Barbosa and Leal Devices - Info and Replication Details

[wantomake]

Did you say "coffee"?

Wantomake,

Morning Sir! Should say a Good Coffee morning for sure!
I have some extra on hand scrap multi-strand high AWG wire . So for this interim time I am going to be doing as many types of Thought-up ground return wire wraps on the Captor Coil as possible. The Toroid core and 660
coil will be totally disconnected for all of this time.
Now's the time to play so this ole boy is going to love it!
Will make written notes to myself and then get back to you when I run out
of ways to wrap. Last thing I tried Showed an increase of induction transfer to the DEAD Captor coil from the previous .2 amps to a new .3 amps.
Will see how high an induction transfer between the two I can build.

Have a good sip or two J.

Clarence

Clarence,
You took the sip right out of my mouth!!

On my second cup, so can't guaranty any smart notes here.


Yes, that's some of the tests I tried. Different types wraps with different awg's. But all my tests and notes are no good cause I have the wrong size GDT's.

A relief really cause I wanted this project to be something for all to be able to use.

I'll be replacing the base of my project with some 3/4" plywood today. And using 1/2" dowels to hold the 1 ought 10 foot loop. I have found out if I place the loop 2" away from the coil, make the loop larger, there is a increase from 56 amps to 70+ amps in the loop. I will confirm that today to be sure.

I also need to replace the ground return (green wire) because I'm using 12 or 14 awg right now. I've a old thick drop cord that I'll try. It has three about same size wires inside it.

All of this is contingent on me not melting from this heat wave.

Haha is that coffee sitting there......

wantomake

[wantomake]

Progress

Clarence and All,
Well I did get some things re-done on the setup in spite of the heat.

To confirm what was posted earlier, after making the loop larger around the coil there is an increase of amps. From 56 to 66.7+amps. So I went back to the old Ariovaldo pictures from OU, and found the overhead picture showing the coil and captor. Sorry can't post that photo using this 2nd generation Kindle fire tablet. But there is a gap there in the photo between coil and loop.

I used 1/2" sized dowels to hold the loop around the coil about 8" diameter. Also the 2' x 2' x 3/4" plywood gives plenty of space to add the block terminals, switches, and outlet receptacle.

Today is new day with good coffee and the three GDT's should be here via USPS this afternoon.

wantomake

[wantomake]

90 volt GDT

To All,
Just connected the 90 volt GDT to the setup and the 100 watt load light up like it should. Pulling .5 amp from the setup.

But I disconnected the green ground grid wire and there was not gain or loss of power. I found no amp pull coming from the green ground grid wire with my amp clamp and Fluke meter. Amperage on the loop is 67 amps. There's amps on the green wire wrapped two times around the loop.

Therefore I am open to any suggestions.

wantomake
EDIT: The GDT heats up faster as add more load to the system.

[clarence]

Mains? Or batt inverter powered

To All,
Just connected the 90 volt GDT to the setup and the 100 watt load light up like it should. Pulling .5 amp from the setup.

But I disconnected the green ground grid wire and there was not gain or loss of power. I found no amp pull coming from the green ground grid wire with my amp clamp and Fluke meter. Amperage on the loop is 67 amps. There's amps on the green wire wrapped two times around the loop.

Therefore I am open to any suggestions.

wantomake
EDIT: The GDT heats up faster as add more load to the system.

Wantomake,

Are you using Mains ( I am) or Batt/ Inverter AND do you have a Neutral Ground INPUT from the inverter.
A batt/Inverter system REPRESENTS a UTILITY COMPANY so it MUST have a
neutral input to earth SAME as A Utility Company DOES.

A GDT will only HEAT as loads are added if it is placed DIRECTLY betweenl
the neutral and LOAD and HOT lead. It won't even know or care whether there is a connection to ground.

Make your system like a Utility Company and then the heat should go away.

My 2 cents.

Need to spend a dollar on coffee first tho - Ha Ha.

Just a little joke J. !

