Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[wantomake]

GDT size?

Clarence,
These are the numbers on the GDT package.
Y08SV-272B
Sankosha
Qty 10

I think these are wrong voltage, size or something. I got a drop cord down to the shop. Plugged it into a GFCI receptacle and it (growled) tripped the reset button. Ok. Makes sense. So plugged in to a non GFCI receptacle and no problems. The power stops at the GDT. I carefully touch a 120 ac neon lamp across the GDT block connections and the load gets voltage. A lot of voltage. The neon almost melts!!!!! That's a direct short from hot to ground I know, but it's not that much voltage usually.

But what do you think. Are these the wrong size GDT?

I have more questions but those can wait.
wantomake
Edit: Datasheet says 250 volt ac rating. So I need correct size.

[wantomake]

Part "B" of last post

Wantomake,

Loving hearing from you. Like the coffee part too, Just had mine - feel better.
I'll try to answer a few questions I think I see in your posts.
No there is no input toground. Here's What the GDT does: Once its break over Voltage
is reached and passed (90 volts in this case)Then regardless of the input voltage the
voltage that it will allow thru DROPS to or around 60 volts. The OTHER voltage that is needed comes from the ground via the ground rod grid line (GREEN LINE) . In this case that voltage is supplied by the Utility Company through it's own grounding system. Loving It ! So did B&L in Brazil !
Instead of the Utility Company supplying ALL the AMPERAGE the CAPTOR ALSO supplies
AMPERAGE by INDUCTING it INTO the # 6 AWG wire with it's turn and a half around the LOOP COIL.

The Smart Charger and Inverter are not in the picture because I am strictly using
Utility Company Power in the case. NO batteries, No Inverter, No chargers of any kind.

Do you have Utility power at your shop or No ?
If you use an inverter that has a built in GFCI as a plug in it may auto kick off when you switch it on. I purposely used the Go Power 300 watt inverter because it did not have
a GFCI plug in - It would just growl like a mad dog and maybe shut of or not.
You can also just build whats in the photo and the take it up to you house if you have any ground rods there.

Any way, what ever route you go give me a holler back when you can.
My new monthly utility bill account starts today so I am going to use it to run my frig and microwave for all of this new time and then compare bill time- use hours and cost
for this period. It should for sure be less. I will post all that info here on the forum when it comes in.

Enough talk.

Thanks J ,

Clarence

Clarence,
Ok, you're using mains power. The shop is solar only. I can run a long drop cord to get mains. But I did get part way on the reassembly before leaving this morning. My inverter doesn't have GFCI as it's not growled at me any. But I did purchase a smaller inverter 750 watts pure sine wave I believe.

I'll take this tablet to refer to your picture I downloaded.

Will post results.
wantomake

[digits10]

Cool

For this new design, how many ground rods are needed?

[clarence]

Wantomake,

Loving hearing from you. Like the coffee part too, Just had mine - feel better.
I'll try to answer a few questions I think I see in your posts.
No there is no input toground. Here's What the GDT does: Once its break over Voltage
is reached and passed (90 volts in this case)Then regardless of the input voltage the
voltage that it will allow thru DROPS to or around 60 volts. The OTHER voltage that is needed comes from the ground via the ground rod grid line (GREEN LINE) . In this case that voltage is supplied by the Utility Company through it's own grounding system. Loving It ! So did B&L in Brazil !
Instead of the Utility Company supplying ALL the AMPERAGE the CAPTOR ALSO supplies
AMPERAGE by INDUCTING it INTO the # 6 AWG wire with it's turn and a half around the LOOP COIL.

The Smart Charger and Inverter are not in the picture because I am strictly using
Utility Company Power in the case. NO batteries, No Inverter, No chargers of any kind.

Do you have Utility power at your shop or No ?
If you use an inverter that has a built in GFCI as a plug in it may auto kick off when you switch it on. I purposely used the Go Power 300 watt inverter because it did not have
a GFCI plug in - It would just growl like a mad dog and maybe shut of or not.
You can also just build whats in the photo and the take it up to you house if you have any ground rods there.

Any way, what ever route you go give me a holler back when you can.
My new monthly utility bill account starts today so I am going to use it to run my frig and microwave for all of this new time and then compare bill time- use hours and cost
for this period. It should for sure be less. I will post all that info here on the forum when it comes in.

Enough talk.

Thanks J ,

Clarence

[wantomake]

Coffee is slow working.

Clarence,
My coffee is slow this morning.

So your smart charger and inverter are out of picture? I assume.

And there is no input to ground grid. That I can see. Only the big green return from ground grid.

I WILL post results after I get down to the shop and connect everything.

wantomake
EDIT: After I have coffee !!!!!

