My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[wantomake]

Sorry off topic

Ufopolitics,
You don't have to answer this if I'm being rude to post here this question.

I was a part of this adventure in the beginning and enjoyed with much learning, the modified motor generator I built from your instructions. I stopped cause can't afford the imperial motor, but still keep up reading here. Thanks for those good times.
Have been working on the elusive lockridge device for some time now. That's the reason I ask you.

Here is my question if you don't mind;
Will a high end 3D cad program with electrical, electronics,electromagnetic, transformer effect and the such, would it show all the effects each part of the device and how to tune or change parts of the machine?

If I'm way off here just call me crazy and I'll understand.

An old member and friend,
wantomake

[iankoglin]

Hi Kogs,

Thank you for your constructive reply. I had thought that the UFO kit contained all the essentials required, however if you state that I require two kits to build one of the motor/generators then I will do so. Had hoped to keeps some reserve £$'s for the guy who will be winding my motor and assisting. We don't have much money but plenty of time.

Thanks again..

Best

Finn.

G'day Finn
I am sorry I did not explain my self sufficiently But I see now I do not need to elaborate any more as UFO has answered all for you
I was intending when you purchased your first 2 or 3 small motors explain to wind the all North's as the original winding is now apparently old hat I personally have not as yet wound an all North's motor but will be doing so in the near future

Kindest Regards

[Ufopolitics]

Great!

Can't thank you enough for helping a complete, yet interested novice.

Have click and collected 2 of the lesser speed motors as I can pick them up tomorrow. May have a few extra £$ to get a faster one to compare it with.

Could be a couple of days before I have the time for this so you can have a break from my questions.

If nothing else my posts and future updates will show how possible this is for someone with entry level electrical knowledge to build, test and hopefully power my street for free ..... Baby steps first.

Bought the BIG UFO kit to actually get off my behind and do something, rather than read through the hundreds of free energy device e-books being a passive observer just wishing for it to happen......It appeals to me that this method uses existing technology just so differently.

so much.

Finn.

Hello and you are welcome Finn,

I have more pleasure teaching a new member on a new build... than arguing with an old one about OU...

That little motor seems to have a pretty good sized shaft, that should allow room for the two commutators...

Your start would be to put together first, the Asymmetric Rotor with the two commutators...so, strip all wire of one rotor to be wound and the "parts rotor" you could just cut wires to have access to GENTLY pull commutator out (be very carefull here, cause they are made of mica and brake like glass, so do not pull from just one copper element, but try to pull EVENLY with a fine "Y" clip remover screw driver that fits the whole or most lower area...or anything that would seat at level under comm...so you could press it out EVENLY, some come out easily...some don't)...set new comm apart by about similar distance from rotor surface as the factory one already on shaft.

This Rotor with the two comm (no windings yet) would serve you as a guide -in length- to cut both outer housings.

The way I do it simple, without the need to use a lathe to perform a perfect cut...I cut on the longer piece of housing right by the "shoulders" angle, leaving some room to be filed later on and measure a few points to make sure cut is even, run a guiding small tape if necessary...Then insert your rotor on the cut larger housing and measure how much more "fill" you need to cut off the shorter end to house the other end brush caps...Make sure not to cut too close to Brush housing indentations or where bending tabs are...so you do not weaken the Metal Ring Housing!!...

Use first some fast glue to just "tack" three or four points on the two part housing ...then check rotation. This way is easier to remove tacks and reweld with glue till you get proper alignment.

Oh, remove magnets before cutting housing with a carbide disc or even with a steel saw!!, magnets do not like heat!...but I see that motor have a "V" Clip and a retainer built in (two indentations from body cuts) to stop-press both magnets in place...magnets "should not" be glued...hope so.

Only once you get all this structures made, and secured welded both pieces of housings...magnets tested and no binding with rotor...then you start the winding process.


Regards Finn


Ufopolitics

[Fingregor123]

Can't thank you enough for helping a complete, yet interested novice.

Have click and collected 2 of the lesser speed motors as I can pick them up tomorrow. May have a few extra £$ to get a faster one to compare it with.

