Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[vrand]

Hi Luc,
My explanation of what is occurring is that the input Voltage AND Amperage are needed for this device to work. Without either the Amperage or Voltage the device does not work. AND the higher the input Amperage the higher the output Amperage, but the output Amperage or Voltage will not be higher than input. Its like a flat mirror reflecting the same image.

If I put a 5A fuse to limit the input Amperage to 5 amps, the output amperage will also stop at the 5 amp limit. This device will NOT increase the Voltage or Amperage.

This device only extracts/pulls the same, or less, voltage and amperage (due to ground and load losses) out of the Earth ground, using only 5 watts of input.

Now my AC meters are showing only 5 watts and 0.04 amps being used in the input. They could be wrong. One way to test it is by using a DC meter in an inverter/battery setup and put a DC amp meter to measure the net amps being used in the input side from the batteries.

Also, if I pulled out the ground wire connection to the device the device stops working. In previous tests I've written above, the 500 watt isolation transformer was limited to 5 amps output. So when I tried to add output loads higher than 500 watts the isolation transformer 5 amp fuse would pop out and shut down the isolation transformer output.

This device uses the input Voltage and Amperage (V/A) in a special way to pump out Earth electricity without actually using all of the input V/A, only a tiny amount is being used to do this. Strange indeed. Theoretically the sky is the limit. A larger size device who knows how many volts/amps of electricity could be extracted from the Earth.

Cheers

[gotoluc]

Dear vrand, not sure if I follow but lets see.
You say it's like a mirror. So, would it be that half the power is coming from the grid and the other half from the ground? is what you're trying to say?


However, you wrote this: Current setup for 120 Vac. using 5 watts input from utility, (0.04 amps) and getting 2000 watts output

Is this correct?... are you only using 0.04 amps from the grid to produce 2000 watts output?

Which is it and can you make a video demo of it working?

Thanks for your time

Luc

[wantomake]

Gdt

Update on existing grounding testing:

Current setup for 120 Vac. using 5 watts input from utility, (0.04 amps) and getting 2000 watts output, (24.5 amps) from the device, then the input plug circuit breaker trips open. To go over +20 amps output will need a higher rated circuit breaker. Everything runs cool, no heat on the wiring or toroids. This device could go to 50 amps or more, just need to get a larger circuit breaker.

Good existing grounding so far, where the input drops to 117 Vac (utility) and device output drops to 116.5 Vac at 2000 watts output. So only a 0.5 Vac difference from input voltage to output voltage at 2000 watts output.

Will also try to increase input voltage with variac to 240 Vac to see what can get on output.

Tried a 500 watt isolation transformer, but when the device output past the 5 amp transforner limit it tripped open its circuit breaker. The Killawatt meters also max out at 1500 watts and then starts beeping and shuts down.

If going to inverter/charger setup, it looks like the limiting device output factor would be the inverters output amps. For example if the maximum inverter output amps was 5 amps (500 watt unit) then the device output could only use 5 amps, even thou the input meter shows only 0.04 amps was being used from the inverter. This is a strange device for sure!

For my 25 feet of closed loop secondary windings of #12 awg (yellow wire) I got 19 turns on each toroid. The circulating current always stayed around 6.65 amps, no matter what the output current.

Cheers

Vrand,
Good to hear your progress with this B&L replication.

Nice picture of your setup. I noticed you don't use a GDT on the ground grid return. Unless it's just not pictured.

I found that placing my amp clamp on the ground grid wire did show amps being extracted from the earth.

If not too much to ask, a video showing your schematic and results as the previous poster mentioned will restart this thread and finish this build once and for all.

I could not get my setup to produce much output and still have all of the components in place.
So to see your way of setup would be great.

I'm in LA area now, will be headed back to South Carolina Saturday.
Keep up the good work,
wantomake

[vrand]

Dear vrand, not sure if I follow but lets see.
You say it's like a mirror. So, would it be that half the power is coming from the grid and the other half from the ground? is what you're trying to say?


