Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[BroMikey]

When a couple of us here asked if Clarence could do a few very simple tests where the device is left to run for a reasonable amount of time, such as 24 hours or so while self looping, to really understand better how long his setup can maintain its battery voltage, Clarence has not responded.

Good luck with your experiments everyone!

I thought he said when it rained was the only time the power dropped off. The battery would drop in charge if he didn't lessen the loads as the rain seemed to diminished output. Also he said he shut it off if he left the house after it had run 4-5 hours?

I never heard him say he never ran it 24 hrs.

If it works for 5 hrs it will work forever. I think Clarence has answered everyone very well.

Hey Level did you build this one? You seem to know so much about this it seemed like you must have built one of these devices before. And if so did it work right?

Either way you are way ahead of me on these designs.

Mikey

[level]

From what I can gather from what Clarence has been saying so far, it seems that Clarence's setup does not self run, and Clarence appears to have done very little longer term testing to try to understand better how his setup actually does perform. When a couple of us here asked if Clarence could do a few very simple tests where the device is left to run for a reasonable amount of time, such as 24 hours or so while self looping, to really understand better how long his setup can maintain its battery voltage, Clarence has not responded. Clarence also then suggested that if people want to understand how his setup performs they should build their own. Considering the cost of the setup and the fact that you have to put a whole lot of ground rods in, it is reasonable in my mind that people should be able to have a clear idea first how Clarence's own setup is actually performing.

If Clarence's setup could self run, then I would see no reason that Clarence would not be happy to just fire up his device and leave it running for 12 or 24 hours or even longer while making periodic battery voltage measurements. Certainly that would take almost no effort on Clarence's part to do. I can only gather from this that Clarence's setup is not a self runner, and for whatever reason Clarence does not want to come out and admit this. Gather from this what you will. I don't understand it.

In engineering there is a concept of diminishing returns. A person could keep adding more and more ground rods beyond a certain point of say, for argument's sake, 40 or 50 ground rods. As you increase the ground rods in increments of 5 or 10 up to say 40 ground rods you may see increases in performance, but any increases in ground rods beyond that may only make a small difference, or no difference. It is also possible that people at different locations on the globe could get better results with less ground rods, as location or soil type might be a factor as well, as has been suggested here already. Another possibility to consider is that performance could possibly improve, or fall off, over time at the same location. This was something that mr. Thomas Bearden has mentioned seeing, where performance began to improve over time for an over unity device he was investigating, so the location appeared to be slowly getting 'conditioned'.

Good luck with your experiments everyone!

[clarence]

Thanks

I think this needs an incryption not a translation from the other side lol ...happy to note the healthy discussion.... thanks to Mr Mscoffman and MH

totoalas

Thanks totoalas,

thanks much!

Clarence

[totoalas]

Hello LEVEL,

I had sent a PM and I was wondering if you had time to answer.

thanks,

Clarence

I think this needs an incryption not a translation from the other side lol ...happy to note the healthy discussion.... thanks to Mr Mscoffman and MH

totoalas

[clarence]

PM message

Hello LEVEL,

I had sent a PM and I was wondering if you had time to answer.

thanks,

Clarence

[totoalas]

thanks again clarence now im heading to Hong Kong to shop around what can be used in this project...... comments from my youtube videos are also helpful
tools which Clarence has already done ....

totoalas.....

[clarence]

im talking of at least a 500 watts air conditioner 220 v ac ( one fourth horse power)

one more thing , for the inverter with 2 output are they in parallel as in your first schematic ????

totoalas,

you would only be speaking of 2.27 amp + the baseline captor amps of 1.4 amps = 3.67 amps. that should be a breeze (no pun) to do.

always - as long as your ground potential through earth return neutral
supports the inverter phase it should work without problems!

Yes the two inverter plugs have the same phase and neutral just separate circuits.

thanks

Clarence

[totoalas]

sorry totoalas,

I didvnot understand what you meant by a 1/4 hp ac ?

