Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[luc2010]

Hello,

Its good to hear from you!!

are we injecting dc current into the toroid?
looking forword to finish this work... now i am not on good ground location!!!

Keep Up The Good Work!

Thanks and Regards
luc2010

[wantomake]

Geomagnetic location

To All,
I do live in a very high geomagnetic location and have built the original setup and I have tried different ways to make this setup work as Barbosa and Leal said it did. But cannot get the coil/loop to extract energy to power anything.

If you live in a country that uses the electrical company SWER utilities, then you may have success. This is only my opinion from my personal experiments and thoughts.

Prove me wrong and I'll help you build your setup from what Clarence was so gracious and patient to teach me.

I've learned so much from this experience but I too will move on to other projects,

wantomake

[Coil]

Hi Clarence

Nice build. Don't know if I am mistaken (thumpnail 1) but is there a short, red wire over the green ground coil on the captor? See picture.

[clarence]

Thanks

To All,
I do live in a very high geomagnetic location and have built the original setup and I have tried different ways to make this setup work as Barbosa and Leal said it did. But cannot get the coil/loop to extract energy to power anything.

If you live in a country that uses the electrical company SWER utilities, then you may have success. This is only my opinion from my personal experiments and thoughts.

Prove me wrong and I'll help you build your setup from what Clarence was so gracious and patient to teach me.

I've learned so much from this experience but I too will move on to other projects,

wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

Thanks for the Heads Up on the SWER thing.

Will work on that.

Respectfully,


Clarence

[clarence]

Swer

To All,
I do live in a very high geomagnetic location and have built the original setup and I have tried different ways to make this setup work as Barbosa and Leal said it did. But cannot get the coil/loop to extract energy to power anything.

If you live in a country that uses the electrical company SWER utilities, then you may have success. This is only my opinion from my personal experiments and thoughts.

Prove me wrong and I'll help you build your setup from what Clarence was so gracious and patient to teach me.

I've learned so much from this experience but I too will move on to other projects,

wantomake

Wantomake,

Originally I stated out with my own DIY SWER system but abandoned it as time went by.
So this AM I went back to it with a quick hurry up connection from the
neutral to three separate ground rods ( none connected to the 60 rod grid
return). Had to place a run capacitor inline to keep the inverter from growling
like a mad dog.
Placed my single household receptacle across the Captor output and the
Inverter Hot Lead and flipped the switch.
Plugged in a 4 watt night light I use for testing and a single 13 watt CFL
and both did light right up.
Checked the voltage and showed 64/65 steady volts AC. Amps on the Green # 6 AWG showed showed .2 and steady. Also the Amp reading on the Captor
itself rose a bit.

However this was the limit that it would power for now.
Had only extended the lead for the toroid Neutral connection, which was an already dedicated circuit.
I believe that an non-dedicated neutral lead would allow the full voltage to be captured by the ground return.

Will try that process next.

Thanks again,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Schematic

Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

· Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

· The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake

[clarence]

Help coming brother

Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

· Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

· The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

Give me about 45 minutes or so and I will take some section by section photos of the unit with the bulbs now burning . I took you advice and did the SWER thing.

The photos are better than a schematic and you look at and see what goes
where!

I'm on it!

Clarence

[wantomake]

Pictures and words

Clarence,
A picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks ole friend,
wantomake

[clarence]

Here they are

Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

· Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

· The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake

Wantomake ,

Here they are - Hope it helps.

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake ,

Here they are - Hope it helps.

Clarence

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

[clarence]

Will do

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

Wantomake,

Yes Sir - will do.

Will post back later this PM.

Clarence

[clarence]

Done

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

Wantomake,

I disconnected the black hot lead at the small terminal block and disconnected the neutral to the toroid - this killed the Captor and Isolated
the green ground return straight thru to the the bulb receceptace like you wanted.

Checked the voltage at the terminal block before the receptacle and it read
44 volts ac - Same as before - not enough to light anything.

What do you think?

Clarence

[clarence]

Wantomake,

Since the voltage is the same evidently the Captor can't get anything done.
Thought about the ground rods early this week. Been in the ground for close to 4 years
so have no idea of what shape they are in- corrosion or deterioration or whatever.
Late this week I will get two new single rods to use one for input and one for return.
Will see what happens then.

Clarence

[clarence]

Wantomake,

After doing multiple type connections and several additional ground rod input and output
attempts I found that all of this was as useless as hell. The basic circuit is Valid except
for TWO connection FLAWS in the Ariovaldo schematic. It shows the Black hot lead going to the GDT -Then The toroid - then the out put terminal. WRONG!!!! The Hot lead ONLY goes to the toroid and the output terminal block- nowhere else.

It is the NEUTRAL line that goes to the Toroid AND THEN ALSO goes to the GDT.

The GDT MAKES the Green ground rod return line serve as the RETURN lead.

J , Here are the High points to consider:#! This B&L unit actually DOES work.
#2 It is NOT dependent on Location.
#3 It is NOT dependent on magnetic anomaly.
#4 It is NOT dependent on a SWER location.
#5 It CAN be used on a two wire location.
( That I am doing right NOW )
#6 It can be used on on a battery/inverter
system. ( it will need a HIGH Amp Hour
Battery Bank Plus a Smart Charger - the
Smart charger CAN be powered by the
Captor also - am doing that as I speak.)
You definitely need to reassemble your unit . Forget about testing - Just use it.
You will need to use some Kill-A-Watt meter on the AC in put to show the difference in Amps in versus amps out through the Captor loop or people will just still think it's only a regular
AC circuit . Use an AC amp Clamp meter on the Green wire ground return line also. Then compare the difference in amps in and amps out. Then tell me what you think.
Tomorrow I will attach the new Photos of my unit in operation and show all the new connections.
Too late to get it done this PM.
EDIT:
Late this PM I did use it to run my Microwave - The Kill-A-Watt for operating everything showed 11 amps .
The Fluke Clamp meter on the Green Ground Return # 6 AWG wire showed 17 amps .
So that means the Captor FURNISHED 6 AMPS!

Clarence

[clarence]

Photo and connections

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

Wantomake,

Here is the Photo and the connections shown in it.
Holler back when you can or want.

Respectfully,

Clarence