My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[IndianaBoys]

Sputnik,

That is a great find on creating a DC motor from scratch! Good job and thanks for posting it.

Yeah, JB Weld contains nodular iron and atomized steel i.e., very fine particles of new iron and steel.

The high temp epoxy resign temp rating given in the above post was for under pressure/load. It can go up to 500 degrees F depending upon the application.

Spent much time looking for resigns that go above 350 degree F.

All the higher temp ones had metal, at least that was my experience a couple years ago. One that looked promising was out of Russia from a doctor at a university looking for someone to buy the formula and go into production/distribution. It was metal free and would stand up to around 1,000 degrees F.

Depending upon our needs with temperature, I believe Polymer Composites, Inc. can blend what we need at an affordable cost.

IndianaBoys

[pmazz850]

Start of my commutator

Sputnik,
Thanks for the link, I'll check that out. Here is the start to my commutator. It is jb welded to a delrin core. Copper does not like to be cut on a lathe. I had to put this in the chuck and turn it by hand to split it in the middle, to avoid the heat. Next I will split the 5 segments, then completely split it in two for two commutators. I am planning on running these both on one side of the shaft. Wish me luck!
IMAG0493.jpg picture by pmazz8501 - Photobucket

[prochiro]

IndianaBoys and pmazz

I have used JBweld for dozens of commutators with diameters of 2.5 inches and put 1800 volts thru them with no trouble at all for vary large motors. It will not shrink and takes the full blast of a tourch without fault. You must use the #2 screws though. Using any adhesive at all will not work for long as expansion and contraction will loose it. I know there are metalic particles in it but so few and so small that it is of no matter. You must let it dry for two days. I actually put the screws in first and a drop of epoxy only on the top to hold them in, fill it up with JBWeld and cut slots and sand smooth. Works.
Dana


PS, those commutators look great.

[Ufopolitics]

Hello All, Hello Pmazz

@ufo,
When you wind this stator and you get over to L6, do you wind 30 turns, one set of 15 for first layer and one set of 15 turns for second layer?
Also you said its bifilar, so when done winding, just connect end of one coil to start of other (traditional bifilar)?
Thanks,
Regards.

Hello Pmazz, Ok...

When you wind this stator and you get over to L6, do you wind 30 turns, one set of 15 for first layer and one set of 15 turns for second layer?

Absolutely, Yes, that is correct...at Layer1/Level6, just as you do a straight Coil in layers, it is like starting "from bottom up now", so yes L1/L6 goes a 30 total turns, then continue on Level 5 another 15 (You already did the previous 15)...then L4 another 15, and so on...
Now, the section of fins...that you crossed at Layer (1)one, to make the "bypass" to other side...this time when making bypass do it in another next section, not in the same one you used...just to balance out winds and not create a bulky wiring there...also to "balance magnetic fields" ...understand?

Also you said its bifilar, so when done winding, just connect end of one coil to start of other (traditional bifilar)?

NOPE!!...It is a "PARALLEL BIFILAR" , NOT a Tesla Series Bifilar like in his patent...it will definitively "cancel magnetic fields to exactly nada, zero..."

So, what it is...is just a Dual strands of 18 wire, attached at both starting-finish ends (parallel)...but the "thing is"...to hold the wires together when winding them...not allowing them to spread apart, keep'em together all time during turns...

What this Type of winding does ...is Increase the Magnetic Field strength to Double of what a single strand does , while lowering resistance in half or more...


I also got very good news for your "All Plastic Motor"...
It will run on just a straight feed from batteries...just connecting Input Brushes to Stator terminals in Parallel...As it also works in series...but then it adds the Coils resistance to the Machine...going slower...

Now, the Advantage of Pulsing both, Stator and Armature Input...is that you just add a "couple of Diodes"...blocking Hot from getting through...at both parallel connections to machine...and get a lot of extra energy after diodes connection (see my previous Thread)...to light up some CFL's or do whatever...charge batteries...or Cap charge...and still have extra energy out...not counting the Machine -Armature Output...this is just from Input...





Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

LidMotor...Why didn't you posted such beautiful videos before??!!

Hello to All, I just found it by watching Turion's YT Video that He posted before...I found an old Youtuber Friend here, that we are subscribed each others...but I did not get the chance to look at such BEAUTIFUL TESTING, and Experiments He has done with my Radio Shack Conversion...!!!


You can not miss them!!

Asymmetrical motor test platform - YouTube

Asymmetric Motor waste heat energy recovery - YouTube


Awesome work LidMotor!!!

Thank You so much!!


