My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[JohnStone]

Hi Netica,
1.
the items discussed with Ufo recently seem to be essential for all of us. In order to understand - may I ask kindly for some circuit schematics? I do not get things stored correctly in my brain up to now. Others may feel the same.
You demonstrated in your vid how to utilize radiant and therefore I focus on it strongly. It is not a matter of liking your vid or not. This vehicle (vid) - tansports essential knowledge and therefore it needs some basic documentation.
Apart that our newbies can then understand better that we do not just play with some motors along speed control.
@ all: Please link the build from Netica and post #2273 to your repository!

2.
Did you scope the control signal to the gates of the FETs and did you scope the signal at output with a low ohmic load. This might reveal the cause for your heat problems. Please post results! Lots of causes are possible: oscillations, drive current, backlash from drain/ gate capacity ..... There is a drug available against all such drawbacks.
I am shure you could reduce heat considerably along steep edges of your signals - fostering radinat events.
JohnS

[JohnStone]

Hi jokosunday,
I pondered about your start conditions and have now the advice for you, to start with a small 5 pole motor. Those motors are easily available and you can use a hammer as well if you use it gently in order to drive the schaft out of the armature.
In this thread you have ALL knowledge in written form in order to succeed and thus you will get qualified help.

Nevertheles you can look around for parts for a bigger motor - but please for next level replication. So you should act somewhat interleaved - learn at projet A and prepare B - but do not start with C as intro.

The reason for this hint is that nobody can do YOUR replication but you yoursef. You need to learn a lot by yourself and you should give you the chance to do that. There is no other way to interpret effects observed. Your observations need a bed of knowledge in order to have a palce to live and survive.
JohnS

[s e t h]

timeless machine test

is it just me or is it nearly impossible to use non-ferrous cored coils as field/stator coils?
maybe someone with a nice pulsing setup and a 'timeless machine' replica would care to see if there is a 'input' level in terms of volts/amps where the machine will not even turn at 100% duty cycle (constant DC) but will run great at less than 100% duty cycle?
the aim being to prove beyond a doubt that the machine is being substantially foreward powerd during the 'off time, collapse, reverse'.

i for one didn't recognise the significance of the non-ferrous timeless machine untill trying out a non-ferrous stator coil myself.
but maybe under certain size volt/amp input even a symmetrical non-ferrous machine would work?
if the timeless machine will turn better with a given volts/amps when pulsed than when fed constant/linear DC then we have a good solid proof at least for the equivalent of BEMF(whatever term required) aiding desired rotation direction. plus we'll have proof non-ferrous 'negative induction' is stronger then ferrous standard induction.

i may be barking up the wrong tree but this thought came up trying to get my new machine to run without pulsing input (it doesn't work lol)
i don't have a pulsed setup yet or i'd investigate myself.

[JohnStone]

Secrets of magnetism

If you feel to have understood a little bit of magnetism - you are wrong!
Read this booklet form Howard Johnson


No N-pole without smaller S-pole and vice versa. Double vortices at magnetic poles open lots of imaginations for strange effects like discussed in this thread.

[Netica]

Circuit Diagram for Stator Video

Hi Netica,
1.
the items discussed with Ufo recently seem to be essential for all of us. In order to understand - may I ask kindly for some circuit schematics? I do not get things stored correctly in my brain up to now. Others may feel the same.
You demonstrated in your vid how to utilize radiant and therefore I focus on it strongly. It is not a matter of liking your vid or not. This vehicle (vid) - tansports essential knowledge and therefore it needs some basic documentation.
Apart that our newbies can then understand better that we do not just play with some motors along speed control.
@ all: Please link the build from Netica and post #2273 to your repository!

2.
Did you scope the control signal to the gates of the FETs and did you scope the signal at output with a low ohmic load. This might reveal the cause for your heat problems. Please post results! Lots of causes are possible: oscillations, drive current, backlash from drain/ gate capacity ..... There is a drug available against all such drawbacks.
I am shure you could reduce heat considerably along steep edges of your signals - fostering radinat events.
JohnS

Hello JohnStone,


Here is the circuit diagram you have requested, hope it helps.
I am sorry but I haven't got a scope, I wish I did have.

netica

[s e t h]

timeless machine 100% DC?

@Ufopolitics...does the timeless machine in your video run at 100%/linear duty cycle on the same battery input shown in your video?

[Ufopolitics]

Yes Seth, it does.

@Ufopolitics...does the timeless machine in your video run at 100%/linear duty cycle on the same battery input shown in your video?

Hello Seth,

Just as seen on video my friend, directly from battery.
You may have the stators positioned wrong...you have to "see" them...or easier...get a small Compass inside...
In My Video I show where is the division between North-South with the Brass Lever from my magnet tool.
Normally, where You start winding (First Level) as also where you finish (last level) that is where your North Center is, depending on Voltage polarity (Positive or Negative) you apply to starting wire...as it also could be South.

Start Wind> N( l )S
The Red line is your frontier/division between N-S

Regards


Ufopolitics

[s e t h]

well i got it to almost run with coils in parallel reducing resistance...so now i'm gonna up the volts to 24v

[kenny_PPM]

3 pole Schematic question/idea you may have already tried

Hi Ufopolitics, Thank you for sharing and all the time to respond to peoples posts and trying to help as this is all NEW to the mindsets of the masses brainwashing!

I now understand what you are presenting with the coil pairs and the motor/generator presentations.
I dont want to be long winded but an idea jumps out at me and I will try to explain it here:

My motors are ordered and I am waiting for them to arrive before I start my own experimenting. But there is something that I 'see' on your 3 pole schematic that is making me ask more questions. So what do you think of this?

You state that one coil is the motor (input current) and that is understood. You then state the other 2 coils are generators for output (NOT connected to the input current at this time and act as generators) that is ALSO understood. My question is this: During normal operation there is only ONE input coil connected by the commutator input motor, and only ONE output coil connected by its own output commutator generator, BUT the 3rd generator coil is not 'touching' any commutator while the 2nd output coil IS. Because there are only 2 sets of commutators connected at any given time NOT 3. Can the 3rd output coil somehow be connected and gain EVEN MORE energy in the configuration that your present. 3rd set of commutators?

I am trying to keep it simple, but in your schematic the 3rd output coil energy does not get collected at the same time as the 2nd coil output gets collected and this idea 'jumped out of me' that the 3rd coil could somehow be utilized or connected.

Correct me if I'm wrong but there is always one coil out of the 3 that is NOT connected to any commutators as the rotor spins?

One complete rotation in your schematic is as follows yes?

M=Motor input
G=Generator output
OC= Open Circuit condition (Neither firing NOR outputing charge)

Coil M1 input fires, Coil G2 ouput collected, Coil G3 open circuit (NO COMMUTOR CONNECTED).
Coil OC1 open circuit (NO COMMUTOR CONNECTED), Coil M2 fires, Coil G3 output collected.
Coil G1 output collected, Coil OC2 open circuit (NO COMMUTOR CONNECTED), Coil M3 input fires.

Yes I will build as described first, but this 'caught my eye'

Anyone have thoughts on this?

Thank you!


3P_2S_ASYMM_MOTOR.jpg

[prochiro]

Hello Kenny PPM

I have watched your conversations about motors and you are now in the right spot. UFO has eliminated all the negative aspects of drag on the system and found the real light. Yes you are correct about the three pole. That little dude has some surprises for you ahead. The five and twelve poles are just more.
Dana

[kenny_PPM]

Ahh.

Thanks Dana.

Ahh, Excellent. I can see (envision) how there are limitless possibilities with the configurations with this. Especially combining with a few other known enhancements out there. UFO must have all those ideas running thru his mind wondering where to get the time to test them all!

I will start with the basics but my my, one can easily see how this enlightment is truly already making a difference.

Well done to you UFO to share with everyone another piece of the puzzle that we all put some effort into to understand instead of making a E-book that costs $50.00 and no one ever learns the truth. Good on you!

[prochiro]

JJUK and the Dynamotor

Hi all
Ever since JJUK mentioned that Delco rotary transformer (101985) and I saw how much larger it was than most others, I have been thinking. Picking one up the other day, I found that the dimensions are 9 inches long by 4 inches wide. The rotor coil is 2 inch diameter by 4 inches. It also has a wide base with threaded holes.The outer commutators are 15 contacts and the inner set is 45 contacts. Could be wired as 3 or five, maybe. Frame is cast and heavy. Supper quiet, 1/2 the sound of the smaller ones. But it is soooooo pretty. It is wired in such a way that when one checks the continuity on each commutator, each contact is connected to all the others. The Ohms are impossible to measure. This is not like any other dynamotor I have. It does run well on vary low voltage, such as 6 volts. I am just wondering what the potential might be if properly converted. Taking a regular dyno apart is no fun and with four commutators I think it would be much worse. It is so pretty, I do not want to ruin it just for fun. What do you guys think.? Should I do it or not.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

You are Right Kenny

Hi Ufopolitics, Thank you for sharing and all the time to respond to peoples posts and trying to help as this is all NEW to the mindsets of the masses brainwashing!

I now understand what you are presenting with the coil pairs and the motor/generator presentations.
I dont want to be long winded but an idea jumps out at me and I will try to explain it here:

My motors are ordered and I am waiting for them to arrive before I start my own experimenting. But there is something that I 'see' on your 3 pole schematic that is making me ask more questions. So what do you think of this?

You state that one coil is the motor (input current) and that is understood. You then state the other 2 coils are generators for output (NOT connected to the input current at this time and act as generators) that is ALSO understood. My question is this: During normal operation there is only ONE input coil connected by the commutator input motor, and only ONE output coil connected by its own output commutator generator, BUT the 3rd generator coil is not 'touching' any commutator while the 2nd output coil IS. Because there are only 2 sets of commutators connected at any given time NOT 3. Can the 3rd output coil somehow be connected and gain EVEN MORE energy in the configuration that your present. 3rd set of commutators?

I am trying to keep it simple, but in your schematic the 3rd output coil energy does not get collected at the same time as the 2nd coil output gets collected and this idea 'jumped out of me' that the 3rd coil could somehow be utilized or connected.

Correct me if I'm wrong but there is always one coil out of the 3 that is NOT connected to any commutators as the rotor spins?

One complete rotation in your schematic is as follows yes?

M=Motor input
G=Generator output
OC= Open Circuit condition (Neither firing NOR outputing charge)

Coil M1 input fires, Coil G2 ouput collected, Coil G3 open circuit (NO COMMUTOR CONNECTED).
Coil OC1 open circuit (NO COMMUTOR CONNECTED), Coil M2 fires, Coil G3 output collected.
Coil G1 output collected, Coil OC2 open circuit (NO COMMUTOR CONNECTED), Coil M3 input fires.

Yes I will build as described first, but this 'caught my eye'

Anyone have thoughts on this?

Thank you!


[ATTACH]12264[/ATTACH]

Hello and Kenny_PPM!!

Thanks for your kind words.


Yes, you are completely right, and yes I had this same conversation with some friends of mine a while back.

We could also set three brushes spread at 120º apart...Two Generators and One Motor.

Possibilities are "endless" with this Asymmetric Structures my friend...

However, one thing to have in consideration with three brushes design, is that the more that coil travels "free, idling", the more reversed (Radiant Energy) flow it will collect from the time it was energized. As also that the closer the second generator brush is to the Input, the better, since we will leave that coil "clean, empty" for next energizing stage.
Therefore, this is something that must be tested properly with rotating-adjustable brushes, in order to search for the desired angles where to obtain more energy output.
And realizing that "not necessarily" brushes need to be set at exactly 120º apart.

Also you have to realize that every rotation there is a point where two commutator elements sweep-contact brush, whether at Motor or Generator stages. Therefore the "just one coil interaction" all times is somehow not that real...

I have a post here, where I rendered a Diagram related to better positioning of generator pick up brushes...
I will just (by now) post here the images...

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, realize that I have rendered just the displacement angles based on Bisector sweep ONLY (from start to end) on both.


[IMG][/IMG]

Here I've got G Brush TOO CLOSE to Input M Brush...not good!, there could NOT be touching IN-OUT at same sweep, so, a bit further away from M Input (where they will never meet through same commutator element) is the correct positioning...


Regards, and excellent observation

Looking forward to see your upcoming work here Kenny!


Cheers


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dana!

Hi all
Ever since JJUK mentioned that Delco rotary transformer (101985) and I saw how much larger it was than most others, I have been thinking. Picking one up the other day, I found that the dimensions are 9 inches long by 4 inches wide. The rotor coil is 2 inch diameter by 4 inches. It also has a wide base with threaded holes.The outer commutators are 15 contacts and the inner set is 45 contacts. Could be wired as 3 or five, maybe. Frame is cast and heavy. Supper quiet, 1/2 the sound of the smaller ones. But it is soooooo pretty. It is wired in such a way that when one checks the continuity on each commutator, each contact is connected to all the others. The Ohms are impossible to measure. This is not like any other dynamotor I have. It does run well on vary low voltage, such as 6 volts. I am just wondering what the potential might be if properly converted. Taking a regular dyno apart is no fun and with four commutators I think it would be much worse. It is so pretty, I do not want to ruin it just for fun. What do you guys think.? Should I do it or not.
Dana

Hello Dana!

Wow!, that looks like a pretty Machine!!...

Will love to see pictures of it, if you could pleease!!
If I read you right...you are saying it has FOUR TOTAL COMMUTATORS?!
If this is what you meant...then there are FOUR Machines in One there!!
Two Motors and Two Generators...

I really... will hate to tell you to take it apart

But look at the "Potential" you will have by making a Dual Asymmetric Machine there...
One, the lesser commutator elements (15) a Motor-Prime Mover...
And the two 45 Commutators the Dedicated Generator...

May be I did not understand right...and it is just One 45 commutator and One 15 Commutator...

And it is small...two inches rotor...4 inches total diameter...however it is pretty long though...9 inches.

Anyways, pictures will speak out by itself better than words...

EDIT: In order to read resistance in Symmetric Machines, you must find the End Tie commutator element (it is easier this way, rather than cutting anywhere) and spread commutator tab, and take off last coil wound end terminal...then measure resistance from that commutator element (where first starting coil is attached) and your other loose end terminal.
If You are going to take it apart, I highly recommend that BEFORE YOU DO...To make a diagram of the whole machine, including Rotor windings as also internal connections between brushes.


Regards


Ufopolitics

P.D: Hey...will you share the "Secret Spot" you have found where we could get all this nice and exotic machines??...

[JohnStone]

... Here is the circuit diagram you have requested, hope it helps.
I am sorry but I haven't got a scope, I wish I did have.
netica

Tanks for your schematic. What is the schematic of your pulse generator? Have you got a pic of it? There are some promizing measures you can take in order to optimze it without applying a scope. They will apply to your and all other replicas of any pulse generator.
JohnStone