Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[BroMikey]

Next time we meet, you will realise how stupidity can affect you. As I said, I know all about you, you do not know anything about me . Yet!

Adios, soon to be f..kwit

I am not a worshiper of your peers so threats are silly. Like you.

[Dwane]

I am not a worshiper of your peers so threats are silly. Like you.

Ask yourself, "what is best served cold?

You have a good day

[clarence]

Small update

Hello BroMikey,

Just a small update of sorts.
For Quite a while now I have suspected that B&L's units (Early Models) were
all being powered by The Utility Grid in their area Known as C E M A R.
CEMAR is a SWER type utility grid One HOT line wire on each pole with the
neutral being supplied by means of the Earth/Ground .

Location did not actually play a great role in using their units. Their suggested
60 Rods and Later suggested 26 rods were only another smoke screen to keep CEMAR from looking in the right direction during the period when Cemar came to their site and performed the tests that they made.
In all of their demos they always made a great show of holding up the green ground return wire as if it were MAGIC - In reality ..... NOT SO.
A ground return Rod (ONE) is necessary for sure. Without the ONE nothing happens.

Lately I have used: 2 rods as input with 60 return - works fine!
2 rods as input with one return - works fine!
1 rod as input with one return - works fine!
Whole lot of SMOKE was blown in my opinion and results show.

In the thumbnail below you will notice a blue circled item and a black circled item.
I followed this format exactly for my last results except for the two circled Items and my results FINALLY came out as expected. The BLACK circle denotes that they used the CEMAR GRID as initial and follow through power.
Instead I used my 25 Watt PV/Batt combo as the power supply.
I made it have its own line and earth/Ground return supply same as the CEMAR SWER system.

The BLUE circle denotes the use of a Gas Discharge Tube! THAT WILL NOT WORK AT ALL!!!! A GDT USED BETWEEN A HOT AND NEUTRAL IS A SHORT CIRCUIT!!!!!
I used another type of component a .001 uf small capacitor soldered in series to the GDT to act as a MINI load to prevent a short circuit and THEN placed it as shown
in the illustration to draw in the return voltage from the ground and enable it to be used in conjunction with the high amperage toroid loop and pass on as one of the
ultimate lead wires for loads. all just as the illustration shows except for the two circled items.

In the past recent efforts I never was able to get the high amperage loop to supply any of its high amperage through the ground return loop and on to whatever loads.
The loop amperage dropped from 106.0 amps down to 103.0 amps.
The loads were one 4 watt nite light - two 13 watt CFL lights and one 100 watt CFL.
Will have more to say at a later date when I finish my 2 Inverter system.

Respectfully,

Clarence

[BroMikey]

Hey that is great news Clarence

So all I need is a few rods not 60 anymore right? So now I am
anxious to see the connection diagram exactly the way it works
the best when you do the final analysis.

We don't want to jump the gun and a that is my message to so
many frustrated people who are worried about lowly experimenters
smashing all the models at Yale.

Boy are they in for a big surprise when all of these creeping technologies
get combined into a package that is easy and unstoppable. I see this
happening on so many fronts.

This work is another excellent offering to the new generation of
youth who will run with this ball.

[fer123]

Congratulation Mr clarence, this is a moment of , good work, hope the best.

[wantomake]

Basic setup ready

Hello BroMikey,

Just a small update of sorts.
For Quite a while now I have suspected that B&L's units (Early Models) were
all being powered by The Utility Grid in their area Known as C E M A R.
CEMAR is a SWER type utility grid One HOT line wire on each pole with the
neutral being supplied by means of the Earth/Ground .

Location did not actually play a great role in using their units. Their suggested
60 Rods and Later suggested 26 rods were only another smoke screen to keep CEMAR from looking in the right direction during the period when Cemar came to their site and performed the tests that they made.
In all of their demos they always made a great show of holding up the green ground return wire as if it were MAGIC - In reality ..... NOT SO.
A ground return Rod (ONE) is necessary for sure. Without the ONE nothing happens.

Lately I have used: 2 rods as input with 60 return - works fine!
2 rods as input with one return - works fine!
1 rod as input with one return - works fine!
Whole lot of SMOKE was blown in my opinion and results show.

In the thumbnail below you will notice a blue circled item and a black circled item.
I followed this format exactly for my last results except for the two circled Items and my results FINALLY came out as expected. The BLACK circle denotes that they used the CEMAR GRID as initial and follow through power.
Instead I used my 25 Watt PV/Batt combo as the power supply.
I made it have its own line and earth/Ground return supply same as the CEMAR SWER system.

