My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Machine...

UFO

I got my parts today, so hopefully, I'll get at the drivers this week. I'll post on the other thread, until I get something working.

UFO or Cornboy

This is the last time I'll post here, about the Figuera generator, unless you want me to post here, but I have couple questions. So, I have a big 4 pole for outer stator. We are not sure how big of space we can allow for middle rotor, which we can spin or not, but I will spin, the dynamic version. Cornboy you mentioned 15 mm maybe. Then we have our inner coils.
Now my questions,
1. The inner coils are also stationary, or do they spin with middle section(rotor)? I thought they were stationary, and only middle section spins.
2. How many coils should the rotor have,middle section.
3. If I make the same 4 poles for inner section, with exact same size coils that is in the outer stator, what should the length of middle coils be, 1:1/4 with 4 x diameter of stator coils?

The stator coils will be huge, maybe we could go 2-3" for air gap.

Johnstone

Hope you had a nice trip, glad you're back. If my drivers still don't work, I'm going to make a vid of the drivers switching lamps, with scope at gate, and source and drain, maybe you could analyze. I don't want to bug Dana, as he is already very busy. I re-did the grounds, lets see what she'll do.

Machine

Hello My Dear Friend Machine,

This is the last time I'll post here, about the Figuera generator, unless you want me to post here

You CAN post here...as many times as you please about the Clemente Figuera Generator...As We will be very soon "fusing" My First Thread here and this one...with some Static and Dynamic Coils play from Figuera's Patents...

Now, about the air gap...

You must realize by looking either at your Mecc Alte or This huge Generator...that the Air Gap is given by the "STEEL TO STEEL" GAP...HOWEVER...IF you look at Coils-Wires Positioning, related to Steel end Surfaces...will be looking at THE REAL AIR GAPS BETWEEN COPPER TO COPPER...

Then, We realize that Steel at front ends...could be reduced...grind, shaved to a minimal sheet like end of the "T"...Allowing Us more room to insert the rotor...

Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Crawler.

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Hello everyone, i know it's off topic, but just wanted to share some pics of what i have been working on for the last two months.

We just had another 6 inches of rain, which delayed me a bit, i just have to mulch cover the last 4 rows, which i hope to have finished today, then a few minor jobs, and it's onto the MAG3 build.

The rows are 110mt long, and you will never guess how many rows i finished up with?

This crop was all planted by hand, i found the easiest way was to crawl on hands and knees, so in two months i slowly crawled 3960 meters.

I will be planting double that amount next year, so will need some help.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[Midaztouch]

Peaceful!

@ Cornboy

Your pics look so pleasant and peaceful! Pretty skies, fresh air, healthy earth and green

Enjoy

Keep it Clean and Green
Richie

[machinealive]

Hello

Well, I ended up smoking fets once more, at 24 v, with 3lamps in parallel, and each 3, in series with each of the motor coils, so 12lamps total. At 24 v, 1lamp in series, lamps worked, but motor wouldn't spin. I hoped I only needed more current, bummer. I'm getting killed with HV spikes.

Dana has given me something to try. If it doesn't help, I'm going to order 3 more Hg switches tomorrow, and finish this. The end.

I really want to start the Figuera gen. UFO, if I removed the end of the stator poles, I would have about 0.58", between rotor, and stator, minus the end plate I would add. Also the rotor is 9.8" dia., but 37 pole unfortunately.

Nice Cornboy, are your rows raised or just mulched high? Do you grow next years mulch between your rows, of something to protect from the rains? I have 3 acres of gardens, I grow most of my own food on, besides the woods, I'll have to post my big sugar maple stand, big old trees, some are 300 years old, sacred .

Machine

[sampojo]

Reply to Kogs on QP10 winding post 5059

G'day UFO
I was interested in wiring a 10 pole 4 stator with 2 pairs of brushes the only winding diagram similar is this one

Quad Pentagon 10-pole winding diagram

HI Kogs,
I posted a winding video:
Post 4866

Some pics rotor finished Post 4936

Ufo's originating design info post 4238

In this family of Ufo's Y pentagon winding patterns, it is necessary to wind the south half coils first, handling several spools of wire. Ufo thought you might have to handle all 10 coil spools on the 10-pole rotor but I found you only need to do 5 before you can start on your first North pole to complete a coil, which I attempt to show in my video.

[Cornboy 555]

Monsters.

