My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[prato_braun]

how to wind the frame?

A TIMELESS MACHINE - YouTube

A "Timeless Machine"...just because it could have been built One Thousand Years ago...without the "Industrialization Age" ...without heavy machinery to build it...Raw...it could belong to many of our Highly Advanced Ancient Civilizations...as it has been built just now...

An Electrodynamic Machine...built without laminated steel, without steel cores, either at Armature Nor Stators...without Permanent Magnets...just Copper magnetic wire and Wood to support as structural frame...No need of "Industrial Manufactured Parts or Components"...raw wire, raw wood, hand made...and it works...it rotates...

This Machine proves it is ALL about Magnetic Patterns...that we could create whatever we want...including Electricity, therefore Energy...


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hi Ufopolitics,

thanks for sharing your ideas first of all. I watched your latest video and it looks pretty cool and great for a replication. Could you provide some visual help on how to wind the frame? Did you build yourself a shape of fiberglas, put the wire on top and than removed it again? Or how did you go about it?
Cheers and good luck,

Prato

[Turion]

Here's an old 1920 book on armature winding and motor repair that I found really interesting.
http://ia600504.us.archive.org/12/it...00brayrich.pdf

[Netica]

Hi Ufo,

Can a self sustaining system be put together using two separate units with the shafts of the two units connected and relevant electrical connections, instead of as you have stated
"A Self Sustaining System that works in a "relax mode" at continuous duty...meaning not stressed and overheated over time...requires a "Duality" of My Machines related to Armatures, but singled shafted, that dual armature would be wrapped around a Common Stator"(from post#1139)
I am asking because I would like to be able to build on what I am making now with single rotor/stator units connecting the shafts of two units together to create a self sustaining set up instead of having to start over again.

Thanks
netica

[bobfrench@fastmail.fm]

UFO,

Thank you so much. I think I have a direction with this now. One thing...the motor I have is 1/2 hp, not 5hp. It comes from a small fork lift, so I assume that it is built for torque. Being 1/2hp, will that change any of your advice?

Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Turion

UFO,
I have been looking and looking at the 16 pole armature, and I have to admit, I can't figure out how to wrap it. If I wrap either three poles with spaces between them or four poles without spaces between them, the positive poles on the rotor are directly across from the negative, which you have said is not acceptable. If I wrap three poles with NO spaces in between them, I am left with a gap of four spaces when I finish. If I wrap three and three (double space) three and three (double space) I have negatives and positives directly across from each other again. All I can figure is a triangle wrap with five on two sides and six on the third.

I included a blank picture hoping you might be able to help me

Dave

Hello Dave,

That is a great book, I have it, thanks for bringing it here...however, it will give you a deeper insight into the Symmetric Systems...not the Asymmetry...by 1920's it was already out.

I see what you mean by having a North and a South across...You are not seen the Magnetic Pair-Coils "Virtual" Axis...remember they are not across in pairs, but right next to each others...so their "U" Shaped now axis, never meets the one across...they make a "U" Turn right in front of Motor Shaft. Their Magnetic Pattern is a perfect "U", therefore, they never cross vectors of magnetism.

All You got to do here is wrap one after the other, just leaving one pole between them...


[IMG][/IMG]

I have used your original Two Pairs as P1-P9, then I wound them all around following that start...However P2-P10 will be your Brush for Motor
As P6-P14 your Generator Brushes, all at 90 between them and related to Stators...more or less...
Motor will rotate clockwise.


Hope you see it now...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Sebosfato...

Hello UFO and all


I'm working here at my motor..

I found that i wound it completely unbalanced

and made a drawing now of how i think it would be in balance

can anyone help me with that?

check it out

Hello Fabio...

Wonderful!!...now I can NOT SEE Commutator sequence!!...

How can I relate them?

Do not understand the "Balance-Unbalance"...?


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

By Hand...

Hi Ufopolitics,

thanks for sharing your ideas first of all. I watched your latest video and it looks pretty cool and great for a replication. Could you provide some visual help on how to wind the frame? Did you build yourself a shape of fiberglas, put the wire on top and than removed it again? Or how did you go about it?
Cheers and good luck,

Prato

Hello Prato,

Thanks, No mold, I did this one by hand...molding it level by level...however, you could get a Three rectangle mold, small to large...and make them that way...first one side...then its "Mirror"...meaning you start from small square to Mid size to large...then another large then Mid, then small...and you have completed One Layer...then redo the last small with same amount of turns...and come to Mid size...and so on till ending at first rectangle (small)


Please watch My Fiberglass Stator winding video...As the explanations in previous posts...it is exactly the same pattern.