The BLUE circle denotes the use of a Gas Discharge Tube! THAT WILL NOT WORK AT ALL!!!! A GDT USED BETWEEN A HOT AND NEUTRAL IS A SHORT CIRCUIT!!!!!
I used another type of component a .001 uf small capacitor soldered in series to the GDT to act as a MINI load to prevent a short circuit and THEN placed it as shown
in the illustration to draw in the return voltage from the ground and enable it to be used in conjunction with the high amperage toroid loop and pass on as one of the
ultimate lead wires for loads. all just as the illustration shows except for the two circled items.

In the past recent efforts I never was able to get the high amperage loop to supply any of its high amperage through the ground return loop and on to whatever loads.
This time I finally succeeded.
The loop amperage dropped from 106.0 amps down to 103.0 amps.
The loads were one 4 watt nite light - two 13 watt CFL lights and one 100 watt CFL.
The amperage checked on the ground return wire BEFORE the 2 1/2 turns
around the loop and afterwards reflected the same amount of increase
so the amperage has to be coming from the looped coil just as B&L said it should do.

Will have more to say at a later date when I finish my 2 Inverter system.

Respectfully,

Clarence

Hello Clarence,
Sounds good. I still have the basic setup on my side bench which I also use solar batteries and inverter as power supply. Still have the ground grid to use also. The system is in my shop 120 feet from my house and 50 feet from nearest utility pole. I didn't use GDT at first but later tried one (same as yours) in the setup with same results.

So I'm very happy to see you figure how to get more out of the setup. Will you share here or is this something you don't want to show cause some may not be ready for this?

Either way is ok. I understand and it's good this can be used to harvest some free or kind of free energy.
wantomake

[clarence]

Hello Clarence,
Sounds good. I still have the basic setup on my side bench which I also use solar batteries and inverter as power supply. Still have the ground grid to use also. I didn't use GDT at first but later tried one (same as yours) in the setup with same results.

So I'm very happy to see you figure how to get more out of the setup.

Hello Wantomake,

Glad to hear from you and would LOVE to see you share your results also.Any and all info you can add and share with members I'm sure they would appreciate instead of just looking at my side of the story.
Let'er rip Brother!

Thanks and Respects,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Post 1310

Hey Clarence,
Thanks for the edited post 1310, that helps a lot. Hope to get everything setup and add the capacitor to the mix.

I want also to add more rods to match the rms of the inverter. If that's needed I will.

If I can show the person supporting this build that it does work, then more can be spent on rods. No not my wife lol.

But I'll take some pics and maybe a YouTube vid and post it here. So just to be clear- I will use the old original schematic for the input and return for the grid wiring. Cause the schematic shown in post 1310 only has the return drawn.

Much to get done.
Much respect and thanks,
wantomake

[wantomake]

Clarence,
Here is my setup from today. Still same amount of energy produced. Not Sure if size of capacitor (0.33 uf 350v) is the problem or just too few rods. It almost powers a 13 watt cfl. the LED bulbs just flash. Or I may have the whole setup wrong.

But this what I have so far. Had to stop we have bad storms about today.

wantomake

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[clarence]

Clarence,
Here is my setup from today.

Hello Wantomake,

I can Imagine your frustration when things don't go as planned.
Been there done that many times over.

There are only a couple things needed to get every thing going in the right direction. For one I believe you misinterpret the the Illustration shown on earlier posts.
Be that as it may, in the next few days I will take a couple of pics of
everything involved and then your problems will be gone. you can just look at the very simple setup I have made on the top of my cart and then do the same. I don't really like schematics but these pics will put you in the ball game.

Also PLEASE PLEASE TEAR your mind off the thought of doing any more ground rods ---It would just be a waste. Use one or two of what you have
for earth input and the rest of what you have for earth return.

The blinking CFL will soon be gone and easily overcome.
When you consider what you will see is working from a 25 Watt PV with a total of 8 AH Li batteries powering a 300 Watt GoPower inverter and run for a fair amount of time you will just laugh and shake you head.

So check back in a couple of days and it should be available.

Thanks & Respects,

Clarence

[wantomake]

What a relief !!!!

Thanks ole friend,
That's the best news I've read. I couldn't sleep last night with that setup going over and over in my head !!!!! Great about the ground rods too.

I'll be patient and wait for your pictures. Will be good to see what this puppy can output.

Much respect and thanks,
wantomake

[clarence]

Working build update with pics

Thanks ole friend,
That's the best news I've read. I couldn't sleep last night with that setup going over and over in my head !!!!! Great about the ground rods too.

I'll be patient and wait for your pictures. Will be good to see what this puppy can output.

Much respect and thanks,
wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

Here is the simple little build staying with the illustration from some recent posts.

The 25 Watt PV/8 AH batt/300 Watt inverter sends Neutral input into earth by ground rod - that input is retrieved by earth return rod - that ground neutral
return wire goes straight thru to become the neutral supply to the toroid transformer.
The Hot wire from the inverter just goes straight to the toroid transformer as its power supply. that same hot wire is tapped to power the GDT/.oo1 uf cap as a small LOAD which is connected back to the earth return neutral to provide an intensified path through the 1 1/2 turn around the TWO turns of the Toroid LOOP and then finally passes on to become the actual Neutral to power whatever LOADS. In this case Lights.
Everybody likes to .....SEE....... something HAPPEN. (HA HA!). So do I!!

Just a little side note: If you turn off ALL THE LIGHTS in the room and the unit is still running you will notice that the GDT has a slight COOL pink glow to it. IT SHOULD do that.

Another side note: in the last post where i said the toroid LOOP AMPERAGE
had dropped and that it should do that........that was a bummer on my part!
The drop was caused by some voltage DECREASE through the 300 Watt inverter. After all the 25 Watt PV/Batt is NOT a real GIANT voltage supply like a Utility Company would be. It does the best it can within it's limits. the whole purpose of the build is to find out find out what needs to be improved
and give some idea how to do it.

This little unit with GOOD STRONG sunlight will run the bulbs and itself for
about an hour or more. not bad for it's size.

See what you can do with it friend!

Respectfully

Clarence

[wantomake]

Headed to the shop!!!

Thanks Clarence,
Right after typing this the shop is all mine!!! I drew a rough schematic from your pics and good explanation. I don't have that GDT, will order one.

Can't wait to get started. Will post what I find and experience with this new improvement.

Thanks for sharing,
wantomake

[wantomake]

Update

Clarence and All,
Just quick update. Changed setup to match the pictures. All I need is the GDT, should be here Monday from eBay. Got a .001 uf 400 watt capacitor from local Radio Shack. Right now I have a neon lamp and 0.1 uf as a small LOAD but think that's the problem. At least I hope it is. The loop only has 56 amps and is only wound 4 times compared to your 5 1/2 times loop. Is that a factor ?

I can at this point just barely power a 100 watt bulb. A 13 watt cfl will flicker but not light up. I did connect the setup to mains 120 ac just to test if my 2k watt inverter was ok. The 100 watt bulb did get brighter with the mains power connect. I have a solar battery bank of 9 marine at 115 Ah, so it's enough amperage to power anything. I have three solar panels at 85 watts each.

Any hoo that's my findings until Monday when parts arrive,
wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence and All,
Just quick update. Changed setup to match the pictures. All I need is the GDT, should be here Monday from eBay. Got a .001 uf 400 watt capacitor from local Radio Shack. Right now I have a neon lamp and 0.1 uf as a small LOAD but think that's the problem. At least I hope it is. The loop only has 56 amps and is only wound 4 times compared to your 5 1/2 times loop. Is that a factor ?

I can at this point just barely power a 100 watt bulb. A 13 watt cfl will flicker but not light up. I did connect the setup to mains 120 ac just to test if my 2k watt inverter was ok. The 100 watt bulb did get brighter with the mains power connect. I have a solar battery bank of 9 marine at 115 Ah, so it's enough amperage to power anything. I have three solar panels at 85 watts each.

Any hoo that's my findings until Monday when parts arrive,
wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

After I read your post I went back to your previous post where you pic showed the lamp and cap and the lamp glowing.
The lamp is just and INDICATOR that the circuit is alive. What it actually does is ARC OVER at 90 volts and the DROP BACK to 60 volts continual.
That is why your voltage is so low that the CFL will only flicker.
The GDT does the opposite.It doesn't turn on until the 75 volts its rated for
and then Allows FULL voltage thru continually which is why it becomes an IMMEDIATE DEAD SHORT. The CERAMIC mini .oo1 uf cap just acts as a small LOAD and gets rid of the dead short effect.

Don't know about the low amperage on the loop though? - you might check
it's supply from the inverter.
Secretly I believe the LOOP and it's Amperage reading is another "LOOKY HERE!" distraction they built into their devise to throw CEMAR off from what they were really doing. WHAT were they REALLY doing you say?
Think on it!.......CEMAR was FLOODING the countryside with VAST amounts
of NEUTRAL voltage through their SWER system. B&L (IMHO) just found a
simple but effective way to GOBBLE it up with out going thru any METER.
THAT is the same thing we are doing here. ALL OF YOU need ton think about
it! There is no MAGIC BULLET to this.

CEMAR is being substituted with our PV panel/battery/inverter/neutral earth input/neutral earth return/SWERsystem - it's just reality looking your nose to nose.

Is it PRACTICAL and can it be useful.............Y E S !
That is why I intend to intensify the amount of neutral earth voltage
available equal to a MINI CEMAR. Do I know how to do that - yes I do.
Have spent the last few days putting together in thought mode the method and system to do just that.

Enough typing for now.

Thanks for your comments Wantomake. Hope some of this helps.

Respectfully,

Clarence