Clarence

[wantomake]

One dollar for your thoughts

Wantomake,

Are you using Mains ( I am) or Batt/ Inverter AND do you have a Neutral Ground INPUT from the inverter.
A batt/Inverter system REPRESENTS a UTILITY COMPANY so it MUST have a
neutral input to earth SAME as A Utility Company DOES.

A GDT will only HEAT as loads are added if it is placed DIRECTLY betweenl
the neutral and LOAD and HOT lead. It won't even know or care whether there is a connection to ground.

Make your system like a Utility Company and then the heat should go away.

My 2 cents.

Need to spend a dollar on coffee first tho - Ha Ha.

Just a little joke J. !

Clarence

Clarence,
Ok then I'll connect it to the mains tomorrow and run the same tests.

So are you still using this setup like a Utility Company? How are you setup now?

Yes I'm using an inverter and battery power.

wantomake

[clarence]

Mains setup - with gdt and run cap

Clarence,
Ok tgen I'll connect it to tge mains tomorrow and run the same tests.

So are you still using this setup like a Utility Company? How are you setup now?

Yes I'm using an inverter and battery power.

wantomake

Wantomake,

Here is the present Mains set up. Powered by a 20 amp mains wall outlet/extension cord.
Without the 5 mf Run capacitor between the GDT and the Ground wire return
this circuit will Auto trip the breaker. ?
This Cap setup is also needed for a batt/inverter route ( PLUS a neutral ground rod INPUT) to keep the inverter from Auto trip also.

Basically it's a Fool the Meter layout - at present I use Two HEAVY DUTY
drop cards to power my Fridge (green cord) and my microwave oven (yellow cord). NONE of the power load is reflected through the mains meter.
Will only do this until trials are over!
As far as I can tell not having a Capacitor in this manner is what prevented
the Ariovaldo unit from working - Everything Else is all the same - EXACTLY!

However will still keep working to get the Captor thing understood with a reasonable explanation of does it WORK or NOT?

Sat with daughter in law on patio this PM and had some good coffee!!!!!
NICE NICE NICE!

Hope you can get yours working J, the mains thing is a lot easier to get a whole lot of trials done in a shorter time space - Time is everything (cept for lots'a Joe) .

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake,

Here is the present Mains set up. Powered by a 20 amp mains wall outlet/extension cord.
Without the 5 mf Run capacitor between the GDT and the Ground wire return
this circuit will Auto trip the breaker. ?
This Cap setup is also needed for a batt/inverter route ( PLUS a neutral ground rod INPUT) to keep the inverter from Auto trip also.

Basically it's a Fool the Meter layout - at present I use Two HEAVY DUTY
drop cards to power my Fridge (green cord) and my microwave oven (yellow cord). NONE of the power load is reflected through the mains meter.
Will only do this until trials are over!
As far as I can tell not having a Capacitor in this manner is what prevented
the Ariovaldo unit from working - Everything Else is all the same - EXACTLY!

However will still keep working to get the Captor thing understood with a reasonable explanation of does it WORK or NOT?

Sat with daughter in law on patio this PM and had some good coffee!!!!!
NICE NICE NICE!

Hope you can get yours working J, the mains thing is a lot easier to get a whole lot of trials done in a shorter time space - Time is everything (cept for lots'a Joe) .

Clarence

Clarence,
Ok. Good picture. I see what you did now. My belief was powering this project with inverter to avoid that whole meter thing. But it's not to be.

Will add a cap where you specify. Then try with mains power just to do faster testing plus find a way to use inverter/battery power.

Well I need to reheat my coffee,
wantomake

[clarence]

Gotch'a

Clarence,
Ok. Good picture. I see what you did now. My belief was powering this project with inverter to avoid that whole meter thing. But it's not to be.

Will add a cap where you specify. Then try with mains power just to do faster testing plus find a way to use inverter/battery power.

Well I need to reheat my coffee,
wantomake

Wantomake,

This post is just to let you know we're on the same Page.
When I find out anything New then I will get back to you.


Good sippin!