Warm Regards


Ufopolitics

[pmazz850]

Dana,
Thanks for the tips on the comutator. I will add the screws.

UFO,
I understand, your coil is two paralell strands.
But wouldn't a bifilar, where the end of one coil connects the the begining of the other, also increase magnetic field? Current would be flowing in the same direction, in both wires. Now if they were hooked up where the end of one connected to the end of the other, then current would be flowing in two different directions and cancel the field.

Quote from tesla bifilar patent: "the energy stored in the coil as a whole will now be two hundred and fifty thousand as great."

Now Tesla states that a bifilar will neutralize self induction, maybe you have tried it and that's not what we want.

Have you tried hooking up the bifilar strands in this fashion? So they aid each other? Maybe I'm confused here

Regards!

[Ufopolitics]

Exactly Pmazz...

Dana,
Thanks for the tips on the comutator. I will add the screws.

UFO,
I understand, your coil is two paralell strands.
But wouldn't a bifilar, where the end of one coil connects the the begining of the other, also increase magnetic field? Current would be flowing in the same direction, in both wires. Now if they were hooked up where the end of one connected to the end of the other, then current would be flowing in two different directions and cancel the field.

Quote from tesla bifilar patent: "the energy stored in the coil as a whole will now be two hundred and fifty thousand as great."

Now Tesla states that a bifilar will neutralize self induction, maybe you have tried it and that's not what we want.

Have you tried hooking up the bifilar strands in this fashion? So they aid each other? Maybe I'm confused here

Regards!

Exactly Pmazz,

Unfortunately, I have tried in other Coils arrangements...it does stores, but it affects some how Radiant Field...and Induction...

But, hey, that is simple...just leave the Four wires out and try it yourself... no big deal...and I know it will "satisfy" your curiosity...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Asymmetric Machine Connection for Testing Output...

To all those that have not looked into My Previous Thread


This is the way I hooked up a stationary Coil back a few months ago...
Now, I am bringing the same Coil...but as an Stator rotating an Armature, and producing -through Diodes- an Output flow of Radiant Energy Excess...or Cold Electricity...

I have used a simple 555 timer oscillator in Astable Mode, an LM317 Voltage Regulator, with just two caps, two resistors...and a Bank of Five N-Channel MOSFET's (NTE 2397) doing the Battery Bank (36V LiPo Pack) ultra fast switching at Negative Drain ...The Diodes are based on NTE 576 or UF505 (for not US market guys), which are Ultra-fast rectifiers rated 400V/150A.

All details of Diagrams on my other Thread, as there you will find also, even better oscillators than my Old 555 arrangement...

[IMG][/IMG]

Now, This Machine will definitively turn by just a Battery Source Linear Feed...However, No Output from Radiant will come out at all...no Light...

Also please Realize, that I have NOT even shown here the Machine Armature Output Brushes, nor Terminals or connections...This is "just" output from RE Reversed Back Flow...rectified by Two Diodes from our Input...


Regards to All


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dear Bob,

@UFO or anyone else who knows:
1. Radiant Polarity Switch
I know the DVM is not reliable for measuring the output of these machines.
However, I've been putting one across the terminals of batteries as they charge from the machine output:

Generator negative output to negative batt post --
Generator positive output to positive batt post --
Positive probe of DVM to positive batt post --
Negative probe of DVM to negative batt post --

The voltage across the terminals shows up as negative while charging. THEN, after disconnecting the charging leads, the battery voltage swings into positive and starts to climb.

This makes sense in light of what you've said about radiant energy; that it behaves opposite to hot electricity. I believe this is why you had the diode blocking the hot in your "My Motors Got Me to Tap into Radiant Energy":

Permanent Link to Post:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post179093

Would it be helpful for me to use blocking diodes with the machine's generator output? (i.e., gen pos |< batt pos; gen neg >| batt neg)

2. Using Hi Temp Epoxy To Hold Wires in Place
This happened to my 5 pole a few minutes ago. Once I've rewound it, I was thinking about using a little hi-temp epoxy to hold wires in place. How do you feel about this? Would this upset the balance of machine?

Thanks,
Bob

Hello Dear Bob,

Thanks for writing such great post!...it is full of very valuable information, that you have taken your time to bring it here...many thanks!

Yes, that is exactly How Radiant Energy flows...opposite to our Hot flow...however, it seems that under "Normal Conditions" (meaning, NOT FORCE REVERSING EITHER of both Currents flows...they "get along" very well...

