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  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence View Post
    Hello BroMikey,

    I really like the way you cover all the in's and out's about the information you pass!

    It lets the members easily wrap their noodles around what is being put across!
    also points outs advantages and disadvantages when trying to do things!!

    NEAT BRO! really neat!
    thanks again, as Always!

    Respects,

    Clarence
    Thanks Again Clarence

    Look at this latest post from Marc B. on resonant coils like what Don
    Smith did as it relates to Tesla's tuning work. I don't know how this
    may apply to tuning other coils but it hit home for me.


    http://www.energeticforum.com/286021-post10617.html

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Good info explanation for all to understand

    Hello BroMikey,

    I really like the way you cover all the in's and out's about the information you pass!

    It lets the members easily wrap their noodles around what is being put across!
    also points outs advantages and disadvantages when trying to do things!!

    NEAT BRO! really neat!
    thanks again, as Always!

    Respects,

    Clarence

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence View Post
    Hello Bro,

    parts will be ordered 2/17 for the Fast diodes and PWM that we discussed - shipping time ?, who knows !
    may post results by 2/24? as always - depends!
    will see.

    thanks Bro,

    Respects,

    Clarence
    Hello Clarence

    I see you are getting it all tuned up and fitted with better diodes.
    Nice work, I can't wait to see your progress. That PWM is cool
    it is a switch mode device for charging batteries.

    The new battery charger and charge controllers for solar are
    everywhere, glad you could find and off the shelf unit that
    saves on power for zapping your batteries.

    Those new off the shelf chargers for charging batteries will
    step down the voltage a little so you can keep a happy battery.
    This is called a "BUCK CONVERTER". All your solar panels
    put out only 17vdc and you put two of them in series that would
    be 34vdc but on a cloudy day it might not put out enough so
    converters save the day.

    I know you are not using solar panels or scooter parts but if
    people want to find these converter they can do a search
    in the solar stuff called "CHARGE CONTROLLER" this will get
    you to where you want. Or you could search for scooter
    converters and there you will find battery charging converters
    that don't work off the AC grid tie.

    So while I know you are not connecting any solar panels up
    to your rig if people want to replicate what is coming, they
    can search in solar battery chargers or controllers.

    I knew these modules were there but could not find them
    every time I went to look because I didn't use the right
    search terms.

    "DC to DC" step down converters" let you take DC voltage
    like 80vdc and send it down lower without wasting. Another
    important detail for buying converter or inverter modules is that
    after you find where they are, make sure you buy one big enough
    so that you only use 30-40 percent of the chargers MAX
    capacity, this will give you the greatest efficiency conversion
    factor. Not to mention longevity.

    I hope this disspells any confusion about the notion that Clarence
    has now hooked up solar panels to his rig. He has not, I just
    wanted everyone to know that many of our science projects need
    circuits to help with juggling energy and the section on solar
    at the EBAY stores carry these converters.

    In your case you are not using this converter for the sun, rather
    to converter some power off your unit sending it to this
    converter to charge batteries.


    You say the TBC puts out 41vac then you will rectify to dc
    sending that to your "DC to DC" charge controller? That sounds
    like a perfect fix.

    This is a good advancement and everyone who is building
    these can easily replicate.


    Last edited by BroMikey; 02-12-2016, 07:21 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Hello Bro,

    parts will be ordered 2/17 for the Fast diodes and PWM that we discussed - shipping time ?, who knows !
    may post results by 2/24? as always - depends!
    will see.

    thanks Bro,

    Respects,

    Clarence
    Last edited by clarence; 02-09-2016, 02:45 PM. Reason: added info

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Also I am including the same diagram with description.

    There are so few parts to perform this battery charging
    function that even I can do it.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Hey Clarence

    Thanks for the update on your progress and how you are
    charging a large battery with a radiant TBC open circuit
    of course is always way high but that energy self regulates
    but if I leave my battery unattended she smokes.

    I started with this crowbar circuit that they teach in 8th grade
    electronics. I almost forgot about it. All it does is take out my
    resistor when I get to the right battery volts. No zener on this one.

    I hope you like my caveman controller.

    I hate sub miniature digital boards.


    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-30-2016, 11:07 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence View Post
    Hello BroMikey,

    Been a while for sure!

    I then hooked the output of the rectified dc 10.9 vdc
    into the batt circuit ( in the meantime it was recharged back to
    it's same previous dc voltage value) and restarted the unit again
    watching the batt voltage and run time. when the batt voltage
    dropped to 11 volts dc again I stopped the unit the second time.
    the difference in run time was about 3-4 minutes longer with the
    added rectified 10.9 vdc.
    not much - but I believe it shows that the method that I am
    after is definitely viable.

    so for now I simply need to perfect the resistor values to give a
    14.5 to 15 vdc steady rectified voltage supply and run everything
    again.

    All in all, still pushing forward! I also attach a photo to show how
    I wound all the coils I use. the pvc pipe for the wire coil is 3/4 "
    ID but the pvc pipe for the coil to wind around needs to be 1 " ID.

    Thanks for listening BRO!