Clarence

[wantomake]

Cap

Clarence,
Finally got wires on block terminals correctly. Connected the cap where you specified and "it's coffee time". The 100 watt bulb as the load lite good and bright for a little while and the temperature on the GDT increased. But then the bulb went to half lumens and the GDT cooled down to ambient temp. Which is a cool and comfortable 95°. But I'm not sure if it makes any difference using run or startup capacitor. I ordered the same two you had earlier in our e-mail's.

Did any of your loads act any certain way as this? I changed the GDT to new one but was the same amount of brightness.

Also, if you are running a refrig and air conditioner unit through this setup, how is your unit not pulling any amps on the meter?

Sorry about so many questions.
But this setup has me curious now that the amp clamp shows small amperage from the ground.

wantomake

[clarence]

Clarence,
Finally got wires on block terminals correctly. Connected the cap where you specified and "it's coffee time". The 100 watt bulb as the load lite good and bright for a little while and the temperature on the GDT increased. But then the bulb went to half lumens and the GDT cooled down to ambient temp. Which is a cool and comfortable 95°. But I'm not sure if it makes any difference using run or startup capacitor. I ordered the same two you had earlier in our e-mail's.

Did any of your loads act any certain way as this? I changed the GDT to new one but was the same amount of brightness.

Also, if you are running a refrig and air conditioner unit through this setup, how is your unit not pulling any amps on the meter?

Sorry about so many questions.
But this setup has me curious now that the amp clamp shows small amperage from the ground.

wantomake

Wantomake,

You need to use ONLY a RUN CAP - Awhile back I found out A start cap WILL cause HEAT.

Also I am NOT running an air conditioner!
I AM running a REFRIGERATOR and MICROWAVE OVEN.

A fool the meter routine involves the input from the mains and the alternating NEUTRAL being supplied Through the EARTH.

For the amps to show on the UTILITY METER the input and neutral return BOTH PASS THROUGH THE METER - no pass through and the meter just scratches it head and wonders ? and keeps on passing and receiving energy
to the rest of a household or what ever.
If its done on a large basis then the Utility will take notice sooner or later
and send someone out to see whats going on!

A brand new toy is always puzzling to most But I have 80 years of HOW TO DO behind my methods and STILL LEARNING.

Still finishing pump problems so not done much with new toy today.

Giv'er a SIP for me!

Clarence

[wantomake]

Run cap rules !!!

Wantomake,

You need to use ONLY a RUN CAP - Awhile back I found out A start cap WILL cause HEAT.

Also I am NOT running an air conditioner!
I AM running a REFRIGERATOR and MICROWAVE OVEN.

A fool the meter routine involves the input from the mains and the alternating NEUTRAL being supplied Through the EARTH.

For the amps to show on the UTILITY METER the input and neutral return BOTH PASS THROUGH THE METER - no pass through and the meter just scratches it head and wonders ? and keeps on passing and receiving energy
to the rest of a household or what ever.
If its done on a large basis then the Utility will take notice sooner or later
and send someone out to see whats going on!

A brand new toy is always puzzling to most But I have 80 years of HOW TO DO behind my methods and STILL LEARNING.

Still finishing pump problems so not done much with new toy today.

Giv'er a SIP for me!

Clarence

Clarence,
Sipping that golden liquid this AM and musing over these forum entries.

Run cap is king. Ok. Will fire up Amazon, eBay, Digi-key, or Mouser. But until that part makes it's way down the snail trail, I'll enjoy waching this version of the setup run.

No I'm not attracting the attention of any power company just to save money on a electric bill. But my interest is using a inverter/battery as the patent shows if possible. Why you may ask after a sip of "wake me up". Well when that dependable power goes off, then what?

Coffee needs a refill,
wantomake

[clarence]

Explained that before

Clarence,
But my interest is using a inverter/battery as the patent shows if possible. Why you may ask after a sip of "wake me up". Well when that dependable power goes off, then what?

Coffee needs a refill,
wantomake

Wantomake

I explained back some posts that when A utility company goes off line
( a black out ) and you are depending on it with this toy Then you are SCREWED! It's not a new scenario to me.

