barbosa leal devices
Hello mr Clarence, thank you for the information and the way you explain it to me, I will construct the earth ground system, after that I will make the 2 toroid, I will try to follow your instruction like 2 years old child, If you have any other advice will be welcome, for the moment Thanks.
Best wish.
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Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details
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Originally posted by fer123 View PostHello mr clarence, I have motor stator like core, and this diagram do you think can successfully be in the right way? or I have to change the diagram for good?Thanks wish you the best.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYQEqzJmSsY
I have attached the original schematic you were looking for . don't follow that HIBRIDOR thing. you will only be misled.
B&Ls motor core stator in their original device stator had 600 turns of wire which covered ALL of the stator FLAT area. I would NOT DO THAT! the toroid coils I use and had special made are specified to have the primary windings ONLY cover 160 degrees CW of the flat area and overlap themselves back and forth ONLY in that area. The remaining area I use to wrap the secondary winding of only one complete loop CCW out of the total four wraps shown.
MOST people do not realize that the single CAPTOR you are trying to build was powered by the basic TWO TOROID build that I have. that way they did'nt have to go through a second battery-inverter scenario to POWER it since it was the LARGER aprox 50KW unit for extreme larger loads. it ALSO was used in turn to power the the NEXT LARGER CAPTOR rated at100KW.
WHY DID THEY DO IT THAT WAY?????
!. first of all the SECOND IN LINE CAPTOR (which you are trying to build)
has a BASE LINE SECONDARY AMPERAGE of approx 127 AMPS!
2. secondly the THIRD IN LINE CAPTOR has a BASE LINE SECONDARY
AMPERAGE OF approx 1110 AMPS!
NOW imagine how you would power up these TWO BEASTS!!!
3. their solution to the problem was ECXELLENT!! they simply used the
SMALL BASE LINE UNIT ( MY exact build - that's why I LOVE IT) TO
POWER ALL THE REST by connectivity!
4. when I power up my unit BOTH of my toroids TOGETHER have only a
an input of 0.2 amps @ 7.5 watts !!!
GET IT!!
my advise to you would be to wrap TWO of your type cores with 360 turns (maybe more? , my primaries have that amount- depends on your core material) CW of wire covering only 160 degrees of flat area - leaving the rest of the open space on each core to place 2 1/2 wraps CCW of # 4 AWG insulated multi-stranded tinned wire and connect them in phase as you see in my build photo and get on with life.
as always - your results will point you in the right direction. LOL
hope this helps.
Respects,
ClarenceLast edited by clarence; 03-26-2016, 04:11 PM.
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Originally posted by clarence View PostHello BroMikey,
I hope your last post of this so called "neatpete" creature was meant as a
comedy show for all the members.
I was laughing all over the place at his lunacy!
there were so many mistakes in ALL of that COMEDY so called replication
I couldn't count them all!
If any one follows after that they will all be going down the same road to destruction. you should take note of the CHIEF mistake which is the "OLE HURRY UP THROW IT TOGETHER ROUTE" using a damn microwave transformer!!!
which will NEVER work successfully on this type of devise at all!
everybody always assumes that the CAPTOR unit is just a basic transformer
design which it is NOT! it is TOTALLY different from a normal transformer
and can NEVER BE CONSIDERED AS SUCH!
Oh well. still laughing!
thanks,
Clarence
thing with the Bi-Toroid stuff and when I contacted him about his failures
to follow Thane Heins protocol he went to another project.
He is just playing around like so many are.
Oh yeah and everybody gets sucked in by the "Patent Lies" and blindly
go down the wrong path using iron MOT cores.
Thanks for reiterating for the gullible blind one's who think all that
glitters must be gold.Sheep wondering aimless.
Still waitin on your next break through. I know you are wired to invent.
Michael Rowland PS I see Mr.Fer123 is following the musicLast edited by BroMikey; 09-24-2015, 07:08 AM.
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barbosa leal devices
Hello mr clarence, I have motor stator like core, and this diagram do you think can successfully be in the right way? or I have to change the diagram for good?Thanks wish you the best.
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYQEqzJmSsY
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Comedy show
Hello BroMikey,
I hope your last post of this so called "neatpete" creature was meant as a
comedy show for all the members.
