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Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details
I finally took some time to just read & think through the patents. I'm reading the translated ones. In patent ... 4042, a couple things stand out to me. First, the details of the earth ground aren't mentioned. (Identified as 5 in the drawings.) Second, in Fig. 5, there are two drawings. I can see by reviewing the 2nd one how it could appear to be a utility ground loop & the more ground rods (5) the better connection between loop (4) hot and the 3.2 negative side/neutral side. The same logic applies to Fig. 6 2nd diagram.
For the 1st drawing in each (figure 5, 6), I don't really understand why they have the 3.1 (hot) connected to the loop (4), because in those, it looks like a regular circuit since source + and source - go straight to the load. I'll test these setups and post my results. If anyone has insights, feel free. I'm sort of starting from scratch, but with a 30 ground rod field in what appears to be a high magnetic zone (depends on which satellite image I use), I figure I'll give it a shot.
From the testing I did yesterday, it's very obvious that it is super easy to fool the kill-a-watt power meters by simply not running the path to ground/neutral back through them.
I finally took some time to just read & think through the patents. I'm reading the translated ones. In patent ... 4042, a couple things stand out to me. First, the details of the earth ground aren't mentioned. (Identified as 5 in the drawings.) Second, in Fig. 5, there are two drawings. I can see by reviewing the 2nd one how it could appear to be a utility ground loop & the more ground rods (5) the better connection between loop (4) hot and the 3.2 negative side/neutral side. The same logic applies to Fig. 6 2nd diagram.
For the 1st drawing in each (figure 5, 6), I don't really understand why they have the 3.1 (hot) connected to the loop (4), because in those, it looks like a regular circuit since source + and source - go straight to the load. I'll test these setups and post my results. If anyone has insights, feel free. I'm sort of starting from scratch, but with a 30 ground rod field in what appears to be a high magnetic zone (depends on which satellite image I use), I figure I'll give it a shot.
From the testing I did yesterday, it's very obvious that it is super easy to fool the kill-a-watt power meters by simply not running the path to ground/neutral back through them.
Where I can find the translated patents into English ?
gnd/captor loop voltage: 1.5v AC
ground wire: 1.6amp
captor loop: 60+ amps, my meter quits at 100, and it hit that - I only tested for a few seconds so as not to burn up the captor loop wire - it gets hot
Mains hot/neutral: 18 amps on the hot side (powering the transformers)
I have an electric drill hooked up as the load - it didn't do anything with this arrangement.
-----------------------------
From the patent, Fig. 5 #1 schematic:
Gnd-earth line: ~2amps
Load/output - the electric drill ran full speed
Utility hot/neutral: ~17amps (at 115v AC)
Captor/loop: 100+ amps & got hot - again only tested a few seconds
I had my volt meter connected to the hot & neutral of the load/output, and it registered around 3 volts, although the drill was running fast, so it must have been ~115volts or so AC.
I didn't try the single transformer setup in Fig. 6 yet - however, neither one of these used a "small" amount of current to power the loop.
A historical account of Clarence’s replication of the B&L devices.pdf
Hi everyone - Let me start with this:
POST #1548 A pot of gold --hopefully:
THE WHOLE SOB DOES WHAT IT WAS SAID IT COULD DO!
I have Had it pulling energy from the ground up tp 9.8AMPS.
all of this while the KAW meter only shows 0.07 amps supplied from the mains and at 5.4 watts.
At first I thought it was a faulty KAW so I dug out the others and tried Four more of them - they all read the same.
I have run a floor fan, my microwave, my smart charger charging my battery banks, all at the same time - still NO CHANGE ON THE INPUT FROM THE MAINs- 0.07 amps at 5.4 watts.
I was just standing there dumbfounded.
All this time the # 12 wraps on the toroid only showed .5 amps with never changing!.
The following is a quote from a short 10 page PDF document I put together called 'A historical account of Clarence’s replication of the B&L devices.pdf'
Mains Performance:
#1549 08-07-2017, 11:34 PM - ‘18.8 amps out for .07 amps in is quite an increase!’
#1551 08-08-2017, 12:55 AM - ‘loaded my setup with loads equaling 26 + amps on a wall plug outlet only rated for 20 amps MAX - no breaker trip’
#1746 10-21-2017, 10:05 PM - ‘I have put up to 37 AMP LOAD on a 20 amp wall socket for the unit I am still using DAILY. The watt reading shown on the KAW meter was ALWAYS very low. Be it Known AS LUC said that even the MINIMAL system Resistance WILL drop the system voltage as more loads are added.’
Shouldn't we all be retracing Clarence's steps from HERE?
I believe the PDF is a must for anyone looking into the Clarence replication.
Not only will it serve as a map of this whole thread, it will also allow you to see what each step made by Clarence was for and the progress made.
Judging character is not a measure of anyone's claims. This man, regardless of his ways and attitudes has labored for years towards this single goal. Even in his old age was undoubtedly a very capable man in all he did.
Clarence may have been fooled by B&L for 2 years but he was meticulous and adamant to get there. He may have done just what he set out to do in the end!
So the way I see it, the claim still stands as stated above and it is very clear to me.
Download the pdf below and let me know what you think:
Oh! and have a GREAT day!
I realized it.
I spent the better part of this summer (24/7) reading DS and B&L threads here and at OU, so I became very familiar with his posts, his work and personality, but I never had any other contact with him obviously.
I would love for everyone that had any sort of success with his replication to come forward and post as much as they can with photos or any thing that might help newcomers!
I feel that new blood should pick up where he left off.
I feel that the smoke has to be cleared completely.
As Clarence said... time should NOT be wasted
...so please help others pick up and not waste their time in the maze.
I hope that my previous post will serve as a Clarence Episode II.
My condolences to all who knew him and to his family.
He certainly was a special kind of person.
The mystery with Clarence's build boils down ALSO to the following 2 schematics.
Clarence B&L Schematic #1491 - Ariovaldo - Fool the meter layout
vs
Clarence B&L Latest Schematics 4of4 #1788 - sch2
Why did Clarence call the first one as clearly being a 'Fool the meter layout', but with the second one he was adamant that it was NOT? What's up with that? Was he trying to get US to waste our time? Was he pure and simple a malicious deceiver?
PS. If any veteran here wants to point out corrections or omissions please do so.
Current setup for 120 Vac. using 5 watts input from utility, (0.04 amps) and getting 2000 watts output, (24.5 amps) from the device, then the input plug circuit breaker trips open. To go over +20 amps output will need a higher rated circuit breaker.
What this tells me simply is that the a ground loop was formed, the earth acted as a neutral wire back to the utility neutral/ground and the circuit was completed. The KWM was fooled, but the 20A breaker was not fooled.
#2 CLARENCE #1746 10-21-2017, 10:05 PM
I have put up to 37 AMP LOAD on a 20 amp wall
socket for the unit I am still using DAILY. The watt reading shown on the KAW meter
was ALWAYS very low.
VRAND says the breaker trips. Clarence says, breaker will not trip!
Clarence though never said anything more to clarify what load this was and how it was calculated/measured.
To Clarence's defense, this was not his first rodeo on maximizing the loads:
#1549 08-07-2017, 11:34 PM - ‘18.8 amps out for .07 amps in is quite an increase!’
#1551 08-08-2017, 12:55 AM - ‘loaded my setup with loads equaling 26 + amps on a
wall plug outlet only rated for 20 amps MAX - no breaker trip’
#1559 08-08-2017, 06:41 AM 'this thing will blow your mind away! I had even considered going to my sons shop and dragging his small AC welder over to my house and adding it to the loads I was running. I wanted to get to 30 amps or more to push the limit but I only reached 26 + amps from the Ground.'
What is going on here?
The only thing that Clarence had, that noone else had were the 60 grounding rods.
#1584 08-09-2017, 06:37 PM
My ground grid is only 4 grounding rods which I'm hoping is the problem. In the past(as a test) I've used 14" galvanised nails to add to the grid (with alligator leads) to see if energy increases with more rods. Well it does add more energy as I added more nails.
So my ole friend help me out here. Should I add more grounding rods to my grid? That's the only difference in our setups. I remember you had 60 or so rods. Are you using that many now?
#1585 08-09-2017, 08:20 PM
Yes, that probably is the problem ole friend. After all this is an energy from the ground devise.