Now let me give you some advice about a Batt/Inverter program with this toy.
You consider it the ULTIMATE ANSWER. IT IS NOT! Not even Close!
In a batt/inverter type scenario the battery is KING! At present this toy will
NOT support any charger action whether it's a Smart Charger or Whatever!
So the length of use of a battery/inverter program is limited in MINUTES
until its voltage level drops low enough to make the the inverter FAIL.

You seem to think that I am willing to use the mains as a permanen type of arrangement . W R O N G !
I said it BEFORE and I am saying it AGAIN - I use the mains because it is EASIER to make trials of different methods than a pain in the ass batt/inverter.

Clarence

[wantomake]

True

Clarence,
Calm down you need some coffee!! Haha no wait maybe I do..!!!

But true, the inverter/battery is a pain in the bottom area. The mains is a good steady power source to work out the bugs.

As soon as wife's boss gets here, I'll head home and to the shop. If the heat holds off I can work a little on this.

Of course you always keep me on point and I appreciate your drive to finish this project.

Was that a Starbucks I just passed.........
Later ole friend,
wantomake
Edit: Ordered a capacitor and should be here Monday.

[clarence]

Right on ole friend

Clarence,
Calm down you need some coffee!! Haha no wait maybe I do..!!!

But true, the inverter/battery is a pain in the bottom area. The mains is a good steady power source to work out the bugs.

As soon as wife's boss gets here, I'll head home and to the shop. If the heat holds off I can work a little on this.

Of course you always keep me on point and I appreciate your drive to finish this project.

Was that a Starbucks I just passed.........
Later ole friend,
wantomake
Edit: Ordered a capacitor and should be here Monday.

Wantomake,

The gist of it all is that I share the same end goal as you, namely a proven
working energy producing B&L unit that WILL power loads Plus a smart charger to keep a battery bank at high voltage and let an Inverter do it's constant steady thing.
I am definitely NOT in love with the mains program - rather the exact opposite.


Have been out on farm doing works, etc, this AM but had to haul ass back to A/C to cool off. 90+ here with steamy haze from high humidity. That's what puts me in sit down mode quick.
Finally finished pump work so from now on I can get back busy on the "toy".

Ordered me another 50 ft roll of #6 AWG batt cable wire from Pacer Group
to make many more trials to get this thing to actually do something for a change.
Even a few volts and amps could be an indication of at least some kind of direction to go. Been slim picken's so far.

Thanks J,
EDIT: I also ordered me 10 more 90 volt GDT so I can Really PLAY!

Clarence

[wantomake]

Wantomake,

The gist of it all is that I share the same end goal as you, namely a proven
working energy producing B&L unit that WILL power loads Plus a smart charger to keep a battery bank at high voltage and let an Inverter do it's constant steady thing.
I am definitely NOT in love with the mains program - rather the exact opposite.


Have been out on farm doing works, etc, this AM but had to haul ass back to A/C to cool off. 90+ here with steamy haze from high humidity. That's what puts me in sit down mode quick.
Finally finished pump work so from now on I can get back busy on the "toy".

Ordered me another 50 ft roll of #6 AWG batt cable wire from Pacer Group
to make many more trials to get this thing to actually do something for a change.
Even a few volts and amps could be an indication of at least some kind of direction to go. Been slim picken's so far.

Thanks J,
EDIT: I also ordered me 10 more 90 volt GDT so I can Really PLAY!

Clarence

Clarence,
This heat is a pain in the rear end of my tractor.

Just sitting and enjoying early morning coffee while looking through forums and one eye out the front door at jungle begging to be mowed.

After receiving the cap I'll be able to see this setup work and try more ways to use the batt/inverter. My shop is 130 +- feet from the house, so using this to power anything would look suspicious to any power company trucks. Best to just leave it a toy for now. If we are able use this to save energy, then I can box size it with cooling fan, carrying handles, batt/inverter(or mains), and use it in my house. Just to power a floor fan or something.

No attention drawn leaves problems outside the gate. Leave the toy a toy. I always speak of myself. Never assuming toward you or anyone as your years prove helpful and appreciated.

The dew is heavy, sun's peaking behind the trees, coffee is cold. Time to reheat the coffee to kick this day out the door.

wantomake
PS: Only bought (3) 90 volt GDT's but ok so far.