: industrial (- 40 °c to +85 °c)
			- If room temperature is more than 40 °c degrees, please reduce power or enhance cooling system
			- The high-voltage module should avoid the use of electricity in high voltage no-load
			- Full-Load temperature: 45 degrees
			- No-load current: 25mA typical
			- Voltage regulation: ± 0.5%
			- Load regulation: ± 0.5%
			- Dynamic response speed: 200uS 5%
			- Short circuit protection: No (Please installs the fuse or protection circuit at input parts)
			- No Input Reverse protection (Comply with a reverse protection or connect a diode at input parts)
			- Size:6.5x4.7x2cm(LxWxH)

............................

[BroMikey]

As for slow learners, it's been like ten years and you don't have a working 3 battery setup yet, LOL I can trade insults if that's your goal.

You are funny. You sure have a big stick

[Turion]

I had no problem figuring it out. I just thought you might want to make it easier for others. Suit yourself.

As for slow learners, it's been like ten years and you don't have a working 3 battery setup yet, but are able to show links to others that DO? You make fun of me for posting the same simple concepts over and over that you haven't been able to figure out how to implement? LOL I can trade insults if that's your goal.

[BroMikey]

Here is another link for slow learners like Dave

https://www.google.com/search?q=anot...hrome&ie=UTF-8

That was my POINT. You didn't explain to people what they had to do to the links to "FIX" them. You just "assumed" everyone would know what YOU had done to change them. Not everyone will figure that out since you did different things with different links.

They don't belong here

[BroMikey]

That was my POINT. You didn't explain to people what they had to do to the links to "FIX" them. You just "assumed" everyone would know what YOU had done to change them. Not everyone will figure that out since you did different things with different links.

Low I.Q. can't figure it out? Old man Dave is going around scolding You seem cranky.

h t t p s : // www .bit chute. com / video/wGFGzVYd05c8/

Got my caps and batteries plus multiple boosters lining up. Several watt meters
These batteries cut my failure rate by 99.9%

[Turion]

you will have to fix the links. they work fine. once you get to bit chute all of the 3bgs show up

That was my POINT. You didn't explain to people what they had to do to the links to "FIX" them. You just "assumed" everyone would know what YOU had done to change them. Not everyone will figure that out since you did different things with different links.

[BroMikey]

None of those links work the way you have them as far as I can tell. You might want to EXPLAIN to people what they have to do with the periods and * you have in the links.



OR, you can go to (the b word that browsers don't like, which is replaced by 4 of the bit ch ute.com and search for "3 Battery System" and all the videos by anothermadscientist83 came up, which are all 3 battery system videos. I think they may be the ones you are referring to.

Google an Youtube hate bit chute so must change the links pasting them in the address bar manually. What are they afraid of?

you will have to fix the links. they work fine. once you get to bit chute all of the 3bgs show up

https://www.bit chute.com/video/t723E1Ruzv4R/