However, you wrote this: Current setup for 120 Vac. using 5 watts input from utility, (0.04 amps) and getting 2000 watts output

Is this correct?... are you only using 0.04 amps from the grid to produce 2000 watts output?

Which is it and can you make a video demo of it working?

Thanks for your time

Luc

Hi Luc,
Yes, due to the limit of the 20 amps circuit breaker (wall plug circuit) in my current setup, the output is also limited to 20 amps. Working on testing it on a 50 amp circuit.

The device uses the input 20 amps and outputs loads up to 20 amps, all the while only 0.02 amps (4 watts) input is actually being used to extract the +2000 watts output. Pretty amazing!

Attached 6 photos showing earlier device performance, before adding more existing ground connections to lowering the ground resistance, which is a key feature of this device.

At 1400 watts output, and 4 watts input
- the input voltage is 118.6 vac
- the output voltage is 114.6 vac
- output amps 12.29A
- input amps 12.41A
- Input ground amps 12.23A

Cheers

[wantomake]

Vrand,
Ok. Now I see the GDT in the 4th picture.

wantomake

[vrand]

Vrand,
Good to hear your progress with this B&L replication.

Nice picture of your setup. I noticed you don't use a GDT on the ground grid return. Unless it's just not pictured.

I found that placing my amp clamp on the ground grid wire did show amps being extracted from the earth.

If not too much to ask, a video showing your schematic and results as the previous poster mentioned will restart this thread and finish this build once and for all.

I could not get my setup to produce much output and still have all of the components in place.
So to see your way of setup would be great.

I'm in LA area now, will be headed back to South Carolina Saturday.
Keep up the good work,
wantomake

Hi wantomake,
Yes, the GDT is there, now shown clearer in the 6 photos I just uploaded.
The design is basically what Clarence showed back on Post #1570 and 1581 (thanks again Clarence!)

Its really a very simple device, compared to what I have been working on for the last several decades. That is what got me so interested in the first place.

When the local utility turned off the power for 13 hrs and 1500 homes were in the dark until midnight. The next day I went searching this forum last August 23rd. I discovered Clarence found the solution to tapping the unlimited electricity in the Earth on August 8th! The coincidence of needing a solution to local utility outages due to the 90 year old electrical grid needing maintenance, and finding Clarence's solution was unbelievable!

After viewing Clarence photos and ordering the parts, it was a snap to put together.

- Next step was the connection to the Earth ground to the device. See upper left corner of photos with #6 awg wiring to terminal block. Already had existing 8 ft ground rod (earlier project) so tapped into that. Turned it on and it worked to light up a 68 watt light bulb with 4 watts input!

That one ground rod was not enough to power larger loads though. So off to find existing grounded sources, as I do not have time to driving 26 rods into the Earth just yet.

- Next, tapped to existing buried steel posts structure and lawn water pipe system and bingo, got really good results.

Let me know where you are having trouble and maybe I can help.
Cheers

[wantomake]

Looks good

Hi wantomake,
Yes, the GDT is there, now shown clearer in the 6 photos I just uploaded.
The design is basically what Clarence showed back on Post #1570 and 1581 (thanks again Clarence!)

Its really a very simple device, compared to what I have been working on for the last several decades. That is what got me so interested in the first place.

When the local utility turned off the power for 13 hrs and 1500 homes were in the dark until midnight. The next day I went searching this forum last August 23rd. I discovered Clarence found the solution to tapping the unlimited electricity in the Earth on August 8th! The coincidence of needing a solution to local utility outages due to the 90 year old electrical grid needing maintenance, and finding Clarence's solution was unbelievable!

After viewing Clarence photos and ordering the parts, it was a snap to put together.

- Next step was the connection to the Earth ground to the device. See upper left corner of photos with #6 awg wiring to terminal block. Already had existing 8 ft ground rod (earlier project) so tapped into that. Turned it on and it worked to light up a 68 watt light bulb with 4 watts input!

That one ground rod was not enough to power larger loads though. So off to find existing grounded sources, as I do not have time to driving 26 rods into the Earth just yet.

