My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Lightworker1]

@UFO,

I did see some purple light in between brush and commutator. It is strange to me that I consistently get a lot of this purple light on the POSITIVE brush (red wire) only, none on the negative brush, even if I swap the polarity around. Nice to have an open system that allows a lot of flexibility and visibility.

Yeah I wish I had some carbon fiber for the brushes but that item is extremely expensive over here. I do have 2lbs of powdered graphite but don't know yet how to make it solid again. Perhaps some pencil lead will also work? Will try it later.


@Cornboy,

Yeah she's roaring to get out. I think she likes me!


@ JohnS,

Thanks for the tip!


Lester

Hello Lester, here is cheaper solution:

Carbon rods such as found in automatic pencil lead or in the interior of ordinary wooden pencils might be for now do the job. If you need pencil lead that is thicker than found in that sold for mechanical pencils, you may decide to extract the lead from a wooden pencil. This can be done by boiling the pencil in water for awhile to cause the two pieces of wooden sheathing to come apart. Sometimes carpenters use extra thick leaded pencils




I hope this is useful.

Nice Demo. Keep up with the good work.

Warmest regards

light

[machinealive]

Hello UFO, everyone

Man, I have been busy. Lots of stuff breaking at once. Anyway, Yes UFO, I should have been pulsing that switch, but I did in other videos, I really wanted to see the current, I did get a dc clamp meter es655, it doesn't say true rms but I am sure it is. In this vid, I have a amp meter on input, but gotta get another for output. I hooked up gen with the diode setup, but it must be on other phone,( it drew I think 90-110amps max), I'll download when I find it or do it again. This vid has the motor hooked up to gen at your full power out diagram, with out load and with load, then I relized the motor out volt was not on so I did one more rum at end to show what it was at. Things were getting pretty warm at that point, If you listen, you can here the switch frying at the very end.

Now, UFO, and everyone, It's gonna take me a while to get used to this here motor, and taking videos, and trying to set up shots so everything works, and everyone can see. I hope my vids will get better as time goes by, but setting up and editing, takes more time away from running my motor. Some people would have edited this and made taken more vids but time is limited.


I did a test with motor/gen at 51 v. which is how the motor/gen sits right now. So, I want to work on the diode setup and pulsing, need high amp dc switch, for mains. Need diodes and fets worth 200 amps, and 100v say for safe up to 36- 48 v.

imperial testing - YouTube

UFO, The batteries are stand by, silver alloy, I think 100 amphrs, but I got them used.

How is your testing going?, UFO


machinealive

[jeffy39]

alignment-measurements

Howdy UFO, All,
Some quick questions:
1) Does anyone know the IMP. spec. / dia. for the armature?
2) When aligning the comm, does a comm. segment center align
with an arm. pole center?
3) Would someone point me to the posting that showed the SKF
replacement bearings, please? (Or provide the part #s.)
I finally received my replacement kits. IMP's packing is still rather
faulty. Armature got chipped hitting end-edge of housing. 1 kit arrived
w/o dammage.
Best regards, jw

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Big Man!

Hello UFO, everyone

Man, I have been busy. Lots of stuff breaking at once. Anyway, Yes UFO, I should have been pulsing that switch, but I did in other videos, I really wanted to see the current, I did get a dc clamp meter es655, it doesn't say true rms but I am sure it is. In this vid, I have a amp meter on input, but gotta get another for output. I hooked up gen with the diode setup, but it must be on other phone,( it drew I think 90-110amps max), I'll download when I find it or do it again. This vid has the motor hooked up to gen at your full power out diagram, with out load and with load, then I relized the motor out volt was not on so I did one more rum at end to show what it was at. Things were getting pretty warm at that point, If you listen, you can here the switch frying at the very end.

Now, UFO, and everyone, It's gonna take me a while to get used to this here motor, and taking videos, and trying to set up shots so everything works, and everyone can see. I hope my vids will get better as time goes by, but setting up and editing, takes more time away from running my motor. Some people would have edited this and made taken more vids but time is limited.


