My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Dwane]

Hi UFO,
Thank you for taking the time to explain to me what I require!

I have been a bit lazy. I had not reached Page 96 where you show a link to a video that is very similar to what I am hoping to be doing. http://www.energeticforum.com/redire...ure%3Dyoutu.be.

Am I correct in seeing that you are using the driven generator to charge the batteries? Your accent is a bit thick for me to understand at times also with the noise from the coupled drive.

I like the solution above by GlenWV using all north poles. Somewhat similar to the output of John Bedini's free energy generator. But, in this case using dedicated wound coils to explicitly get the job done.

This is looking good for the design I am working with.

Thank you

Dwane

[Dwane]

Is this suitable?

Hi UFO,
Please excuse my comments on your accent, I have a slight hearing impediment and miss bits of speech. The video is excellent!

I picked up this Baldor armature for another project - now shelved - a couple of years ago. I have no stator for it. It was rescued from a burnt out motor. It has 28 windings and 56 commutator sections, so I am pleased to see the wiring for this configuration has been demonstrated. It is a heavy cow! It might originally been 3HP.at 90 volts or180 volts. I got it from my local motor winders who were given it as a repair job that did not proceed.

What has really taken my fancy is your fibre glass stator. Do you think that I would be able to run this armature as you have shown in your videos with a fibre glass stator. I am hoping to utilise it similarly to your combination drive generator page 96.

Also, when rewinding this as asymetric, would I use the same guage of wire that is already on the armature?

Many thanks

Dwane

[GlenWV]

P66 Armature Wind

Greetings all;

At long last, I have the armature ready to go.

It has been balanced in a motor shop and I hope to get the motor reassembled next weekend.

Next, a suitable mount will have to be constructed....

That is, once I figure out what to hook it to.

Lot's of testing first though.

What an interesting project!! Thank you Mr. UFOPolitics!

GlenWV

[BroMikey]

Guess it is part of the balancing process to sand-smooth the outer rotor steel laminates, meaning to lathe-cut-rectify the green epoxy so it runs smooth within stators right?


Ufopolitics

I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator. But now that I
have it seems like the idea here would be to feed one end power in
and the other end or the other commutator would be connected in a
way to power something. A sort of rotating input output motor-Gen.

I guess I just never saw one before. I'll bet you could have field day
running a 3 battery split pos system on each end

Is this design from 2014? Is there a self running machine? Or
are you still testing possibilities?

[GlenWV]

I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator. But now that I
have it seems like the idea here would be to feed one end power in
and the other end or the other commutator would be connected in a
way to power something. A sort of rotating input output motor-Gen.

I guess I just never saw one before. I'll bet you could have field day
running a 3 battery split pos system on each end

Is this design from 2014? Is there a self running machine? Or
are you still testing possibilities?

Hi Mike,

If you go back to the beginning of this thread and take a look at the small 9VDC motors being experimented with, you will get the idea about what is going on here.

Think Left to Right. Voltage comes in via the Left brush and exits via the Right brush on the same side. See UFO's many fine drawings and it will become clear.

Get two small motors and make one dual commutator motor from them. Then, graduate to something like the P56 that Mr. UFO recommends. About any DC motor will do, and commutators aren't expensive. (You need two motors to get end caps and brush rigging.)

I used the long shaft so as to be able to get work from both ends, kinda like a bench grinder.

Your local trade school is a good place to have a longer shaft fabricated and installed if you don't have the tools to do it yourself. (I often get the work done pretty much for free.)

Enjoy!!

glen

[BroMikey]

Hi Mike,

If you go back to the beginning of this thread and take a look at the
small 9VDC motors being experimented with, you will get the idea about
what is going on here.

Thanks Glen

Been doing some video's too

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bBLguuBTuQ

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[bistander]

Been there

I have never seen a double ended rotor commutator.

Guess you weren't paying attention or forgot Ufo explained it for you.

Hello BroMikey and welcome,

This is about a New Methodology and not just a different way to wind an existing motor "as is"...I will try to explain as a "Generalization". However, "a simple answer"



We build Motors here, where "unused" Energy flows out, back to our sources to be utilized or stored back.

We enhance Motor Performance with this new tech, where Torque and Speed Parameters no longer co-exist as Inversely Proportional (meaning we can only have one Parameter at top performance, sacrificing the second one to lower spec's)...but directly proportional, where Speed and Torque are achieved equally in an ascending curve.

This type of Motors would "take" higher potentials ranges (Voltages) as higher densities of Currents (Amperage) where Closed Systems could never afford to "process", since they are limited by closed looping of its rotor coils.

STRUCTURAL MODIFYING

Motors structure must be modified, as adding a second commutator on the other side of rotor shaft, in some cases shaft must be replaced by a longer one, as outer casing/housing also must be "elongated" to fit the dual commutators rotor assembly.

COILS WINDING

Once structure is modified, then winding process is also different from existing motors.