Could be a couple of days before I have the time for this so you can have a break from my questions.

If nothing else my posts and future updates will show how possible this is for someone with entry level electrical knowledge to build, test and hopefully power my street for free ..... Baby steps first.

Bought the BIG UFO kit to actually get off my behind and do something, rather than read through the hundreds of free energy device e-books being a passive observer just wishing for it to happen......It appeals to me that this method uses existing technology just so differently.

so much.

Finn.

[Ufopolitics]

Tried editing previous post but Pc playing up....

would anything from here suffice to cut our teeth on while waiting the UFO Kits?

Maplin | Maplin - The Electronics Specialist | Order Online for Fast Delivery

Have one close by....well close ish.

Regards

Finn.

Hello Finn,

I saw this Motor below on the site above...

MFA General Purpose Motor 19000rpm | Maplin


They have several with same picture, different prices, different top speeds...

Just get the cheapest ones for your tests and learning...since you will need Two of them.

I believe they are Five(5) Poles, and I see easy tabs bent to take apart brush caps...so making an All North Five Winding, would be A good experience and easy to build, in order to compare even with the more expensive and fastest ones on that site...

The hardest part on this build...is to cut the end ring of one and add it/solder it/glue it to the other cut one...since this operation must come out perfectly straight so no magnet binding with rotor...once you assemble the whole thing.

So, main part here is to FIRST DO all the mechanical assembly...test that is spinning free, not rubbing...with magnets on, it would have normal drag...then do the winding.

Use 26 awg (look for mm equivalent) from 8 to 12 turns per coil , the more the better...(2 Coils in the Pair...)

This Video will show you basically the winding shape in 3D of One (1) Pair composed of Two (2) Coils...The whole motor have Five Pairs...and disregard the spec's of 30 awg.

The Plan View for ALL N is below:

[IMG][/IMG]

This video has the right spec's in the beginning (8TX2 @ Pair & awg=26)...However, in latest videos I did it with (12TX2 : 26 awg)

It is better to start playing with small toys like this, before going into Imperial...


Regards


Ufopolitics

[Fingregor123]

Roger Wilco Captain.

Wire and bearings to be ordered, check.

Onwards and upwards.

Regards

Finn.

[Ufopolitics]

Imperial UFO Kit...

Hi Kogs,

Thank you for your constructive reply. I had thought that the UFO kit contained all the essentials required, however if you state that I require two kits to build one of the motor/generators then I will do so. Had hoped to keeps some reserve £$'s for the guy who will be winding my motor and assisting. We don't have much money but plenty of time.

Thanks again..

Best

Finn.

Hello Finn and Welcome !

I believe you understood Kogs wrong...He meant to first construct some cheaper small motors , in which case you DO need Two Motors to make one...

Related to the UFO Kit, it DOES have the essentials (except the winding enameled copper wire) to put together a whole Imperial P56.

The Bearings that comes with the kit are NOT high Speed rated...nor ceramics, nor expensive type.

Regards


Ufopolitics

[Ufopolitics]

Some Due Explanation on my end...and The O.U. "Game"...

Hello Midaz, Hello to All,

Let me explain "how this works" for this People asking for O.U...it is a very simple equation, so, let's take a look at this so simple approach.

I have been "through this" so many times before...and it seems we are talking about High Level Algebras with Integers at infinite limits or Quaternion Equations Calculus...BUT IT IS NOT...it is so simple, even Your Kids at School could decipher this lingo.

1-Starting from the word "Unity" which means 1/1 or One(1) over or divided by One(1) and that equals=One (1)

1/1=1=UNITY

Where Our Input (I) goes in the lower or subdivision and our Output (O) goes on the top meaning: O/I

2- Therefore, if We have: 0.5/1=Then We have "UNDERUNITY"

3- And if We have 1.5/1= We have "OVERUNITY"

Still, if We have 1.0001/1= We still have "OVERUNITY"

As, if We have 0.999999/1= We still have UNDERUNITY

C.O.P. is the "Coefficient Of Performance"...which translates into another first grade math...

All We need to do for C.O.P. is to Divide both numbers and for EFFICIENCY to multiply COP by 100 to obtain percentage rates.

