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  • Steele Braden Generator

    Gentlemen,
    I think long and hard before bringing a new thread to this forum. I communicate by email with folks from all over the world concerning the devices they have built, but few will allow me to share publicly what they have discovered, and I respect their privacy. I have run across a generator device which I myself have replicated and it appears, at least in prototype form, to do every single thing the originator claims it will do. I have no idea whether a scaled up model will be more or less successful, but I am in the process of building one at the present time, and would suggest that several of you might want to do the same. If you can get your hands on some plastic disks, half the battle is already won. I am using 12 inch rotors on mine, but I have a bunch of them I have made and am purchasing more.

    I am in communication with Steele Braden, who IS an Electrical Engineer, which should cause a few of you to raise your eyebrows immediately. This project has been a long and tedious road for him, and he has seen fit to turn it over to the public. He may join us here, or he may not, but is willing, at least for now, to answer questions through me. I have promised to keep his email address a secret and I can't say for sure that Steele Braden is even his real name.

    It may take me a few posts to disclose everything he has shared with me so far, but the following text is taken from his emails to me and compiled into a sort of narrative. Any spelling, typing, or editing mistakes are mine as I attempted to take the substance of several emails that had repetitive and original information in them and combine it all into one document. So I hope it is understandable and that you get what he is driving at. ALL INFO IN RED IS DIRECTLY FROM STEELE. All other stuff is my ramblings and not to be confused with his specific directions and information. Also, it will make it easier for new folks to pick out the important stuff as we go along.

    Dave

    This is an alternator (generator) that CANCELS out ALL BACK-TORQUE. 
The only work that the small drive motor has to do is overcome very small air and bearing friction.
As you know, all “standard” alternators, produce back-torque when an electrical load is connected to their output.
The lower the resistance of the load, the more mechanical energy that has to be put into rotating the alternators shaft. 
My machine on the other hand, has no connection between the rotational energy requirements of the small drive motor and the output energy.
Basically, two rotary capacitors that are 180 degrees out of step with each other, RECYCLE a charge back and forth between them indefinitely.
When one rotary capacitor is fully “meshed” (maximum capacitance,) the other cap. is unmeshed (minimum capacitance.)
To placate the “conservation of energy” guys, this machine certainly conserves power, in that it RECYCLES power, so does not deplete the initially placed charge.
The machine would normally lose about 9 microamps through imperfect insulation etc, but the machine also keeps the HT charge topped up.
 My machine is only small, so not very practical, but a larger machine would produce some useful output. 
For every 440 picofarads swing, 20 watts flows.
This is at high voltage and low current AC and has to be stepped down (e.g. 12 volts) where the current rises to something useful.

    Thus the small drive motor “feels” no work other than very small bearing and air friction. The output of the machine has no relationship to the rotational energy requirements of the drive motor, so the word “efficiency” has no meaning. Efficiency, normally applies to the ratio between input power and output power.

    My machine consists of two rotary capacitors, but a practical output machine would have many sets of rotary caps. My present prototype has two rotors of Perspex (acrylic) 300mm in diameter sandwitched between two square “plates” as the stators on the left, and the same on the right. These two rotor discs are connected via a shaft with insulated coupling in the centre. The rotors have 6 “petals” of aluminium foil on them (both sides) as do the inner sides of the stator plates. The acrylic is all 4mm thick. The stators have a covering on their surfaces of 2mm thick acrylic to prevent arc-over, as a high voltage exists here. When one rotors petals are exactly in line with its stator petals, (fully meshed) position, this rotary capacitor is at its maximum capacitance. At the same time, the other rotary cap. is fully unmeshed and at its lowest capacitance. In other words, both rotary capacitors are always at 180 degrees out of synch. with each other. An initial HT charge is placed on the machine from a momentary external supply, then removed. The load, is connected in series with both the rotors. As the rotors are rotated, the fully meshed capacitor is unmeshed while the other rotor is now going into mesh. This causes the unmeshing rotor to transfer its charge over to the meshing capacitor. This results in an AC current going back and forth between the two rotary capacitors indefinitely. The power is high voltage at low current, so to be a practical output, it needs to be stepped down via a transformer to something useful e.g. 12 volts, whilst at the same time, the current rises to again something useful. I, without using a step-down transformer, used two 8 watt fluo. tubes in series as a load. These stayed illuminated for 4 hours without diminishing in brightness, till I stopped the test. Because my machine is only small, there is not enough output to “close the loop” i.e. take the output and feed it to the drive motor to make the system self-sustaining. A larger machine would have enough output to be self sustaining.