On any existing Motor the winding is a continuous series looping that closes at the end of last wound coil, meaning, all wires are short circuited...or called "Closed Winding".

In my Methodology Coils are Isolated or "Open" related to next ones in the Sequence. In order that each coil gets Energized separately when making contact, then by an action of either repulse or attract, or both, it automatically/mechanically, disconnects from contact, pushing or pulling next Coil in line. Disconnected Coils travel to a second Gate-Brush, where it "exhaust" its charge as an output.

This way All Coils get a "brake" or an "idling" stage at disconnection, cooling off, plus getting induced by traveling in front of Stators Magnetic Fields, then reaching Output Stage.

Did You see my video ASYMMETRY TO ENLIGHTENMENT ?

Did You read my ABSTRACT at Introduction First Page of this Thread?:



Hope this post will help you to understand it better...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hi UFO,
Please excuse my comments on your accent, I have a slight hearing impediment and miss bits of speech. The video is excellent!

Hello Dwane,

Please don't worry about my accent...I know it is terrible!, and believe me...I can make it even worst...so that was kind of "refined"...

I picked up this Baldor armature for another project - now shelved - a couple of years ago. I have no stator for it. It was rescued from a burnt out motor. It has 28 windings and 56 commutator sections, so I am pleased to see the wiring for this configuration has been demonstrated. It is a heavy cow! It might originally been 3HP.at 90 volts or180 volts. I got it from my local motor winders who were given it as a repair job that did not proceed.

The thing is...could you get another identical commutator from Baldor?

I believe if you had the model number or serial number of motor it would make the part (comm) search much easier.

What has really taken my fancy is your fibre glass stator. Do you think that I would be able to run this armature as you have shown in your videos with a fibre glass stator. I am hoping to utilise it similarly to your combination drive generator page 96.

I honestly have NOT tested that fiberglass Stator (Air Core) on a Mechanically LOADED Motor...and since it does not have a steel core...IMHO I believe it would not be as strong as with a laminated steel core related to Torque spec's.

Also, when rewinding this as asymetric, would I use the same guage of wire that is already on the armature?

Many thanks

Dwane

The wire gauge would be dictated by your Source (Power Supply) plus the Application where you would be using it for.

A heavy gauge wire (lesser turns per Coil) would have low resistance, therefore, amps would be higher, with lower voltage application, (like Automotive Motors) torque would be higher, since magnetic field would be very strong.

A fine wire (many turns per coil) would require higher voltage with lesser amps to build the required field to perform properly with such heavy armature.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Greetings all;

At long last, I have the armature ready to go.

It has been balanced in a motor shop and I hope to get the motor reassembled next weekend.

Next, a suitable mount will have to be constructed....

That is, once I figure out what to hook it to.

Lot's of testing first though.

What an interesting project!! Thank you Mr. UFOPolitics!

GlenWV

My pleasure Glen, looking forward to see that beautiful monster running...

Make sure to check continuity-resistance in each coil (or coils groups, if that's the case) contact between comm elements plus alignment.

Also check your stator's magnet polarity orientation (N-S-N-S), related to your desired rotation sense versus the feeding (Input) brushes positioning to fire each coil group.

An All North Wound Machine of that kind is unique on its class -at least on this Forum-...and it should run superb, when synchronized-tuned with high precision, thing I know you would do an excellent job on...!


Regards


Ufopolitics

[BroMikey]

Yes i remember that entry but never equated it to the machines
as shown in this post. The "WITCH" video meant little to me at the time
but now that I had time to see and read the entire video, I am realizing
more.

I am just starting to grasp the UFO message after doing the Matt Jones
motor and seeing success. I needed a simple task to help me get my foot
in the door. It is becoming so clear. This UFO video is a must, take the time
to read and go over the material in it. Otherwise you missed the starting
gun firing and you will not understand much of the other video's.

I see now that these concepts are all over the standard COP of .25 so
it should be easy to go OU.

The magic spell of lies, deceit and malice are melting away like butter.

UFO is willing to take it on the chin I see

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj4rV0AoI-Q

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[jazzzyro]

How to mount commutators

Hello UFO,
can you post a step-by-step tutorial in which we can see how you remove the old commutator, how you mount the second one and how you align them. The list of tools needed is very appreciated for those who are beginners in this area and want to make a prototype.

I tried to remove the commutator and I break it immediately...

Thanks a lot!

J.

[Ufopolitics]

Commutator R&I

Hello UFO,
can you post a step-by-step tutorial in which we can see how you remove the old commutator, how you mount the second one and how you align them. The list of tools needed is very appreciated for those who are beginners in this area and want to make a prototype.

I tried to remove the commutator and I break it immediately...

Thanks a lot!

J.

Hello J,

There are several posts on this thread dedicated to comm removal and re-installation.

Basically the main issue here is that you can NOT push commutator outwards by pressing on any of its outer elements base area (bottom)...If you do it so, it will create an uneven force and will definitively brake it.

