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My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

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  • Originally posted by Midaztouch
    Obviously you don't care. So, why did you ask?
    Hi Midaz.

    I care as I'm devoting many hours to the subject and your response alludes to the Imperial test having been undertaken. I would certainly like to read the post(s) that give the background to the build and outcome...Or even a recollection of the result would be informative.




    • Why not tell the man about the results about the imperial NS assym motor that was tested imperial? What is the power( volts x amps in to the oem motor and what is the power out of both outputs on the assym NN motor/gen?


      • Merry Christmas

        Merry Christmas!
        "Peace On Earth, Good Will Towards Man"
        Last edited by DadHav; 12-24-2014, 05:50 PM.


        • Merry Christmas to everyone. Thank You for all the time and hard work that you all have put in this year. All the best to everyone.
          From a watcher, from New Zealand.


          • As I have contended all along ... the 12,000+ year old design being 'passed forward' or 'recovered' is based on a combination of the 3-fold and 4-fold swastikas and this is key, err they are the KEYS to understanding the 'field' and how to 'extract' energy from it.

            magnetic motor magnético, magnet motor, free energy, moteur magnétique,moteur magnetique,motor magnético,pricipio magnetico triângulo/quadrado,
            this site might be of help

            Scroll down at the above link >>> there appears to be a modification to the John Bedini model, are the modifications comprehensible?

            large image:

            merry SSSG X-mass

            Last edited by Raphael37; 12-27-2014, 03:18 PM.


            • coil harmonics


              Sam I have been going back over materials on the mmgmttire thread and playing with different frequencies and duty cycles on the cold electricity coil that ufo recommended to build. I had skipped this project and moved right into replicating the gold mine r/s wind and then continued with several other winds including the Y and all north winds. There is definitely something that is a very interesting effect at higher frequencies and smaller duty cycle percentages. I have been using a monster driver with a Arduino to pulse the coil and have seen a great deal more power pick up when pulsing at frequencies in the two to 3 kilo hertz range. The available radiant energy seems to become stronger with smaller duty cycles around the 15 to 20% range. I have read that the longer the off time in the duty cycle that the more energy is drawn in from the environment and am trying to prove it a little more conclusively, before I post a video. I will say that the cold electricity on the cold side of the coil i.e. the cold side of the diodes are definitely more responsive to lower rpms, higher frequencies and smaller duty cycles. I wound my coil with two coils on the former. The inner coil is being used as a pick up coil and it seems to work opposite of the cold electricity coil. In other words as the rpms are increased and the duty cycle is increased the electricity induced by the collapsing magnetic field becomes stronger, the lights become brighter and so on. At the same time that the lights are becoming brighter, the cold side of the cold electricity coil are becoming weaker. I am wondering if this effect can be used to our advantage with the motors in order to help recharging the batteries? I noticed that when I replace the coil with an asymmetric motor that the higher the frequency the stronger the motor runs; more torque, more rpms. I have over the last 5 months been experimenting with a number of recharging scenarios. It would be great if one of these technologies actually were worthwhile. The problem that I am having with cold electricity recharging the batteries is elusive and inconclusive. Most of the methods take too long to recharge a battery. Although the voltage appears to move up quickly with many of these chargers the charge is superficial and the voltage moves back to the voltage prior to the charge and eventually the motor stops running. I have played with the auto relay charger as a proof of concept, a method that I noticed that you have used also. This charger seems incapable of charging the large lead acid batteries that we are using. I have not tried it with small batteries. I have not found any of the motors that I have replicated to be capable of recharging the batteries. One system that I tried seemed promising which was a Tesla switch that had a half battery and half capacitor combo. Wire two large caps in parallel and then switch them over into a series circuit. The caps would charge very quickly and would easily double the drive voltage available to the motor with a slightly different configuration than was the published method. Have you used any of these methods? I do think that the really high energy output methods of Don Smith and Kapanadze's replications of them rely on very high pulse rates that move us from electromagnetic fields into wave production. That is where the real multiplication of power comes. In the two kilo hertz plus range. I am sure that laminated steel cores and brushes will not be effective in these ranges. We will have to go to air cores or some other material that will not create electromagnetic flux. Many of these devices seem to utilize Tesla coils in conjunction with a pulser to drive the electromagnets and a relatively simple homemade capacitor. I want to research this a little more but time constraints and caution of the high voltages and amperages produced are holding me back. I am heavily invested in what we are developing here for now just looking for a more compact method of recharging the batteries. If any one has had better success with cold electricity recharging let me know. I have read that in many of the experiments that it took conditioning for the batteries to receive the charge. Has anyone any information on this aspect of recharging and reconditioning lead acid batteries?