    If this was yet just another alternator, there would be no point to it. THE point of this machine, is that it has no back-torque – in other words, the drive motor has no work to do as in conventional alternators where you have to fight the drag of the back-emf. The following, is the secret of cancellation of all back torque: The unmeshing rotor, DOES experience electrostatic back drag, BUT at this same instant, the rotor going INTO mesh, experiences attraction assistance electrostatic pull in closing. These two forces are identical and so CANCEL EACH OTHER OUT !!! At 300 rpm, the machine outputs 50 hz. For a greater output machine, there are several options. Increase the rpm. Increase the number of pairs of rotary capacitors. Increase the diameter of the rotors. Reduce the air gap between the rotors and the stators.

    I believe Doubling the diameter of the rotors provides FOUR TIMES the output. Halving the air gap provides FOUR TIMES the output. Doubling the rpm, doubles the output. Because of imperfect insulation etc. the machine would loose 9 microamps, however, the machine also acts as a DC generator and keeps the HT charge topped up. There is no heat in this machine and it is very quiet to run. I have experimented with many variables in the number of aluminium foil petals, but it appears that 6 is the optimum. If you are interested in building this machine, I can also supply photographs and the associated circuit diagrams.

    As you know, capacitors are open-circuit devices, so cannot loose their charge. My circuit never has a capacitor connected via its terminals directly to the load. Instead, the capacitors are connected in series and in series with the load. The load only gets power when the rotary capacitors are actually rotating and sending the current back and forth between them There ARE losses, but the machine also works as a HT DC generator which tops up the otherwise wasted HT losses.
    Last edited by Turion; 02-03-2014, 10:07 PM.
    “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
    —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

  • #2
    Images and schematics

    Here is all the information I currently have. If you have intelligent questions, I will do my best to answer. I have packed up my prototype and shipped it off to my son the engineer to have him take a look at it, so I do not have a working model of this device at the present time. If you are interested in building it I can give you some hints that will help you out. Lowes has aluminum foil tape with a backing that peels off revealing an incredibly sticky surface underneath. It is worth your time to purchase a roll of this if you are serious about this project. I did find a very small electric motor with a shaft coming out of each end that I used for this. Unfortunately it is in the mail to my son and I do not have the make and model number at hand. I can probably get it, but any electric motor will work. You must make sure that the rotor on one side is electrically isolated from the rotor on the other side by plastic or rubber of some kind as Steele explained in his directions. I used plastic connectors I drilled out of some solid plastic that would fit the motor shaft and the drive shaft on the other end, so both shafts coming out of my motor had these plastic "adaptors" connecting them to the drive shafts the rotors were on.

    These SHOULD be links to specs and pictures in photo bucket. It is the first time I have used it, so if it doesn't work, let me know and I will do my best to fix it.


    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psae2aa229.png
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9020ec57.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps1a728df0.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5d7d4aa6.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5635d687.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps5635d687.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps61997cfb.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...pse70a67af.jpg
    http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psae2aa229.png

    Good luck all. I will shoot some pictures and video of my larger replication as it progresses.

    Dave
    “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
    —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

    Comment


    • #3
      Hello Turion
      very interested in this device.
      About the use CDs for the rotor,I wonder if the different dielectric constant of methacrylate vs. polycarbonate would be an isue here. (as well as acrylic which is the aluminium face protective coat)
      Dielectric Constant of some common Liquids

      thanks for your sharing
      Alvaro

      Comment


      • #4
        You are absolutely correct. I had not considered the dialectic properties of the two different materials. The CD could be far worse, equal, or better, and I have no idea which. Thickness of the dialectic could also be a problem. In addition, it probably has a metallic coating which defeats the purpose of the "petals" on the rotor. Unless of course you were to spray coat the rotor with something to cover up the metallic coating. But probably more trouble than it is worth. I shouldn't have suggested it.

        Dave
        Last edited by Turion; 02-03-2014, 09:13 PM.
        “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
        —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

        Comment


        • #5
          As I see many possibilities in this, I´m designing all the plastic pieces to be laser cuted at a local shop that makes neon and lighted signs. They accept the drawings in CAD as well in Corel vectorial drawing files. No circuit boards available here.
          I`ll start with a 21x21 cm. stator.
          I´m not sure about the proportion of the rotor area vs. the stator area. (I suspect there is an optimum ratio for max. efficiency)
          Also the thickness of pieces and clearances are a variable.
          If the rotor has the alum. coat in one face, the distance from the two stator plates will be unequal (got to think about). May be making the rotor with a pair of 2 mm. discs. alum sheet in the middle, and glued together=no isolation at the stator needed.
          Lots of questions

          Alvaro

          Comment


          • #6
            interdesign21,

            If you look at the info posted above, I think he details the thicknesses of the plastic. If you look at the pictures you can get a pretty good idea of the size of the stators size of rotors. Remember, the ENTIRE SURFACE of the stator is covered with aluminum foil except for the cutout of the rotor shape. He also talks about clearances, because high voltage static will go around corners to make a connection.

            Here is some additional information from Steele that I got today, and from now on I am going to put info from him in red so it will be easy to pick out from all the babble on these threads.

            A difficulty arises when you wish to step down the high voltage swing to a lower voltage with practical current, in that transformers are not 100% efficient.
            The neon sign transformers for instance are particularly “lossy”, in as much as they have an intentional air gap in the laminations at one position.
            This prevents huge currents from flowing when normally connected to a neon sign, as once the tube “strikes”, this represents almost a short, so this is how the current is limited.
            You need to use a conventional transformer without this air gap in the lams.
            You may be able to get one, otherwise you will need to get one specially fabricated, which is unfortunately not cheap!
            I don’t know of any other way of stepping down a high voltage, but there may be some way I haven’t heard of.
            Of course if you just want to illuminate fluo. tubes as a load, then this is no problem, as you just series up as many tubes as you like.
            Each tube probably strkes at 500 to 600 volts, so many tubes can be put in series.
            However, if you want to produce a self-sustaining machine, you must of course have a suitable low voltage for the drive motor, hence the step-down transformer.
            “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
            —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

            Comment


            • #7
              Stepdown

              One could use a car ignition coil in reverse.

              This has been shown in youtubes reducing HV from wimshursts to useable low voltages.

              Maybe a way out.

              Cheers, Garry

              Comment


              • #8
                Car Ignition Coil

                Thanks Gary. I will have to give that a shot.

                Dave
                “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                Comment


                • #9
                  Electrostatic stepdown transformer

                  Hi

                  The video here:

                  How-to make a electrostatic step-down transformer, converts electrostatic to low voltage DC. - YouTube

                  shows a novel way of stepping down voltage from electrostatic source.

                  Regards

                  John
                  Last edited by john_g; 02-04-2014, 06:59 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Video

                    Hi John, my screen just shows a blank, for your video, was it attached?
                    Dave , this sounds too easy.
                    Are the rotor and stator just layers of offset pieces of foil (by 30 degrees).
                    Which cause some kind of reaction , or maybe a vibration...?
                    The way I understand it is , it requires a magnetic field of some sort , to influence a reaction.
                    Does spinning certain types of metal , create magnetic fields?
                    I just thought of something , the Earths' magnetic field , or the universes, is always present.
                    Since it's typed ,I'll post it.
                    artv

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Hi Dave and all,

                      Could this be close? I think I could modify this rotary capacitor setup that I built a year or two ago to provide an output from a don smith device.

                      [IMG][/IMG]

                      For a transformer, I planned on using a pole pig step down transformer (~13 kv to 240 volts ac). However, I found no step down induction taking place through my NST so I thought that the rotary cap was not large enough (10 inches dia.).

                      What transformer have you or Braden used successfully?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Shylo,
                        If you think about it, it works much the same way the Tesla switch works. A charge on one side moves through the load to a lower voltage storage device. Once that one is filled up, you reverse and move it back through the load to the other side. The caps continue to rotate creating electrostatic charge that fills them up. It IS SIMPLE. The question is, will it produce enough energy when scaled up to self run and continue to run decent loads. Since little strain is put on the motor by the addition of more rotors….since once you get it up to speed most of the work is done…I'd say there is a good chance. You double the output whenever you add rotors and do not double the work required to move them.

                        kenssurplus,
                        Hard to tell from that picture, but I do know Steele has said that 6 petals is the optimum number. If you just want proof of concept, I'd say go for it with what you have. If you want to build a device that is self sustaining, I'd say you are better off starting from scratch. Steele has put many years into this guys, so change it at your own peril. You MIGHT come up with something better, or it might be something far worse.

                        NEITHER Steele or myself have tried stepping down the voltage to something usable.

                        Dave
                        “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                        —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          A thought

                          When I first got together with Steele about this generator, I immediately thought about the possibility that some of the electrostatic charge that is created on the plates might escape into the atmosphere…..and Lasersabre has a motor that runs on electrostatic charge. You don't need much of a motor to run this generator so it might be a perfect match. I PM'd Lasersabre to see if he would manufacture the necessary parts for his motor with his 3D printer and I would buy them from him, but I never got a response. Anyone who knows him please put a large bug in his ear about this will ya?

                          I just got a PM about his motor and I agree that they would go together perfectly.

                          Dave
                          “Advances are made by answering questions. Discoveries are made by questioning answers.”
                          —Bernhard Haisch, Astrophysicist

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by shylo View Post
                            Hi John, my screen just shows a blank, for your video, was it attached?
                            Dave , this sounds too easy.
                            Are the rotor and stator just layers of offset pieces of foil (by 30 degrees).
                            Which cause some kind of reaction , or maybe a vibration...?
                            The way I understand it is , it requires a magnetic field of some sort , to influence a reaction.
                            Does spinning certain types of metal , create magnetic fields?
                            I just thought of something , the Earths' magnetic field , or the universes, is always present.
                            Since it's typed ,I'll post it.
                            artv
                            Link is here:

                            How-to make a electrostatic step-down transformer, converts electrostatic to low voltage DC. - YouTube

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Atmospheric Motor.

                              I watched the video 3D Printed AtmoMotor Updates and Experiments - Upcoming 3D printer giveaway! - YouTube today and it does have torque when he uses the Vandegraff generator to power it. Most of the components were 3D printed from CAD drawings that he offers for download in the comments:

                              Published on Jan 29, 2014

                              3D Printed AtmoMotor Updates and Experiments - Upcoming 3D printer giveaway! . A high torque atmospheric motor. First tests underway. Also features the build process. Link to parts and 3D files at:

                              AtmoMotor torque testing - 3D printer giveaway coming up - free atmospheric electricity - charged water runs motor - ladybug levitation - antenna testing - V.

                              In this video I tried to load the system up with a motor. While it does dim everything down, all the receivers from previous videos are running, The motor is.

                              The giveaway ends 2/20/2014. On that date one person will be selected to receive the 3D printer. Shipping must be paid by the winner. The winner will be cont.

                              Take care,

                              Michel
                              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

                              Comment

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