Excellent work Gents, keep stirring the pot so to speak.
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Thanks for the kind words guy's.
@ Wantomake, i will use the same magnet holders, and just machine more slots to fit them in, at the desired angles.
The rotor holders will have a small amount of adjustment to balance out the forces.
I have made some very chunky, solid, stator holders that are fully adjustable, and will be trying small gaps between magnets, which requires a very strong embodiment.
Regards Cornboy.
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Nice build!!!
Good looking build Corn man,
Hope all goes smooth on your new farm and garlic crop. I've dreamed of a self sustaining farm with solar, wind, and magnet motor power!!
So you are going for the eight position rotor magnets. I like the holder design. Will they swing any to allow the 30° angle or just straight 180° on center like you show them? Maybe tilting the stator magnets to an angle will work as Madmack said. I'm curious to see your ramp setup.
@Bromikey,
Interesting way to get accurate rotor made for those of us without a lathe.
Always enjoy your great builds. Very encouraging and interesting,
wantomake
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Nice going Cornboy
I like to pick up ideas such as yours for the rotor magnets to
move.
This is what I did for a few minutes today. I got out my grinding table
It uses a standard grinder that is C-clamped to the table and the 2
bearings as well.
It really makes a nice edge if folks don't have their lathe yet. My
perfect circle is still here, it is 15" by 1" thick set up to do magnet
tests.
Last edited by BroMikey; 02-11-2018, 10:52 PM.
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Hi Mack, hope you are on the mend.
Hello to all, i finally had some time to make a rotor, am in the middle of my first Garlic harvest on the new farm, so time is scarce.
The rotor disc is form ply, which is cheap and reasonably stable, i will be starting with the magnets in line with axle, to alter the rotor magnet angle i will simply cut slots in the ply to desired angle and use the same magnet carriers, as the carriers are the hardest to make.
Now to make two stator magnet holders that are adjustable, in and out, and for angle.
Best Regards, Cornboy.
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Hi MACK and the Gang
Thanks Cristian, the washer is 304 stainless steel
Check this out guys, this is really really free and easy.
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W9DL9g1z3t0&feature=youtu.be[/VIDEO]
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Hello Everyone
I got my bearings to day MACK. I should cut the rotor in tonight.
It really floats freely and nice, I love it. The rotor is 3/4" acrylic.
The bearings come empty and zerk fitting come with it. I like
the magic oils better. The rotor is rock solid, but I'll need more time Mack
2 weeks plus with these days ahead. You know what I mean
I'll BRB to show the nuts and bolts later.
You guys are awesome.
Good video's Cristian.
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Hey Mack
I been looking at bigger magnets again, like 1" at K&J Magnetics
and they sent me this warning video. Still waitin on bearings
and will be cutting my rotor that I got on it's own hub now.
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0t8yDnyOaQ8[/VIDEO]Last edited by BroMikey; 11-12-2015, 02:20 AM.
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Well I use to work at the hospitals and I can tell you sometimes the
patient is tested just before going in and a delay of a few days before
could be set so everything goes smoothly.
He may have just gotten home after a long wait, well I mean he doesn't
have to keep running back so much. I don't know about Mack but we
better let him rest for several weeks more. At our age getting cut don't
heal up at fast as it use to.
@Don't worry about anything Mack, my bearings are almost here
and my rotor got a pilot hole and circle in it last night. I have some
other materials on the way so when I can in the next few weeks I'll
be back to show everyone.
I heard UFO is working at multiple cells.
I have some brass inserts that are barbed and I have a $3000 ultrasonic
probe on like a drill press stand along side a giant heavy duty power
head to pump out the waves. These things work beautiful.
I am sure you know what i am talking about, you drill a hole alittle smaller
than the insert, much like you do when you drill and then tap a thread, put
you part over the hole in the acrylic and gently apply pressure.
This might be kind of nice so I can tighten things down without having
nuts sticking out the bottom plus the threads on these inserts equal
having say 4 nuts worth of threads so lock tight works great.
I know it is not that important for proof of concept.
There is something about drilling many holes in plastic that are better
filled in with an insert so maybe the plastic won't get weakened so
badly. My 1950 trim saw machining table makes nice cuts too.
Also I am still dreaming up ways to produce my first adjustable rotor
magnet mount and when I do you can count on me to show everyone.