I did a test with motor/gen at 51 v. which is how the motor/gen sits right now. So, I want to work on the diode setup and pulsing, need high amp dc switch, for mains. Need diodes and fets worth 200 amps, and 100v say for safe up to 36- 48 v.

imperial testing - YouTube

UFO, The batteries are stand by, silver alloy, I think 100 amphrs, but I got them used.

How is your testing going?, UFO


machinealive

Hello Machine Alive,

Great testing Man!...Congratulations!
Sorry about frying the Switch...

Now the Test with the Four Switches/Diodes went excellent!...

I see veryy low Amp Draw, and YES, Capacitors DID raise Up RPM's and created the expected delay time there...so, right on the MONEY!!

I know those Tachometers can become a pain in the neck!...that is why I took some time off this...and bought a Push On, PushOff small switch, could not find any Micro that would fit on Tach's circuit board and be used with factory switch knob...so I extended two small cables remotely to the switch...normally they are just two contacts there for the On switch...so you have to leave the factory on, and derive the remote switch...you have to press first factory switch...then remote On...and that's it...would be on as long as you want...some work...but worth it.


Now on the Motor-Generator Test:


I notice since first run, Generator is dragging Motor too low RPM's...that is why you blew that switch...and Motor will overheat.

So run first a test on both machines, separated electrically (disconnect caps bank and jumper between them at Pos-Neg and wires to Output) but mechanically connected...on My Diagram below:

[IMG][/IMG]

1-First apply batteries power (feed) Motor just like in Diagram between where it says "MOTOR OUTPUT"...and DO NOT CONNECT MOTOR INPUT...just feed through Motor Output...and verify Motor is running CCW.... IF it don't, that is a problem there...let me know.

2- Connect Power to Generator at the "GEN OUT", just like in Diagram Polarity...and Generator MUST TURN CW...

Now, I know this may sound silly...but we all get confused here, with two machines rotating face to face...(I keep looking at my watch all the time whenever I do this...)

If We are reading Clock direction on one Machine...Clock MUST BE FACING like Machine connecting shaft, for EACH Machine separate...Like Diagram below:

[IMG][/IMG]

So check on that part...to me, according to what I saw in your Motor Generator test...Machines are counter rotating to each others...may be I am wrong Machine...but that is not the way they "Couple"...it is much easier and smooth, while your Motor will increase when connected to Generator with this Diagram...so, if test 1 ans 2 went ok...then try swapping Motor output with Generator...and let me know.


And...My Friend!...You have done an EXCELLENT WORK THERE...for all of Us to see...so MANY, MANY THANKS!

My tests are also great...I will post some videos later on...

By the way...Your weather looks awesome!!...I miss that white snow!!...maybe not for you though...


Regards



Ufopolitics


EDIT_1: Machine, Did You realize I have displayed Generator Feed to Output reversed?...So, when you turn Generator with Motor, not interconnecting them , but separated...did you notice you get Negative Out through their positives...and Positive through their negatives?

Check that out also, please. I do not have a way to go and check it myself...since I do not have an Imperial Generator built as of now...sorry.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Jeffy

Howdy UFO, All,
Some quick questions:
1) Does anyone know the IMP. spec. / dia. for the armature?
2) When aligning the comm, does a comm. segment center align
with an arm. pole center?
3) Would someone point me to the posting that showed the SKF
replacement bearings, please? (Or provide the part #s.)
I finally received my replacement kits. IMP's packing is still rather
faulty. Armature got chipped hitting end-edge of housing. 1 kit arrived
w/o dammage.
Best regards, jw

Hello Jeffy,

Related to Armature spec's...can't answer that question...but you have one right?...We talked about they come with resin in the outer...and that resin should be sanded till you start seeing the steel lamination's...is that why you are asking?...it does not fit?


Related to Commutators alignment, take a look at my video here:

ASYMMETRICAL CONVERSION OF THE PRIME MOVER - YouTube

Go to Time 5:30 and there I show the alignment marks and Commutators positioning.