Now Bob, putting Diodes like you have said to your being charged battery, will definitively restrict Hot flow and allow Radiant to Battery...Battery may charge even faster...However, Now take a look at your Asymmetrical Little Machine...by doing that, you are doing what our Physics have been doing by putting a "Flywheel Diode" not to allow Radiant out of the Motors...but now the other way around...

The thing is...You will not be allowing Hot to "Exhaust" from your little Motor...so trapped charges will "negatively feedback" at your input...or keep spinning within Coils...this will overheat your motor "in the long run"...I am pretty sure...
But, you are free to give it a short period test...

What I have done with this little motors...is to cut one of those hard papers insulation (look like wax paper, but very hard) they use for Motors Hedges...so I cut small pieces and while pushing wire..with a fine plastic or wood knife...I insert those strips between the inner wall of poles...I use very fine needle nose pliers that I previously wrap tape at their fine ends...

I have barely used epoxy, just because I am constantly taking their wires and replacing with either more or less turns...or different types, awg's, etc...for testing...so resin is a mess...


Regards Dear Friend


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

So You Kill The Witch And Dracula?!!

Hello everyone!
I can see that is geting pretty serious things around here and this thanks to UFO!
Still playing with my 3 pole rotor.
Made a small vid; rpm is more than 24 000 ( tooked it to 40 000 but screaming to much and unsafe)
Used 23V and 350mA when running ( around 8W)
Charging the big cap will reflect on input power until it reaches 24-25V; after that allmost no effect on input( 3-5mA more after passing 25V)
When discharging it input power goes down from 350mA to 200mA
For me this is a very good result for now. I like it!!
This time no sparks on the brushes and the coils stays worm (hand temperature)

big cap charging and discharging - YouTube

Hello My Dear Friend from Eastern Europe!!

I see you are doing excellent Cap recharging times there...!!!
But Man...You are abusing that little motor!!!...such HUGE CAPACITOR!!... ...Poor little thing!!...He NEVER had the slightest idea...what It will go through...
(just kidding)

Beautiful tests!!

Thanks very much for sharing them here!!


Многие Теплый уважением мой друг!
Dosvidana!!


Ufopolitics

[Bob Smith]

Now Bob, putting a Diode like you have said to your being charged battery, will definitively restrict Hot flow and allow Radiant to Battery...Battery may charge even faster...However, Now take a look at your Asymmetrical Little Machine...by doing that, you are doing what our Physics have been doing by putting a "Flywheel Diode" not to allow Radiant out of the Motors...but now the other way around...

The thing is...You will not be allowing Hot to "Exhaust" from your little Motor...so trapped charges will "negatively feedback" at your input...or keep spinning within Coils...this will overheat your motor "in the long run"...I am pretty sure...
But, you are free to give it a short period test...

Thanks for the feedback, UFO. I'll play around with it a little. I have some ideas to try and will pass them along if they pan out.

What I have done with this little motors...is to cut one of those hard papers insulation (look like wax paper, but very hard) they use for Motors Hedges...so I cut small pieces and while pushing wire..with a fine plastic or wood knife...I insert those strips between the inner wall of poles...I use very fine needle nose pliers that I previously wrap tape at their fine ends...

I have barely used epoxy, just because I am constantly taking their wires and replacing with either more or less turns...or different types, awg's, etc...for testing...so resin is a mess...

Thanks for the paper tip. Better for me to work this way, as I'm sure it's not the last time I'm going to have to re-wind a coil that's pulled apart with the high RPMs.

Thanks again, UFO.
Bob

[Ufopolitics]

Nice Assembly Turion!!

Have you guys seen this?

ttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sQVCd6U0Tg8

Also, for those working with the MY1016 motor, I have found that you can fit the ENTIRE rebuild within the original casing IF you make the necessary mods and use an end cap off a second motor (the one that has the brush holder in it.)

So if the motor from Razor Scooter is EXACTLY the same as this, you can order that end cap, the brush holder, the brushes and the commutator from them and wouldn't have to cannibalize a second motor just for parts. But you need the bar code off a Razor Scooter motor to order these parts. I tried to contact the manufacturers of the MY1016 about getting parts and they suggested I buy a second motor. Anyway, here are the instructions for the modifications.

Steps for making the razor scooter motors work for UFO's build

Once you have the motor apart

1. Drill out the four pins that hold in the fiberglass brush plate and remove it.

2. Drill off the supports that held up the fiberglass brush plate. (The same four pins that held it in place.) so the inside of the casing is flat and smooth without those pins sticking up.