I have an oven I heat plastic in sometimes so for the base I think I am
going to melt down some scrap HDPE I have into a 1.5" thick sheet
18" X 18" and man does that stink for a few minutes. I always melt my
plastic outside and in less than 30 minutes the part is on the cool down
phase.
I use a heavy steel plate bottom so it comes out super flat using sides
much like a concrete form looks only I just fill it to the top and let it cool.
I also need more time to measure magnets to see if this pile I bought
has 2 rotor magnets about the same, then another 2 magnets for
the next place around the circle. It seems like to me as long as the
sets are close to one another it will have fewer anomalies.
Once my rotor bearing and rotor are cut I am going to a happy man
since I won't have a floppy rotor like before. I was noticing just
how strong these 1/2" square magnets are and thinking how important
it is to have a good solid bearing to work with.
I don't know for sure if I am going to like the bearings yet til I try them
out. I will be better than the last set. Then there is the cuts to make
for the rotor mounts as they need to be identical to insure balance.
I have a million questions for you that will have to wait til I dig my way
out of all of this work that needs to be done first. By then it might be
somewhere between "TURKEY DAY" and "XMAS"
Hope you are well and feel up to hanging out on the thread say in about
a month, maybe less. Either way we have a lot to go on
that we received first hand from you that will keep us going for awhile.
Cristian is almost there.
Til then Macktake care of yourself and may THE KING OF GLORY
shine on you in HIS great kindness.Last edited by BroMikey; 11-10-2015, 02:56 AM.
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has anybody heard from Mack ?
How's he doing after his surgery ?
thx
Chet
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Madmack,
Hoping that all is ok after your surgery.
To All,
I've not had a chance to work on this project lately, hope progress has been made by someone out there.
Been reading and studying the Magnetism book and postings from Madmack to get better grasp of the ramp build.
wantomake
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Here is my complimentary video for step one in the
MadMack Magnet Motor design. For those of you just chiming in
wondering why people are still trying to make magnets a free energy
source let me say that magnets have always been that.
MadMack does not do video, therefore show and tell is an undertaking
of those who replicate verbalized instruction. MadMack spent 40 years
in the industrial engineering field and I am sure acquired
many expertise in that time.
During the course of years MadMack had studied patent documents
and in time built his first Magnet Motor of which he developed into more
advanced designs later on.
The video you see of me is what I have "Gleaned" from MadMack
and since I have always wanted to build a magnet motor Macks
information caught my eye right away.
Step one is (CENCELLATION) Also I am showing pieces of my build.
In step one 2 rotor magnets are faced off with 2 stationary magnets
called stator magnets. You will see.
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQn9koeshws&feature=autoshare[/VIDEO]
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It's brainstorming type weather for putting together a MadMack
magnet motor. I will do a video also on how my rotor failed over
a measly micro smidgen got those magnets glued in good
enough to last me a lifetime and now I'll have to take a hammer
to them
Nothing takes the place
of a picture. It's worth a thousand words they tell me.
Last edited by BroMikey; 11-06-2015, 05:53 AM.
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any progress
Originally posted by Mario View PostHi all,
attached just a rough hand drawing. Not included is the distance between a stator magnet and the next ramp, (in case of more than 2 setups around the motor), which should be equal to 1.5 - 2 times the distance between rotor magnet and ramp at the widest point.
I have not added the bent down part of the ramp as I'm having a hard time getting Madmacks last part. The induced poles are clear but some sentences I'm struggling with.
If you move (slide) a magnet over an iron bar with a spacer in between the only forces I see are:
-attraction towards the bar as the magnet approaches it
-constant force as you slide along
-magnet attracted back as it wants to leave the bar
I can't see any force that wants to hold the magnet in the middle…
Mario
I'm re-reading from post #1 and trying to understand what I missed on ramp building. Noticed the picture you posted which looks similar to J. Bedini all repulsion motor that Turion posted earlier. Did you get it to spin or accelerate past the stator magnet with out tapping it past?
Thanks,
WantomakeLast edited by wantomake; 11-05-2015, 06:36 PM.
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I decided to start over going to step one.
I will be posting video about step one. In step one many possibilities
exist to achieve cancellation.
Mainly what I found with my rotor magnets is one side will cancel
while the other side is not. Since my rotor magnets are non adjustable
this stops me dead in my tracks. This junky test platform is good
for showing up sloppy work.
I'll be right back.
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