- Next, tapped to existing buried steel posts structure and lawn water pipe system and bingo, got really good results.

Let me know where you are having trouble and maybe I can help.
Cheers

Vrand,
I'm not at my shop so trying to remember where I stopped working on this.

Make sure your setup isn't just "fooling the meter" with "hot" to ground connection. Try disconnecting the toroids and see if it still works. Because I got fooled by that more than once.

I used battery/inverter setup to ensure there wasn't any "fool the meter" type circuit happening. Also when we loss the grid as winter or storms happen, we use my solar battery bank as backup.

Are you using the UPS (pictured) for power supply? I would use my battery/inverter most of the time. But would use the grid at times just to test what others were doing. But in both cases, just my experience and opinion, the power seems to flow from "hot" through the GDT then to ground.

I'll recheck that when I get back this weekend, but that's what frustrated me. I couldn't get my setup to extract from my 4 grounding rods. My area is very high geomagnetic mapping. I also replicated Clarence setup exactly like you did.

So will see after I get back.
wantomake
PS Time is wrong on my Kindle fire should read 10:20am.

[wantomake]

Fires

Vrand,
Forgot to mention. Hope you're not in the Santa Rosa area with that fire. We are just 10~12 miles from that area. Many lives,homes, and properties lost there.

wantomake

[vrand]

Hi wantomake,
Getting a "pure sine wave" inverter to test with DC meters, in inverter/battery setup, to see if they read any different from the AC meters in current utility input setup.

Tried to power up the device with a 2500 watt, 24 vdc, "modified sine wave" inverter/battery setup and it did not work at all. Tried to go through isolation transformer in order to smooth out the square waves, and it was a no go also, just lots of humming sounds from the transformer and inverter.

Is your inverter a true/pure sine wave inverter? This device needs a utility grade sine wave. Maybe that is your problem? Will put a scope on the inverter output to verify it is a true sine wave when it arrives.
Cheers
ps really feel sad for the folks up there in northern California that lost everything, a once in a 100 year weather/fire event.

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc,
Yes, due to the limit of the 20 amps circuit breaker (wall plug circuit) in my current setup, the output is also limited to 20 amps. Working on testing it on a 50 amp circuit.

The device uses the input 20 amps and outputs loads up to 20 amps, all the while only 0.02 amps (4 watts) input is actually being used to extract the +2000 watts output. Pretty amazing!

Attached 6 photos showing earlier device performance, before adding more existing ground connections to lowering the ground resistance, which is a key feature of this device.

At 1400 watts output, and 4 watts input
- the input voltage is 118.6 vac
- the output voltage is 114.6 vac
- output amps 12.29A
- input amps 12.41A
- Input ground amps 12.23A

Cheers

Dear vrand,

Please do this test.
Turn off all the breakers of your home panel except for one 120v outlet.
Make sure nothing else is connected to that outlet or other outlets on that circuit.
Now, directly connect your 1,400 watts load to this outlet and go to your Utility Meter and note down how many time the Meter wheel turns every 60 seconds.
Then do the same test but connect it through your circuit with same load and do the same meter rotation count.
If both methods give the same Meter rotation counts over the same period of time then there's nothing special.

If your Utility Meter is a digital you should see - - - bars going from left to right which represents the wheel turning. Just count how many of those bars appear in a fixed amount of time.
To be more accurate I would recommend to count how many rotation or bars occur over a 5 minutes period or more time if you can. The longer the load test is the more accurate the results are between each test as long as the test time are exactly the same for each.

Please let us know the results of this test.

Thanks for your time

Luc

[vrand]

Hi Luc,
Thank you for your suggestion on testing the device, but it is not possible to do it at the moment. When the "pure sine wave" inverter shows up, will test it to DC meters and compare to see if there is any difference to the AC meters.
Cheers

[wantomake]

Modified not pure

Hi wantomake,
Getting a "pure sine wave" inverter to test with DC meters, in inverter/battery setup, to see if they read any different from the AC meters in current utility input setup.

