Schematic
For those of us who have spent a career thinking graphically, here is a simple diagram of what I think Clarence's pictures show. Please advise if there is an error and I will redo it.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details
Collapse
X
-
Thanks
Originally posted by BroMikey View PostHey Clarence
This statement will be attacked by critics thinking you mean 75%
of your power was coming from the mains off the grid. So please
let us all know what MAINS that 75% of the power is coming
from. Plz clarify that the mains you referred to have nothing to
do with the power company mains.
Possible change your wording to say "Power Bus" a separate designation
other than "Supply Line Mains", terms power companies use to talk
about THEIR grid.
Your mains and THEIR mains are not the same thing to you but others
may become confused.
Just watching your back.
PS The above statement could be easily misinterpreted and get
people thinking that your calculations show that you made a mistake
about getting the energy from the environment. Something that has
already happened once before.
Everyone knows that your experiment derives energy from the ground
rods so it looks like you might be saying that only 25%..................?
Thank you for your hard work of love and support to the sheepeople.
Thanks for the heads up!
Yeah, the only thing the Utility grid powers is the Two toroids, and that only amounts to .07 Amps. Every thing else does come from the ground.
After all , that's what their whole devise is all about and how they managed to get it done.
Hows's things going on your end? I have looked in at times on you work and photos . All of that seems Busy Busy Busy!
There has been a lot of posts and look ins from many members this last week ,That's for sure.
Thanks again for the advice BRO!
That I will keep in front of my noodle for certain!
Best wishes on your end BRO!
Clarence
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by clarence View Post
I spent time doing the math and it seems that for the said 25 amp load
total 75% comes through the mains Line supply - the OTHER 25% comes THROUGH THE GROUND RETURN.
This statement will be attacked by critics thinking you mean 75%
of your power was coming from the mains off the grid. So please
let us all know what MAINS that 75% of the power is coming
from. Plz clarify that the mains you referred to have nothing to
do with the power company mains.
Possible change your wording to say "Power Bus" a separate designation
other than "Supply Line Mains", terms power companies use to talk
about THEIR grid.
Your mains and THEIR mains are not the same thing to you but others
may become confused.
Just watching your back.
PS The above statement could be easily misinterpreted and get
people thinking that your calculations show that you made a mistake
about getting the energy from the environment. Something that has
already happened once before.
Everyone knows that your experiment derives energy from the ground
rods so it looks like you might be saying that only 25%..................?
Thank you for your hard work of love and support to the sheepeople.Last edited by BroMikey; 08-10-2017, 07:04 PM.
Leave a comment:
-
Goal
Originally posted by digits10 View PostClarence,
Thanks for the reply. I decided to pick up a hammer drill attachment - hopefully that will make the ground rod project easier!
You gonna fire up your inverter & battery bank to see what happens? I'm still probably 2 weeks out to get to that point.
wantomake
Leave a comment:
-
Next
Clarence,
Thanks for the reply. I decided to pick up a hammer drill attachment - hopefully that will make the ground rod project easier!
You gonna fire up your inverter & battery bank to see what happens? I'm still probably 2 weeks out to get to that point.
Leave a comment:
-
Size of inverter counts
Originally posted by digits10 View PostFrom this, it sounds like much less net power would be available when using a battery/inverter setup not connected to the grid?
Its the size of the inverter that counts,
AND you have to bear in mind that the current/amperage being consumed is not really sensed by the inverter just like the same thing that happens with a mains system.
The MOST important thing for a battery Inverter system would be whether or not it can pull in enough energy to power a smart charger and keep its batteries at peak voltage.
Best to you Sir!
Clarence
Leave a comment:
-
On power inverter
Originally posted by clarence View PostCadman,
A 1 amp fuse on the neutral supply to the Toroids works without Blowing.
The fuse for the Line (HOT) leg that feeds the Toroids AND THEN CONTINUES ON as a LINE supply for loads is a MIXED ball game.
For a 25 amp TOTAL load it requires a 20 amp fuse and it will heat a little but NOT blow.
I spent time doing the math and it seems that for the said 25 amp load total
75% comes through the mains Line supply - the OTHER 25% comes THROUGH THE GROUND RETURN.
That's why a clamp meter would show the total 25 amps for the load.
It does NOT differentiate between the two sources but only shows the sum total for the load it is measuring.
Whether or not it makes sense - that is what is happening.
Best of the day to you sir!
Clarence
From this, it sounds like much less net power would be available when using a battery/inverter setup not connected to the grid?
Leave a comment:
-
Voltage drop
Originally posted by wantomake View PostClarence,
You posted the rods are 3 feet apart and minimum of 26 rods.
So 26 rods @ 3 ft is 78 feet right. I don't understand your math. But I'm enjoying football game and some brewskys. Will look at it tomorrow.
wantomake
I did some research on voltage drop.
The thumbnail shows their main comment from the NEC - National Electric Company .
Seems like for the series parallel LOADS like I am doing (and yourself)
that the EXPECTED voltage drop should be about 3% and up to 8% in some cases.
They also stated that for the couple of front loads VS the rest of the loads that using a larger circuit WIRE SIZE for these up front loads HELPS to MINIMIZE the expected voltage drop to the around 3% range, the wire size to the follow on loads ca be at the smaller normal wire size and still keep within the 3%.
In a nut shell- when a person would use two 100 foot lite weight extension cords to an outbuilding light and then switch on the light it would barely glow.
Then when they bought a heavy duty extension cord and used it as the FIRST extension cord to power the light and switched on the light it was as bright as expected. The ohm resistance in the first configuration created
the voltage drop and excessive current draw.