I just replaced the rear Bearing with a Higher Speed rated one...front is ok, it is bigger OD and ID.

Rear Bearing Number is : NTN 6203LLH C3

NTN Brand though...You could search for a different one...this one goes up to18,000 RPM's...


Wish You a great build...and please keep Us Informed...

Now, I do not know if you have watched my videos...but I have all there to put this motors together...including wiring them from zero...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Frequency.

Hello Lester,

Radiant could manifests in either Hot Positives or Negatives, it had to do with the Magnetic Orientation of Your Rotor (How it is wound) related to Stators and the Rotation sense...However, when you have steady brushes on...or pulse it electronically...then you may see it different.

What I was referring to...is to make a Spark Gap of any kind...it could be even a couple of old carbon brushes...sharpen the point like a pencil, and be able to adjust gap very accurately, and fixed to even a circuit board perforated Bakelite.
What I wanted you to notice, is that this type of Motors, once they are running, have a very clear arc-spark through an air gap (once all coils are charged and amperage drops, reaching a steady cruising speed)...The Spark gets to synchronize with commutator switching perfectly after a little time running it.

The only thing is that it could get really hot...and in some cases of higher amperage, the carbon small brushes could get red hot.


Yes, it is great to be able to operate this machines as open systems...


Regards


Ufopolitics

@UFO and all, it has been said many times, that ALL frequencies are available at a spark gap, that's why i love mechanical switching.

Regards Cornboy.

[machinealive]

Hey UFO,

Before I connected the motor to gen, I hooked up battery to gen only and it spun cw. The south stator, that would be p1 on motor/gen, is connecting to neg at caps. But that is the first thing I will check tonight. I know something is hooked up wrong because the generator spun the motor easier by itself, when motor wasn't hooked up electrically. It spun cw.

I still have 12000 uf worth of caps. But I have nothing to check capactiance that high, to verify.

What if I just hook the controller up to where the turbo switch is. leave switch 1,2,3, on manual and try the controller pulsing just turbo.

[Ufopolitics]

Hey UFO,

Before I connected the motor to gen, I hooked up battery to gen only and it spun cw. The south stator, that would be p1 on motor/gen, is connecting to neg at caps. But that is the first thing I will check tonight. I know something is hooked up wrong because the generator spun the motor easier by itself, when motor wasn't hooked up electrically. It spun cw.

I still have 12000 uf worth of caps. But I have nothing to check capactiance that high, to verify.

What if I just hook the controller up to where the turbo switch is. leave switch 1,2,3, on manual and try the controller pulsing just turbo.

Machine, you could do that...use the Turbo...however, IF Machines are counter rotating to themselves...still will be huge losses.

Now you said:

Before I connected the motor to gen, I hooked up battery to gen only and it spun cw.

Now, How did you connected Generator?

1- The way I show on Diagram (REVERSED POLARITY)...or
2- Straight positive Generator to positive battery...and neg Gen to neg battery?...(understanding after all brushes in series between generator)...IF it is this way that it turned CW...then, that is your main issue here...not a big deal either...so no sweat.


Generator MUST turn CW ONLY, when you reverse polarities at main output like I show on Diagram. NOT the straight polarity feed.

All this could be corrected by swapping cables...but I need to know...


Let me know


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

@UFO and all, it has been said many times, that ALL frequencies are available at a spark gap, that's why i love mechanical switching.

Regards Cornboy.

Cornboy,


Then...You are gonna like what I am doing...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[machinealive]

Hey UFO
I got a moment break, I tested with neg bat to neg gen, pos batt to pos gen. Hopefully that is all, I need to change. Yes, after I get this working correct then pulse turbo with controller.

Thats all I can post till tonight, after I get home and check hook up.

[Ufopolitics]

Ok, so...

Hey UFO
I got a moment break, I tested with neg bat to neg gen, pos batt to pos gen. Hopefully that is all, I need to change. Yes, after I get this working correct then pulse turbo with controller.

Thats all I can post till tonight, after I get home and check hook up.

Great Machine...