1-COP of UNITY (1/1)=1 EFFICIENCY=COPX100=100%...So the COP of UNITY is exactly 1.

2-COP of UNDERUNITY at (0.5/1)=0.5 EFFICIENCY=COPX100=50%

2a-COP of UNDERUNITY at (0.99999/1)=0.9999 EFFICIENCY=COPX100=99.99%

3-COP of OVERUNITY at (1.5/1)=1.5 EFFICIENCY=COPX100=150%

3a-COP of OVERUNITY at (1.01/1)=1.01 EFFICIENCY=COPX100=101%

3b-COP of OVERUNITY at (1.001/1)=1.001 EFFICIENCY=COPX100=100.1%

...and so on for every value on top we have different total results which go all the way to INFINITY(&) Possibilities.

As dR-Nogreen stated above...They either understand it is an OU Machine or it is a High Efficiency Machine...so, there is absolutely NO RECOGNITION AT ALL that ALL OUR MACHINES DELIVER AN ELECTRICAL OUTPUT, besides being EFFICIENT and ALL Delivering a High Torque and High Speed Performance (And, no matter if N-S or All North Winding, please, let's not enter into those details with them, just because they do not give "a who" either way)

RESUMING: This Guys want OU...or IF NOT OU, then, for Us to "accept" ..."IT IS ONLY A HIGHER EFFICIENCY MOTOR"...AND IT IS NOT!

WE CAN FIND NUMEROUS SYMMETRIC MOTORS OUT THERE THAT ARE IN THE HIGH NINETY'S PERCENT "MECHANICALLY" EFFICIENT, BUT NONE (READ ME WELL HERE) NONE, BESIDES BEING "MECHANICALLY" EFFICIENT, DELIVER AN ELECTRICAL OUTPUT BACK TO THE SOURCE, NO MATTER HOW SMALL THAT OUPUT ELECTRICAL VALUE WOULD BE...NONE OF THE CLOSED LOOPED SYMMETRICAL MACHINES CAN EVER DO THAT!

Now about Measuring OU in our Machines...

The MAIN THING HERE We ALL must have in mind, BEFORE WE PROCEED:

ALL OUR MACHINES ARE UNIQUE, DIFFERENT, WHEN COMPARED to ANY OTHER ONE OUT THERE IN PRODUCTION AND IN THE SHELF OF ANY MOTOR-GENERATOR STORE

The underlined statement, is done so no one comes here talking about "X" Model or "Y" Prototype built from whoever...just because AM TALKING ABOUT ROBUST MACHINES THAT ARE READY TO GO ON PRODUCTION LINES AS I WRITE HERE.

ALL OUR MACHINES ARE -SO FAR- CONVERTED FROM ALMOST (I WOULD SAY 90%) OF ANY EXISTING SIZE MOTOR OUT THERE, FROM THE SMALLEST LITTLE MOTORS TO HUGE SCALE IN ACTUAL PRODUCTION LIKE IMPERIAL, OR EVEN THE BIGGEST TRACTION MOTORS ARE CONVERTIBLE TO ASYMMETRICAL TYPES...AND JUST BY DOING SOME MINOR STRUCTURAL AND REWINDING ALTERATIONS WE HAVE THE FINAL PRODUCT READY TO GO AND BE ASSEMBLED ON ANY OF THEIR SPECIFIC APPLICATIONS THEY WERE BUILT TO...

MEANING, WE DO NOT EXPOSE HERE, ANY HUGE OUT OF THE "ORDINARY" SIZE "WHEELS OF FORTUNE" TYPE MACHINES... MADE OF STEEL, ALUMINUM, PLEXIGLASS OR WHATEVER...NOR "BICYCLE WHEELS CONTRAPTIONS"...ALL THOSE CONTRAPTIONS, EVEN PROVING OU, NONE OF THEM WILL BE GOOD/FUNCTIONAL FOR THE REAL WORLD APPLICATIONS...MEANING NONE OF THEM ARE "MARKETABLE"...HOWEVER, ALL OUR MACHINES ARE... CAPISCI?

AND I DON'T MEAN TO CRITICIZE, NOR TO RIDICULE ALL THIS MODELS OR PROTOTYPES...THEY ARE ALL EXCELLENT FOR "PROVING A CONCEPT" FROM THE SCIENTIFIC FIELD POINT OF VIEW...BUT, UNFORTUNATELY, THEY ARE NOT READY TO PERFORM AT THE LEVEL OF THE EXISTING ONES OUT THERE.

AND, OUR ASYMMETRIC TECH IS NOT LIMITED TO PERMANENT MAGNET MOTORS EITHER...WE HAVE DONE HERE MANY SUCCESSFUL TESTS WITH UNIVERSAL MOTORS AS WITH BRUSHLESS TECHNOLOGIES...AND THEY ALL WORK AS WELL.

NOW, ALL OUR MACHINES GENERATE TWO(2) OUTPUTS , ONE(1) ELECTRICAL GENERATION AND ONE (1) MECHANICAL OUTPUT

SO, IN ORDER TO TEST FOR OVERUNITY WE MUST INCLUDE BY ADDING BOTH OUTPUTS, MECHANICAL PLUS ELECTRICAL.

Getting back to the Kindergarten Formulas about calculating OU:

In Our Machines We must add TORQUE/SPEED PERFORMANCE PLUS ELECTRICAL "RETURN" OR OUTPUT to be "installed" above the decimal equation or:

Asymmetric OU Calculation= Electrical Output (EO) PLUS Mechanical Output (MO)=EO+MO= TOTAL ASYMMETRIC OUTPUT

And Our Input is still the same old as any other existing machine...Electrical Input (EI)

So, in Our Machines We must Measure UNITY=EO+MO/EI which means:

Electrical Output(EO)+Mechanical Output(MO) Divided by Electrical Input (EI)

Now, when we start the "Big Issues" in Argumants and Controversy...is when it comes to measuring the Mechanical Output of our Machines...just because Our Technology Development so far in this Planet, does not offer a common/general and cheap/reliable/feasible way to measure Foot/Pounds of Torque in smaller machines...we search and we find all kind of contraptions that are not precise, complex, and a bunch of different measurements, Prony's, Phony's, etc,etc...in other words it is a Zoo to look for a Dyno for small machines...well after all that, then we have to argue with the "experts" in this fields of OU. related if it was not done properly measured...or other bla,bla,bla's...

Other words..."A Never Ending Saga"...

And unfortunately, the very precise Dynamometers out there are too expensive, beyond our limited budgets here guys...and even so, they are made for big size machines.

NOW, IT IS COMPLETELY UNFAIR, TO MEASURE OUR MACHINES OUTPUT, BASED ON ONLY ELECTRICAL OUTPUT TO ELECTRICAL INPUT, DISREGARDING THEIR HIGH LEVEL PERFORMANCE AT THEIR MECHANICAL OUTPUT.
AS IS ALSO UNFAIR TO MEASURE JUST MECHANICAL OUTPUT TO ELECTRICAL INPUT, DISREGARDING ELECTRICAL OUTPUT.

I HAVE SPENT THOUSANDS OF USD (LEGAL TENDER NOTES OR U.S DOLLARS) PLUS HUNDRED OF HOURS TO BUILD DYNO'S TO TEST OUR MACHINES...VIDEOS ARE ALL OVER MY YT CHANNEL...JUST TO SATISFY THE "AUDIENCE" OF THIS SKEPTICS AND THE OU REQUESTER CROWD...AND STILL THEY WERE NOT PLEASED...ALL THIS DEBATES ARE IN PREVIOUS PAGES ON THIS THREAD:

THIS IS SIMPLY WHY...I GET UPSET, WHENEVER I SEE THEM COMING AGAIN HERE TO ASK FOR THE SAME EXACT THING WE ALL HAVE BEEN DISCUSSING BEFORE...AND THAT HAS TAKEN ME, COMPLETELY, AWAY FROM KEEPING MY NORMAL DEVELOPMENT AND TEACHINGS TO ALL OF YOU THROUGH MY VIDEOS, DIAGRAMS AND MY WORK IN GENERAL HERE...JUST TO "SATISFY" THEIR "SELF NECESSITIES".

