My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[Ufopolitics]

Brushes "Half Way"

IndianaBoys - i will try get hold of a cyclocomputer...i did investigate but was told it wouldn't handle the speeds involved...i guess i should just try it and see.
thanks

Ufopolitics - i think its the commutator, brush and wire all together adding resistance and its the set away from the switches.
the switches are used in both configurations and if i measure commutator to commutator the resistances seems decent...but if i measure through the input/output wires i get readings all over the place and generally substantially higher in the asymmetric mode.
the commutator/brushes away from the switches is badly worn with grooves and half length brushes...if i can't fix the problem with sandpaper i'll get a third motor to strip...having higher resistance in asymmetric mode wouldn't be a fair test as i'm pretty sure less current will get through the coils causing weaker magnetic fields and reduced performance.

edit: i have a 420mb video of it running in both modes which i'll try get uploaded...it seems a tad slower in asymmetric mode which considering the extra resistance isn't suprising /edit

Ok Seth,

I see, now, the half way brushes will deliver worst contact than a new one because of less spring pressure, since its travel is longer...therefore add more resistance.

I will have soon a better system to get rid of the old type Carbon Brush System...We have to "Upgrade" this Machines right?...and no, it is not an Infra Red yet...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[MasterBlaster]

Affordable Tachometer

I have ordered one of these. Around $12.

Digital Laser Photo Tachometer Non Contact RPM [HS2] | eBay

[prochiro]

Bert Desulfating Batteries

All desulfating takes time, much time. Any battery that you get used should at least be holding 12 volts after a 24 hour rest or it will not hold up in the long run. Many have taken shorted or otherwise bad batteries and worked with them and although some can recover to a minamal degree that are never going to be dependable to run this kind of system.You will never be stronger than your weakest link type of idea. Now, the strongest desulfator I have seen is Bedini's Simple School Girs (SSG). With a frequency between 2500 and 3200 (hits from magnets) and no bridge diode setup or cap pulse setup, it is the cheapest runner of all and will desulfate in from 4 to 8 charge/discharge cycles but you must always watch the C20 rate. Bobs simple windcharger also is a vary good and cheap setup and will get your battery setting after rest at higher than 13.50 in time. It will also charge vary fast and you must really watch the C20 rate with this one or you will burn your batteries. Most all of my work was on 215 to 430AH batteries and the windcharger will do those just fine. I do not use bridge rectifiers when desulfating. Each battery must be desulfated all by itsself befor it is then added into your bank. I hope you know what I am talking about and that I have not added to your confusion in this matter.

@BOB
Thanks BOB for getting me involved in this , and this is paybacks I know because I did the same to you a few weeks back.

dana
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

I am sorry John!!

Hi UFO

Had a strange thing happen yesterday. Running my motor, 5 pole modded, no 1 batt = run, no 2 batt = charge. There is a diode from the gen +. Using an analogue voltmeter on the 0-50V scale, suddenly the reading for the charging battery doubles. What I did was to probe either side of the diode – have you ever experienced the same or is this just a coincidence?

Regards

John

Hello John,

I am really sorry that I have missed your post!...I have so much going on...not only in My Projects...but in my personal life...

Anyways...going to your question,

Using this Machines output to DIRECTLY charge batteries on a continuous mode, and just using diodes is a risky business my friend. Normally, on regular Symmetrical Systems and all electronics that surround those systems, there are Dedicated Batteries Management Systems-Circuits...that keep monitoring values, processing them and restricting too high flows...must of those circuits are set-up with tons of Components called "Opto-Isolators"...that prevent -in case of a major malfunction- will just blow the cheaper component and High Energy will never pass that Opto-Isolated walls...

I was reading a minute ago about Turion being very successful applying My Motor set up to his Three Batteries System...but, He blew up one of his meters...the one reading exactly the Motor Output to third battery (bad one), first -He explains- Meter was showing a negative reading...then stayed doing that afterwards...after disconnected and measuring properly other batteries...still will be reversed permanently...

I have made a hole through in one of my EXTECH Meters measuring Radiant out of a HV Isolated Secondary...very High Arc just went through fiber board and ended up on other side burning everything on its way...

So, yes, I have experimented that problem...and we will keep seeing it until we all learn how to properly "Manage Radiant Energy" in order to read it...


Regards dear friend


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dave

OK guys,
Just wanted to let you know I haven't vanished off the face of the earth. I have been busy, busy, BUSY!!!

