Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[wantomake]

Update

Clarence and All,
Just quick update. Changed setup to match the pictures. All I need is the GDT, should be here Monday from eBay. Got a .001 uf 400 watt capacitor from local Radio Shack. Right now I have a neon lamp and 0.1 uf as a small LOAD but think that's the problem. At least I hope it is. The loop only has 56 amps and is only wound 4 times compared to your 5 1/2 times loop. Is that a factor ?

I can at this point just barely power a 100 watt bulb. A 13 watt cfl will flicker but not light up. I did connect the setup to mains 120 ac just to test if my 2k watt inverter was ok. The 100 watt bulb did get brighter with the mains power connect. I have a solar battery bank of 9 marine at 115 Ah, so it's enough amperage to power anything. I have three solar panels at 85 watts each.

Any hoo that's my findings until Monday when parts arrive,
wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence and All,
Just quick update. Changed setup to match the pictures. All I need is the GDT, should be here Monday from eBay. Got a .001 uf 400 watt capacitor from local Radio Shack. Right now I have a neon lamp and 0.1 uf as a small LOAD but think that's the problem. At least I hope it is. The loop only has 56 amps and is only wound 4 times compared to your 5 1/2 times loop. Is that a factor ?

I can at this point just barely power a 100 watt bulb. A 13 watt cfl will flicker but not light up. I did connect the setup to mains 120 ac just to test if my 2k watt inverter was ok. The 100 watt bulb did get brighter with the mains power connect. I have a solar battery bank of 9 marine at 115 Ah, so it's enough amperage to power anything. I have three solar panels at 85 watts each.

Any hoo that's my findings until Monday when parts arrive,
wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

After I read your post I went back to your previous post where you pic showed the lamp and cap and the lamp glowing.
The lamp is just and INDICATOR that the circuit is alive. What it actually does is ARC OVER at 90 volts and the DROP BACK to 60 volts continual.
That is why your voltage is so low that the CFL will only flicker.
The GDT does the opposite.It doesn't turn on until the 75 volts its rated for
and then Allows FULL voltage thru continually which is why it becomes an IMMEDIATE DEAD SHORT. The CERAMIC mini .oo1 uf cap just acts as a small LOAD and gets rid of the dead short effect.

Don't know about the low amperage on the loop though? - you might check
it's supply from the inverter.
Secretly I believe the LOOP and it's Amperage reading is another "LOOKY HERE!" distraction they built into their devise to throw CEMAR off from what they were really doing. WHAT were they REALLY doing you say?
Think on it!.......CEMAR was FLOODING the countryside with VAST amounts
of NEUTRAL voltage through their SWER system. B&L (IMHO) just found a
simple but effective way to GOBBLE it up with out going thru any METER.
THAT is the same thing we are doing here. ALL OF YOU need ton think about
it! There is no MAGIC BULLET to this.

CEMAR is being substituted with our PV panel/battery/inverter/neutral earth input/neutral earth return/SWERsystem - it's just reality looking your nose to nose.

Is it PRACTICAL and can it be useful.............Y E S !
That is why I intend to intensify the amount of neutral earth voltage
available equal to a MINI CEMAR. Do I know how to do that - yes I do.
Have spent the last few days putting together in thought mode the method and system to do just that.

Enough typing for now.

Thanks for your comments Wantomake. Hope some of this helps.

Respectfully,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Yes good info

Hello Wantomake,

After I read your post I went back to your previous post where you pic showed the lamp and cap and the lamp glowing.
The lamp is just and INDICATOR that the circuit is alive. What it actually does is ARC OVER at 90 volts and the DROP BACK to 60 volts continual.
That is why your voltage is so low that the CFL will only flicker.
The GDT does the opposite.It doesn't turn on until the 75 volts its rated for
and then Allows FULL voltage thru continually which is why it becomes an IMMEDIATE DEAD SHORT. The CERAMIC mini .oo1 uf cap just acts as a small LOAD and gets rid of the dead short effect.