    Respectfully,

    Clarence

    Wow, that is great progress MAN!!! Yes I agree and understand
    that you did some dividers and got positive results, so now you
    need a different resistor and or divider to get the voltage up.

    That is awesome progress Clarence.

    Your picture today finally made clear how you lay all of your
    coils flat having so many leads on them.

    Extended runtime hey it's gonna bee a sweet deal.


    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-28-2016, 02:39 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Info

    Hello BroMikey,

    Been a while for sure!

    I have attached a couple of photos of all the coil units STACKED as they should be.
    you should notice that the two inner red & black wires on the TESLA PANCAKE COIL and the TESLA BIFILAR COIL pass up through the center of the VERY TOP TBC coil which enables all of them to set perfectly flat on each other and get the full benefit of the magnetic flux energizing them. The underneath TBC coil center wires do not pose any problem so they run straight out underneath everything and connect as needed.

    with respect to my work on the intended battery voltage circuit using the smaller TBC coil and its output of 50 vac to accomplish this, that work was slow and back and forth at times. the first thing I found out is that using a voltage reducing method whether by my DIY or the regular voltage divider
    resistor scenario is totally undependable when applied straight to an acv
    source. ACV has so damn many direction paths going on at the same time
    it will work good for a while and then it abruptly changes back and forth through the added circuit components to a pathway that it likes better and then you are screwed.

    I finally just went ahead and rectified the voltage and THEN added the voltage divider components. I knew that DC has ONE direction and takes the path of least resistance so I figured I could deal with that a hell of a lot easier and it proved true.

    At this point I need to pass on some new information to you about rectifying
    TESLA type components - coils in particular!
    This particular TBC with its output of 50 vac when rectified by my valued high dollar high voltage high frequency Diodes properly FWBR connected
    gave an output of 92 VDC. I am sure the conventional crowd reading this are about to have s***hemorrhage. according to their old school values it should only show 70.7 . HA HA ! Tesla always gave extra.
    Oh Well.

    For the voltage divider I laid aside my DIY components and decided to use the commercial high Mega ohm high watt Ohmite brand resisters since all the other forum members would have to go that route anyway.
    after using several voltage divider calculators with their recommended resistor values the the RUN results would ALWAYS turn out a lower value DC output than expected. finally on the last run with a 10.9 vdc result I decided to go ahead and use DC system any way to see if it would possibly help in any way to battery - inverter system in operation. I used my 300 watt GoPower inverehooked to a 7ah 12v small battery powering a small CFL.
    I checked the batt voltage and noted it and then turned the unit on and watched the batt voltage and run time. when the batt voltage dropped to 11 vdc I stopped the unit. I then hooked the output of the rectified dc 10.9 vdc
    into the batt circuit ( in the meantime it was recharged back to it's same previous dc voltage value) and restarted the unit again watching the batt voltage and run time. when the batt voltage dropped to 11 volts dc again I stopped the unit the second time. the difference in run time was about 3-4 minutes longer with the added rectified 10.9 vdc.
    not much - but I believe it shows that the method that I am after is definitely viable.

    so for now I simply need to perfect the resistor values to give a 14.5 to 15 vdc steady rectified voltage supply and run everything again.

    All in all, still pushing forward! I also attach a photo to show how I wound all the coils I use. the pvc pipe for the wire coil is 3/4 " ID but the pvc pipe for the coil to wind around needs to be 1 " ID.

    Thanks for listening BRO!

    Respectfully,

    Clarence
    Last edited by clarence; 03-26-2016, 04:11 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • CANGAS
    replied
    Originally posted by clarence View Post
    Hello CANGAS,

    the answer is quite simple and comes from years of experience with all three
    mediums.

    I dealt with grounding rod systems for many years on the farm pertaining to the miles of electric fence needed to keep the cattle and especially large bulls
    contained within the multi-acre spread out pastures. I did try the Iron first and it did deteriorate a lot quicker than I thought it should and lost effectiveness.
    I also tried the aluminum rod and it didn't do as good as the plain iron. it quickly made a thick coating of oxide and lost it's effectiveness also. the cooper
    coated iron was the most effective and long lasting one out of them all and are still in service after many years of use'

    I never used the galvanized iron rod, so that's one that I don't have experience on at all.

    I personally don't like to have to use ground rods at all! to damn much effort and AND expense involved for certain and 60 of them was a GIANT pain in the butt!
    that is just another one of the reasons why I have been working within the scope of the whole unit to eliminate the need for EVERYONE of them.
    I already know the HOW and the DIRECTION and the METHOD to accomplish all of this but I live in the REAL WORLD and reality takes MY TIME which is limited the same as everyone! I have mounds of other work to do which is why you don't see many posts from me.

    I have also learned NOT to divulge everything I know and have accomplished
    because of the members on the forum who JUST CAN"T WAIT to jump on the
    toilet and drop their load! their LOAD being just what you know it is!

    not this week but maybe mid next week I hope to have a few more results to
    post and info to give out.

    Thanks for listening!

    respectfully,

    Clarence

    Many thanks for your response. You don't know how much it encourages me.