Hello

Well, I ended up smoking fets once more, at 24 v, with 3lamps in parallel, and each 3, in series with each of the motor coils, so 12lamps total. At 24 v, 1lamp in series, lamps worked, but motor wouldn't spin. I hoped I only needed more current, bummer. I'm getting killed with HV spikes.

Dana has given me something to try. If it doesn't help, I'm going to order 3 more Hg switches tomorrow, and finish this. The end.

I really want to start the Figuera gen. UFO, if I removed the end of the stator poles, I would have about 0.58", between rotor, and stator, minus the end plate I would add. Also the rotor is 9.8" dia., but 37 pole unfortunately.

Nice Cornboy, are your rows raised or just mulched high? Do you grow next years mulch between your rows, of something to protect from the rains? I have 3 acres of gardens, I grow most of my own food on, besides the woods, I'll have to post my big sugar maple stand, big old trees, some are 300 years old, sacred .

Machine

Hello Machine, not good news about you pulser set up friend, i don't think that HG relays are going to last any length of time, and you will need the tuneable finess, of the monsters for down the road, with every thing that we do from now on.

My sugesstion is to wait till either Sampojo, or Hitby have commercially available boards, so you can keep it really neat and tidy for troubleshooting.

Also i would mount neons accros drain and source, to see if there are overzelous, reverse flows happening, or if you may have a problem with all your wires causing, spurilous ossicillations to your gates, and overloading them.

I don't know much about electronics, Machine, but our illustrious Mr John Stone, stressed many times about wires acting like anntenas.

The Garlic beds are on level ground, and heavily mulched, for weed suppression and moisture retention, and at the end of the day the mulch is a vauable soil conditioner.

I have set aside, pastures i grow all year for mulch harvesting, which i do with a small PTO forrage harvester, i know the quality of the mulch input then, and also it would cost about
$3500.00 to buy in that amount of Certified Mulch.

Would love to see pics of your Maple trees, WOW.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[Cornboy 555]

Helping.

@ Sampojo, thanks so much for helping Kogs there, you are a champion.

How's the monster boards going?

@ Midastouch, thanks, it is a great lifestyle, if you like Phisical work.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[iankoglin]

Kogs MY1018 Rewind 10 pole 4 stator 2 brush pairs

HI Kogs,
I posted a winding video:
Post 4866

Some pics rotor finished Post 4936

Ufo's originating design info post 4238

In this family of Ufo's Y pentagon winding patterns, it is necessary to wind the south half coils first, handling several spools of wire. Ufo thought you might have to handle all 10 coil spools on the 10-pole rotor but I found you only need to do 5 before you can start on your first North pole to complete a coil, which I attempt to show in my video.

G'day Sampojo
Thanks for the info.
I am actually going to rewire a standard MY1018 Chinese motor that has 10 pole 4 stator 2 sets of brushes.
I do not want to put the extra commutator on the other end as it will extend the length and I don't want the extra length.
I will wind starting with P1 segment on the MLeft commutator Wind S1 then N1 finishing on MRight commutator P6

I will wind starting with P4 segment on the GP1commutator Wind S4 then N4 finishing on GP9 commutator P9

I know I really need to wind in series P1-P5,P2-P7,P3-P8,P4-P9, P5-P10
But after thinking about it for some time I am sure it will work
But only half the windings 5N and 5 S but double the wire
Kindest Regards

Kogs trying to work things out

[Lightworker1]

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Hello everyone, i know it's off topic, but just wanted to share some pics of what i have been working on for the last two months.

We just had another 6 inches of rain, which delayed me a bit, i just have to mulch cover the last 4 rows, which i hope to have finished today, then a few minor jobs, and it's onto the MAG3 build.

The rows are 110mt long, and you will never guess how many rows i finished up with?

This crop was all planted by hand, i found the easiest way was to crawl on hands and knees, so in two months i slowly crawled 3960 meters.

I will be planting double that amount next year, so will need some help.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

Hello Cornboy, you truly live with nature, nature around you and work with nature. Pretty place and understood it is a very hard work especially when you have do all by hand.
Once MAG3 is working as it should in the near future it will be help.
Also we are embarking with the micro-controllers like arduino etc, which are beginning helping us with asymmetric motor researches with control, data gathering etc.
In work farm work these controllers or ready made robots might become great help.
Here are videos I thought might be of interest.

Return and Repeat - Harvest Automation Develops Robots to do ..

Return and Repeat - Harvest Automation Develops Robots to do Farm Work - YouTube


Robots Are Awesome

Robots Are Awesome - YouTube


We are moving into really very interesting age with free energy.
Our UfoPolitics is also working on flying machines among others researches.