BELOW IS A TORQUE TEST VIDEO ON MY IMPERIAL P56 (N-S TYPE), WHERE I AM MEASURING ONLY MECHANICAL OUTPUT VERSUS ELECTRICAL INPUT, THEREFORE, I AM NOT CONSIDERING/READING, ELECTRICAL OUTPUT...MEANING TWO GATES OF THIS IMPERIAL MOTOR ARE JUST OPEN, EXHAUSTING ENERGY FREELY TO THE AIR...

TORQUE_TEST_ONE

AND YOU MOST REALIZE, THIS "DEBATES" EXPAND IN TWO WORLDS...ENERGETIC FORUM PLUS YOU TUBE CHANNEL...WHERE I HAVE TO DISCUSS WITH ALL KIND OF "PUBLIC AFFAIRS".

You Guys could go to COMMENTS on the above video...and check all the time wasted on just arguments and responses back and forth...what I take for me, are ALWAYS the POSITIVE VIEWS, POSITIVE COMMENTS, and as you can see there are some there.

ANOTHER VIDEO CONNECTING MECC ALTE GENERATOR TO ASYMMETRIC IMPERIAL (N-S), OBTAINING 1000W OUT IN RATED INCANDESCENT LAMPS:

ONE ENERGY METER READ OUT TEST 1

I WILL COME BACK TO REDO ALL THIS TESTS...ONCE I FINISH THE STILL PENDING TO ARRIVE IMPERIAL P56 (SAME AS SHOWN ON VIDEOS), BUT THIS TIME WOUND WITH THE ALL NORTH TYPE, TO MAKE COMPARISONS IN ENERGY CONSUMPTION AND OUTPUT...

FINAL NOTE: SORRY FOR SUCH LONG POST...FOR THE MEMBERS THAT HAVE BEEN WITH ME ALL THIS TIME...THEY KNOW ALL THIS GOING ON...SO, MAINLY I AM DOING THIS LONG EXPLANATION FOR ALL THE NEW MEMBERS WALKING IN AND OBSERVING THIS "SOAP OPERA" ABOUT UFO SHOWING OR NOT SHOWING OU...IT MAY LOOK LIKE THAT I HAVE NOT TRIED TO SHOW THEM, TO PLEASE THEM...EVER...BUT THIS WAY, YOU SEE THAT I DID...VIDEOS ARE TIME STAMPED, AND YOU ALL KNOW I CAN NOT CHANGE THE UPLOADED DATES.


KIND REGARDS TO ALL...


UFOPOLITICS

EDIT 1: I Corrected all COP explain, adding EFFICIENCY as the percentages, since COP is just the division number between O/I

[Fingregor123]

Tried editing previous post but Pc playing up....

would anything from here suffice to cut our teeth on while waiting the UFO Kits?

Maplin | Maplin - The Electronics Specialist | Order Online for Fast Delivery

Have one close by....well close ish.

Regards

Finn.

[Fingregor123]

Hi Kogs,

Thank you for your constructive reply. I had thought that the UFO kit contained all the essentials required, however if you state that I require two kits to build one of the motor/generators then I will do so. Had hoped to keeps some reserve £$'s for the guy who will be winding my motor and assisting. We don't have much money but plenty of time.

Thanks again..

Best

Finn.

[iankoglin]

Just to say I've placed an order for the UFO motor kit.

I did message UFO and quite understandably he didn't reply in the midst of all the "this and that"

Only been a member for a short time but have had some very helpful insight via PM's.

OU may be a myth.....it may not.....from the information I've watched and researched on this motor I honestly can't be sure. (no offense) I just don't have the knowledge or understanding of everything just yet. But am willing to learn and give it a try.

I have to find out for myself , and if it means buying a kit and actually doing something to test the theory in the hope it can be for the good of the planet then so be it. OU would be a bonus, a more efficient motor would be better than nothing.

I am unable to judge anyone on this forum without having tried it myself and as such cannot give credence to the perceived positive or negative comments until I try it myself.