    My natural field being physical mechanisms, I quickly and easily get in over my head regarding electronic devices. I still don't even have a hazy understanding of the fundamental principle of your good work, BUT THAT DOES NOT MATTER. Results speak for themself!

    I probably read but did not remember, your explanation of different ground system materials you have used and I wanted to possibly be helpful with the little bit of knowledge I have about electrochemistry and such. But you are already more than one step ahead of me. Happily so. One of the first things to come into my mind was use of copper coated iron, and you already did that, very good.

    Very good to hear that your theoretical principle may not be bound to a ground system, at least not of the large scale used so far. You have my prayers and good wishes for your work in that direction. My own work, involving most often purely mechanical devices, has substantially been satisfactorily completed for a little while, awaiting now for assessment of world financial and political conditions to appear to provide a relatively safe window of opportunity and of course a clear signal from The Man that I have the green light to start to try to deliver it to humanity.

    News of your work has been a delight to me because there are many circumstances in which I imagine yours to be lighter (if a ground system is not essential) and therefore more convenient to carry about. I assume that you foresee your technology could possibly be portable and mobile? (Don't give away any secrets. I can subdue my curiosity.)


    Most respectfully
    CANGAS

    Leave a comment:


  • clarence
    replied
    Past experience

    Hello CANGAS,

    the answer is quite simple and comes from years of experience with all three
    mediums.

    I dealt with grounding rod systems for many years on the farm pertaining to the miles of electric fence needed to keep the cattle and especially large bulls
    contained within the multi-acre spread out pastures. I did try the Iron first and it did deteriorate a lot quicker than I thought it should and lost effectiveness.
    I also tried the aluminum rod and it didn't do as good as the plain iron. it quickly made a thick coating of oxide and lost it's effectiveness also. the cooper
    coated iron was the most effective and long lasting one out of them all and are still in service after many years of use'

    I never used the galvanized iron rod, so that's one that I don't have experience on at all.

    I personally don't like to have to use ground rods at all! to damn much effort and AND expense involved for certain and 60 of them was a GIANT pain in the butt!
    that is just another one of the reasons why I have been working within the scope of the whole unit to eliminate the need for EVERYONE of them.
    I already know the HOW and the DIRECTION and the METHOD to accomplish all of this but I live in the REAL WORLD and reality takes MY TIME which is limited the same as everyone! I have mounds of other work to do which is why you don't see many posts from me.

    I have also learned NOT to divulge everything I know and have accomplished
    because of the members on the forum who JUST CAN"T WAIT to jump on the
    toilet and drop their load! their LOAD being just what you know it is!

    not this week but maybe mid next week I hope to have a few more results to
    post and info to give out.

    Thanks for listening!

    respectfully,

    Clarence

    Leave a comment:


  • CANGAS
    replied
    Originally posted by BroMikey View Post
    Don't forget the large copper lead wire on the 60 copper rods
    when you are figuring the price tag. Better go to the bank
    or pray that your ship comes in.






















    Remind me why the ground system cannot be composed of cheaper iron or aluminum.


    Your welcome
    CANGAS

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Shelling Out the Green Stamps

    Don't forget the large copper lead wire on the 60 copper rods
    when you are figuring the price tag. Better go to the bank
    or pray that your ship comes in.






















    Leave a comment:


  • fer123
    replied
    Lot of work and time invest, congratulation. Mr clarence must invest years. I will be connected and intrigue at the same time how everything will surprise us. Thanks.

    Leave a comment:


  • BroMikey
    replied
    Originally posted by fer123 View Post
    Really good post, love every single parts on it, when yo talk about the 2 TPC induction coil, and 2 TBC the wire size is 10 AWG or 6AWG? I have question how will connected to the captor, I hope this altruist man will find the way. Best wish for you.
    I have some additional information for all Captor Builders.
    This device taps AMPS on one end and VOLTS on the other side
    contrary to what we have been taught as a good power burning
    topology.


    The actual input voltage to the coils is a steady input of
    4.17 volts to each of all the coils. the input to the large
    TPC coil is 41.7 vac + from the ZVS to each of it's two sets
    of 10 turn windings which makes it's magnetic flux pass
    4.17 vac to all of the coils that are placed near it.



    I have some pictures here for you that shows how much time
    and effort this unit has taken. I have other pictures but this is
    all you get today.

    I really love this build

    The first 3 are known as TESLA BIFILAR COILS or TBC

    The very small TBC is being used as a battery charger loop.
    If I have more time I would tell you about the special charging
    network to lower the Battery Charing small TBC voltage so
    as to regulate energy back to the source.

    That is all specialized and a completely different subject to
    tackle. But ya know me, I ain't-a-gonna let up.














    This one is TPC or TESLA PANCAKE COIL




    ALL COILS FOR STACKING
    Last edited by BroMikey; 01-17-2016, 11:37 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • fer123
    replied
    Really good post, love every single parts on it, when yo talk about the 2 TPC induction coil, and 2 TBC the wire size is 10 AWG or 6AWG? I still have the same question how will connected to the captor, I hope this altruistic man will find the way. Best wish for you.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by fer123; 01-17-2016, 11:23 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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