Tried to power up the device with a 2500 watt, 24 vdc, "modified sine wave" inverter/battery setup and it did not work at all. Tried to go through isolation transformer in order to smooth out the square waves, and it was a no go also, just lots of humming sounds from the transformer and inverter.

Is your inverter a true/pure sine wave inverter? This device needs a utility grade sine wave. Maybe that is your problem? Will put a scope on the inverter output to verify it is a true sine wave when it arrives.
Cheers
ps really feel sad for the folks up there in northern California that lost everything, a once in a 100 year weather/fire event.

Vrand,
Pretty sure mine is modified not pure sine wave. It's for my shop equipment. I've been suspicious that was the problem, but never tried the pure sine wave inverter. Shopping for one right now.

If that's the problem then I owe Clarence an apology for taking so long to solve my problem. I remember he used a pure sine wave one and got good results.

Thanks,
wantomake

[Jkeadle2]

Question on final design.

Hi Clarence,
I rarely post anything in the forums but have been following your work and I must say a working replication is very exciting. I have wondered about this device for a long time and admire your persistence in reproducing it. I recently moved so unfortunately I have to remake my ground grid but have started to rebuild it.
However could you please clarify something for me.?
Unless I misread the information I understand the final working device has the secondary windings connected together as a shorted ground loop as shown like the attached Pic 1

However on page 51 post # 1529 you said the following.
The word LOOP does NOT refer to the SHORTED LOOP AT ALL! It simply means the CONTINUATION of the Item #4 wire from one transformer to another!
The OPEN ENDS of the #4 illustrated wire become the HOT and NEUTRAL
of the circuit to POWER LOADS!
THIS process eliminates a DIRECT WIRE CONNECTION TO POWER LOADS.
It makes the power supply to the loads AVAILABLE BY MAGNETIC FLUX through the transformers.
This explanation seems to match what I see in the patent which makes me think it should be as shown in the attached Pic 2.
Just trying to wrap my head around it.

Thanks for any advice you can provide.
Pic 1.jpg

Pic 2.jpg

[level]

Dear vrand,
Thanks for sharing your information.
Could you please make a video demo of your device in operation and show the Grid input measurement you use.
Also, it would be great if you can add a 5 Amp auto fuse in series on the grid HOT side wire and show a closeup of the fuse filament. This way we will know the grid current would be limited to 5 Amps. This will also add confirmation that your meters are not being fooled somehow.
Thanks for your help
Luc

Hello Luc. Although it has been explained several times in this thread what a mains ground loop is and how to check if that is what is happening, people still seem to keep getting fooled by this. Why they would ignore this warning is beyond me.

You can also place an AC current clamp-on meter on the mains 'hot' phase wire (not the 'neutral' phase wire) at the input to the B&L device to read the true input current to the B&L device coming from the mains. Yes, some power meters can be fooled by this type of setup. Dollars to doughnuts the current is coming from the mains hot phase wire through the B&L device to the earth ground rod grid, and back through the ground back to the grounded neutral at the mains service box (a mains ground loop).

As has been mentioned several times in this thread already, the only meaningful way to test these B&L captor devices is using a battery powered AC inverter. If it doesn't work with a battery powered AC inverter (no mains connections at all), then it is simply not working. If some people still haven't figured it out yet, the B&L 'captor' devices just do not appear to work when using a battery powered inverter, and only seem to 'work' when connected to the mains because of a mains ground loop. Hopefully people will start getting the message now. No one that I know of has been able to demonstrate one of these B&L setups 'working' where it is not actually just a mains ground loop. Sorry, but those are the undeniable facts. Vrand can confirm this or demonstrate otherwise with a battery powered inverter if he likes. People have wasted enough money and time on these B&L setups already.

[pedroxime]

Yes, all the experiments in the B&L should be only with inverter-battery.
I have been several times in Brazil and trick-hack the electric meter is a very popular sport.
They call it fazer um gato, to make a cat