Don't know about the low amperage on the loop though? - you might check
it's supply from the inverter.
Secretly I believe the LOOP and it's Amperage reading is another "LOOKY HERE!" distraction they built into their devise to throw CEMAR off from what they were really doing. WHAT were they REALLY doing you say?
Think on it!.......CEMAR was FLOODING the countryside with VAST amounts
of NEUTRAL voltage through their SWER system. B&L (IMHO) just found a
simple but effective way to GOBBLE it up with out going thru any METER.
THAT is the same thing we are doing here. ALL OF YOU need ton think about
it! There is no MAGIC BULLET to this.

CEMAR is being substituted with our PV panel/battery/inverter/neutral earth input/neutral earth return/SWERsystem - it's just reality looking your nose to nose.

Is it PRACTICAL and can it be useful.............Y E S !
That is why I intend to intensify the amount of neutral earth voltage
available equal to a MINI CEMAR. Do I know how to do that - yes I do.
Have spent the last few days putting together in thought mode the method and system to do just that.

Enough typing for now.

Thanks for your comments Wantomake. Hope some of this helps.

Respectfully,

Clarence

Clarence,
If does help very much. Can't wait to test it with a GDT in the circuit.

I agree about the inverter power, been thinking about purchasing a smaller 300-400 watt and larger 8-10k for shop and home use respectively.

I've always believed and wondered about earth energy. Because of this system, I now know there's more to harness from good ole mother earth. No I don't know how but, being retired have the time to learn.

Over next few days will re-do and improve the setup for test and practical purposes.

Much to think on and prepare,
Thanks as always- wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence,
If does help very much. Can't wait to test it with a GDT in the circuit.

I agree about the inverter power, been thinking about purchasing a smaller 300-400 watt and larger 8-10k for shop and home use respectively.

I've always believed and wondered about earth energy. Because of this system, I now know there's more to harness from good ole mother earth. No I don't know how but, being retired have the time to learn.

Over next few days will re-do and improve the setup for test and practical purposes.

Much to think on and prepare,
Thanks as always- wantomake

Wantomake,

Besides just thinking about it, I just went and disconnected the power leads from the toroid transformer altogether. Started the system again with all bulbs lit and glowing and while watching them intently i retouched the leads to the toroid transformer of and on for repeated times......did the lights brightness increase or decrease any at all?.....NOPE not a bit!

I had become suspicious a while back when looking at one of their Aluminium box units with it's amperage and voltage meters and the readings that were showing up while operating. The voltage was showing 221 v ac
but the amperage was showing only 55.0 amps. The wire size of the curved portion of the hidden loop showing out side the box meant it should have been reading about 106 to 120 amps but it wasn't.
That was when I started reasoning that some of the Amperage in the loop
must have been used up. Lately I have thrown that reasoning in the trash pile. I have not found that happening to this day at all.
So another "LOOKEY HERE" bites the dust. So I will just leave my toroid
with it's Loop disconnected and get on with reality.

Thanks And Respects,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Power source?

Wantomake,

Besides just thinking about it, I just went and disconnected the power leads from the toroid transformer altogether. Started the system again with all bulbs lit and glowing and while watching them intently i retouched the leads to the toroid transformer of and on for repeated times......did the lights brightness increase or decrease any at all?.....NOPE not a bit!

I had become suspicious a while back when looking at one of their Aluminium box units with it's amperage and voltage meters and the readings that were showing up while operating. The voltage was showing 221 v ac
but the amperage was showing only 55.0 amps. The wire size of the curved portion of the hidden loop showing out side the box meant it should have been reading about 106 to 120 amps but it wasn't.
That was when I started reasoning that some of the Amperage in the loop
must have been used up. Lately I have thrown that reasoning in the trash pile. I have not found that happening to this day at all.
So another "LOOKEY HERE" bites the dust. So I will just leave my toroid
with it's Loop disconnected and get on with reality.

Thanks And Respects,

Clarence

Clarence,
You really got my attention. No toroid and loop? So where's the power coming from? The ground grid? I thought the loop was a electron captor?

Ok. Too many questions. Sorry but I still must wait for the GDT before I can do any testing or fun like you are.

Interesting for sure,
wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence,
You really got my attention. No toroid and loop? So where's the power coming from? The ground grid? I thought the loop was a electron captor?