[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]


[IMG][/IMG]


Hope it helped...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Yes Netica, Two Separate Units will be fine.

Hi Ufo,

Can a self sustaining system be put together using two separate units with the shafts of the two units connected and relevant electrical connections, instead of as you have stated
"A Self Sustaining System that works in a "relax mode" at continuous duty...meaning not stressed and overheated over time...requires a "Duality" of My Machines related to Armatures, but singled shafted, that dual armature would be wrapped around a Common Stator"(from post#1139)
I am asking because I would like to be able to build on what I am making now with single rotor/stator units connecting the shafts of two units together to create a self sustaining set up instead of having to start over again.

Thanks
netica

Hello Netica,


Yes it could be Two separate units...easier right?...
Shaft attached mechanically...better face to face through heavy connector, no pulleys-belts...(side to side)...too much loss in friction...

Remember, electrical connections change when attaching machines between them...refer to previous diagram...

A Self Sustained System will work better with forced resonance Caps at each coils, very well tuned...Armatures and Stators...a Beautiful and Harmonious Dance...

The reason of one single shaft and one single stator...is to finally "Fuse" Machines Physically and Magnetically together...in one Assembly. As also connections wiring running within the dedicated electrical boxes attached to frame...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Not at all Bob

UFO,

Thank you so much. I think I have a direction with this now. One thing...the motor I have is 1/2 hp, not 5hp. It comes from a small fork lift, so I assume that it is built for torque. Being 1/2hp, will that change any of your advice?

Bob

Hello Bob,

My pleasure man,
No Bob, it will not change anything at all..You can make it completely different than it was before...those spec's...you could trash them...they belong to Symmetrical Systems.


Could you provide pictures, from Top with stators, commutators and brushes...like a "Plan View"...as armature poles.


Regards


Ufopolitics

[sebosfato]

Hello Fabio...

Wonderful!!...now I can NOT SEE Commutator sequence!!...

How can I relate them?

Do not understand the "Balance-Unbalance"...?


Regards


Ufopolitics

Hello UFO


Here the commutator sequence is aligned with the poles having the same numbers.. THE_ P1 goes from between pole 1-2 to between 14-13 to the (right) north coil and south coil to the left again from between poles 1-2 but now to between poles 7-8 south coil-

I noticed that the motor i'm finishing here ended up with one side heavier than the other unbalanced... because there is more wire in the outer or later added coils... and i didn't wound them really wisely... first time winding a motor, i didn't found it to be such a headache

So i'm still planning on it before starting it up. Because i'm afraid its going to vibrate to much....

in the drawing you notice that i made the coils in a manner that when i wound one coil than i wound the next coil right opposite pole to it--- indicated by the colored circles...

The first layer is the black circles, than dark blue...
This will secure a better distribution of mass over the rotor.

Its an idea i had, would it be needed UFO? I mean this balace?


Regards
Fabio

[thaelin]

Thanks Turion, you voiced the question I have. Now I have the answer too. Figured out you should never work on a motor while drinking buddies. Count was two off. I have only 16 as well. ??? Still trying to figure out how I counted 18? Split coils is going to give me a whopping .5 ohms for a coil set. But damn is it torque laden. Tested a single set in the howsing and it slammed to the mid point. I have been pondering the brush setup as well now I have it.
On top of it all, first wind was just too much wire and had to take out a few so now I am down to 17 winds per coil. About all the room I will have. Amp draw will be a bit high but it should really kick up a storm.
When I add my charging circuit, it should help out a lot. I am definately looking for a bigger motor to play with. I have a design for a 3-wheeler bike that just begs for a nice motor to drive it. I have been looking into a lot of different designs, but all take too many amps and a load of batts to get the job done. I damn straights want a lot more than 15 miles per charge.

Time will see where it goes.

thay

[Ufopolitics]

Balance...

Hello UFO


Here the commutator sequence is aligned with the poles having the same numbers.. THE_ P1 goes from between pole 1-2 to between 14-13 to the (right) north coil and south coil to the left again from between poles 1-2 but now to between poles 7-8 south coil-

I noticed that the motor i'm finishing here ended up with one side heavier than the other unbalanced... because there is more wire in the outer or later added coils... and i didn't wound them really wisely... first time winding a motor, i didn't found it to be such a headache

So i'm still planning on it before starting it up. Because i'm afraid its going to vibrate to much....

in the drawing you notice that i made the coils in a manner that when i wound one coil than i wound the next coil right opposite pole to it--- indicated by the colored circles...