3. Cut a circle of lexan plastic out of 1/4 inch thick plastic (doesn't have to be exact.) It should be as large as it can possible be and still rotate freely between the four posts with the threaded holes in them that are used to hold the motor together. Make sure there is a center hole in it the same size as the hole in the fiberglass brush plate. It needs to be able to spin freely so that you can turn it to make your adjustments, but you do NOT want it to wobble around all over the place.

4. Remove the four brush holders by bending up the four tabs that hold them in place on the brush plate. Remove the brushes and springs from the brush holders. Mark 1/8 of an inch on the front (brush end) of each brush holder. Using a grinder, grind the brush holder off shorter by 1/8 of an inch. You will need to file it on the inside to remove burrs so the brushes will slide in and out freely. The brush holder (when secured in its NEW position) will now be short enough that it does not hit against the four posts with the threaded holes in them that are used to hold the motor together when you rotate the brush plate.

5. Using the original brush plate as a template, mark off the holes for the mounting tabs for the brush holder on the round piece of plastic you cut, but remember when you go to drill these holes, they must be 1/8 of an inch CLOSER to the center hole THAN WHAT YOU MARKED. Insert the tabs from the brush holders into the holes in the plastic plastic and epoxy into place.


This completes the modifications to the brush holder. The last step is to modify the casing so that you can easily turn the brush plate from the outside as WELL as hold it securely in place from the outside.

Drill severall holes in each hemisphere of the end casing. Drill them so close together that you form a curved slot. Put a screw (or a small bolt with a nut on it that you can tighten for tensionthrough from the outside into the plastic at the center of each slot, which will give you several degrees of rotation in either direction. If you rotate the plate until the screw hits against the end of the slot you made and you need MORE rotation, leave it there and drill a new screw hole in the center of the slot. Put in a new screw and remove the old one, and now you have additional rotation.You need to do this with BOTH slots at the same time of course.

There is enough room in the original casing for two brush plates, two commutators,

You will need to make these EXACT same modifications to the other end cap that contains the other brush plate you got from the other motor. In addition, you must drill all the way through the end plate where the four bolts that hold the motor together go, and use loner bolts or threaded rod to hold the motor together rather than the original four bolts.

That's it. The video is here: MY1016 Motor mod per UFO - YouTube

Hello Dave!!

That looks great, excellent video and very well detailed explanation!!
Incredibly you have made it fit everything there keeping Motor same spec's!!

Very wise and excellent idea to make the brushes adjustable from outside!!

So, We will go for a ride soon?...

And still, I can see you have plenty of room there...as also I figure, you have calculated the space the winding coils will take...so you can not "count" with a flat to steel armature resting commutator...since there is need to run wires to hooks, and so on...

The only thing that really worries me is the Plexiglass Brush Board...will it stand the heat from the Brushes friction transmitted to Brass housings?...I know is pretty thick...but there will be heat there for sure.

Now, just looking at your Motor I was thinking (yes I do also a lot of thinking, like You... )

Did you notice how much room wasted inside the Armature Steel Frame, between shaft and poles?...I mean, they could have made nice openings...But we could have used ALL that space... to make such Huge amount of Copper wire Coils...!!!...that will light up the whole City...driving Down Town at night at 85 MPH...what a waste!


Regards and Excellent work!!


Ufopolitics

[Turion]

UFO
I am having some trouble with getting my Modified Razor scooter motor to run. The attached diagram is the way I have it wired. In the scooter motor the windings go around three commutator segments instead of four, but that is not the issue.

1. The diagram seems to indicate that there are eight coils. Correct?
2. A blue coil and a red coil each have a wire connected to the same commutator segment. Correct? Or is the blue going to the front commutator and the red to the back commutator?

That uses up four of the 16 segments on each commutator. Should four commutator sections be connected together so there are four groups of four, or should three be connected together to leave off time in between?

Dave

[Ufopolitics]

Hold On Dave!!

UFO
I am having some trouble with getting my Modified Razor scooter motor to run. The attached diagram is the way I have it wired. In the scooter motor the windings go around three commutator segments instead of four, but that is not the issue.

1. The diagram seems to indicate that there are eight coils. Correct?
2. A blue coil and a red coil each have a wire connected to the same commutator segment. Correct? Or is the blue going to the front commutator and the red to the back commutator?

That uses up four of the 16 segments on each commutator. Should four commutator sections be connected together so there are four groups of four, or should three be connected together to leave off time in between?

Dave

Hello Dave, no, am sorry you got it wrong...am getting info gathered and written for you...

Pls Hold!


Thanks!


UFO

[Turion]

I updated the picture I posted with "A's and B's next to the wires so I can try to figure out where the ends of those wires go.

Dave