My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[ewizard]

prochiro or anyone else who has tried with drill motors - dang I didn't get very far and as I said I'm a motor newbie. I've got a steel gear on the shaft and while I've got gear pullers for car stuff they are all too big for this. Any ideas how to get that off? I think the best solution would be a small gear puller but I don't have one. Vise and tapping it down maybe ? But seems it's on really tight and I'm concerned I'll flatten out the end of the shaft. I guess I could cut the gear off at the sides with my metal bandsaw?

[JohnStone]

... I'm trying to figure out which of the two senarios is the case: Is this a more eficient motor or is it a more effiecient generator or is it both?
Maybe there are similar tests already. Let me know if you know of something.
John H

Hi John,
sorry for chiming in.
Did you watch
Peter Lindemann -- Electric Motor Secrets
Peter Lindemann -- Electric Motor Secrets - YouTube
There is very good explanation about the basics happening inside normal motors if we look inside and not from ourtside as a black box only.
Based on these facts UFO (but independently) devidsed enhanced motor designs overcoming the "WITCH" sitting inside the standard bewitched motors.
So the answer to your question is: both: highly effitient motors and dto. generators.

~o0o~

Up to now some independent replications in small scale were built in order to prove it can be done. Apparent enhanced properies are obvious. This is the first step of scientificly proved replications. On the other hand - who cares of science if every contributor in this thread drives his own electric car - next year?

It is very difficult to make proper and useful torque measurements at such small motors. But torque measuremenrts are essential in order to measure the mechanical power generated. Even electrical measurements are not trivial. You should understand that this is a democratic low budget scince open source, shared and free. Expensive measurement equipment is not available.
Nevertheless measurements need to be done soon.

@ALL: Additionally to Mr. Lindemann's torque measurement demonstrated another way can be devised. A breake motor on the same shaft will generate a variable brake forth measured by a lever attached to the brake motor and a normal scale. From this force and the turn speed the current mechanical power can be calculated. The advantage is that we get constant conditions and can find out where exactly the sweet spot is.
Exact measurement of the input power is much more easier but is not trivial as well. I will cover this item in a later post.

[JohnStone]

... I've got a steel gear on the shaft and while I've got gear pullers for car stuff they are all too big for this. Any ideas how to get that off? ...

Try heating the gear with a cigarette lighter while pulling. I got rid of it by using a screw driver as wedge ( better use two of them).
Unfortunately the shaft was grooved under the gear. You need to sand the extending material away in order to slip down the bearings. Now this sanded part is not good for using later on in the bearing.
So I need to apply the suggestion posted before to use both shafts and put the grooved/sanded part inside the armature. I hope the armature is stable (welded) in itself and does not break apart if not fitted on a single shaft.

[s e t h]

for my part i will be trying to source several 3 pole motors.
it appears one could even leave the standard wiring in position and merely extend the wires on the coild slightly to attach to the new commutator.
this will give a standard and modified motor with 99% similar winding/wire/resistance/friction etc.
then one can devise tests to see which one lasts longer on the same battery input, which one will turn say a propeller faster and for how long or whatever other tests could help decide just how impressive the new torqe/power/efficiency is.
i hope i can find some soon

[prochiro]

ewizard

prochiro or anyone else who has tried with drill motors - dang I didn't get very far and as I said I'm a motor newbie. I've got a steel gear on the shaft and while I've got gear pullers for car stuff they are all too big for this. Any ideas how to get that off? I think the best solution would be a small gear puller but I don't have one. Vise and tapping it down maybe ? But seems it's on really tight and I'm concerned I'll flatten out the end of the shaft. I guess I could cut the gear off at the sides with my metal bandsaw?

You haave a tough one there. The simplest thing to do is use another shaft and maybe a longer one. However, place the gear on the vice in loose fashion and try to hammer it out after heating just a little on the gear only, not too much heat. If this will not work without getting viral, the only other thing to do is use your dremmel and cut it off by setting gear in vice sideways and cut longwise of the gear. Wear eye protection.
Dana

[Ufopolitics]

Hello Dad Hav

Hello Woopy. I've always been a fan of your video channel. Since you seem to be pretty far along and knowledgeable about this modification, maybe you can answer a few questions for me. What did the modification prove for you?
Does the motor run faster or have more torque than the stock motor?
Does it do so while using less current?
Is the motor / generator increased voltage have any use other than what you would expect from one DC motor turning another?
Let me tell you about something I tried. I took two of these motors and connected them with a rubber coupling. While running the first motor at 10 volts I had another 9 volts on the generator motor. If I made the proper connections I could measure 19 volts. OK know I made a test. I adjusted the input voltage so that I had 12 volts comming of the motor / generator connection. I applied the 12 volts to two 12 volt lights that are 50ma each. The lights where bright as expected but the current draw to run the setup went up by 200ma or twice what it would take to run the bulbs by direct connection to a 12 volt supply. This acted like a step up transformer with a 2:1 ratio. I expected exactly what I saw. What happens when you attach a load to your modified motor?. Try just the generator and try the increased voltage connection. I'm trying to figure out which of the two senarios is the case: Is this a more eficient motor or is it a more effiecient generator or is it both?
Maybe there are similar tests already. Let me know if you know of something.
John H

Hello Dad Hav,


I am very sorry I have not being able to respond before to you, since I have been dedicated entirely to finish my work here. I hope you could forgive me.

I think I could help Woopy just a bit, about explaining your concerns and questions about this Systems...

This Machines as Motor function related have many advantages over any of the Symmetrical kind.

1- Effective Voltage (Ev) at Armature/Rotor is greater than Input Voltage (Ea), since the power that used to be called C EMF in the past Symmetrical System...and was of "negative value", therefore, had to be deducted from Ea...Now has become of Positive value, therefore, on complete assistance to Rotation Force and is added to Ev.

1-a: This positive parameter on our side, generates an increase of force volume on this motors, beyond the short circuit ones and of course...of the latest BLDC Motor...that is a complete crash of flow in its Star or Delta windings...

1-b: This positive factor allows Us, to "no longer sacrifice" one of the desired parameters as are RPM's or Torque like We all have been taught it MUST be done...sorry..but not anymore, yes, We can have both Worlds together.

2-The Source or Battery consumption reduces to Milli-volts levels, when compared to a short circuit reversed polarity symmetrical motor...

3- This Motors do not have reversed or negative feedback "parasitical" and randomly traveling currents hitting and frying our electronic sensitive components anymore...The Flow has been oriented to go "One Way Only"...

4-This Motors do not require "massive amperage" to operate and develop their work at very efficient levels...The Typical Amperage requirements of Symmetrical Machines, was entirely due, to their constant wrestling electrical-current forces within their rotating components...Reminding all here, that Amperage is a "Population Value" of Electrons at a given section of the conductor, therefore, is understood, that if we have a machine that has a very populated Incoming Traffic towards Our Traffic Flow...the measurements at any given part of such conductors...Our meters will read "Mega Congested Amperage Area" in just that section.

Therefore We are all gonna have to familiarize with the so called "Nonsensical" arguments of many, many Inventors, the list is huge, who stated, their "Machines worked only on Voltage"...or "They did not require a Higher Amperage"...and so on, they kept repeating to exhaustion, and were all taken as "ignorant and not properly skilled in the Art, or in the fields"...

5- This Motors allow many other circuit-windings designs within the same armature, comprehending wider poles configurations, that increases their "throw out angles of magnetic forces " developing speeds beyond our knowledge in any electrical motor known so far.
As they also allow an "Start-Up Winding" of shorter poles for greater torque in much heavier machines...it will become a kind of Electromagnetic Transmission within just one embodiment.

6-This Machines only "Turn On and Turn Off" their Coils, in order to achieve rotation, therefore is understood, that Electronic Signaling Circuitry based on just Opto Isolators could be employed, reducing all friction drag and heat... But mainly leaving to Electronics Highly developed logic circuitry to control their operations in a more accurate and faster response fashion.

7- We can combine, add, modulate and exchange this machines internal and external components as We desire, and that includes the fusion of Motors and Generators in just One Assembly...in order to obtain our specific design requests.

There are many more advantages to them...and then some we never thought off will come in near future...and I know We will.

This Machines will bring a new age for Motor and Generator applications...World wide...the list of benefits is endless and limited only to our capacity and imagination...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[john_g]

prochiro or anyone else who has tried with drill motors - dang I didn't get very far and as I said I'm a motor newbie. I've got a steel gear on the shaft and while I've got gear pullers for car stuff they are all too big for this. Any ideas how to get that off? I think the best solution would be a small gear puller but I don't have one. Vise and tapping it down maybe ? But seems it's on really tight and I'm concerned I'll flatten out the end of the shaft. I guess I could cut the gear off at the sides with my metal bandsaw?

Hi ewizard

I put some ideas on:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post201313

If you make 2 bars with slots, and taper both with a file/grinder, you could push the 2 wedges together, to force the commutator up.

Regards

John

[b_rads]

My Build

I have posted a video of my first build - I am very excited by the results. I used a 1$ Fan motor and eliminated the second commutator. Please enjoy!

UFO's Asymmetric Motor Variation - It Works
Brad S

[ewizard]

Hi ewizard

I put some ideas on:
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post201313

If you make 2 bars with slots, and taper both with a file/grinder, you could push the 2 wedges together, to force the commutator up.

Regards

John

Thanks John and everyone for the suggestions. Your idea here put a picture in my mind of how I'm fairly certain I can do this. Close to yours but a little different. If it works out I'll share some pics for anyone else in this dilemma to try.

[Ufopolitics]

I have posted a video of my first build - I am very excited by the results. I used a 1$ Fan motor and eliminated the second commutator. Please enjoy!

UFO's Asymmetric Motor Variation - It Works
Brad S

Hello Brad!!,

Great video!, and what you did with the generator, instead of the Commutator is awesome!...You have made a continuous slip ring out of nothing there but a bushing...wow, great improvement!

But now guys...you are all abusing of those little motors...

They never thought they were going to be used and abused this way!!

Now, let me tell you another small hint...even though you may be out of room there...

A later experiment I have been doing...is to add 3.9 to 5.1 K Resistors between the opposite extreme from where we take the Armature power off...meaning, the side where we set the jumper cable from Negative Input to Positive Out, right there, I added between commutators those resistors...it increases the output voltage, from 5 to 10% depending on set up...

So, Radio Shack has this very tiny resistors of different values...I have only gone as low as 3.9K, but on higher V, So I think for your set-up it could use much lower ones...and put them in between end coils and common bushing_linear contact ring...

I mean, you already turned up that light...and maybe now turn on a CFL...


Good work!!


Thanks and regards


Ufopolitics

[hello_all]

i am thinking of using this motor ..HTI 5 pole .. the shaft is long to do the stuff, has anyone looked into this , also one thing bothers me is the brass this in the top..


http://www.mopselectric.com/ebay/hti12vmotor3.jpg

pls let me know if someone has experience with HTI motor.

regds
pat

[Ufopolitics]

i am thinking of using this motor ..HTI 5 pole .. the shaft is long to do the stuff, has anyone looked into this , also one thing bothers me is the brass this in the top..


http://www.mopselectric.com/ebay/hti12vmotor3.jpg

pls let me know if someone has experience with HTI motor.

regds
pat

Hello Pat,

Just check if the shaft at bottom (where commutator goes) is the same diameter as the thicker upper one or it changes?...it normally should not...

So if it does not changes it is ok to convert...but if it is thinner...it could become a longer project for you...unless you have a Lathe and could machine it...but still the bearing is going to be off...

So check on bottom before taking it apart...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[hello_all]

HTI 12 VDC - 700 Series - 5 Pole Electric Trimmer Motor | eBay

Looks same at bottom ... Going to get 4 of these from some cheaper place..

Thanks
Pat

[Ufopolitics]

Just remember...

for my part i will be trying to source several 3 pole motors.
it appears one could even leave the standard wiring in position and merely extend the wires on the coild slightly to attach to the new commutator.
this will give a standard and modified motor with 99% similar winding/wire/resistance/friction etc.
then one can devise tests to see which one lasts longer on the same battery input, which one will turn say a propeller faster and for how long or whatever other tests could help decide just how impressive the new torqe/power/efficiency is.
i hope i can find some soon

Hello Seth,

So, Ok, that's the same approach as Bbem, the lazy guy who took same wires...and cheat!

Remember Brushes Angle must vary to 90 degrees related to Stators...

Regards


Ufopolitics

[prochiro]

Finished and runnung

This is The finished dewalt motor made out of parts from three others including longer shaft and new brushes. The tube is one piece and came fron a long 5 pole motor. I show this just to show that you can do anything that you can think of. The sky is the limit.


Dana