I was laughing all over the place at his lunacy!
there were so many mistakes in ALL of that COMEDY so called replication
I couldn't count them all!
If any one follows after that they will all be going down the same road to destruction. you should take note of the CHIEF mistake which is the "OLE HURRY UP THROW IT TOGETHER ROUTE" using a damn microwave transformer!!!
which will NEVER work successfully on this type of devise at all!
everybody always assumes that the CAPTOR unit is just a basic transformer
design which it is NOT! it is TOTALLY different from a normal transformer
and can NEVER BE CONSIDERED AS SUCH!
Oh well. still laughing!
thanks,
Clarence
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Here is neatpete
Totally amazed at the captor.
Published on Sep 2, 2015
Here I demonstrate where the power for the transformer comes from.
While most other videos on the subject focus on the power and voltage around the device, the true cost of the power is between the battery and the inverter.
This is not an overunity device!
This is not a device that can power itself.
The only interesting thing about this device is the fact that when you attach a load to the device there is very little consumption of current measurable. This is an anomaly because the true consumption can only be measured between the battery and inverter.
Published on Sep 1, 2015
Part 1 of 2 showing a literal demo of the device.
Here I show how the device can be presented as an over unity device.
It can power a 240 volt 100 watt light bulb for only 32 milliamps and at the same time power a 12 volt battery charger as well as a 500 watt electric drill for only 34 milliamps at 220 volts from the power source.
On the face of it, the unit is indeed an amazing devise, but all is not what it seems.
See part 2 for the truth.
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRlKRGVMdCA[/VIDEO]
[VIDEO]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsnlBgGwcLk[/VIDEO]
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Thanks,
I'm off to Lowe's then. I've been concerned , need to rewire and reload.
Out to the shop when I return,
wantomake
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Correction
Originally posted by wantomake View PostHello Clarence,
I'm presently using #10 awg strand insulated on the ground grid. You say use #6 awg . Is there a big difference in output with this system? I understand larger wire allows more current flow.
Also I notice in the picture your toroid is wound 360° around it. Mine is wound only 180° primary only. Does that matter?
Sorry so many questions,
wantomake
PS:The geomagnetic map shows very high for this area.
I have to be brief time wise, don't think me rude!
1. I used # 10 -didn't work-too much resistance
2.info from B&L themselves Said use wire that would have 1.0 ohm or less measured with DVMM end to end of open array BEFORE finally connecting
array as a LOOP! the less the better! hence I used #6AWG.
3.my toroid IS wound ONLY 160 degrees! what you see is 1 mil KAPTON tape
by 1 inch wide to protect exposed core area before placing LARGE secondary windings!
bought at Amazon.com in 2014. non conductive.
4. YOU ARE EXTRA FORTUNATE ON THE GEO MAG INFO for your location! HORAY_HORAY_HORAY- sic-em!
5.toroid photos before my Kapton Tape winding!
Got to go,
GlarenceLast edited by clarence; 03-26-2016, 04:11 PM.
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wire size matters?
Hello Clarence,
I'm presently using #10 awg strand insulated on the ground grid. You say use #6 awg . Is there a big difference in output with this system? I understand larger wire allows more current flow.
Also I notice in the picture your toroid is wound 360° around it. Mine is wound only 180° primary only. Does that matter?
Sorry so many questions,
wantomake
PS:The geomagnetic map shows very high for this area.
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Recognized?
Originally posted by clarence View PostHello AGAIN DonL,
1. wire is #6AWG - multi strand tinned - insulated - from PACER GROUP,FLA.
2. YES!
3. Hang ON to Your Things! In about 2 to 3 weeks I should have my parts in
and be able to give results, info , and photos. Chill it!
respects,
Clarence
after I thought about it, I believe I recognized your handle from my past years in posting back and forth on the Don Smith thread? would that be true?
also I recently sent you a PM.
Did you receive - yes or no?
thanks and respects,
Clarence
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Originally posted by BroMikey View PostHey Clarence
I see you are back with a fervor. Good to know someone who is like
a big brother is leading the way.This site really is a good
place to share openly without all of the filthy comments. Intelligent
folks who are all grown up don't have to prove their manhood using
foolish remarks and then proceed to throw you off their board if it
looks like cool headed reasoning is prevailing.They become furious
at that point.
