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  • shylo
    replied
    Nice work

    Hi Christian,
    You should put your ramps of both sides of the stator magnet.
    I'm only using rotor magnets and layers of steel.
    Watch how a magnet will be attracted, and then be hidden.
    Just an idea, Nice work.
    artv

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by lorinrandone
    Hello everyone.
    Look, everyone knows that I do not control the English. For this I pray, ..............................
    Mickey, Bushing Bearing is good but we need to reduce the inside diameter to 10-12mm. cristian
    Good picture Cristian. Okay I will use a small bearing.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    Thanks Christian, Bromikey, and Randy.
    Has a standard way to test ramps been posted yet?

    I'm curious how you guys test your ramp.
    Thanks guys,
    wantomake
    I'll give that one a spin

    (1) If your ramp does not come close enough to the rotor magnet
    induction forces will not exceed the so called sticky spot.

    (2) Single rotor magnet faced up with a single stator magnet might result
    in a 30lb pull force at say a 5mm gap. When balance/cancellation is
    achieved a pull force of 1 pound or less maybe considered normal.

    (3) When step one is correct install a single ramp. If balance is lost then
    repeat step one all over again till losses or the sticky spot is reduced
    to the lowest level. Ramp tines to close to stator will greatly
    increase imbalance.

    (4) To test the ramp slowing bring the rotor magnet around until induction
    from the "Y" ramp begins to pull the rotor magnet into it's field.

    (5) If the rotor magnet is not accelerated sufficiently enough to make it
    past the cancellation zone, ramp parameters should be reviewed.

    (6) Ramp shaping, ramp angling, ramp mass should be changed so enough
    momentum through acceleration can be realized to overcome the so
    called left over magnetic lock.

    (7) Ramp tine distance from the stator magnet and mass are a place to
    start so increased inductive forces will eventually exceed the limited
    cancellation losses.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 11-04-2015, 06:01 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    test standard

    Thanks Cristian, Bromikey, and Randy.
    Has a standard way to test ramps been posted yet? I've not seen one or I missed it.

    This is how I test the ramp to find out if the rotor will be pulled past the stator magnet.
    I move the rotor magnet slowly toward the ramp until it starts being pulled toward the attraction magnet. Let it freely move with no tap at all. This shows if there's any sticking point.

    So far no acceleration past the stator magnet. Mind you if given a small tap it does accelerate past the magnet. And the balance is very good between the stator magnets.

    I'm curious how you guys test your ramp.
    Thanks guys,
    wantomake
    Last edited by wantomake; 11-04-2015, 10:30 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tachyoncatcher
    replied
    Attraction Ramps

    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    ... The beginning of the forks is the sticking spot. With a small cheap compass found the tines polarizing in different ways.

    Questions.
    Does this slow the rotation from the fork to the stator magnets?
    Can this polarization be stopped by bending the tines back toward the other end of the stator magnet? ...
    Hey wantomake,
    When the ramp splits, some induction force is lost. I have found two ways to overcome this. Bring the ramp closer and increase the mass/thickness of the tines in the middle. Once the magnet gets close enough to the stator magnet, on the attraction node, then it will pull the rotor in. It was suggested to extend the tines beyond the attraction magnets to allow the next ramp to influence the rotation before the attraction ramp ends. It was also suggested to thin the attraction ramps to a point at their ends. I tried to bend the ends away and found that bending caused a two fold issue on the attraction side. It increased the force vectors to the rotor and the north pole polarity in the ends of the tines increase this stopping force.

    While typing this out, I just realized something. Duh, I have been bending the ends of the forks away from the rotor. What if we take those north polarized fork ends and bend them toward the rotor instead? Maybe past the middle of the rotor magnet. Yes, they're north polarized, even though they wrap around the south pole of the stator magnet. The moving rotor magnet causes this.

    Something new to try. --- thinking out loud ---

    Cheers,

    Randy

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Thanks Cristian

    I understand your post well. How about this? Oil Bearings many balls?