Ok. Too many questions. Sorry but I still must wait for the GDT before I can do any testing or fun like you are.

Interesting for sure,
wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

This past evening after making my previous post, In my mind I had a flashback to to some prior years of photos of the actual B&L Captor unit.
I was seeing way to many large connectors and twist lock connectors
where there should have only been one Large split type connector. I had never given it much attention before (this was over three years ago) but it finally intrigued me enough till i went to my computer photo gallery files
and went through the yearly files month by month until i found it in 2014 year files. The pics are thumbnail jpg as shown below so you can see what I am talking about too.
Is it possible that the Captor was NOT a loop after all? were the ends left open after all? or were the ends clamped to some of the Green, Blue, or orange wire ends? I don't know at the moment but I sure as hell am going to find out!

First I will remove the split bolt and free the two ends and see what and if
any voltage is available and record everything as I go. I will make any and all type of connections until I find out.

Also I know that the DIY steel toroid they made and used for their units
actually had TWO separate coil winds, each clearly shown one above the other. (photo included ) all of this will most likely take awhile
but in the meanwhile keep going the way you are - after all THEIR and Our energy is going in and out of the good ole EARTH.

Will be working on it!

Respectively,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Pictures

Clarence,
I can't get a lot from the pictures myself. But I'll give that a try. I've the time today while I wait on parts. I remember following the overunity website when this was a subject over there.

So will head to shop and try some loop disconnected test.

wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence,
I can't get a lot from the pictures myself. But I'll give that a try. I've the time today while I wait on parts. I remember following the overunity website when this was a subject over there.

So will head to shop and try some loop disconnected test.

wantomake

Hello, let me give you some early info for comparison.
1. loop disconnected = zero volts and zero amps.
2. loop reconnected = 106 amps. hmm?
3.loop reconnected and and alligator lead wrapped 4 turns to simulate
their toroid second layer coil = 4 volts. hmm?This suggests
that they used the first layer coil for one purpose and the second layer
coil for another purpose. will have figure that one out?
Will keep editing this post as I progress to avoid a lot of needless posting.
EDIT#1 A With the Loop ends disconnected and the toroid transformer powered I used a decent
sized alligator clipped lead between the two loop ends to act as a mini STOUGHT BAR/shunt
to see what effect that would have. The Clips would only grab a small amount of the multi stranded
#1 ought cable which inadvertently turned out to be a good thing. The more strands grabbed the higher the amp
reading - say 75 amp. The less strands grabbed the lower the amp reading - say 12 - 14 amp reading. evidently this is how they set the
available amp readin of 55 amps which they showed on the digital meter they used.
#2A At the sametime with the loop ends open I connected the neutral earth ground to one of the open ends and then connected the other open loop end to
the power strip load neutal . The Line input was connected straight to the terminal power strip line connection. with the inverter on the CFLs lite as they should - no problem.
Checked the amp reading on the usual center spot of the loop and it read the set 12 - 14 amps (stought bar in place) then I removed the the stought bar lead and the amp reading
showed only what was really being used - .7 amps instead of what was available. I used the PV/batt/inverter rig for several hours doing all this and seems to hold up fine.
will get back at it tommorrow. to try some more ideas.

Later

Clarence

[wantomake]

Same test

Yes I did try #1 #2 to get same results as you. And did try different connections with the loop. But nothing worth typing about. I'm still waiting for the GDT thru snail mail.

Wish I had more to update,
wantomake

[clarence]

Yes I did try #1 #2 to get same results as you. And did try different connections with the loop. But nothing worth typing about. I'm still waiting for the GDT thru snail mail.

Wish I had more to update,
wantomake

Wantomake,

You really can't do anything without the GDT/CAP so waiting is it!
Am working to make another of my primary only toroids to B&L specs with their type secondary. takes a while but it's getting there.The thumbnails
below are important for the info they give.
Most would say WHAT INFO? that's cause their mind and eyes don't work together.