Clarence

im talking of at least a 500 watts air conditioner 220 v ac ( one fourth horse power)

one more thing , for the inverter with 2 output are they in parallel as in your first schematic ????

[clarence]

Thanks Clarence
so can a 1/4 hp ac be used coz thats my goal and quest for this b&l circuit
other household appliances can wait.... for the meantime i just add caps on my ac during operation ( still not using the rectifier type ac).....

the soltution i remember for the captor cable is to insert the cable into a copper pipe for cooling on heavy loads......

sorry totoalas,

I did not understand what you meant by a 1/4 hp ac ?

OH now I get it ! a 1/4 HORSE POWER air conditioning unit.
yes as long as the amperage that will be added to the #4 black wire
does not cause it to heat and then if it does simply change the #4 wire to a # 2 wire.
#2 does not wind as easily as #4 but I know you can handle it.

Clarence

[totoalas]

Hello totoalas ,

I just went and checked my unit and the toroid circuit showed 0.08 amps at
6.4 watts. thats why I like them. right size and mighty.

The # 4 AWG black wire showed 1.4 AC amps on the clamp meter.
a good bit of load amperage can be carried by it before it can get warm.

at idle its cool cool cool.

Clarence

Thanks Clarence
so can a 1/4 hp ac be used coz thats my goal and quest for this b&l circuit
other household appliances can wait.... for the meantime i just add caps on my ac during operation ( still not using the rectifier type ac).....

the soltution i remember for the captor cable is to insert the cable into a copper pipe for cooling on heavy loads......

[clarence]

Clarence and Level,
thanks for the swift replies and flow of info..... at least we know its working....
we dont need an ou ... what we need is how to lessen our burden of electric bills to food in the table ..... thats what matter in my country where power rates is the no 1 highest in Asia for a 3rd world country with some oil and gas and hydro / geothermal plants.......

Battery voltage drop can be topped off with solar/ sg and ssg / cap dump by Mickey's beasty sssg lots of possibilities rain or shine .....
now back to the drawing board..... theres a lot of DIYers out there that can join in

I remember in my test the 10 mm cable in the captor went to 90 deg C in an instant and also the Barbosa first video showed a 90 to 120 mm captor cable
but in your case ur case how is the heat in the captor ?????

for the earthing , ill go first to soil conditioning with salt .....
Now reminiscent with my past experience with old telephone company... we received complaints from a subscriber asking us after the repair their dog bark when the telephone ring??? when we investigated the lineman just wrapped the earth ground to a pipe where the dog is tied,,,,,,, the other complaint if they dont water their plant the telephone doesnt work ... the reason being the earth ground was placed in the pot since they were lazy enough to dig in the concrete lol

Hello totoalas ,

I just went and checked my unit and the toroid circuit showed 0.08 amps at
6.4 watts. thats why I like them. right size and mighty.

The # 4 AWG black wire showed 1.4 AC amps on the clamp meter.
a good bit of load amperage can be carried by it before it can get warm.

at idle its cool cool cool.
BTW: if your captor loop has more than say 2 amps at Idle you have some some captor windings problems.
if you can shoot a photo I can take a look at it and tell.

Clarence

[totoalas]

Clarence and Level,
thanks for the swift replies and flow of info..... at least we know its working....
we dont need an ou ... what we need is how to lessen our burden of electric bills to food in the table ..... thats what matter in my country where power rates is the no 1 highest in Asia for a 3rd world country with some oil and gas and hydro / geothermal plants.......

Battery voltage drop can be topped off with solar/ sg and ssg / cap dump by Mickey's beasty sssg lots of possibilities rain or shine .....
now back to the drawing board..... theres a lot of DIYers out there that can join in

I remember in my test the 10 mm cable in the captor went to 90 deg C in an instant and also the Barbosa first video showed a 90 to 120 mm captor cable
but in your case ur case how is the heat in the captor ?????

for the earthing , ill go first to soil conditioning with salt .....
Now reminiscent with my past experience with old telephone company... we received complaints from a subscriber asking us after the repair their dog bark when the telephone ring??? when we investigated the lineman just wrapped the earth ground to a pipe where the dog is tied,,,,,,, the other complaint if they dont water their plant the telephone doesnt work ... the reason being the earth ground was placed in the pot since they were lazy enough to dig in the concrete lol

[level]

Hello LEVEL
the word sometimes is a good usage but that should not imply always.
I have let it run unloaded ( actually it was loaded by the charger) before for around twelve hours and it stayed around the 12+ for that period. when you do get to being able to build yours you definitely wont have to ask anyone anymore questions. you'll have your own answers.
till then,
the best.
Clarence

Clarence, Ok, from your reply it seems you are not much interested in investigating and sharing more details on how your setup performs beyond just a short time, but from what I can gather from some of your comments it appears you have not been able to get your setup to be a continuous self runner. That is important information for people to know however before they go and invest a large sum of money in a replication, and this is the reason I asked twice about the performance now. To tell other people to build your setup if they want to know how your setup might actually perform doesn't make sense. You need to be fully forthcoming on what your setup can do and what it can't do, based on actual performance testing. To just give people the run around when they ask for specific test results on how your setup is performing, after you have stated more than a few times that your setup is 'working' is not a good sign at all. People should have more than wishful thinking before investing a large sum of money and time and effort into a replication.

Happy experimenting!

[clarence]

Hello Clarence. If I understand correctly, you are sometimes at least not able to run your setup for more than about 4 hours without the battery voltage falling down to 12 volts or less, but actual performance varies in relation to whether it has been raining or not and maybe other factors as well? The one piece of information on your setup we are still missing is how long you typically can run your setup before the battery voltage starts to fall noticeably. If you can help clarify this any further by maybe running some more tests for longer times like 12 hours or more, that would be very helpful to prospective replicators. Maybe you can compare tests results from a rainy day to tests results for the same test conditions for a sunny day. That might help to shed more light on the effect of the weather or dampness on the performance.

Hello LEVEL

the word sometimes is a good usage but that should not imply always.
I have let it run unloaded ( actually it was loaded by the charger) before for around twelve hours and it stayed around the 12+ for that period. when you do get to being able to build yours you definitely wont have to ask anyone anymore questions. you'll have your own answers. also I have stated that to overcome weather and other earth difficulties I have pointed out to myself that I need at least 10 more rods because of my location but I am not going to do that at this time,
I've had enough rod pushing and connecting for awhile. also I don't do testing anymore - i'm out of that category, instead I do using. I use it to run various household items to reduce my electric bill. that was its purpose and that is what I use
it for. think on it - a micro uses 15.5 amps at 1640 watts. use that off and on through out the day and it isn't free. it costs if it is run on mains. It doesn't for me. I power it by my unit.


till then,

the best.

Clarence

[clarence]

Hello totoalas, on the schematic it shows that the two outer sets of grounds of 28 rods each are all wired together, so they are really one set of ground rods. The other set of ground rods is the 4 grounds in the center which are tied together. I don't think Clarence has posted a diagram of his current ground rod layout, but Clarence posted an earlier ground rod layout in the diagram that is attached to this post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/273531-post4.html

@Clarence, I think totoalas was asking what the measured resistance is between the input and output set of ground rods you have installed, as a rough idea of how much resistance there is between your two sets of ground rods. I don't know if a typical multimeter can measure earth resistance very reliably, but it might still give a rough idea for comparison purposes.

Hello LEVEL,

you are completely accurate about ALL the points you noted on your last two posts to totoalas.

on the DVMM - correct again. in the past whenever i tried with it wouldn't give me any readings so I don't go that way any more.

just as a reliable method, I would start with 10 rods linked in series (without looping it yet ) and attach the Captor 2 1/2 green return earth neutral to it and read across that output leads and find the rms voltage shown. if it doesn't match the inverter rms voltage then keep adding rods until it does.
THEN complete the loop. make SURE you add about ten more rods before looping or you WILL be back to do so. thats by experience.

that's why I have said this devise is self teaching. it won't let you get away with anything - and that's good not bad in my view.

thanks again Sir.

Clarence