    No my rotor is 12"

    Boston Gear 5491 Anti Friction Ball Bearing 0 500" Inner Diameter 1 125" Outer | eBay


    Last edited by BroMikey; 11-04-2015, 12:18 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Let me tell you where I am at in the process.

    All my tests have been by hand and now that I am trying to

    bring the magnets closer the forces are much stronger. So strong

    that my bearing is letting the rotor flop. The rotor ends are moving

    1/8th of and inch so everytime I try to force the magnets together

    to get cancellation I fail. I ordered the magnets and brass. Last night

    I pulled a 1/2" shaft out of a AC fan motor. Nice stuff. It's got to

    be tight. I remembered Mack saying it is the little things that ruin

    your project. Then I remembered Mack saying use a feeler

    gauge to make spaces, and my rotor is moving 1/8"??? No NO

    Then I see Cristian's ramps are very strong and when I look at my best

    ramp I laugh because it flops all over. I liked that ramp.

    Oh well I'll keep it all for a side line test jig.

    My round magnets will go on the shelf in favor of square magnets at

    which time I will let you all know what I see by comparison.



    I can't get the ramps close enough to the rotor yet. $6 Each for these.


    I will let you all know about my plastic later.

    Last edited by BroMikey; 11-03-2015, 09:09 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by wantomake View Post
    Wow, really slow here.
    This seems to be a sticking point for the rotor magnets.
    I am not sure how you look at polarize. This is how I view the process.

    2 rotor mags, 2 stator mags and 1 ramp. Adjust stators till no sticky

    spot is detectable and post video.


    Next take that ramp off.

    Next put the other side ramp on and repeat the adjustment.

    No sticky spot.

    Move one stator magnet while the other is fixed til equilibrium is

    reached. With my biggest ramp attached to the attraction stator

    my repulsion stator magnet is 1" off center. As well as angling.

    No stick spot/polarization/magnetization/stuck. None.

    Having 1 ramp on off balances the magnetic fields greatly yet after

    both ramps are installed balance in restored.


    To achieve balance with one ramp, ignore the fine print and go

    outside the box. Move the stators around.

    Macks last post suggest stator magnet testing for good reason.

    It may look like the magnets are dead on using line of sight but those

    distortions in the field lines say otherwise.


    1 degree off on a stator is enough to keep you from balance. I have been

    meaning to draw up a diagram showing the probability of field line changes

    based of magnet angles with distance.
    Last edited by BroMikey; 11-03-2015, 03:03 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • wantomake
    replied
    observations

    Wow, really slow here.

    I've been testing different size laminated and iron ramps. The one common problem with each one is the polarization of the tines nearest to the stator mags. This seems to be a sticking point for the rotor magnets.

    I thought my unbalanced rotor was the cause, so I painstakingly got it balanced. Then noticed the rotor still stopping at the same spot. The beginning of the forks is the sticking spot. With a small cheap compass found the tines polarizing in different ways.

    Questions.
    Does this slow the rotation from the fork to the stator magnets?
    Can this polarization be stopped by bending the tines back toward the other end of the stator magnet?

    Well the laminated iron seems to polarize less. But this is where I am at this time.

    Hope all is well for Madmack,
    wantomake

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Stator angle AND ramp mass effect on cancellation center line.

    Some may ask why would I want to angle the stator so far over?

    Because this increases induction power in ramps. The bottom dia.

    shows how the ramp throws off the cancellation center.

    Adjustable stator angle will give the power stroke more energy but

    at the same time move the cancellation zone.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    This one is even better. The opposing forces cancel, the induction

    ramps attract very strong and once the ramping is done, cancellation

    past both sides repel the rotor magnet in the positive direction.


    A strong attraction is achieved for both ramps not just the attraction

    side. The cancellation is easier and as the magnets leave the cancellation

    area instead of being pulled back are both equally repelled.

    BTW I thought I was the first man to invent this drawing then

    I see people did that already but I just didn't see it til now.

    Thanks to everyone, this is soooooo exciting, so rewarding to learn

    new things. Thanks Mack.