(I will not be replying to any posts in relation to my post here except via PM.)

It is simply to let the community and UFO know there is a new NOVICE tester on board and my ethos in this venture. Which is mainly due to UFO's and others continued attitude of free sharing. Thank you.

6 weeks and counting for delivery of the kit.

Kindest regards,

Finn.

G'day Finn
Welcome aboard I am sure you will do very well here and you will not be disappointed.
I do suggest firstly if you have not already done, buy 3 small RS motors or 3 Goldmine motors and from 2 of them you can follow the instructions previously detailed earlier in this thread and make one asymmetric motor.

You need 2 motors because you need two commutators, two brush boards and from the 2 cases you make a longer one to cater for the extra commutator and brush board also you probably might need an extra shaft.

The third one is to compare the new one against the old one

I think by making the small motor first it will not require many $$'s and you will gain a lot of and needed experience and once you have don this motor you will be able to breeze through the winding of the Imperial P56

I am sure you will be able to modify these motors and if you have any difficulties Just post here there are ones here that will direct you in the right direction

Even though there is a lot of rubbish going on here you will get the help you need and also if you do have problems others new here can also learn from your overcoming them
Looking forward to your builds

Kindest regards

All my friends call me Kogs

[Zardox]

Time and money

Now it's not that I have a lot of time or money to spare but the fact is that I will do with it what I damn well please to. I just wish these people would stop trying to save me no matter what thread I am reading.

[Fingregor123]

I'm in.

Just to say I've placed an order for the UFO motor kit.

I did message UFO and quite understandably he didn't reply in the midst of all the "this and that"

Only been a member for a short time but have had some very helpful insight via PM's.

OU may be a myth.....it may not.....from the information I've watched and researched on this motor I honestly can't be sure. (no offense) I just don't have the knowledge or understanding of everything just yet. But am willing to learn and give it a try.

I have to find out for myself , and if it means buying a kit and actually doing something to test the theory in the hope it can be for the good of the planet then so be it. OU would be a bonus, a more efficient motor would be better than nothing.

I am unable to judge anyone on this forum without having tried it myself and as such cannot give credence to the perceived positive or negative comments until I try it myself.

(I will not be replying to any posts in relation to my post here except via PM.)

It is simply to let the community and UFO know there is a new NOVICE tester on board and my ethos in this venture. Which is mainly due to UFO's and others continued attitude of free sharing. Thank you.

6 weeks and counting for delivery of the kit.

Kindest regards,

Finn.

[Midaztouch]

So there is not actually supposed to be OU, just higher efficiency in simple terms?

Thanks for giving a rational response.

Ok Dude! I see! You want someone to say that the "A1 Mo-Gen is Over Unity"!


@ Team,

Well, I'm not a professor, expert, guru or even an electrical engineer. But the A1 Mo-Gen 4 stators and above, are all awesome! We will begin building and testing of the 4 stator all North winds soon! Energy alliance is the key to success! Please continue promoting what we're doing!

Now, let me leave you with some food for thought...

1.) We all know that the all north asymmetric 5 pole(2 stators/2pole north group wind)is about 51% motor and 49% generator. It has 2 inputs & 2 outputs. The 2 stators run on 1 input. Leaving 1 output to produce and collect energy.

2.) The all all north asymmetric 56 pole(4 stator/6pole north group wind, "Imperial Motor"). It has 4 inputs & 4 outputs. The 4 stators can run on 1 input. Leaving 3 outputs to produce and collect electricity.

Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[dR-Green]

Only A few weeks ago, we reached the all North winding style! The electrons flow like an express super electron highway through our A1 mo-Gen! I've been studying motors for two years, many hours a day. There is no mainstream motor or any other that I have read about is like our A1 Mo-Gen! Dollar$ for dollar$, system pound for system pound, RPM for RPM, watts for watts, there was no motor on this planet' that I read about, that can even come close to what this motor can do! This is a true motor/generator! A compact powerhouse all in one!!!!

So there is not actually supposed to be OU, just higher efficiency in simple terms?

Thanks for giving a rational response.