Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[luc2010]

seems not impossible task!

Hello Luc2010,

As I said in the E-mail that your tip of Africa with respect to the Global magnetic Anomaly shows heavy Blue which should mean bad for for a B&L
type unit. mine is in the minus nT value range. it shows on the US map to be about -30 nT tesla value which is still piss poor and really doesn't accomplish any thing either.
Who knows - keep after it until you find out for certainty, youve come this far.

Best wishes anyway!

@ALL

hope to have my oscillator completed by the end of week. was having problems because of cheapo trash made 555IC chips and went through several before found out the problem. have ordered the QUALITY brand and will be in Friday. seems like always something to screw up the works.
Oh well, back after it as I can.

respectfuly,

Clarence

Hello Clarence,

Well,
Thats the same blue color that we can see in B&L location? right

and thats why theiy ask for a good grounding system!!!!! BUT it works for B&L??
then why it cant work for us?....i mean, ITs not an eazy task to do as we can all see and hear!!
Yes, it make sens to me!!!

Later!

Thanks and Regards
luc2010

[luc2010]

Hello Luc2010, & ALL

I see its time to step in and clarify things about the magnetic anomaly pertaining to each one of you with respect to your particular location.
The Global color view for the magnetic characteristic with respect to the earth is strictly for the earths CORE !!!! it has NOTHING to do with
the EXTERIOR CRUST! the crust magnetic anomaly is a TOTALLY DIFFERENT
animal! there is NO COMPARISON between the two.
the photo I show below is from the SURFACE magnetic anomaly for AFRICA ! as you can plainly see there are many , many changes in the color shades just within a few miles of each location. that is why I have stated before that anyones success or lack of success with their B&L UNIT entirely depended on THEIR OWN LOCATION!

I will give the means for EACH of you to look up and find your own
nT (nano Tesla) value for your selves in just a minute. the map access I will state is very easy to use for COLOR value and access to your personal location - BUT it does NOT state any values for the colors at all. I Will include a separate color scale that you can use and it comes from a separate
site that I used in the past. FEAR NOT, its colors are EXACT as you will see.

First the photos:


Now the info to pull up the MAP - you will see on the top right of the page when it pulls up a block to type in YOUR COUNTRY or STATE and it will auto
display it for you. then you use your mouse to scroll it in or out to give a closer and better defined view of you location--all the while it will be showing the COLOR!!!!!!!!! It may take a while for you to get the hang of what to do -- BUT -- you are all grown ups so just humor yourselves awhile. after you have found your magnetic color then compare it to the chart that I use and have attached for you.


To get access to the map site type this in your search: ArcGIS-Magnetic anomaly map . after you have done all you need to with the map then refer back to the post and view the color chart.
lot to do but it will get you there.
Now maybe all of you can get on with business and be more at peace with your results - Hope So.

Respectfully,

Clarence

Hello Clarence,

pro acount is needed for that?

anyway,
i start a simple experiment using only TWO ground rods, the reading on the voltage meter is the same from inverter output? no matters how the distance betwin the two groung rods?? is that a good place?

Thanks so much!

Best Regards
luc2010

[clarence]

Hello Clarence,

pro acount is needed for that?

anyway,
i start a simple experiment using only TWO ground rods, the reading on the voltage meter is the same from inverter output? no matters how the distance betwin the two groung rods?? is that a good place?

Thanks so much!

Best Regards
luc2010

Hello luc2010,

ANY e-mail account with a normal search engine will be able to access that program!

Exactly WHERE are you located in Africa? Be specific and I will find your color and post it to you.

Stay with the three foot separation advice. the three foot statement was given by Barbosa & Leal themselves! if you are getting normal voltage
values with your inverter (size unknown ? ) with only two ground rods then
your location must be good. It took me 60 ground rods to be able to do that.

best wishes.
respectfully,


Clarence

[luc2010]

Hello Clarence and All,

i e-mail the adresse.

my inverter:
newstar 300 watt

ground rods:
1.5 m of cooper ground rod

one more problem? to protect peoples / animals?
how to avoid the careless touch and risk of hazard electric shock!! from the gound rods? in times of raining...

Thank You so much!!

Best Regards
luc2010

[clarence]

IFT and Oscillator

Hello BroMikey, & ALL,

I did finish my oscillator as the photo shows. I also proofed its ability with
the dual layer feritte square loop transforner ( both units have a blue LED I added as run indicator lights). I just quickly threw together the dual winding
to see the results of efforts at this stage - the input to the smaller coil was 6.32
square wave (seen as AC) @ 33.4 KHZ . the output from the larger of the dual
layer coils was 30 volts square wave (seen as AC) @ matching 33.4 KHZ.


I will be revamping the dual layer coils to give me a desired output of 120
volts AC for injecting into the middle IFT coil - NOTE that none of the IFT coils are in place at this time! all good things take time - working on it!


A note worthy point is the use of the 2N3055 transistor without a heat sink!
Simply did not need it at this point and I actually don't think it will need one for this low energy level that I will be injecting strictly for the sake of a high
KHZ signal int the IFT.

Has taken me many many hours of effort to get it all done this far and more to come I'm sure, but that's life - live it or get to hell out of the way.
another thing to note is the MINIMAL components used in the 555 oscillator
circuit I put together. effort paid off.

Need to take a day off for farm time ( and clear my head) so it's see you later time!

Respectfully,

Clarence

[luc2010]

Thank You So Much!!

Hello Luc2010,

Here is the color for your home area - the tip of the blue arrow shows the exact location of your home. you will notice there are no exact color codes for that area so this tells me that they could not travel into that part of Africa
for some good reason (war,crime, etc, who knows).

anyway, just looking at it and judging from the other surrounding areas I would say that your area is a darker orange to a deeper red which should be pretty good.
best I could do with whats indicated.

Regards,

Clarence

Hello Clarence,

Its Very Nice To Hear From You!!

i will try only 3 ground rods and load the circuit, if the voltage geos down then i will add more ground rods? is that correct

Again Thank You So Much!!


Best Regards
luc2010

[fer123]

Hello Mr Clarence, I am happy to hear you keep going even when you encounter same really hard obstacles in front, their is a few part of the system I'll like to see it and understand better but time will tell, wish you the best for your courage to keep it going. Don't give up.

[clarence]

Hello Mr Clarence, I am happy to hear you keep going even when you encounter same really hard obstacles in front, their is a few part of the system I'll like to see it and understand better but time will tell, wish you the best for your courage to keep it going. Don't give up.

Hello fer123,

I'm in for the long run. whatever it takes!
Thanks as always, Sir!

Respectfully,

Clarence

[luc2010]

Hello BroMikey, & ALL,

I did finish my oscillator as the photo shows. I also proofed its ability with
the dual layer feritte square loop transforner ( both units have a blue LED I added as run indicator lights). I just quickly threw together the dual winding
to see the results of efforts at this stage - the input to the smaller coil was 6.32
square wave (seen as AC) @ 33.4 KHZ . the output from the larger of the dual
layer coils was 30 volts square wave (seen as AC) @ matching 33.4 KHZ.


I will be revamping the dual layer coils to give me a desired output of 120
volts AC for injecting into the middle IFT coil - NOTE that none of the IFT coils are in place at this time! all good things take time - working on it!


A note worthy point is the use of the 2N3055 transistor without a heat sink!
Simply did not need it at this point and I actually don't think it will need one for this low energy level that I will be injecting strictly for the sake of a high
KHZ signal int the IFT.

Has taken me many many hours of effort to get it all done this far and more to come I'm sure, but that's life - live it or get to hell out of the way.
another thing to note is the MINIMAL components used in the 555 oscillator
circuit I put together. effort paid off.

Need to take a day off for farm time ( and clear my head) so it's see you later time!

Respectfully,

Clarence

Hello Clarence, and ALL

since no one trying this circuit!! i will give it a try and see what result came out of it!!


Best Regards
luc2010

[BroMikey]

[QUOTE=clarence;289759]

Hello BroMikey,

been awhile for certain!

First I have a question, and then later I will post with a reply to you concerning the question.

I have peeped at you on the Split Positive thing, not that I intend to do any of that, however I need to know if you have a battery routine with with just two batteries - one of which remains constant ( not even a hundredth volt change at all) forever. the other battery (which is not connected to the one I just mentioned) at present being actively used as a powering battery supply is also self charging itself while powering LED? thin air? backfeed? what?

Holler soon.

Regards,

Clarence

Hi Clarence

So good to see you looking over my shoulder. So far i am not
sure what I have yet. I ran tests on old batteries that seemed
sort of weak exhibiting very low capacity for their ratings and
have thrown out a set of new ones that I am trying to get the
numbers right. Well I got in a hurry and did some destructive
charging of battery 'C' and normal discharges at super high rates.

All I have are a set of known good batteries. My new tests will be
done at a lower drain, running a light and charging battery C at a
rate that battery C can process.

I have to rerun tests now that I have set some standards.

How are your batteries treating you?

[BroMikey]

Hi Clarence

It is my understanding that all batteries in the pulsed circuit are
subject to be able to collect energy back to it if tuned right.

The path of least resistance. I saw the circuit yes. Talk to me
Clarence. Let me see you in action.

That is exactly how the SG Osc was born.

[BroMikey]

[QUOTE=clarence;289766]

Hello BroMikey,

To keep from tying up your time I will make photos of the exact circuit I am using for my oscillator and showing the FWBR and Led in place - also the FLO
thru battery and its clips in place. I am going to let it run all night and see what
the batt reading is for tomorrow.