First these are B&L units being powered. They are being powered by MAINS!
Also they ALL have a FIVE WIRE CONTINUITY! Look at the pictures.
Also a set of same three are ALWAS INPUT_ TWO FROM MAINS + ONE FROM
EARTH!
Also a same set of TWO is ALWAYS OUTPUT! Notice the word CARGA
written on paper and taped to their unit wire entrance point for these TWO same wires. CARGA means LOAD!

That's one hell of a lot of info I'll be using now to try different hookup methods.

Also they show different amperage readings at TWO locations - one INPUT
and one OUTPUT to LOAD.
Also the LOAD AMPERAGE READING tells me that the LARGE WIRE COIL around their Toroid Core is definitely NOT LOOPED. Otherwise the Current
Transducer sending its signal to the unit digital amperage reading would only read a CONSTANT AMPERAGE OF ABOUT 106.0 Amps instead of what their hand held meters are showing--O.1 amps for toroid and 22 amps for the load
they were using at that time. I say this because the current transducer
was placed on the large coil wire to show what the load was amperage wise
for any total load at any time during use of the unit.

All of this knowledge will help me to work towards perfecting what I am doing using a PV/Battery/Inverter as a power supply instead of grid mains.

Well, back to working on the toroid.

Hang in there Wantomake, your parts will come in.

Thanks for listening,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Gdt

Clarence,
Got the GDT in mail today, got it connected and the light still flashes and I found that I needed more input rods for the earth. And the voltage increased, light was full power. So I plugged the smart charger in the same receptacle, charger came on but light started flashing slowly. Also there's less drain on batteries with toroid unplugged.

I have tried the traditional circuit with GDT and .001 uf and CAN power the LED bulb plus run smart charger to keep battery bank charged. Batteries lost only a 10th of a volt (12.57 to 12.56) in one hour 20 minutes.

Now will try new setup you posted about earlier.

Hope you see something in those pics to improve upon. But I'll try some different setups and see what happens.

Having fun on nice afternoon,
wantomake
PS: Have a second toroid as well.

[clarence]

B&l toroid transformer - primary and secondary

Wantomake,


Well, back to working on the the toroid.

Wantomake,

This will be my intended outlook and direction reasoning in the revising
of one of my primary only toroid transformer.

The primary wind will still maintain it's low input amp of approx 0.30 amps.
and the secondary wind should show next to zero. The secondary will only serve as a voltage link/connection back to the primary volt/amp source.
The secondary will NOT have any inductive attribute whatsoever and the thumbnail below shows and explains why.
I believe this was the means B&L was able to tie their units to the utility grid
as a low amp circuit completion means and at the same time open the door to the vast amounts of earth energy being pumped into the whole country side as a Utility Grid. As I said the thumbnail below shows why I think like this. The pic shows three connection points One is the Blue wire that you see.. The other two are the Red/Orange open ends.
As a toroid transformer the Blue wire would have served as a connection to both the primary and the secondary (input/or output). The two orange or red
open ends would have been the circuit completion ends (input or output) .

Will know how correct all this works in the days to come.

Thanks Friend,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Testing

Clarence,
Testing different setups but still wanting more from this system.

1. Trying different size wires wrapped around side of loop to see any difference.
2. Is the amount of rods for grounding input or output cause any increase in voltage.
3. How to harness the electrons from the loop , is this possible?

The setup now has 175 amps showing on the loop, can this be just an anomaly cause the clamp meter is fooled as the wire is connected in a loop?

I may not get past some of these tests with any valuable results, but will narrow down which part/parts needs changed.

wantomake

[luc2010]

Hello
@ Clarence
@ Wantomake
@All,

Sorry, i dont understand why the secondery coil is not looped?

based on my own experiments:
i think the secondery coil is looped!!
But i am not very sure?...

if we use high inductance coil for the primary... then the output voltage geos up!!
else the input current geos up!!

well, i can charge 330 micro F 400 V to 320 v with no lenz law!!!!!! but how can we use that effect?

hope hearing from you!!

Thanks and Regards
luc2010

[fer123]

Hello to All. This video It will help to the construction of the system , did not make it yet, but many people in the comment say it work. Wilnson Roa translation.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYQEqzJmSsY