Insulation Protocol
Dear Velacreations,
I know what you mean about this one. It took me years to figure out why my early attempts failed. This circuit, straight out of Tesla's Radiant Energy patents, collects a "quality" of electricity that is quite different than the kind you are used to. It's more like a dynamic form of static electricity. Its relationship to the environment is quite active, and any aggregation of the charge tends to leak back to the environment quickly, if allowed.
The TRICK for making it work is what I call the "insulation protocol". The elevated wire is best if it is bare. It must be suspended on glass insulators, like old soda bottles. Even the outside "shiny surface" of a PVC pipe will discharge the energy. The capacitor must be insulated to 10kv, with very low leakage. The elevated wire coming into the capacitor must not touch anything except the air, the glass insulators and the capacitor connection. Even the moisture in a wooden base will discharge the energy. The ground connection must be a significant copper bar sunk into the ground a couple of feet.
Set the spark gap to about .015" to keep the voltages down and use a full-wave bridge instead of a single diode.
The length of the elevated wire, its height off the ground, and the local weather conditions will determine the amount of energy available at any given time. Conditions with an overcast sky, still air and high humidity work the worst. Sunny, low humidity conditions work well, but certain foggy conditions with a slight breeze, or even cold, light snow fall, can produce ferocious outputs. People can get hurt under these circumstances, so a second, safety spark-gap directly to ground, is usually installed.
So, that is the TRICK, as you have asked for it. Any Ham Radio operator can verify this criteria.
Best regards,
Peter
Originally posted by velacreations
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I know what you mean about this one. It took me years to figure out why my early attempts failed. This circuit, straight out of Tesla's Radiant Energy patents, collects a "quality" of electricity that is quite different than the kind you are used to. It's more like a dynamic form of static electricity. Its relationship to the environment is quite active, and any aggregation of the charge tends to leak back to the environment quickly, if allowed.
The TRICK for making it work is what I call the "insulation protocol". The elevated wire is best if it is bare. It must be suspended on glass insulators, like old soda bottles. Even the outside "shiny surface" of a PVC pipe will discharge the energy. The capacitor must be insulated to 10kv, with very low leakage. The elevated wire coming into the capacitor must not touch anything except the air, the glass insulators and the capacitor connection. Even the moisture in a wooden base will discharge the energy. The ground connection must be a significant copper bar sunk into the ground a couple of feet.
Set the spark gap to about .015" to keep the voltages down and use a full-wave bridge instead of a single diode.
The length of the elevated wire, its height off the ground, and the local weather conditions will determine the amount of energy available at any given time. Conditions with an overcast sky, still air and high humidity work the worst. Sunny, low humidity conditions work well, but certain foggy conditions with a slight breeze, or even cold, light snow fall, can produce ferocious outputs. People can get hurt under these circumstances, so a second, safety spark-gap directly to ground, is usually installed.
So, that is the TRICK, as you have asked for it. Any Ham Radio operator can verify this criteria.
Best regards,
Peter
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