So that is our problem right there...
You connected + Gen to +Batt, - Gen to -Batt...and you got CW...
(For some reason of Stators Positioning-Connections or other, this Generator is NOT turning like your Motor then... )

So then You connected Generator AS PER MY DIAGRAM...Right?...meaning, REVERSED POLARITY TO ITS OUTPUT...?

Then that is exactly why..."Houston had a problem"...

So now, all you have to do is reverse Generator Output related to Motor...BUT, before connecting to Motor Output...make it Spin with Motor connected mechanically and check output polarity...it should be straight, meaning Positive coming out of Positive and Negative coming out of Negative of Generator Output...then you hook it to Motor Output in SERIES...meaning Motor Out Negative to Generator Out Positive...then go for it my friend...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Donald Haas]

Face to face gen and motor mode 2

Hi All,

Made 2 goldmine modified motors and hooked them up as face to face motor gen mode two.

I copied UFO diagram onto my photobuckt album. Movie and pic there

brodonh's Library | Photobucket

At 12v, 2.8amp in, I saw 37.7v gen output.

I want to set up a two stage discharge with arduino in to caps and then charge a batt.

Will show that when it's done.

I punched out one of the sleeve bearings on the this motor and measured it and found ball bearings to

match so will try those when they come in.

Ball Bearings:Miniature bearings:Ceramic Bearings:Bearing

They have the size for the Imperial 17mm x 40mm x 12mm
they have been good for me over the years.

Also I rebuilt my surplus motor because I was not happy with it.

Had to mill some new holes in the end caps so the brushes would line up better and also had to move both

comm's.

She runnin premo now.

mov on my photo bucket album.

brodonh's Library | Photobucket


Thanks

bro d

[Ufopolitics]

Very Nice Build Donald Haas

Hi All,

Made 2 goldmine modified motors and hooked them up as face to face motor gen mode two.

I copied UFO diagram onto my photobuckt album. Movie and pic there

brodonh's Library | Photobucket

At 12v, 2.8amp in, I saw 37.7v gen output.

I want to set up a two stage discharge with arduino in to caps and then charge a batt.

Will show that when it's done.

I punched out one of the sleeve bearings on the this motor and measured it and found ball bearings to

match so will try those when they come in.

Ball Bearings:Miniature bearings:Ceramic Bearings:Bearing

They have the size for the Imperial 17mm x 40mm x 12mm
they have been good for me over the years.

Also I rebuilt my surplus motor because I was not happy with it.

Had to mill some new holes in the end caps so the brushes would line up better and also had to move both

comm's.

She runnin premo now.

mov on my photo bucket album.

brodonh's Library | Photobucket


Thanks

bro d

Hello Donald,

Nice Man!...great builds!, excellent videos...

Wow, that last vid of the Ten Pole...is running like a Porsche 930 Turbo Charged!!...I mean, there is not much more you could get out of it!

Response from "0 to 60" in what? nano seconds?.... excellent and many thanks for sharing my friend.

We will be ready to get inside Dana's "Leemo" soon...with some Dom Perignon to Celebrate right?...

Honestly, everything looks great...except the "food" skeptics are gonna ask you for...

What about the Amperage at Generator Output... ?

So, yes, expect that... if you try to "claim" OU...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Cornboy 555]

Good One.

Cornboy,


Then...You are gonna like what I am doing...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Can't Wait Mr UFO.

Regards Cornboy.

[jeffy39]

re: arm. dimentions

Howdy UFO, All,
Thanx for the 'conversion' video link. I'd missed that 1.
The first pair of armatures I cleaned up on a lathe. The green
epoxy was mostly .020 to .025 thick. However, what bothered me
was how out-of-round the laminations were. Wanted them to balance
dynamically as good as possible but didnt know how much metal
could safely be removed. Would weaken the top 'T'. Only 1 arm. was bad here.
My machinist is out of town at present. Am waiting for him to do
the current pair.
Also thanx for the bearing #. I hope to wind 18 turns of 19ga wire.
A happy 'medium' ?
Later, jw