I will be soon presenting much more detailed analysis of my current project:
"Dual Pentagon Asymmetric Motor"

Good Luck to all our hard working members here

Warmest regards

light

--------------------
"Imagination is more important than knowledge."-Einstein

[IndianaBoys]

Cosmic Pipe

Cornboy,

Your fields are impressive!

Would enjoy seeing more pictures when you harvest.

You may like this:

Plans to build a Cosmic Pipe:
http://issuepedia.org/wikiup/d/de/Qubrcaster.pdf

Field broadcasting is an economical, effective way to continuously apply organizational patterns for robust environmental health to one’s land. This makes low-input, high-yield agriculture of the highest quality do-able for everyone.

As a stationary, self-driven instrument, a field broadcaster induces self-reinforcing, resonant fractal patterns as homeopathic potencies directly into the life energy fields of soil and atmosphere day and night, 365 days a year.

IndianaBoys

[Cornboy 555]

Cosmic.

Thanks I B, i used a radionic pipe for a few years, until a fencing contractor backed over it with his tractor, a very simple instrument, with sparsly wound coils and copper ground plate, also copper air, or antenna plate.

I used it because it seemed an easy way to broadcast the Bio-Dynamic preparations, over the farm, especially when i had a very busy buisness, as well as the farm.

These days i prefer to stir the preps, and spray them out, the way the peasents of old did, except that the acres i need to cover, it's not possible to hand stir, so i use a purpose built stirring machine.

This machine is built from copper sheet and stirs 60 gallons at a time, creating a deep vortex CW, and then very rapidly collapsing the vortex into caos, and then stirring a vortex in reverse CCW, and then collapsing, etc, etc, Rythmically for an hour, this allows all the enlivening Cosmic energy into the prep mix.

I double crop all my planted areas, have done for 6 years now, with no fertiliser inputs whatsoever, except the Bio-Dynamic preps, which cost $1.30 / acre / year.

I have managed to close the loop, on my farm, except for packageing, and of course ---- ENERGY ----. But i am working on that.

Warm Regards Cornboy.

[sampojo]

tricky geometry, QP10 run data

G'day Sampojo
Thanks for the info.
I am actually going to rewire a standard MY1018 Chinese motor that has 10 pole 4 stator 2 sets of brushes.
I do not want to put the extra commutator on the other end as it will extend the length and I don't want the extra length.
I will wind starting with P1 segment on the MLeft commutator Wind S1 then N1 finishing on MRight commutator P6

I will wind starting with P4 segment on the GP1commutator Wind S4 then N4 finishing on GP9 commutator P9

I know I really need to wind in series P1-P5,P2-P7,P3-P8,P4-P9, P5-P10
But after thinking about it for some time I am sure it will work
But only half the windings 5N and 5 S but double the wire
Kindest Regards

Kogs trying to work things out

Hey Kogs, Doing some thinking eh? That will get you in trouble! So I take it that the shaft is longer on one side and you plan to put the comms side by side? Or something like that? You are still using 2 commutators?

Took some data on my QP10 (1-3/4 Diameter) running on one brush set, motor held together with rubber bands.

12.7v, 1.0a, 8000rpm 92F hottest, unloaded. Wired it up according to the neutral timing diagram and it actually rotated exactly as UFO showed!! I had been running yesterday and it was using 3.2a, 110F Was I using the generator brushes? Did it break in a little? Was the polarity reversed? I tried different polarity and that was 3.6a. Very pleased with today's results.

Need to put on mounting brackets, drill 4 holes for brush set wiring, end cap fastener holes (8), wiring buss bar with 4 holes.

[Cornboy 555]

Love the dirt.

Hello Light, i don't know how robots would cope on my deeply plowed volcanic soil, after 10" of rain, there are some things that will always need to be done by human hands, and besides i love physical work, i had planned for a long time to be doing this type of work, in let's say, my senior years, to stay fit and strong and healthy.

I look forward to your testing, Lightworker.

[iankoglin]

Kogs My1018 Mods

Hey Kogs, Doing some thinking eh? That will get you in trouble! So I take it that the shaft is longer on one side and you plan to put the comms side by side? Or something like that? You are still using 2 commutators?

Took some data on my QP10 (1-3/4 Diameter) running on one brush set, motor held together with rubber bands.