First, here is a picture of my dyno test setup. There are two reasons I haven't done the test yet. First, I found a wheel that would fit my shaft, but it has a bearing on it so I had to clean out all the grease and apoxy the bearing so that it is solid and can't turn. If that doesn't work, I will put a pin in it. (8 1/2 inch circumference, so math majors get ready) So while I wait for the epoxy to dry, and waiting for a STOCK motor to arrive in the mail to do the comparison test with, (I tore my third motor apart for parts...lost too many springs for the brushes and ran out of springs from ink pens to replace them with.) I have been playing with other toys. And you will be glad I did!!

I am only posting this here because UFO popped into my thread on the 3BGS and suggested you guys might be interested in my results ( That's an understatement!!!!)

Using the UFO modified razor scooter in the 3BGS setup, I can pull about 97 watts of load and still produce enough power to charge the primary batteries. This is a true overunity setup. Believe it or don't. I ran it off and on most of the day yesterday, sometimes pulling as much as 200 watts. But when I pull that much with NO LOAD on the motor, the batteries don't keep up their charge, so you have to watch things carefully. The key to that system has always been to balance the load on the motor with the load on battery three. That's another reason I have been busy. I needed a shaft coupler for that size shaft, and I found one this morning, so I can hook it to the stock motor when it comes and use it as a generator.

I ran it today with 200 watts of load, and left the basement to take a phone call. When I returned, my batteries were down to less than 12 volts. SO I thought it had quit working like my original.

David Bowling's Continuous Charging Device


But I was wrong!!! Thank goodness!! Not very smart of me. Here are three videos I made. Two are from yesterday and one is from this morning.

UFO motor/ 3BGS - YouTube
UFO/ 3BGS test 2 - YouTube
3BGS Test 3 - YouTube

If you think I am excited, you are RIGHT!!!

I want to build a BIG UFO motor with the attached BIG UFO generator and run it on the three battery setup, probably with 48 volts on the primaries and 24 volts on the "bad batteries" for optimal effect. Or maybe we will just use UFO's pulsed system and I won't need the 3BGS at all. But what I do know is that right now there is a working overunity system in my basement and I can go down and peek at it any time I want to.

By the way, the inverter I am using in the third video is fairly uncommon. It does not have a governor built in. Most inverters will not even kick on until supplied with 12 volts (you can hear mine screaming "no, no no" in the first two videos when I don't have the voltage to run it.) But I toasted that inverter a little this morning by making a wrong connection and had to haul out Old Faithful, which will run on as little as 2 volts DC and still convert it to AC.

Please do NOT make comments here and gum up this thread with stuff about my videos or my build. Go to the 3BGS thread for that. We need this thread to focus on getting these motors and generators built. BUILD, people, BUILD

By the way, I have been working on the 3BGS for almost four years now, but it was UFO's motor that put it over the top. I owe him a cookie at the very least!

Dave

Hello Dave,

First, thanks for informing-sharing your excellent results here!

As I am very glad you got your System running the way you always wanted...
Your System is great, your Third Battery acts like a Dipole, always open, it has always been a Radiant Collector...and now with your Modified Motor it makes a great combination..as both are able to exchange back and forth all Radiant Energy.

My Machines require a Source System ...like yours, and this is what "Open Source" is all about, to incorporate part by part...until we hit our goals. My Oscillator (which is nothing out of this world but a simple Astable Oscillator for square waves... could be a regulator or a Battery Management Circuit to gate in-out power and distribution...But it always could and will use improvements...nothing is perfect.

I can see how excited you are and I am very Happy to have -somehow- contributed to your success...and Now you are gonna be able to make that Battery Charger System for your Dad... ...As I also know, you will make a three times stronger and more capable-robust machine than the Motor you have modified.


I will expect my Cookie any time soon...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

UFO,

Look at this:

DT2234C+ DIGITAL TACHOMETER - www.sinosells.com

i have used these for years. They seem to work well and sell for about $15.00.

I think I understand what I need to find as far as a motor now. I need to make a self-staining system for off-grid. Is the motor that I have good for anything is this system? Could I make an efficient generator out of it?? Or do I need to shelve it for now?

I'll have to start looking for a 4 brushed motor. If I make the fiberglass single wire armature for such a motor would that be a boost to it? Would that need a double single wire armature (coils at 90 degrees out of phase from each other)?

Thanks for all your help,

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Dave please...

My "stock" motor just showed up UPS, so tomorrow I will do a llllllll the testing!

Dave

Hey Dave...Please do not burn it up in the 3BGS...As I want to see it smoke on the Dyno testing...taking it to where mine "CLIMBS"...We need that video for the History...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Bob, practice first...

UFO,

Look at this:

DT2234C+ DIGITAL TACHOMETER - www.sinosells.com

i have used these for years. They seem to work well and sell for about $15.00.

I think I understand what I need to find as far as a motor now. I need to make a self-staining system for off-grid. Is the motor that I have good for anything is this system? Could I make an efficient generator out of it?? Or do I need to shelve it for now?

I'll have to start looking for a 4 brushed motor. If I make the fiberglass single wire armature for such a motor would that be a boost to it? Would that need a double single wire armature (coils at 90 degrees out of phase from each other)?

Thanks for all your help,

Bob

Hey Bob thanks for the Tach , it looks awesome and great price!!

Bob, before running into a "Big Project"...do your practices on small motors...take that motor apart and re wind it...test it...compare results..

You meant the Fiberglass STATOR, not Armature right?...It will boost it in the same measure your Coil did...but enhanced....plus you get to also use it to run your generator Armature side...

I recommend you take a look at Turion's simple Three Battery Generating System...read His latest posts...He is getting High Wattage with it combined with the motor he modified very successfully.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[iankoglin]

Flying Magnets

Maybe this will fulfill the requests/needs for a tachometer at a reduced cost:

Tachometer made from a bicycle speedometer (cyclocomputer)
Tachometer made from a bicycle speedometer (cyclocomputer)

You will only need 1 thing:
A cyclocomputer that reads in MPH and that lets you enter a wheel size in millimeters. Almost all of them do.

IndianaBoys

G'Day IndianaBoys

The speed of a bicycle wheel is much less than an electric motor
It would be dangerous to glue a small magnet to the rotating shaft as at the high speed that the motor will reach if it lets go it could kill you.

I personally have had a magnet that was well glued and fibreglassed over come off a rotating motor it is like a bullet

Regards

[prochiro]

Double check on fiberglass stator wind

@UFO , Hello
I have finished my no metal motor and only need to wind the stator. I have been calculating OHMS for this and did not want to ask as you have laid it out somewhat clear. You said to keep it over 1 OHM but if I do it all with one continous wire(bifolar) I would have vary high OHMs. The only thing I can see is that once you go over and back to complete one layer, you must cut the line and start over again for each layer. This is not the kind of coil one can easily uncoil and if I cut the wire into section and restart as same, then if wrong I waisted all that wire. I calculate that to be 5.38 OHMs, toooooo much?
1. 15 winds at eachlayer over to other end and 30 on that one and back to start position.
2. then what?
Sorry for a stupid question but want to be sure. I am looking for good things with this motor. Pictures when finished to you. Thanks
Dana

[IndianaBoys]

G'Day IndianaBoys

The speed of a bicycle wheel is much less than an electric motor
It would be dangerous to glue a small magnet to the rotating shaft as at the high speed that the motor will reach if it lets go it could kill you.

I personally have had a magnet that was well glued and fibreglassed over come off a rotating motor it is like a bullet

Regards

IanKoglin,

Good point.

Thanks for posting the safety aspect.

I think Bob has come up with the most affordable solution.

IndianaBoys

UFO,

Look at this:

DT2234C+ DIGITAL TACHOMETER - www.sinosells.com

i have used these for years. They seem to work well and sell for about $15.00.

I think I understand what I need to find as far as a motor now. I need to make a self-staining system for off-grid. Is the motor that I have good for anything is this system? Could I make an efficient generator out of it?? Or do I need to shelve it for now?

I'll have to start looking for a 4 brushed motor. If I make the fiberglass single wire armature for such a motor would that be a boost to it? Would that need a double single wire armature (coils at 90 degrees out of phase from each other)?

Thanks for all your help,

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Fiberglass Stator

@UFO , Hello
I have finished my no metal motor and only need to wind the stator. I have been calculating OHMS for this and did not want to ask as you have laid it out somewhat clear. You said to keep it over 1 OHM but if I do it all with one continous wire(bifolar) I would have vary high OHMs. The only thing I can see is that once you go over and back to complete one layer, you must cut the line and start over again for each layer. This is not the kind of coil one can easily uncoil and if I cut the wire into section and restart as same, then if wrong I waisted all that wire. I calculate that to be 5.38 OHMs, toooooo much?
1. 15 winds at eachlayer over to other end and 30 on that one and back to start position.
2. then what?
Sorry for a stupid question but want to be sure. I am looking for good things with this motor. Pictures when finished to you. Thanks
Dana

Hey Dana,

but if I do it all with one continous wire(bifolar)

Dana, ONE continuous wire is NOT bifilar,
Bifilar is TWO wires running together as one strand.