[wantomake]

Reverse polarity

Clarence,
I said if I was proven wrong, then I'd reassemble the setup.

But if this is same thing just connected with reverse polarity, I will try anyway.

wantomake

EDIT: I do see the GDT there, so no direct connection from the hot side to the green return. Nor do I see a input to the ground.

[clarence]

Photo and connections

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

Wantomake,

Here is the Photo and the connections shown in it.
Holler back when you can or want.

Respectfully,

Clarence

[clarence]

Wantomake,

After doing multiple type connections and several additional ground rod input and output
attempts I found that all of this was as useless as hell. The basic circuit is Valid except
for TWO connection FLAWS in the Ariovaldo schematic. It shows the Black hot lead going to the GDT -Then The toroid - then the out put terminal. WRONG!!!! The Hot lead ONLY goes to the toroid and the output terminal block- nowhere else.

It is the NEUTRAL line that goes to the Toroid AND THEN ALSO goes to the GDT.

The GDT MAKES the Green ground rod return line serve as the RETURN lead.

J , Here are the High points to consider:#! This B&L unit actually DOES work.
#2 It is NOT dependent on Location.
#3 It is NOT dependent on magnetic anomaly.
#4 It is NOT dependent on a SWER location.
#5 It CAN be used on a two wire location.
( That I am doing right NOW )
#6 It can be used on on a battery/inverter
system. ( it will need a HIGH Amp Hour
Battery Bank Plus a Smart Charger - the
Smart charger CAN be powered by the
Captor also - am doing that as I speak.)
You definitely need to reassemble your unit . Forget about testing - Just use it.
You will need to use some Kill-A-Watt meter on the AC in put to show the difference in Amps in versus amps out through the Captor loop or people will just still think it's only a regular
AC circuit . Use an AC amp Clamp meter on the Green wire ground return line also. Then compare the difference in amps in and amps out. Then tell me what you think.
Tomorrow I will attach the new Photos of my unit in operation and show all the new connections.
Too late to get it done this PM.
EDIT:
Late this PM I did use it to run my Microwave - The Kill-A-Watt for operating everything showed 11 amps .
The Fluke Clamp meter on the Green Ground Return # 6 AWG wire showed 17 amps .
So that means the Captor FURNISHED 6 AMPS!

Clarence

[clarence]

Wantomake,

Since the voltage is the same evidently the Captor can't get anything done.
Thought about the ground rods early this week. Been in the ground for close to 4 years
so have no idea of what shape they are in- corrosion or deterioration or whatever.
Late this week I will get two new single rods to use one for input and one for return.
Will see what happens then.

Clarence

[clarence]

Done

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

Wantomake,

I disconnected the black hot lead at the small terminal block and disconnected the neutral to the toroid - this killed the Captor and Isolated
the green ground return straight thru to the the bulb receceptace like you wanted.

Checked the voltage at the terminal block before the receptacle and it read
44 volts ac - Same as before - not enough to light anything.

What do you think?

Clarence

[clarence]

Will do

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

Wantomake,

Yes Sir - will do.

Will post back later this PM.

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake ,

Here they are - Hope it helps.

Clarence

Clarence,
Yes I see, now try this if you don't mind.

In picture #5 , disconnect the large green wire in the upper left corner on that smaller terminal block, I assume that is the return from the ground grid, and connect it to the neutral on the terminal block for the lights you have there just below it.

See if it's not the same voltage, and the lights will light up? Bypass the loop altogether. Or turn off the coil inside the loop.

This is how I found out if the coil/loop captor combo was extracting anything at all from the ground grid. If there's a difference in the voltage/amps then the coil/loop captor is pulling or extracting extra power from the ground grid.

Let me know. If I'm wrong I'll assemble the setup today and keep testing.

wantomake

[clarence]

Here they are

Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

· Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

· The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake

Wantomake ,

Here they are - Hope it helps.

Clarence

[wantomake]

Pictures and words

Clarence,
A picture is worth a thousand words.

Thanks ole friend,
wantomake

[clarence]

Help coming brother

Clarence,
Could you draw a rough schematic to aid here. Cause I've tried dozens of different connections and I've totally disassemble that setup.

· Is the green #6 awg connected just to the captor?

· The neutral is connected to three input rods, is that not still just "fooling the meter" thing?

I'm sorry to be confused, but I need a schematic or a brain,

wantomake

Hello Wantomake,

Give me about 45 minutes or so and I will take some section by section photos of the unit with the bulbs now burning . I took you advice and did the SWER thing.

The photos are better than a schematic and you look at and see what goes
where!

I'm on it!

Clarence