    PS.Note:
    I am back after a few more tests. The repulsion side in this diagram needs

    the stator magnet to turn away from the incoming rotor mag, while the

    attraction side stator needs to turn into the rotor magnet. Since

    this is not a uniform adjustment I had some concerns about the

    cancellation effect. I set it up both ways by hand because all of my

    test have been done this way from the beginning. What I found is that

    the rotor magnets don't care which side of the stator pole, it is exposed

    to, as long as the angles are the same on each side.

    I have achieved cancellation many times using this diagram. Does

    anyone understand what that means in terms of optimizing induction

    forces and cutting loses? Please give it some thought.

    This layout pushes as much as it pulls.


    I mean to tell you this config might run on it's own. Barely.

    Last edited by BroMikey; 11-01-2015, 10:49 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    This is my French!!!Oui, Monsieur

    You are my friend. And teacher.

    I am downloading now.





    Originally posted by lorinrandone
    Mickey. A big shout out to you to others and especially to Mack.
    I understand that you want to publish my last video, but is more comfortable waiting for the next because it is much more evolved. I mean that my progress with this engine are incredible. I have come | close circle more than once. My current problem is the precise balancing of the four poles that I use at this time. Ie it is not possible without full circle perfect balance. I am also using my sheets transformer ramps that are slightly different from the usual. I'll leave some pictures with the pair of ramps made my style. the NEXT step for me will make a six-pole rotor in a numerical milling cutter to eliminate balance problems. I came up idea of will check the effectiveness of the ramp using only a magnet. You will see the mode of behave the magnet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S4SxXyvfk1I That's all for this time.
    And Mickey, Thanks for keeping open thread
    Best regards. cristian
    Last edited by BroMikey; 10-31-2015, 09:12 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • tachyoncatcher
    replied
    Balancing

    Originally posted by lorinrandone
    ... My current problem is the precise balancing of the four poles that I use at this time. Ie it is not possible without full circle perfect balance....
    Cristian,
    I find weight balance the easy part. I either drill holes in the heavy side of the rotor. Or, if you find the imbalance to much for material removal, then drill holes in the light side and fill them back up with a epoxy/fiberglass resin and lead bird shot mix. I use fiberglass resin in place of the epoxy for composite mixes like that.

    The tough part for me is getting the magnets all equal in strength. Mack shared the process for that here.

    Regards,

    Randy

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    One more diagram for Ramp/Stator tests.

    This is the way to go. Cancellation is much easier for step 1.

    Then the pull back from the passing rotor magnet to stator is far

    less. It is about losses "REMEMBER"

    This arrangement with both changes makes both ramps equal

    on acceleration. Guys try it, you will never look back.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Hey guys

    I have been hangin out havin the time of my life learning new things.

    Enclosed are 3 Figures in the diagram. The first one is the very powerful

    attraction side power stroke. But what of the repulsion side? Shouldn't

    that be a power stroke also? UFO, let me say this to you. If we turn your

    motor upside down and put the repulsion side on the top here is what

    will happen. The rotor magnet ramping will not engage unless you force

    the magnet past that certain break through area and then it will zoom

    along. Nothing like the attraction side as far as I can see.

    @ everyone.

    The UFO video is a good start and shows me the repulsion side needs work

    so I did some thinking and testing, hands on.

    In Fig.B I have tried many configurations with repulsion ramp tines going

    past the stator. I have increased the ramp mass, all of that. It doesn't

    work right. It doesn't work as good as the attraction side and I want it to.

    I want the repulsion ramp to pull as hard and strong as the attraction

    side ramp and I wasn't ever getting that.

    What I mean is I wasn;t getting the long distance attraction pull on

    the repulsion side that makes for a longer more powerful run.

    I want a power stroke on the repulsion side equally as strong.

    Well, I got it this way. I don't know if it is right or wrong and I especially

    won't know how that idea will effect the transition between cells.

    I have not tried my new ramp with both ramps on yet.

    I just wanted you all to see what I found.

    Leave a comment:

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