              • Re: coil harmonics

                Originally posted by GChilders View Post

                Sam I have been going back over materials on the mmgmttire thread and playing with different frequencies and duty cycles on the cold electricity coil that ufo recommended to build. ... If any one has had better success with cold electricity recharging let me know. I have read that in many of the experiments that it took conditioning for the batteries to receive the charge. Has anyone any information on this aspect of recharging and reconditioning lead acid batteries?


                I have been doing a lot of battery charging using the Imhotep Relay Charger, trying to extend lead acid battery life. For a while on alibaba you could get "battery desulphators", which seemed to have this sort of a design. I've been using a garden tractor battery for 7 or 8 years now, which I have been hitting with a relay charger. Shoulda died a few years ago... I have brought a few UPC batteries back to life that people were throwing out... A guy was doing a two-battery thread using ufo's motor-generator setups, early in this thread.

                Check out my post today on getting RE out of my AMC on the mmgm thread. I got some additional energy out possibly, compared to a conventional PWM but it was small, on the ragged edge of detection. I was a little disappointed, hope it works better on a quad stator... What I did notice was that the rpm was maximized with as low a freq. as the duoblink program could smoothly run the motor before it dies when you turn the freq pot to the minimum. As the freq rose, the rpm dropped. I need some better documentation and more tests before posting more.
                Last edited by sampojo; 12-29-2014, 04:56 AM.
                Up, Up and Away


                • 30v tests on AMC/GM unipolar

                  My AMC is performing great. Mosfets cool as cucumbers on 30v too. got 8241 rpm at 100% duty cycle. Also got more power at a higher frequency. Was running on lowest poss freq at 12v just a little bit off the bottom, guessing at 10 cps, could see the diodes flashing. Runs rough when your at the low end, and the current would be unreadable on a digital VOM bouncing around erratically, then I would adjust the freq up until I could get a reading. Noticed the LED on one circuit would be flashing at a slower erratic beat freqency on top of the normal flashing too, suspecting some RE effect. On 30v, at the lowest freqs, noticed this additional pulsing WAS TRIGGERING my NEON on just one side!! (dimly, I turned out the lights to get a good look. Unlike Cornboy I did not put 3 in a series to get the needed voltage tolerance, I put a 50k resistor inline instead) When it was flashing, this seemed to reduce available energy to the motor, and so I had to turn up the freq, estimate it was running stronger at several hundred cps now. (I will put an O-scope on things soon, promise!)

                  Hey Ufo, my motor has a hotspot right at midbody between the magnets. I have been trying to break in the motor, getting it warmed up letting it run for hours at a low power. Its getting looser, but I suspect I have a spot where it drags a little, think my shaft is not as true as it could be. So when I let it rip for a few minutes full power the hot spot got to 121deg, hot brushes 113, other 107degF. When do I have to worry about either burning things up or losing magnetism? My hobby motors burned up around 130degF. I am quite suprised its hot in the middle. Rubbing on something? No magnets there... No rubbing noises that I can tell...

                  This pic doesn't show the holes I have now around the brush sets. I don't want to lose this motor, its running pretty good... Wish it had a full set of magnets on it. Definitely got my sights on a quad set up with my other GM quad motor, wall to wall magnets there!

                  Two more boards to build! Need a snow day...

                  1/10/15:UPDATE: Wrong about no rubbing on my double rotor dual stator. Only one explanation for the hotspot in the middle, FRICTION. So I got my children's old toy stethoscope out and did some close listening, had some rotor parts showing manufacturing differences plus a coat of epoxe rubbing. Put the rotor in my drill press and filed things down to fit. just added about 1500 rpm to the top end!!!
                  Last edited by sampojo; 01-10-2015, 06:02 AM. Reason: clarifications
                  Up, Up and Away


                  • P66 Rewind update


                    It has been a while ..... but, I'm still working on this.

                    Building 'chic condo el grande' for my baby chicks sidetracked me back in the summer. (Chick condo el grande is Almost Heavenese for a 'really nice chicken house'.

                    My girls, 7 Golden Comets, are now egg factories and we are enjoying the eggs.

                    I had tried to stuff 6 turns of wire per group on the P66 Armature. Mr. UfoPolitics had suggested 5 turns. (Should have listened, but I had to try.)

                    So, after removing all the windings, I started rewinding with 5 turns per group and have gotten back to where I was.

                    Took some pics and posted them on photobucket: Rewind Photos by GlenWV | Photobucket

                    Will attach a couple of them here, too.

                    My thought is to wind a couple or four groupings per day until the thing is finished.

                    (I wonder how Kog's Nessie is coming along?)

                    Attached Files


                    • Rotor Spin

                      Originally posted by Midaztouch

                      Does your rotor spin freely in the housing with the green epoxy on it?

                      Keep it Clean and Green

                      Yes, the rotor spins freely.
                      I purchased this rotor new and the epoxy is from the manufacturer.

                      The rotor shaft was replaced and is now double ended.

                      All the rotors that I have removed from Imperial P56 & P66 motors have been epoxied from the manufacturer.

                      (gotta wind some more this weekend!)



                      • Winding my third GM window motor redux

                        Per my last post I am doing a unipolar rotor (10 poles) for my quad stator motor body. 5 poles are wound and I am running a little behind methinks as far as totally filling the rotor with copper wire this go-round. I like to run on the + side of 1 ohms. I don't think my meters are that great at detecting 1 ohm, think they are +/- .3-.4 ohms~. I had used my alcatel wiring guide and calculations indicated bifilar 32ga, but that was coming in around 1.7ohm for my 18' of wire I am using. Not sure if the recycled Old-TV degausing wire I started using is actually 32ga, hard to get a good measurement with the mike. Going trifilar seemed perfect and the ohms were def. hovering around 1+. I used Ufo's Quad-Bent-Y 10 pole NS winding on the old rotor and 26ga, 16' filling it quite nicely. But it was .6-.7 ohm resistance, ran hot (130deg+) and was a candidate for burn-up. So I am trying to get away from that problem. I might have been able to go 20+' on a quad-filar 32ga. I probably need to go longer to compensate the lost resistance from adding an additional strand. But then going longer and thicker diameter might be the double whammy that won't fit. I dunno, am I compacting the wire after each coil much better now, confusing my past experience? Better pull out my spread sheet on this and rerun some more calcs with a better resistance value and thickness estimate....

                        Here are some pics, I'd like to get anyone's feedback.

                        Rotor is 50%, done, 5 poles. Don't look very filled up do they...

                        I want these motors to do some work for me, lotta test ideas.

                        UPDATE: takes about an hour to make the trifilar cable, wrap a pole, and compress windings. So like 10 hours time to wind this whole thing, so trying desparately not to undo things. However I may undo the last one, leaving 4 coils wound with 18" of trifilar, and balanced since winding alternate sides of rotor(2 and 2 then). I really seem to have underestimated how the litzed wires will lay. They fill every nook and cranny very efficiently apparently, and leave more room to add copper. So for a series of wires I think I will up to a quadfilar at about 22' and see how those look on the next few poles!!!
                        Last edited by sampojo; 01-13-2015, 08:43 PM.
                        Up, Up and Away


                        • 5-pole unipolar extended to a 20-pole rotor

                          Originally posted by Midaztouch
                          UFO and Team

                          I think this is where the 5 pole should have been single coils, then it would look more like the 3 pole's magnetic attributes.

                          I reviewed the past posts before I posted this post.....

                          I see that you and Gary started talking about my "NOW conclusion" last year March but never finished. It's seems as though the 5 pole has to be wound with single coils as Gary said and a thicker wire should be used as you said.(we should be able to use the same or more #turns with the thicker gauge wire and keep the specs for ohms resistance) Also, the coil should be the same diameter as the magnet for magnetic balance.

                          It's the only way that has not been discussed. Has anyone done this?
                          In my opinion, the 5pole should produce better performance than what we have seen so far.

                          Ufo, you wrote that you did it using 18 gauge on a motor. Tons of power. & weird readings. Unfortunately...the way I see this "Magnificence of Three" to be achieved...we need that North Firing Coils could "Exhaust" their South Poles through an "Open Space"...meaning, not having a "Mirror Effect" right at 180º apart...that would actually cancel this "Free" amplification/redirection...and I said "unfortunately" just because -SO FAR- this same "effect" could not be "Symmetrically" reproduced or Mirror Imaged on a Four Stator , Four Brush System.
                          ....Anything more to add?

                          Keep it Clean and Green
                          Yo Midaz,

                          Sounds pretty interesting as I have my Baldor 20-pole waiting to go. Ufo once proposed I wind it like a radio-shack 5-pole. I was worried about the lost copper winding on the inner poles if left empty, but maybe they could be wound with inner and outer grouping? 4 poles on the outer coil and also wind an inner coil on the 2 inside poles. I'd be up for it if it is supposed to be better than the overlapping unipolar designs.
                          Last edited by sampojo; 01-09-2015, 11:46 PM.
                          Up, Up and Away


                          • Originally posted by Midaztouch
                            Sampojo, UFO & Team

                            Look at the 5 pole image post #7288. When one asymmetric commutator segment is winded with a singular coil that wraps around 2 poles(*2poles coil is the same size as the magnet). There is a lot more space per slot to concentrate on the single coil's magnetic strength; thicker wire & more turns. The 5pole motors could be winded with overlapping independent singular coils... 2 poles per asymmetric comm segment/coil...

                            The single input coil's magnetic field in a small motor is allowed to travel through the motor to the opposing steel lanminations then directed to the opposing magnet. The single north coil uses, both the north and south magnets/stators simultaneously for torque & RPMs. The factory settings for input and output are perfectly set for max magnetic strength timing for the 5pole motors... Deflection of the coil's south end magnetic field against the steel laminations, on the 5pole, is the only place where everything could go wrong. Then we would have a lukewarm test results.

                            Magnificence of 3 is NOT 100% accurate. It's the Magnificence of 2 (Magnets/stators) & "SINGULAR" Coils!!! The North and South magnets/stators are in perfect Harmony with the independent singular coil... The Chapter should read, "The Magnificence of the 3pole Uni-polar Asymmetric Motor"

                            Examples below:
                            1.) Commutator Segment = 5
                            Singular North Coil = Wind is wrapped around 2poles(*same size as the magnet)
                            Singular North Coil = 5
                            Coils overlapping
                            Use the factory input settings

                            2.) 5pole 360°; motor brush input =1, + idle time =1.5, + gen brush output =1, + idle time =1.5... (1 + 1.5 + 1 +1.5) = 5
                            *Idle time keeps the motor cool... UFO said, "Ilde time lets the Radiant Energy in."

                            3.) 16 turns on a single coil -vs- 8 turns; coil1 +8 turns; coil2 = 16 turns total. The single coils magnetic strength is stronger than the two coils combined. *Added bonus is that the magnetic vortex of the single coil is clear and flows freely.

                            From the images of 2 stators(5 pole and up) & 4 stators. Do the north pairs & north group windings HINDER the full magnetic potential/torque performance of Asymmetric Unipolar Machines?... For the 2 stator/magnet motors, the only way to find out is wind the 5pole with Independent Singular Unipolar coils.

                            Keep it Clean and Green

                            #Wish I had access to test equipment & CAD software

                            Hello my friend Midaz, Hello to All,

                            Ok,Midaz, after we exchange some mails, I think I've got your idea and points.

                            This concept will work, no doubt about that, and I believe you are right about concentrating the magnetic field within a single coil will 'compact' (let me say it this way) the strength in lesser poles and will not split coils in two. This splitting deviates the bisector angle,or it becomes two bisectors...either one, and yes, it will weaken it somehow. I was going by flux transfer at common shared coils from one to the other...

                            I like to try this in a Radio Shack first...and see what it does.

                            If I got it right, the CAD Diagram should look like below:


                            The only thing that must be done for it to be timed properly, would be to move for a short angle the brushes towards the rotation 5 to 10 degrees in order to avoid bisector engagement between stators and coil being fired.

                            Either move the brushes...or rotate both commutators to proper angle (counter to rotation) when assembling rotor, then have brushes at exact alignment to stators center.

                            So, yeah, let's give it a try friend...we never know, we are all experimenting here....and this is a 'Democracy' here in the Open Source spirit...

                            I like the simplicity of this configuration...and like I said...You are right, it makes sense...You may have seen what I have missed prior when dissecting the three poles and starting to walk into the All North concept.

                            For comparison purposes I will wind the RS Motor this way with the same number of turns and gauge, as I did when I made the video where N-S Pairs versus All North Pairs was made, differentiating from the all N Pairs that I would try to fit the two coils total turns into just one coil and two poles.

                            I will try to "squeeze" this new project in front of my BIG pile of pending work...

                            Regards Friend

                            Last edited by Ufopolitics; 01-28-2015, 02:59 PM.
                            Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci


                            • @ufo
                              I was looking at the new drawing of the wind that you and Midaz are proposing and this looks like you are winding it to be in repulsion mode, As in the R/S wind. Is this correct? It looks as if both coil 1 and coil 2 are receiving energy from the brushes with coil 1 bisector slightly off the bisector of the north stator and both being North poles in opposition to each other. But I noticed that you have reoriented your brushes and they are positioned differently than either of the R/S or all north embodiments. In the R/S embodiment the brushes are located in a line drawn across the separations between the N + S pole stators and in the all north embodiment the brushes are located in the position of the original embodiment. Here the brushes seem to be rotated cw about 15 degrees or so from the original embodiment. I have about 25 degrees of adjustment built in to both embodiments, these are actually goldmine 5 coil motors not R/S. I have stripped a number of motors recently in preparation for this project, I have been working on a number of other projects that I felt that I needed to get out of the way first.

                              My other question is how this affects the coil that the generator brushes are contacting on the opposite side of the rotor? I have noticed a significant increase in power in all of the winds when both of these coils are fed power in opposition to the polarity of the magnet. The best method is to test the theory and see how it works out. I recently broke one of the coils on my all north wind testing it to destruction in a test involving pulsing the cold electricity coil and using a 1000uf 120 volt capacitor to pump up the voltage from a 12 volt battery. I found that when I pulsed it leaving the duty cycle at about 20% the cap would pump up to almost 200 volts in a few seconds and then I had a switch that would allow the cap to empty the voltage into the all north motor as a load. Well this is obviously too much voltage and too much amperage for the design of this little motor but surprisingly it did not self destruct as I thought it would. In my mind I thought that it could not possibly handle the amperage and voltage that I was putting to it. It screamed in protest as the bushings handled the rpm load without getting too hot! Then it started running rough and I pulled it back apart. Expecting to see welded brushes and commutator I was quite surprised. No pitting no burning on either of the brushes or commutator. The roughness was from one of the wires breaking close to where it was connected to the commutator. I will rewind this with the original wind and continue with the other rewinds this week.

                              @ Midaz
                              Thank you for bringing up the conversation between ufo and myself. I have had this project on my mind since that conversation took place. I remember someone saying that organizing creative people is a bit like herding cats, they tend to have a mind of their own and are easily distracted into other pursuits. I have been examining a number of other projects and replicating them in pursuit of several applications other than the motors we are working on here and they have taken longer than I expected them to. I needed to work on the programming of the arduino and built several more monster drives for the Imperial motors that I received. And frankly I was a little burned out on working on the goldmine motors. They are inexpensive in cost but require a lot of skill to replicate. I am looking forward to getting into the replication of the Imperial as they seem like such high quality motors and, at first look, to be easier to modify the embodiments to our specifications. Well, I am going to close for now. I will post my results when I have finished with the new rewinds hopefully by the end of the week.




                              • GChilders - Agree, The Goldmine motors are cheap but hard to work with. After the one I built imploded I have just been watching for someone to make a valid replication before investing on bigger stuff ( yes I'm bad ). To my suprise it has been a long time and am still waiting. I like the new winding proposal. I might have to break down.