Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[clarence]

Hello Bro,

parts will be ordered 2/17 for the Fast diodes and PWM that we discussed - shipping time ?, who knows !
may post results by 2/24? as always - depends!
will see.

thanks Bro,

Respects,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Also I am including the same diagram with description.

There are so few parts to perform this battery charging
function that even I can do it.

[BroMikey]

Hey Clarence

Thanks for the update on your progress and how you are
charging a large battery with a radiant TBC open circuit
of course is always way high but that energy self regulates
but if I leave my battery unattended she smokes.

I started with this crowbar circuit that they teach in 8th grade
electronics. I almost forgot about it. All it does is take out my
resistor when I get to the right battery volts. No zener on this one.

I hope you like my caveman controller.

I hate sub miniature digital boards.

[BroMikey]

Hello BroMikey,

Been a while for sure!

I then hooked the output of the rectified dc 10.9 vdc
into the batt circuit ( in the meantime it was recharged back to
it's same previous dc voltage value) and restarted the unit again
watching the batt voltage and run time. when the batt voltage
dropped to 11 volts dc again I stopped the unit the second time.
the difference in run time was about 3-4 minutes longer with the
added rectified 10.9 vdc.
not much - but I believe it shows that the method that I am
after is definitely viable.

so for now I simply need to perfect the resistor values to give a
14.5 to 15 vdc steady rectified voltage supply and run everything
again.

All in all, still pushing forward! I also attach a photo to show how
I wound all the coils I use. the pvc pipe for the wire coil is 3/4 "
ID but the pvc pipe for the coil to wind around needs to be 1 " ID.

Thanks for listening BRO!

Respectfully,

Clarence

Wow, that is great progress MAN!!! Yes I agree and understand
that you did some dividers and got positive results, so now you
need a different resistor and or divider to get the voltage up.

That is awesome progress Clarence.

Your picture today finally made clear how you lay all of your
coils flat having so many leads on them.

Extended runtime hey it's gonna bee a sweet deal.

[clarence]

Info

Hello BroMikey,

Been a while for sure!

I have attached a couple of photos of all the coil units STACKED as they should be.
you should notice that the two inner red & black wires on the TESLA PANCAKE COIL and the TESLA BIFILAR COIL pass up through the center of the VERY TOP TBC coil which enables all of them to set perfectly flat on each other and get the full benefit of the magnetic flux energizing them. The underneath TBC coil center wires do not pose any problem so they run straight out underneath everything and connect as needed.

with respect to my work on the intended battery voltage circuit using the smaller TBC coil and its output of 50 vac to accomplish this, that work was slow and back and forth at times. the first thing I found out is that using a voltage reducing method whether by my DIY or the regular voltage divider
resistor scenario is totally undependable when applied straight to an acv
source. ACV has so damn many direction paths going on at the same time
it will work good for a while and then it abruptly changes back and forth through the added circuit components to a pathway that it likes better and then you are screwed.

I finally just went ahead and rectified the voltage and THEN added the voltage divider components. I knew that DC has ONE direction and takes the path of least resistance so I figured I could deal with that a hell of a lot easier and it proved true.

At this point I need to pass on some new information to you about rectifying
TESLA type components - coils in particular!
This particular TBC with its output of 50 vac when rectified by my valued high dollar high voltage high frequency Diodes properly FWBR connected
gave an output of 92 VDC. I am sure the conventional crowd reading this are about to have s***hemorrhage. according to their old school values it should only show 70.7 . HA HA ! Tesla always gave extra.
Oh Well.