Also, I am using the 60 ground rods.
Here is an important note for all members , ... Barbosa and Cleriston Leal ... about the ground rods ... answered by sayingthe the minimum shoudbe somewhere around 26 rods
What is certain is that Clarence was using 60 rods although they may not all be necessary in other regions, because his ground was kind of a swamp area. Is this it? Is this why he was seeing more amps (37A) than the 20A coming through his breaker? Is this why his breaker wasn't tripping?
That is almost 2x the power, even though it did involve a fool the meter routine and I think he knew this but could not avoid it as can be deduced from the following:
#1570 08-08-2017, 06:43 PM
First, it is an (Almost) exact duplicate of Ariovaldo's schematic. I even followed the color code on the wires as close as possible.
Second, most people would just say that's only a damn ground loop to avoid the meter. In a way it is and in a way it ISN"T.
...Any way, each member can look at it the way they want and make their own decision.
Clarence in #1491 07-25-2017, 11:33 AM called the Ariovaldo schematic 'Basically a Fool the Meter layout'. Here in #1570, he is calling his new setup with dual toroids an exact DUPLICATE ALMOST!
He basically admits that it does involve a 'fool the meter routine', but he sees a PLUS in the whole affair.
Then he comes out with something like this:
#1610 08-10-2017, 11:07 PM
Yeah, the only thing the Utility grid powers is the Two toroids, and that only amounts to .07 Amps. Every thing else does come from the ground.
#1728 10-20-2017, 04:25 AM
The load Amperage comes via ground - It is NOT provided by the
HOT connection through the 20 amp rated wall socket - that is why
HIGH AMP loads can be achieved WITHOUT going through the Mains
METER.
The above statements may not be 100% correct, and it may have been the way HE looked at it. On the other hand, could it be that power was flowing IN REVERSE, from the ground into the circuit?
There may be a lot of truth in his statements, but one would need to start with the 26 ground rods FIRST, before one can find out.
I hope this will be a true help to someone. I certainly do not have the ground space for something like this, but many of you may do.
So good luck and please let me know your findings.
Hi wantomake,
Yes, the GDT is there, now shown clearer in the 6 photos I just uploaded.
The design is basically what Clarence showed back on Post #1570 and 1581 (thanks again Clarence!)
Its really a very simple device, compared to what I have been working on for the last several decades. That is what got me so interested in the first place.
When the local utility turned off the power for 13 hrs and 1500 homes were in the dark until midnight. The next day I went searching this forum last August 23rd. I discovered Clarence found the solution to tapping the unlimited electricity in the Earth on August 8th! The coincidence of needing a solution to local utility outages due to the 90 year old electrical grid needing maintenance, and finding Clarence's solution was unbelievable!
After viewing Clarence photos and ordering the parts, it was a snap to put together.
- Next step was the connection to the Earth ground to the device. See upper left corner of photos with #6 awg wiring to terminal block. Already had existing 8 ft ground rod (earlier project) so tapped into that. Turned it on and it worked to light up a 68 watt light bulb with 4 watts input!
That one ground rod was not enough to power larger loads though. So off to find existing grounded sources, as I do not have time to driving 26 rods into the Earth just yet.
- Next, tapped to existing buried steel posts structure and lawn water pipe system and bingo, got really good results.
Let me know where you are having trouble and maybe I can help.
Cheers
HI
what I see here in this description. this is a succesful replication from Vrand. I think we should try to replicate it in this way
what do you think
Early this AM (bout 2 AM) I simply unplugged my system from the AC wall plug
and plugged it into my inverter (3000 watt aims)- Its Smart charger was already connected to the battery/capacitor bank so i plugged it in as a load
on the setup.
Turned the inverter on and it started same as it did on AC. It keeps the battery level constant and runs light loads. It's been running for nine hours now so I'll just let it continue.
The limiting factor for loads is the Factory Built Amperage internal capability of of the inverter itself. AN inverter with internal design capability of 10 amps max won't handle but slightly less than that. Even tho its possible to pull large amp loads through the ground the inverter limit stops that from happening.
When you get yours going you can work all that out for your self as your needs see fit..
Hope every thing is coming along good.
Clarence
Clarence said it was possible to use an inverter.
what do you think also here
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