I see the new roll around all set for the next success story.
This is going to be a great increase in harvesting the earth currents.
There really are many ways to cook up some of that earth bound energy
and the human spirit will never give up, even in the face of being thrown
into the snake pit with vipers all around trying to correct our every move.
Fat chance, we shall prevail.
I can't wait till you get her all warmed up.
Yeah I,m looking forward to all of the efforts and results and info and photos!
I feel sure it will be positive as I said I,m going to pass it thru my present CAPTOR build to give it whatever amperage needs it may have.
lovin your posts as always!
Cheers,
Clarence
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Hang on - it"s coming!
Originally posted by dllabarre View PostThank you for your quick response.
I checked the magnetic map in my area and I'm one notch off of zero.
But I have a question. What type of wire do you use to connect your ground rods: bare copper ground wire or an insulated wire?
Are you working on a device that has promise of working for us living in non-magnetic anomaly areas? I'd be interested in working on a replication even if it's not totally complete and proven.
Thank you,
DonL
1. wire is #6AWG - multi strand tinned - insulated - from PACER GROUP,FLA.
2. YES!
3. Hang ON to Your Things! In about 2 to 3 weeks I should have my parts in
and be able to give results, info , and photos. Chill it!
respects,
Clarence
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Originally posted by clarence View Post
3.YES - this is the best thread - OU sucks!
4.unless your location has a magnetic anamoly of a HIGH Value -
don't waste your time ''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''
So my advise if you have taken ALL these things into consideration-DON'T!
Photos attached.
respectfully ,
Clarence
I see you are back with a fervor. Good to know someone who is like
a big brother is leading the way.This site really is a good
place to share openly without all of the filthy comments. Intelligent
folks who are all grown up don't have to prove their manhood using
foolish remarks and then proceed to throw you off their board if it
looks like cool headed reasoning is prevailing.They become furious
at that point.
I see the new roll around all set for the next success story.
This is going to be a great increase in harvesting the earth currents.
There really are many ways to cook up some of that earth bound energy
and the human spirit will never give up, even in the face of being thrown
into the snake pit with vipers all around trying to correct our every move.
Fat chance, we shall prevail.
I can't wait till you get her all warmed up.
Leave a comment:
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Originally posted by clarence View PostHello dllabarre,
I.NO - my current build is attached.
2.NO - I don't do you tube or any such.
3.YES - this is the best thread - OU sucks!
4.unless your location has a magnetic anamoly of a HIGH Value -
don't waste your time trying to replicate as of the present I have
60 (SIXTY) ground rods in my ground rod array and it was DAMN well
expensive and still wasn't enough to get the job done!!!!
So my advise if you have taken ALL these things into consideration-DON'T!
Photos attached.
respectfully ,
Clarence
Thank you for your quick response.
I checked the magnetic map in my area and I'm one notch off of zero.
But I have a question. What type of wire do you use to connect your ground rods: bare copper ground wire or an insulated wire?
Are you working on a device that has promise of working for us living in non-magnetic anomaly areas? I'd be interested in working on a replication even if it's not totally complete and proven.
Thank you,
DonL
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Originally posted by dllabarre View PostHi Clarence and the room.
I just found this thread and very happy I did. I've built several Barbosa/Leal replications that didn't work for what turned out to be obvious reasons after the fact.
I'm intrigued with your build found in PJKBook.
Is that still your current build?
Do you post videos on youtube or anyplace else?
Is this the best thread to follow your work or is there one on OU website?
Looking forward to working with you.
Thank you
DonL
I.NO - my current build is attached.
2.NO - I don't do you tube or any such.
3.YES - this is the best thread - OU sucks!
4.unless your location has a magnetic anamoly of a HIGH Value -
don't waste your time trying to replicate as of the present I have
60 (SIXTY) ground rods in my ground rod array and it was DAMN well
expensive and still wasn't enough to get the job done!!!!
So my advise if you have taken ALL these things into consideration-DON'T!
Photos attached.
respectfully ,
ClarenceLast edited by clarence; 03-26-2016, 04:11 PM.
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