For the voltage divider I laid aside my DIY components and decided to use the commercial high Mega ohm high watt Ohmite brand resisters since all the other forum members would have to go that route anyway.
after using several voltage divider calculators with their recommended resistor values the the RUN results would ALWAYS turn out a lower value DC output than expected. finally on the last run with a 10.9 vdc result I decided to go ahead and use DC system any way to see if it would possibly help in any way to battery - inverter system in operation. I used my 300 watt GoPower inverehooked to a 7ah 12v small battery powering a small CFL.
I checked the batt voltage and noted it and then turned the unit on and watched the batt voltage and run time. when the batt voltage dropped to 11 vdc I stopped the unit. I then hooked the output of the rectified dc 10.9 vdc
into the batt circuit ( in the meantime it was recharged back to it's same previous dc voltage value) and restarted the unit again watching the batt voltage and run time. when the batt voltage dropped to 11 volts dc again I stopped the unit the second time. the difference in run time was about 3-4 minutes longer with the added rectified 10.9 vdc.
not much - but I believe it shows that the method that I am after is definitely viable.

so for now I simply need to perfect the resistor values to give a 14.5 to 15 vdc steady rectified voltage supply and run everything again.

All in all, still pushing forward! I also attach a photo to show how I wound all the coils I use. the pvc pipe for the wire coil is 3/4 " ID but the pvc pipe for the coil to wind around needs to be 1 " ID.

Thanks for listening BRO!

Respectfully,

Clarence

[CANGAS]

Hello CANGAS,

the answer is quite simple and comes from years of experience with all three
mediums.

I dealt with grounding rod systems for many years on the farm pertaining to the miles of electric fence needed to keep the cattle and especially large bulls
contained within the multi-acre spread out pastures. I did try the Iron first and it did deteriorate a lot quicker than I thought it should and lost effectiveness.
I also tried the aluminum rod and it didn't do as good as the plain iron. it quickly made a thick coating of oxide and lost it's effectiveness also. the cooper
coated iron was the most effective and long lasting one out of them all and are still in service after many years of use'

I never used the galvanized iron rod, so that's one that I don't have experience on at all.

I personally don't like to have to use ground rods at all! to damn much effort and AND expense involved for certain and 60 of them was a GIANT pain in the butt!
that is just another one of the reasons why I have been working within the scope of the whole unit to eliminate the need for EVERYONE of them.
I already know the HOW and the DIRECTION and the METHOD to accomplish all of this but I live in the REAL WORLD and reality takes MY TIME which is limited the same as everyone! I have mounds of other work to do which is why you don't see many posts from me.

I have also learned NOT to divulge everything I know and have accomplished
because of the members on the forum who JUST CAN"T WAIT to jump on the
toilet and drop their load! their LOAD being just what you know it is!

not this week but maybe mid next week I hope to have a few more results to
post and info to give out.

Thanks for listening!

respectfully,

Clarence

Many thanks for your response. You don't know how much it encourages me.

My natural field being physical mechanisms, I quickly and easily get in over my head regarding electronic devices. I still don't even have a hazy understanding of the fundamental principle of your good work, BUT THAT DOES NOT MATTER. Results speak for themself!

I probably read but did not remember, your explanation of different ground system materials you have used and I wanted to possibly be helpful with the little bit of knowledge I have about electrochemistry and such. But you are already more than one step ahead of me. Happily so. One of the first things to come into my mind was use of copper coated iron, and you already did that, very good.

Very good to hear that your theoretical principle may not be bound to a ground system, at least not of the large scale used so far. You have my prayers and good wishes for your work in that direction. My own work, involving most often purely mechanical devices, has substantially been satisfactorily completed for a little while, awaiting now for assessment of world financial and political conditions to appear to provide a relatively safe window of opportunity and of course a clear signal from The Man that I have the green light to start to try to deliver it to humanity.

News of your work has been a delight to me because there are many circumstances in which I imagine yours to be lighter (if a ground system is not essential) and therefore more convenient to carry about. I assume that you foresee your technology could possibly be portable and mobile? (Don't give away any secrets. I can subdue my curiosity.)


Most respectfully
CANGAS

[clarence]

Past experience

Hello CANGAS,

the answer is quite simple and comes from years of experience with all three
mediums.