The first layer is the black circles, than dark blue...
This will secure a better distribution of mass over the rotor.

Its an idea i had, would it be needed UFO? I mean this balace?


Regards
Fabio

Hello Fabio,

Ok, now I understand your balance...that is why we speak about turns per coil...so there will be a balance in amount of wire...even though, this turn approach is not "perfect"...just because at start we have smaller radius that at end poles...so "Turns are Wider"...ending up with less wire...
The Ideal way to wind a Motor or a Generator will be by measuring wire length...per coils...then wind it.

But let me say this...by experience I had that same trouble...and when they are running at high speeds they "Balance Automatically"...by Inertia Forces...at low RPM's they may "bounce" a bit...

However, a very well balanced machine will be running at any speed beautifully stabilized.

Then related to current output...if Coils are not pretty well balanced, they will render a "Wave" of Up and Downs variations...at Output...not good.
As they will take different amounts of Input charges to fill them...However, Caps will "even this out"...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

No Drink and Wind!...could get a WUI

Thanks Turion, you voiced the question I have. Now I have the answer too. Figured out you should never work on a motor while drinking buddies. Count was two off. I have only 16 as well. ??? Still trying to figure out how I counted 18? Split coils is going to give me a whopping .5 ohms for a coil set. But damn is it torque laden. Tested a single set in the howsing and it slammed to the mid point. I have been pondering the brush setup as well now I have it.
On top of it all, first wind was just too much wire and had to take out a few so now I am down to 17 winds per coil. About all the room I will have. Amp draw will be a bit high but it should really kick up a storm.
When I add my charging circuit, it should help out a lot. I am definately looking for a bigger motor to play with. I have a design for a 3-wheeler bike that just begs for a nice motor to drive it. I have been looking into a lot of different designs, but all take too many amps and a load of batts to get the job done. I damn straights want a lot more than 15 miles per charge.

Time will see where it goes.

thay

Hello Thaelin,

Absolutely, no drinking and winding!...you could get a WUI (Winding Under the Influence)...

Yes they are very "Torquey"...be careful!...

I am glad You are getting almost there!

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Expanding Asymmetric Stators

Hello to All,

Well, so far I have displayed an Asymmetric Single Stator Coil , in the Fiberglass Model, and now on the Timeless Machine...but there is more.

Those Stators will create a Two Magnetic Poles NS only...However, We could expand to any desired number we want...

Starting the simple way...we could wind Two Pairs of Coils, just like we wind Armature Poles...right?...The difference would be that Stators project towards center(Inward)...while Armature Coils project Outwards...

Based on same design as Timeless Stator, we could wind smaller Arc Modules, in order to fit Four in our 360º Quadrant...or a NS-NS, where each Pair would be right next to each others...just like in previous armatures designs.

We then connect in Parallel Stator Pairs...and pulse them simultaneously as Input...We will get a Rotation Interaction...and when they syn-chronically turn off...well, you know...Radiant Field will reverse all of them (Armature Coils and Stator Coils) at our T-Off Pulse/Commutator switch Off...However...they will keep following the main rotation stream...They just swap magnetic patterns...

So...get ready, because this will make our Machines even more robust, as more efficient, since Radiant will be doing a very High percentage of work...as we lower our Duty Cycle...

Also, so far I have been rendering just a "Two Layer-Six Levels" Stator design...but we could go more "Robust" here...heavier coils, meaning more levels, more layers...including parallel multi-filar concepts...

Also, another very robust way to create a Strong Magnetic Pattern, will be to wind just one turn per level...and make several layers...just like winding a straight coil...

Just some "variations" to open more your mind...Possibilities are endless...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

I also need your help on other issue...

Hello to all,

I meant to address this situation before...but honestly kept loading data here...and videos...But there has been an incident with one of our great contributor-member here...

You may have not noticed...but His Member name is Thugugly (Thug)...He left me a message in my YT Channel, He has been suspended or banned...Idk...

But, please if you could write asking Aaron for his great forgiveness...it will be awesome to have him back again with Us...

I will really appreciate your help!


Thanks


Ufopolitics