You must reach its center bottom ring right next to shaft to make an even push out of armature, and so depending on the size, you could use one of the "Y" type crow bars.

Normally this type of Y Crow bars are used in automotive to remove plastic clips off door panels or any other fastener which have a flat head...so, again, depending on your comm-shaft diameter size, you will need that specific size tool.

And so, you will need TWO of them, one just to be used as the base and the other to eject commutator from bottom ring base, resting on the first one.

It is -even this way- a very careful operation, since commutators are made of bakelite which is very brittle.

Sometimes you must remove (cut off) the windings in order to allow full access to the bottom comm ring.


Regards and good luck.


Ufopolitics

[sampojo]

My old baldor

Well retired now and a little more time to do things. I have a Baldor industrial DC dual brush 20 pole motor I have been working on and now finished. The commutator design featured reusable spade connectors, whose photos I have posted previously on the thread. Boy did they come in handy as I had to rewire the motor several times. I could not fit enough wire by just lowering it a guage or two from the original 19ga size to get 1ohm of copper wire on it. I calculated the area of the pole gap and the area of the wire plus gaps between round wires, but ended up having to apply a 2.0 correction factor to double the amount of wasted space in a wound coil. I looked into first a quad filar, the a 5-filar 28ga wire to give me the same surface area of the original 19 gauge wire, hoping for more current carrying capacity. As I wound it it looked like it was not going to fill the rotor sufficiently by coil 6. I test wound 24 gauge wire hoping to do a bifilar, but I lost the results. Later I perfected a spread sheet to calculate how many strands of wire were going to be used. If I hadnt lost my test result I would have seen I couldn't get enough wire in again. I got to coil 10 and I could then see it wasn't gonna fit again. So tired of making multifilar wire, and having a better estimate of wasted space, I thought 23 gauge would fit, single strand. But again got to coil 10 and thought it wouldn't fit. So then I did the next 6 coils with my old 5-filar 28ga wire that I saved. At coil 16 it sitll didnt look good and changed to single strand 24 gauge and managed to finish. I always wound in pairs of coils, first coil 1 then coil 11 balancing it with the same wire and wire lay on the coils. Here is my coil winding work sheet and a picture of the rotor.





Assembled





I explored adding an additional brush set to try to tap the coil disconnect BEMF spark energy (red and green wires), but they did not work and just dragged some emf energy out of the system instead. I should probably play with the timing as it is assemble to run in the normal mode.

so pretty much as usual with Ufo Asym motors looks to perform astoundingly better than standard Edison style motors. I have a standard Baldor motor of the same type and hooked them all up and tested both and here is my first results:

Using 24 volts

Standard Baldor rpm 400
Asym Baldor rpm 1400

Now my Baldor I built it to have a 1.1 ohm resistance per coil, instead of the standard 1.0 recommended by Ufo, as I was worried about how hot some of my motors were in the past. But I have checked on the motor magnets, and they seem to hold their magnetism until 400 deg Celsius, or around 700 deg F. So it seems standard magnets will hold and it is no big deal for motors to run at hot to the touch temps, with good wiring and bearings.

[sampojo]

Additional performance data on my Baldor motor.

I had gotten my hands on another 12v battery when my car needed a new one and got some of my UPS batteries together too. So I have run some more tests on my Baldor up to 48v. I thought I would post the data.

Baldor Asymm Performance Data and comparison to OE *
Test date voltage Baldor Asym RPM OE RPM
03/12/18 24 1400 400
07/07/18 36 2350 870
07/07/18 48 3050 1200

* Baldor Asym data for both brushsets powered

I am getting almost triple the performance from the OE motor!! Built around a 1.1ohm winding, I am sure the amperage consumption is better the the normal asym motor here, as for instance, Ufo's Imperial.

there is a Baldor office in the Philadelphia area near me. I would love to show this to someone there!

I remember how Ufo's Imperial motor did around 3400 rpm on 48v, but mine is only a dual brushset, while his is a quad.

[Ufopolitics]

I had gotten my hands on another 12v battery when my car needed a new one and got some of my UPS batteries together too. So I have run some more tests on my Baldor up to 48v. I thought I would post the data.

Baldor Asymm Performance Data and comparison to OE *
Test date voltage Baldor Asym RPM OE RPM
03/12/18 24 1400 400
07/07/18 36 2350 870
07/07/18 48 3050 1200

* Baldor Asym data for both brushsets powered

I am getting almost triple the performance from the OE motor!! Built around a 1.1ohm winding, I am sure the amperage consumption is better the the normal asym motor here, as for instance, Ufo's Imperial.

there is a Baldor office in the Philadelphia area near me. I would love to show this to someone there!

I remember how Ufo's Imperial motor did around 3400 rpm on 48v, but mine is only a dual brushset, while his is a quad.

Sampojo!!!

Great to see ya around old friend...and kicking...

Best Regards


Ufopolitics