I dealt with grounding rod systems for many years on the farm pertaining to the miles of electric fence needed to keep the cattle and especially large bulls
contained within the multi-acre spread out pastures. I did try the Iron first and it did deteriorate a lot quicker than I thought it should and lost effectiveness.
I also tried the aluminum rod and it didn't do as good as the plain iron. it quickly made a thick coating of oxide and lost it's effectiveness also. the cooper
coated iron was the most effective and long lasting one out of them all and are still in service after many years of use'

I never used the galvanized iron rod, so that's one that I don't have experience on at all.

I personally don't like to have to use ground rods at all! to damn much effort and AND expense involved for certain and 60 of them was a GIANT pain in the butt!
that is just another one of the reasons why I have been working within the scope of the whole unit to eliminate the need for EVERYONE of them.
I already know the HOW and the DIRECTION and the METHOD to accomplish all of this but I live in the REAL WORLD and reality takes MY TIME which is limited the same as everyone! I have mounds of other work to do which is why you don't see many posts from me.

I have also learned NOT to divulge everything I know and have accomplished
because of the members on the forum who JUST CAN"T WAIT to jump on the
toilet and drop their load! their LOAD being just what you know it is!

not this week but maybe mid next week I hope to have a few more results to
post and info to give out.

Thanks for listening!

respectfully,

Clarence

[CANGAS]

Don't forget the large copper lead wire on the 60 copper rods
when you are figuring the price tag. Better go to the bank
or pray that your ship comes in.

Remind me why the ground system cannot be composed of cheaper iron or aluminum.


Your welcome
CANGAS

[BroMikey]

Shelling Out the Green Stamps

Don't forget the large copper lead wire on the 60 copper rods
when you are figuring the price tag. Better go to the bank
or pray that your ship comes in.

[fer123]

Lot of work and time invest, congratulation. Mr clarence must invest years. I will be connected and intrigue at the same time how everything will surprise us. Thanks.

[BroMikey]

Really good post, love every single parts on it, when yo talk about the 2 TPC induction coil, and 2 TBC the wire size is 10 AWG or 6AWG? I have question how will connected to the captor, I hope this altruist man will find the way. Best wish for you.

I have some additional information for all Captor Builders.
This device taps AMPS on one end and VOLTS on the other side
contrary to what we have been taught as a good power burning
topology.

The actual input voltage to the coils is a steady input of
4.17 volts to each of all the coils. the input to the large
TPC coil is 41.7 vac + from the ZVS to each of it's two sets
of 10 turn windings which makes it's magnetic flux pass
4.17 vac to all of the coils that are placed near it.



I have some pictures here for you that shows how much time
and effort this unit has taken. I have other pictures but this is
all you get today.

I really love this build

The first 3 are known as TESLA BIFILAR COILS or TBC

The very small TBC is being used as a battery charger loop.
If I have more time I would tell you about the special charging
network to lower the Battery Charing small TBC voltage so
as to regulate energy back to the source.

That is all specialized and a completely different subject to
tackle. But ya know me, I ain't-a-gonna let up.














This one is TPC or TESLA PANCAKE COIL




ALL COILS FOR STACKING

[fer123]

Really good post, love every single parts on it, when yo talk about the 2 TPC induction coil, and 2 TBC the wire size is 10 AWG or 6AWG? I still have the same question how will connected to the captor, I hope this altruistic man will find the way. Best wish for you.

[BroMikey]

Let me update you all on Clarence work if you have not
understood the additional device added to his captor.

The captor gives AMPS and at present his captor toroid device
connects to 60 grounding rods where extra energy is claimed.

Next you should have realized that Clarence wanted 2 other
things out of his power unit

1 being to recharge the batterysufficiently enough that the
source battery would not drop down during a 12 hour run.

2 that a 240vac output be possible.

Right now as we speak Clarence uses his captor and his ZVS driver
to a stranded copper wire in the shape of a pancake. This section
of stranded wire has tin on each strand and the collection of strands
is a 6AWG cable.