Say by noon or so tomorrow.

regards,

Clarence

I meant to ask you if your full wave bridge is HF type? Are
you connected using that big block? Diodes will act as
resistors at a HF.

[clarence]

[QUOTE=BroMikey;289778]

Hello BroMikey,

Here are the photos:


The batt that I used to power the oscillator was one that I just Grabbed when I first went to power up my Oscillator and it had just sat around and discharged by itself down to 9.2 volts and I never even checked until after I first started to use it. evidently that is why it was charging up by the 6.5 volts supply from the FWBR. It finally gets up to around 10.99 volts but that's about as high as it will go. would need a higher rectified voltage to do any better.

After I finished my reconstruction this morning and started the oscillator unit
with that same battery setup it brought it back up again to the near 1o.99 volt level but thats all.

curious I did take a 12.17 battery and put it in place of the 9.2 volt batt and
when I started the oscillator it started dropping slowly and not charging. I didn't wait for it to bottom out because I already know that it would have gone down to 10.00 to 10.99 and then just maintained it self from then own.
ALSO BRO I did use a ceramic .11 uf capacitor and was actually able to hook the positive FWBR output back to the powering battery positive post making everything looped and just needing one battery!!!!

all of this tells me that an oscillator/coil system producing high enough acv
can rectify that AC and use it to keep its powering battery charged while
driving other light components at the same time.
and all of this can be done at a very low KHZ by the oscillator but will still have to be in the KHZ range though.
Any double layer coil system when driven will always produce more acv at a lower KHZ than a higher KHZ using the same damn coil! turn the frequency up and down and measure voltage and you will find out real quick!

Well, enough of this good stuff, through it all and much learning I now finally
have my small boxed Oscillator (top off seen in the photos) and its companion signal coil output system to be used in conjunction with my Intermediate Frequency Transformer as the means to eliminate the high frequency in the TBC AND TPC 120 voltage and 240 voltage and have it available at the necessary 60 hz standard household voltage that I have been working towards all this time.

Best wishes to you on the SPLITS !

Respectively,

Clarence

[JohnStone]

Hi Bro,
Chiming in for some comment on the circuit above.
1.
Please be aware that 555 circuits are available in NMOS (200mA output) and CMOS (8mA output).

2.
Transistors own a B/E capacity and it needs to be discharged for OFF state in order to get is switching fast and cool.
A transistor is not FET and hence it does not react on voltage or charge. But electrons from this charged capacitance perform a small current up to discharge state and hence the transistor continues to conduct in a lossy manner.
At Bedini circuits the reversal of the voltage at control winding performs this discharge and the protection diade at base of transitors drags it down to minus 0.6V. Three or four diodes in series at that location will make things even better. This is another smart thing about this circuit and that is only one of those.

3
In your circuit above you do not have those Bedini goodies mentioned above. Hence you need to speed up the transistor by additional means.

A:
Usually a 100Ohm resistor is added between B and E (low wattage). It does not hurt because it experiences only .6V but helps for short circuit this parasitic capacitance if 555 output switches to OFF.

B:
Yo may add a small capacitor in parallel to the base resistor. As the base capacitance is dependent on collector voltage and bas current it is not fixed and needs to be tested out for the base leg to go not below 5V minus at switch off time.

C: There are other simple means but I will elaborate on it at request only. Such small measures often make a replication useless if components are brought to their heavy load condition.
John

[Cornboy 555]

Hi Bro,
Chiming in for some comment on the circuit above.
1.
Please be aware that 555 circuits are available in NMOS (200mA output) and CMOS (8mA output).

2.
Transistors own a B/E capacity and it needs to be discharged for OFF state in order to get is switching fast and cool.
A transistor is not FET and hence it does not react on voltage or charge. But electrons from this charged capacitance perform a small current up to discharge state and hence the transistor continues to conduct in a lossy manner.
At Bedini circuits the reversal of the voltage at control winding performs this discharge and the protection diade at base of transitors drags it down to minus 0.6V. Three or four diodes in series at that location will make things even better. This is another smart thing about this circuit and that is only one of those.

3
In your circuit above you do not have those Bedini goodies mentioned above. Hence you need to speed up the transistor by additional means.

A:
Usually a 100Ohm resistor is added between B and E (low wattage). It does not hurt because it experiences only .6V but helps for short circuit this parasitic capacitance if 555 output switches to OFF.

B:
Yo may add a small capacitor in parallel to the base resistor. As the base capacitance is dependent on collector voltage and bas current it is not fixed and needs to be tested out for the base leg to go not below 5V minus at switch off time.

C: There are other simple means but I will elaborate on it at request only. Such small measures often make a replication useless if components are brought to their heavy load condition.
John

I CAN FEEL A MONSTER coming onn!

Hello John, good to see you posting again, hope all is well with you and your family.

Warmest Regards, Cornboy.