The only thing I can see is that once you go over and back to complete one layer, you must cut the line and start over again for each layer.

No you don't have to cut it to keep going?...OK, You start LEVEL 1 with as many turns you decide according to your space to go...I did it of around 15 turns..., then go LEVEL 2, another 15 Turns, LEVEL 3/15T, LEVEL4/15T, LEVEL5/15T, LEVEL 6/ 30 Turns, now here you are starting second LAYER, and did 15 turns...so go to LEVEL 5/15T, LEVEL4/15T, LEVEL 3/15T, LEVEL2/15T, and LEVEL1/15T...Here you have completed TWO LAYERS...Now you could go back again and again like the Energizer Bunny... ...You do not need to cut no wires...and do a 10 or 20 Layer Stator...

Remember my Coils at the other Thread were 200 Turns...and 330 Turns...and so on...in 18 awg...?

Now what you could also do is to wind let's say two layers continuous...with two terminals at end...Then Wind another Two layers on top...like a Non Isolated Secondary...and get output from it also, once you pulse the first one...or connect it in parallel to the other two layer Coil...and have a stronger magnetic field with a Quad-Filar Stator...

Hope you understood me well...let me know.


Regards

Ufopolitics

[john_g]

Hello John,

I am really sorry that I have missed your post!...I have so much going on...not only in My Projects...but in my personal life...

Anyways...going to your question,

Using this Machines output to DIRECTLY charge batteries on a continuous mode, and just using diodes is a risky business my friend. Normally, on regular Symmetrical Systems and all electronics that surround those systems, there are Dedicated Batteries Management Systems-Circuits...that keep monitoring values, processing them and restricting too high flows...must of those circuits are set-up with tons of Components called "Opto-Isolators"...that prevent -in case of a major malfunction- will just blow the cheaper component and High Energy will never pass that Opto-Isolated walls...

I was reading a minute ago about Turion being very successful applying My Motor set up to his Three Batteries System...but, He blew up one of his meters...the one reading exactly the Motor Output to third battery (bad one), first -He explains- Meter was showing a negative reading...then stayed doing that afterwards...after disconnected and measuring properly other batteries...still will be reversed permanently...

I have made a hole through in one of my EXTECH Meters measuring Radiant out of a HV Isolated Secondary...very High Arc just went through fiber board and ended up on other side burning everything on its way...

So, yes, I have experimented that problem...and we will keep seeing it until we all learn how to properly "Manage Radiant Energy" in order to read it...


Regards dear friend


Ufopolitics

UFO

Thanks for that, I should have said that the voltmeter now always over-reads on the 0 - 50 scale, ie it's blown in some way.

Regards

John

[s e t h]

short video

not much to see but here is a video of my motor running first in standard and then in Ufo mode.
no measurements or data of import but some may find it interesting

10mb 2.5 minute .avi

[DadHav]

Insulation

Hi, Ufo and All,

Here is rewinded rotor from modified motor 2S/12P/24C/2Com/2x2B. The wire I use was 24AWG. Before there was 18AWG coils. The motor now is asambled. It works very good. It is tested for run 15min without stop. Temperature of coils, brushes and shaft not goes up more than 40C.

As next step will be to prepare another similar mod motor and all necessary accessories for testing tasks. The next will be video with motor tests.

Hey Gint, I have another two cents worth if you might be interested. The picture you posted was really nice and large. It provided a good look at your windings and stator slots. I noticed that what looks like your fiber stator insulation doesn't extend as far as your wiring where it goes through the top openings in the stator. It actually looks like the loops are touching the metal in the openings. Vibration or movement of the wire from the high RPM's may create a short. I've had this happen myself. What I did was move wires until the short disappeared then I used some thicker CA glue in the areas that where in danger. There's a product you can buy from your local hobby supplier that is called Blast. You can spritz the glue with blast and it hardens instantly. Using the Super glue with the blast is also a good way to insulate your stator pieces where they may be chipped or otherwise need a coating. Maybe UFO will have a look at the picture and see if he thinks this might be a good precaution.
Take care guys.
J