The ZVS unit powers the 6 AWG wire at high frequency at 4.1 volts DC
and requires a 24vdc supply. The supply is plugged into the captor
inverter and feeds the ZVS the needed 24vdc.

I couldn't wait for all of the final results so I gave him a ring It's
been bugging me how he has it all connected but I will give you
some output too, in a minute.

Next the 6 awg pancake is slapped on the back with another coil set
that gives the 120/240vac output needed for operating home devices.
This new slap on the back is in the form of the TBC aka
(TESLA BIFILAR COIL) for those who didn't know.

The TBC is made of the same copper stranded wire that is tinned
so remember that it is very important. Tinned wire is a cheap substitute
for silver coated wires and gives nearly the same result. Skin effect
is what we are exploiting here.

Okay the TBC is stranded also and the collection of strands equal
10 AWG.

Let me cut short:

The battery is a sealed Lead Acid 70ah at 12vdc. This battery can not
supply all of the current to power a set of heat lambs used to heat a
room totaling 750 watts for 1 hour.

750watts/12vdc=62amps and the battery is simply incapable of doing
that. The battery could not sustain a 62 amp load for 30 seconds yet
the 12.5 volt battery runs those heat lamps brighter than wall power
for 1 hour when the battery voltage reaches 11vdc.

This is because the circuits are not finished and no battery charger
is working like before the system augmentation. It's coming around.

I told Clarence many people have those 3 wheel carts that require
150-250watts to run around with like the Walmart has using a
50-70ah battery but most of those are either 24vdc of 36vdc.

He is using a single 12vdc battery and on a C20 scale of a 70ah
battery means we must do the math like this 70ah/c20= 3.5amp
capable but no battery can give up it's entire store so the figure
is even lower. In real applications a 70ah battery is only good for
66 percent of the total sticker rating.

This is found by 70ah X .66 = 46ah true rating and to get that
is as follows..... 46ah/C20= 2.3 amps this means no more than
2 amps or more can be used for extended use to get a full 20 hours
of use.

These golf carts and electric grocery carts are geared way down
for power not speed but if used like scooter will last only one
hour are so.

So maybe you can see my point. Even now without self sustaining
battery recharging systems that will be replaced with super cap
starter banks that will increase output more, the home brewed
invention gets more out than is put into it.

[bistander]

Battery charger

Yes, you need a diagram....

Here's a diagram for you. There are hundreds; just use google.

Remember system
topology for modern day switch mode smart chargers are not
designed to deal with any variance from line.

120 to 370 VDC includes a good amount of variance. The battery charger with the specification in the following link can be bought for less than the price of three 10MΩ resistors. Clarence shows a FWBR and filter capacitor. I don't see where this wouldn't work for him, but it might not. Just trying to help the guy out.

https://www.trcelectronics.com/ecomm/pdf/gc120.pdf

bi

[BroMikey]

Back on post #982, Clarence has an output from the rectifier. Take the plug on the switch mode battery charger and connect one pin to the rectifier positive and the other pin to the rectifier negative. Connect the charger output to the battery. Do you really need a diagram?

Yes, you need a diagram so that after you look at it awhile
you might have time to change your mind. Remember system
topology for modern day switch mode smart chargers are not
designed to deal with any variance from line. Not designed
to deal with spikes, not designed with HIGH FREQUENCY rectifiers
not setup to protect the mirco's against spiking.

I have a trash can full of that garbage (my own personal take) of
digital circuits that couldn't cut the mustard. Now if you want to
rebuild all of the safeguards in between THE UNIT and the tap point
on the smart charger, be my quest.

Add it all in, suppression and so on.

I have a smart charger right here that popped and the chips
are all sub-minature. Robots mounted everything and is possible
to repair.

Let me see your diagram. You guys catching on yet?

I like those fast diodes for High Freq's.

Those tin boxes I posted are said to be able to handle over
voltages well.