12.7v, 1.0a, 8000rpm 92F hottest, unloaded. Wired it up according to the neutral timing diagram and it actually rotated exactly as UFO showed!! I had been running yesterday and it was using 3.2a, 110F Was I using the generator brushes? Did it break in a little? Was the polarity reversed? I tried different polarity and that was 3.6a. Very pleased with today's results.

Need to put on mounting brackets, drill 4 holes for brush set wiring, end cap fastener holes (8), wiring buss bar with 4 holes.

G'day Sampojo
It is a standard MY1018 Chinese motor I am only going to use the original motor there is only one commutator the only difference will be the asymmetric winding of the armature it will only have half the windings of the poles 1 commutator 10 segments /N&S windings = 5 windings.
I have to do another secular job and when I finish I will take a video of the original motor showing the amps in and out, the volts used to run the driver( JS's Monster5.1), the revs and a means to show the Force to stop the motor whilst it is running.
Then when I have finished modifying it Just the wiring of the Armature, make another video and collecting the same parameters as the original.
Then I will change the input instead of using one input to the both pairs of brushes I will use 2 monster drivers and the Arduino driving the separate pairs of brushes.
Then make another video and collecting the same parameters as the original
I will keep you posted

First I have to get this job out of the way


Kindest Regards to you

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Kogs

G'day Sampojo
It is a standard MY1018 Chinese motor I am only going to use the original motor there is only one commutator the only difference will be the asymmetric winding of the armature it will only have half the windings of the poles 1 commutator 10 segments /N&S windings = 5 windings.
I have to do another secular job and when I finish I will take a video of the original motor showing the amps in and out, the volts used to run the driver( JS's Monster5.1), the revs and a means to show the Force to stop the motor whilst it is running.
Then when I have finished modifying it Just the wiring of the Armature, make another video and collecting the same parameters as the original.
Then I will change the input instead of using one input to the both pairs of brushes I will use 2 monster drivers and the Arduino driving the separate pairs of brushes.
Then make another video and collecting the same parameters as the original
I will keep you posted

First I have to get this job out of the way


Kindest Regards to you

Hello Kogs,

I have been reading Your latest posts, after I responded to your very first, regarding this "New Arrangement" you are planning to build.

As also your exchange of posts with Sampojo...

As I (think) ...I understand what you are trying to do...

You are going to use JUST ONE COMMUTATOR in the Rotor...Right?

Ok, One way to do that, is posted on this Thread, but at the very beginning with a Three Pole small motor...and I did NOT do it...It was shown by another Member. And what He did, was to JOINT ALL bottom connections by taking them to a COMMON Negative Ground through Shaft...Meaning , Input POSITIVE to one of the Brushes...and Ground (Negative) of Motor Casing, would cause rotor to spin.
The other Brush...and Ground (if I remember correctly) would deliver "some" Output...and They lit an LED...small deal/project.

It has NOT been done in a bigger Scale Pole Set Up...thereafter...

I also have responded to that project...and In My Opinion...The Output would not be as High as Two Commutators, since Coils REVERSES POLARITY when disconnected (from Positive Input ONLY, in this case), so Output end, will be sending Positive to Common Ground...which will "subtract" instead of Adding...

The Other Way to do this, the One Commutator deal...would be to "Inject" through BOTH Brushes (Same Commutator) the Positive and the Negative, apart by 180 degrees, still keeping Coils Independent from each others...The only "problem" here...is that every 180º...Coils will receive a REVERSE INPUT...Therefore, You will be FORCING a B EMF/ C EMF...just like Symmetry does...and NO Output, of course.

Believe me, I have tried before, and I have even shown the Pictures of just one Commutator Rotor..and even more clever...by adding Diodes per Coils, to prevent the reversal...I also added "Dual Coils" (one to work only on reversal mode, to another/through Dual Diodes opposite flow) ...Unfortunately... it did NOT work as expected...it DID "Turn" though...

However, Kogs, I am NOT Trying to deviate/disappoint You from whatever you want to do...by all means, I may be wrong,...and maybe You find a Way none of Us all here, have thought about...and it could be a Big Time Winner...


I just felt I should Respond here to your Project and "Set all the proper Parameters/Answers/Guidance"...so Others do not get confused...thinking an Asymmetrical Machine could be done "easily" with just ONE Commutator...because it is NOT so...so far, and like I wrote above...maybe, my dear friend...You will find a suitable and successful way to do it...

And I hope so, knowing the experience and knowledge you have in Asymmetry...since you are here with me on this, since My First Thread on this Forum.


Wish you the best of luck and Warms regards


Ufopolitics