In my case I need to upgrade the wire size of the red wire from the toroid connection to the output terminal from # 10 AWG to #6 AWG and make it MATCH the Ground return wire size all the way to the load terminal.
This should help me to have less current draw and power MORE loads at the same time.
Will see!
ClarenceAttached Files
Leave a comment:
-
Fuse results
Originally posted by Cadman View PostPut a couple of 1A fuses in the wires of the cord from the KAW meter. Then pull 27A current out to run your appliances.
If the fuses don't blow, that should put that argument to rest.
A 1 amp fuse on the neutral supply to the Toroids works without Blowing.
The fuse for the Line (HOT) leg that feeds the Toroids AND THEN CONTINUES ON as a LINE supply for loads is a MIXED ball game.
For a 25 amp TOTAL load it requires a 20 amp fuse and it will heat a little but NOT blow.
I spent time doing the math and it seems that for the said 25 amp load total
75% comes through the mains Line supply - the OTHER 25% comes THROUGH THE GROUND RETURN.
That's why a clamp meter would show the total 25 amps for the load.
It does NOT differentiate between the two sources but only shows the sum total for the load it is measuring.
Whether or not it makes sense - that is what is happening.
Best of the day to you sir!
Clarence
Leave a comment:
-
Just look closer
Originally posted by FRANKLIN View PostYes I agree.
maybe somebody could write a list of the materials and the summary of the steps to build this one?
I see the two torids are connected to the positive wire from the energy from the house?
and the blue wire is the closed buckle?
also I see the blue wire has 15 windings around the toroid but are in opposite direction?
what I dId not understand is the withe pipe, it is being used just to keep in place the two toroids?
hope you can answer me
it is a success
FRANKLIN
First off All toroid transformers have TWO LEADS . Each one of them has a BLACK and a WHITE lead.
The BLACK Leads go to the HOT WIRE input.
The WHITE LEADS go to the NEUTRAL WIRE input.
Second - I have no idea of what you mean by a BUCKLE.
The CORRECT word for this devise is CLOSED LOOP.
Third - The blue wire has ONLY 14 wraps (turns).
The wraps ARE OPPOSITE each other with respect to each toroid transformer.
Fourth - The PVC pipe is a CRADLE from other years of build and I just used it to keep the two toroids JAMMED TOGETHER and not roll around or fall all over the place. The two toroids have to be opposed to each other AND TIGHT AGAINST EACH OTHER.
Fifth - I used 25 feet of the BLUE wire # 12 AWG tinned multi stranded wire.
Best, Clarence
Leave a comment:
-
I USED THE CIRCUMFERENCE FORMULA - 3.14 x 26
Originally posted by wantomake View PostClarence,
You posted the rods are 3 feet apart and minimum of 26 rods.
So 26 rods @ 3 ft is 78 feet right. I don't understand your math. But I'm enjoying football game and some brewskys. Will look at it tomorrow.
wantomake
Wantomake ,
Its best to use the formula for the circumference of a circle which is 3.14 times 26 (diameter) .
Instead of cutting the # 6 AWG wire or trying to thread all the ground rod clamps onto the wire and chasing them along as you go - put all the rods in the ground first. Start with the one that is going to have the feed line into shop or house and strip a 2 inch space on the end - clamp it tight and go to the next rod mark where the wire meets that rod and remove another 2 inch space of insulation the make the space of wire into a U bend and poke it into the clamp on the rod and tighten the bolt on the clamp and move on -
doing them all in the same manner!
Believe me you will need all of the 81 to 82 feet PLUS the 15 feet for the lead in connection.
BEEN THERE DONE THAt!
I like the brewskys but my only game is life.
Later,
Clarence
Leave a comment:
-
????
Originally posted by clarence View PostWantomake,
26 feet X 3.14 = 81,64 feet plus your 15 foot lead in=96.64 feet you will need.
EDIT: DAMN were on page 54 - OMG. that was fast!
Later
Clarence
You posted the rods are 3 feet apart and minimum of 26 rods.
So 26 rods @ 3 ft is 78 feet right. I don't understand your math. But I'm enjoying football game and some brewskys. Will look at it tomorrow.
wantomake
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by clarence View PostWantomake ,
Marvelous Ole Friend- just marvelous. when you get the chance you might give the directions on how you did it to the others.
I know they will be on pins and needles.
EDIT : IMHOP the extra amperage on the inverter was because the battery/inverter was acting as its own power company.
Bless You J
Clarence
My inverter is 2k watt with marine battery bank.
The directions is: I unplugged from mains power then turned and plugged into inverter. This inverter does shut off if a short or overload is present.
But like I posted- no improvement. I've got to put a descent ground grid in the correct configuration.
wantomake
Leave a comment:
-
I agree
Originally posted by clarence View PostWantomake ,
Marvelous Ole Friend- just marvelous. when you get the chance you might give the directions on how you did it to the others.
I know they will be on pins and needles.
EDIT : IMHOP the extra amperage on the inverter was because the battery/inverter was acting as its own power company.
Bless You J
Clarence
maybe somebody could write a list of the materials and the summary of the steps to build this one?
I see the two torids are connected to the positive wire from the energy from the house?
and the blue wire is the closed buckle?
also I see the blue wire has 15 windings around the toroid but are in opposite direction?
what I dId not understand is the withe pipe, it is being used just to keep in place the two toroids?
hope you can answer me
it is a success
FRANKLIN
Leave a comment:
-
Question
Originally posted by wantomake View PostTo All,
I did try my inverter/battery setup to satisfy curiosity. It powered everything but it seemed to pull a few tenths more amperage from the inverter.
No smoke and nothing fried,
wantomake
What size inverter and does it have a GFCI plug in or no?
Clarence
Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: