My Asymmetric Electrodynamic Machines

[GChilders]

Future Tests

@All
I want to test the following standard tests for small motors. 1)RPM/Voltage This is a very important test and although it is not a true measure of the efficiency of the motor it is a good indicator. 2)RPM/Watts This is a better indicator of the efficiency of the motor but still is not totally accurate. These tests will be conducted with a direct connection to the battery and are a very poor indicator of the abilities of the asymmetric motor as we are not taking advantage of the superior design which allows us to collect and recycle the energy that is in the motor. Also I want to test the temperature; ambient, bushing and case. This will give us an idea of how much energy is being converted into heat within the motor.
The other tests that I want to include have more to do with the unique abilities of the asymmetrical windings. I consider asymmetrical windings to be those that allow us to collect more from the environment than we are expending in powering the motor. The term commonly used is COP Coefficient Of Performance. A COP of 1 is supposedly the highest value any system is suppose to be able to achieve. The only way that is possible to exceed this is by picking up energy from the environment. Wind exists and has power to move a wind mill, a wind generator, or a sail boat and because little or no energy is introduced on our part the system may have a COP of an infinite value. This is not free energy. It will cost us some money to build a system to collect this energy. I may sound like Captain Obvious at times when I say something like "the energy is already in the environment but only when the wind is blowing". The same can be said for Solar, in the form of Solar Panels, and Gravity, in the form of water mills. These can be considered substantial boosts to energy but only work when the wind, sun, or water are providing the energy to the system. They could be better described as fuel less forms of energy. You do not need gasoline, diesel, alcohol, wood, or coal to power them.
There is a unique capability of a coil to bring energy into itself from the environment. This is why all coils are called inductors. They have resistance, and they have some capacitance but they have this unique ability to suck up energy as an electromagnetic field is collapsing. Thus electricity is being inducted into the coil, by it's design. All asymmetrical motor designs take advantage of this ability, as do generators and alternators, ignition coils, transformers, LC tank circuits, and LCR tank circuits. Having said all of that these are the tests that I want to perform to make a decision on which of these windings is a true winner. The winner will be decided by it's ability to recharge the batteries that are giving it power. The winding that returns the most charge is the winner, pure and simple. I have built enough of these motors to know that they all out perform the symmetrical motor in torque and RPM/Volt. The question in my mind is, "Which can recharge the batteries the most, so that the life of a battery charge can be extended or deemed completely unnecessary?"
So here are the tests that I will perform to hopefully get a handle on this before I wind the Imperials.
1)Lenz test. I will wire a incandescent light in the form of a 12 volt signal lamp to the generator side of the motor, The motor with the least decrease in the RPM of the motor wins. This is the winding that the Lenz effect has the least effect upon the motor. Thus it should create more energy to charge the batteries.
2)Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) v/s Incremental Increases in Frequency (IIF). This test will be conducted by adding a capacitor and a couple of diodes to the circuit and test to see which method fills the capacitor the quickest throughout the rpm range of the motor. The winding that fills the capacitor with the lowest time elapsed and the method PWM Or IIF will be the winners. I will describe the difference between the two methods when the test is conducted.
3.The last test I want to conduct is the advantages and disadvantages of a dual system v/s wiring the brushes in series. I cannot see any advantage to the method of wiring the brushes in series, but perhaps I am missing something. When I have wired these gold mine motors in series the motors always take a hit on the rpm. I will also explain this test in more detail later. Usually we increase the voltage by wiring more batteries in series. I have been using independent systems. One for the generator side and one for the motor side. The increase in torque with both methods is significant. I wish to document this effect with this test and compare the results side by side. I know that batteries do not like being charged while they are being drained. The idea here is similar to the Tesla switch, as one system is running the motor the other is collecting energy and then the roles are reversed. At some point the capacitor mentioned in the previous test is filled and when that system begins to be used to power the motor, the capacitor is emptied into the idled system battery. One battery charging and the other drained to run the motor.
These tests will give me enough confidence to wire the Imperial. They will not be conclusive and will probably not satisfy everyone. If you wish to test other things go right ahead. No one is stopping you from conducting tests, and sharing your results here. I am not here to jump through the hoops that you put in front of me. I have a number of projects waiting for me to complete and the more time that I spend on the gold mine motors, the less I have to spend on the really important ones. I have Imperials waiting to be wound, and quads waiting to be converted to electric power. I will share my findings, take or leave it, I really do not care which you decide to do. There is a saying that I like a lot, "A man convinced against his will is of the same opinion still". I will never be able to convince the doubters that this works. I can only hope that you will give this technology a chance. It may change your mind. I want to get my quads converted. And then move into testing additional findings there. After one of the Quads is converted, I will take it to a dynamometer, and have it thoroughly tested for Horsepower and Torque. I will share my findings then. Torque on these tiny motors is meaningless, They were not designed with torque in mind. The Imperial is a different story. That motor is designed for torque. Massive rotor with a much larger diameter, large diameter wire, to handle massive amounts of voltage and amperage. Large, powerful magnets that will give a huge amount of torque to the motor.
I am finished with rebuilding the rotor for the AN2 that was damaged during the burn in period. Before I burn it in, I have decided to do a short video on the timing innovations that I have put into these embodiments in order to dial in different effects. By the end of the week I hope to release the first group of tests. I am still working out the details of the first videos in my mind. There are a lot of points that I wish to cover and explore. What constitutes a winner to me once again is a powerful motor that recycles the energy and reenergizes the batteries that are driving it. Energy wasted by conversion to heat is a non-starter for me.

@Midaz
Here are a couple of photos of the rebuilt rotor that you asked for.

Shows the two commutators



A few different view points with rotor rotated.

Cheers

Garry

[HuntingRoss]

@Mark, I do believe it is a "good" Wow......do some simple math there...the overall amps increase is only 0.55 amps (1.3-0.750), while the RPM's is about TRIPLE the Symmetric Motor.

Hi UFO. I am probably seeing this from a narrow perspective because I'm trying to apply this technology to powering a scooter (and moving on to a larger EV) but the apparent leverage of Amps & Revs against the OEM has little advantage if the torque is not there. As you know I have been struggling with this. My solution, soon to be realised (or not) with my 120 tooth sprocket is to turn superior revs into torque and then see whether the leverage still exists. I think it will, but I have been wrong before.

@Mark: You could collect the collapsing field energy by setting the output brushes before reaching the 180º reversal...no doubt about that.
BUT, you are still reversing each coil as it gets to 180º, therefore when it reaches the second stage to output you will be reversing your output, which means they will cancel any out-coming energy...result: you are collecting energy only from the first step before each coil reverses.

I maybe have misunderstood this. I thought the the generator brushes took the coil set 'down' removing the field energy and presenting an empty coil set to the motor brushes. In other words...No coil reversal at the motor brush.

Related to higher Output than PSU voltage...you will have to measure also the amps to have the complete 'package'.

I've extracted this from my post #7384 in regard to the SC#6

29th Feb 2015 - Static Scooter Test, Output load tests and photo of build.

26.5v @ the scooter controller output.
SC#6 ~ 24.7v @ 2.13A @ 8506rpm @ 26.6v out [52.6W] No load
Connect SC#5 to SC#6 output
SC#6 ~ 23.5v @ 3.87A @ 8015rpm @ 26-40v out [90.95W] The output was fluctuating a lot, this doesn't happen with the OEM. A scope of this output would be interesting.
SC#5 ~ 26-40v @ 2.52A @ 10,878rpm [notional watts 65W]
Connect OEM 450W to SC#6 output
SC#6 ~ 23.5v @ 4.09A @ 8054rpm @ 22.2v out [96.1W]
OEM 450w ~ 22.2v @ 2.62A @ 442rpm [58.16W]

Once again the SC#6 under load takes less power than the SC#6 no load + SC#5 load. Does anyone have a theory on this ?
Notice also the OEM 450w pulling 58W compared to SC#5 load @ 31W.

SC#6 static pull (torque) test 5.9kg (OEM 8.8kg)

I would need to dig back to find the 24v 450w OEM no load motor results wired straight to the battery but it is very close to the 442rpm loaded off the SC#6 output...which is still buzzing at 8054rpm.

I still don't know how to interpret these results. The SC#6 loaded is slightly less power than the two motors separately but it's by no means 'free' energy. It's taking 96W to make 58W on the output and takes 52W just sitting there spinning.

Happy Hunting

mark

[Ufopolitics]

@Garry and Mark...

Originally Posted by GChilders
Originally Posted by GChilders View Post
The biggest surprise of all was the performance of the AN1 v/s the stock goldmine. 3500 RPM at 12.4 volts and 750 milliamps for the stock goldmine and over 9100 RPM at 12.4 volts and 1.3 amps for the AN1! Wow is all I can say.

Hi Gary. I'm not certain if that is a good 'wow' or a bad 'wow' but the figures do not surprise me. I have consistently found the asymm motors to draw more current with vastly increased revs. It's the torque I have found to be wanting. I hope your tests highlight where I'm going wrong.

Hello Garry, Hello Mark,

@Garry: First congratulations Garry on this nice future testing!...Excellent work friend!

@Mark, I do believe it is a "good" Wow......do some simple math there...the overall amps increase is only 0.55 amps (1.3-0.750), while the RPM's is about TRIPLE the Symmetric Motor.

Related to Torque, Garry would have to add some EQUAL, IDENTICAL mechanical load to both machines (OEM and whichever of the Asymmetrical ones) then see what happens under mechanical load.

The worst Symmetrical side is not actually on a Free spin testing (no load) BUT whenever we add mechanical loads.

I recently bought a couple of tools for my grass cutting...from EGO (Chinese made)...a weed eater and a lawnmower, the later one is absolutely good working machine....but under heavy loads of grass it draws batteries too fast, and batteries are "State of the Art" LiFe with self ventilation and inboard BMS (Batt Management System)...preventing from full drain and compensating each cell for drain as for charging in a balanced state.

The Weed eater is a nightmare...I have ordered the second one by now...and it has a two stator, 12 pole symmetric, brush motor.

After a few minutes of running time under load, motor starts to slow down to finally stop...and smoking the freshly dropped resin...meaning, 'steaming hot'

None of this two tools have a controller but a full trigger switching On or Off.

I will eventually replace this motor with an Asymmetrical one but have not found a ready to install model (Shaft is pretty big for the size of rotor, and so the attachments to shaft, plus bearings, etc) and factory is not supplying motors by itself up to now. I have Two weed eaters so far, so one would be the OEM...and I will run a short video on this future tests.

Originally Posted by GChilders View Post
One commutator does not work!! You will always kill the dipole when the rotor turns 180 degrees and this is where the difference is when comparing the symmetrical motor and asymmetrical. When you force the current to reverse in the coil you cannot capture the collapse of the electromagnetic field.

Not strictly correct.

[I've edited this section of my post to correct the inaccuracies.]

Symm motors and Single Comm Hybrid motors 'flip' the coils as stated...BUT...the point I wanted to make is

In a symmetric motor the collapsing electromagnetic field is lost as you say, but in a double comm asymm motor and in a single comm twin brush configuration the collapsing field is captured. My SC#6 motor has demonstrated higher output voltage than the PSU input voltage which I can't explain but believe this embodiment to be more efficiently harvesting the collapsing field.

Happy Hunting

mark

Ok, above is a great point from both of you.

@Mark: You could collect the collapsing field energy by setting the output brushes before reaching the 180º reversal...no doubt about that.
BUT, you are still reversing each coil as it gets to 180º, therefore when it reaches the second stage to output you will be reversing your output, which means they will cancel any out-coming energy...result: you are collecting energy only from the first step before each coil reverses.

Related to higher Output than PSU voltage...you will have to measure also the amps to have the complete 'package'.

However, there is an advantage to have independent coils with one commutator, versus the full symmetrical having an all around fully shorted circuit ...symmetrical systems kind of 'lies' about performance under light loads, BUT, when they are under heavy mechanical loads...under this critical scenario they rapidly kicks to high amp draw way over the stated spec's plus excessive heating till burning up.

The fully independent coils in dual commutators is in no way comparable to any build that reverses the coils by having one commutator....Coils have a 'brake' here...an 'idling stage' which allows them to cool off plus energy flow in only "One Way". And, like I have written before...the one thing our Asymmetrical Motors would need to perform superb, is to attach a parallel Non Polarized Cap to each independent circuit (coil, pairs or groups)...however, this would have to be calculated related to coil resistance and impedance as to create the perfect tank circuit for each type of winding. Unfortunately we have not gone deep enough into this subject.

I have done this testing with amazing results...:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Unfortunately, I don't have the time to work on this right now because of known issues I have posted before.

Regards to both of you and good luck in your work!


I am waiting eagerly for those test results Garry!!





Ufopolitics

[HuntingRoss]

The biggest surprise of all was the performance of the AN1 v/s the stock goldmine. 3500 RPM at 12.4 volts and 750 milliamps for the stock goldmine and over 9100 RPM at 12.4 volts and 1.3 amps for the AN1! Wow is all I can say.

Hi Gary. I'm not certain if that is a good 'wow' or a bad 'wow' but the figures do not surprise me. I have consistently found the asymm motors to draw more current with vastly increased revs. It's the torque I have found to be wanting. I hope your tests highlight where I'm going wrong.

One commutator does not work!! You will always kill the dipole when the rotor turns 180 degrees and this is where the difference is when comparing the symmetrical motor and asymmetrical. When you force the current to reverse in the coil you cannot capture the collapse of the electromagnetic field.

Not strictly correct.

[I've edited this section of my post to correct the inaccuracies.]

Symm motors and Single Comm Hybrid motors 'flip' the coils as stated...BUT...the point I wanted to make is

In a symmetric motor the collapsing electromagnetic field is lost as you say, but in a double comm asymm motor and in a single comm twin brush configuration the collapsing field is captured. My SC#6 motor has demonstrated higher output voltage than the PSU input voltage which I can't explain but believe this embodiment to be more efficiently harvesting the collapsing field.

Happy Hunting

mark

[GChilders]

Assembly and burn in period

@All

Well the pit crews have been busy with the final adjustments to their motors. All have successfully performed their one hour burn in period with the exception of the AN2 which UFO helped Midaz with. No fault of the design, it was performing very well when a brush came loose about 45 minutes into the test and wreaked havoc with the motor. After quick examination another brush ring was prepared and ready to be installed when it was discovered that the commutator had been severely damaged. The empty brush holder had caught one of the commutator segments and pulled it off of the commutator. Some of the wires for the rotor had also been cut. A new rotor is in progress, I still have 4 gold mine motors left, so it shouldn't take too long to get it back in the competition. In the mean time I will have the AN3 do a burn in and if it passes will move on to starting with the N/S v/s the AN1. Then the AN1 v/s the AN3. By then the new rotor for the AN2 should be ready and the AN2 will be tested. Whew!! Already some surprises have occurred in the burn in periods and I expect more after the timing adjustments have been dialed in. The biggest surprise of all was the performance of the AN1 v/s the stock goldmine. 3500 RPM at 12.4 volts and 750 milliamps for the stock goldmine and over 9100 RPM at 12.4 volts and 1.3 amps for the AN1! Wow is all I can say. This is direct feed only, in the burn in test, just trying to get the optimum setting for the timing. I will video each of the motors as the burn in continues with an eye towards showing how I managed the timing of these motors. It requires quite a bit of extra machining but should really allow me to dial in the timing perfectly. Each of these replications have extra slots cut in the embodiments that allow the brush rings to be spun about 10 degrees in each direction from center and fastened in place. This allows both commutators to be aligned with each other and both brushes to be advanced or retarded together. I am not going to try to split the ring to move the motor brush and generator brush independently of each other. The brush ring has already been weakened by the number of holes drilled and tapped into it. This motor is far too much trouble to strive for that. It would be better to redesign the embodiment with a different brush type such as the ones in drill motors that can be independently mounted. Stay tuned as the battle continues.

@Midaz
I have close ups of the AN2. The problem is that I used a clear epoxy in balancing the rotor. Between the green shellac finish and the epoxy it obscured the winds. Since I have to rewind this rotor now, perhaps, it will come out more clear in the photos. Also I shot the photos at a resolution that was really large. When I put in on the website only about 1/3 of the photo showed. I did a quick fix in Paint and resized it. This cost a lot in clarity. I will try to reshoot all of the photos in a more appropriate resolution for the camera. I believe I answered your question about the commutators. All of my replications have always had two commutators per rotor. One commutator does not work!! You will always kill the dipole when the rotor turns 180 degrees and this is where the difference is when comparing the symmetrical motor and asymmetrical. When you force the current to reverse in the coil you cannot capture the collapse of the electromagnetic field. In a later demonstration I will demonstrate the influence of the magnetic and electromagnetic fields. This is what propels these motors, not the magnets. The magnets are much smaller than the field that they project. It is the attraction, repulsion of these fields that can extend well beyond what you might think they are capable of. I have 1" diameter neodymium magnets that I can spin that will spin a similar magnet in the opposite direction 6" away without any difficulty at all. Last, I am aware that the timing on the AN2 is still a work in progress. I explained above that pains that I have gone through to be able to dial in the timing.

Cheers

Garry

[HuntingRoss]

Nice work Garry. I eagerly await the outcome of your tests. I also hope you will include a torque test for all the motors...even a basic setup is very informative for relative performance.

I have a three more motors to write up, SC#8 #9 and #5.1 and a just finishing off my 120 tooth sprocket to allow rev and torque tests from my motors to a 12" dia dirt bike wheel.

Happy Hunting.

mark

[Midaztouch]

Gary

No bad! Should be exciting!


Is the Timing the same as the factory?

Do to the wind of my design, "Singular Coil", the wind only interacts with one magnet for the 5 rotor pole motor. The timing of the positive input may need some adjustments. As you get closer to TDC, the torque and RPMs will increase. For adjusting the positve input timing, I thought about the RPMs & torque vs power consumption. RPMs & torque vs power consumption equation should be as balanced as possibe to the OEM.

Do you have a clear pic of the winds for my design? The pic is too blurry for a closeup view.

Power to the people



Keep it Clean and Green
Midaz

[GChilders]

Dropbox resolved

@All
Dropbox has changed their method of sharing photos. They once had a public folder for sharing photos. Any way they have made it more difficult to share in the interest of security. Here is a link for those using dropbox that will give you a work around.

Using Dropbox to Host Images on your Website

solved my problem right away. simply change https to http unless you want to encrypt your photos and replace "www.dropbox.com" with "dl.dropboxusercontent.com" and the link will work perfectly, until they decide to change it again obviously.

cheers

Garry

[GChilders]

Dropbox photos

@All

Sorry guys the images are not posting and I thought that I had shared everything correctly. Maybe the resolution setting needs to be adjusted for the web site here. Does any one have any ideas??

Cheers,

Garry

[GChilders]

The Battle of the Windings:

@All
I have finished the windings and made new embodiments for the gold-mine 5 pole motors in order to compare the benefits of each and see which ones perform the best. Here is a Photo of the competitors in the order of replications performed by myself. Others came before and so much of this is not new to the thread and is a follow up on my part to make good on a promise that I would build the all north, which I did, and test it which I did. But lately there has been a controversy on which winding will out perform the others, with much calling out and no substance. I do not have a bias in this competition. I have no idea which winding will win overall. What I am hoping to find out through this exercise is that the different windings will have different characteristics that will help all of us to understand better what "UFO", Raul, has been trying to disclose to us. I have not tested the windings against each other prior to this.

The competitors are from left to right, The North South winding; AKA "The Radio Shack Winding". This is the fourth R/S winding that I have replicated and I must say the best that I have done. Second is the Y winding, this competitor has a difficult history and a well deserved reputation for being the toughest replication of all. It will not be competing directly against the first wave of competitors but will come into the battle after a winner is chosen from the first wave. Next is the winding that upset the apple cart and put the entire thread into a tail-spin, The All North winding. This beauty has been slow to catch on but I am hoping we will see more replications of this winding, as it has some very interesting characteristics. This is my second All North winding and I tested the first to destruction. The next competitor is the All North winding developed by UFO and Midaz. This is still an All North winding although significantly different than the original and should be interesting to see how it plays next to the Master's. Last but not least is a winding that is probably the ugliest of all the windings. It is also an All North winding but one that harkens back to the simplicity of the three pole. Each coil is simply wound in a clockwise direction and connected to the commutator on each end. This is the most simple of all. I really do not care for it, aesthetically, but in the interest of exploration, it needs to be included. Last, but not least, is the humble symmetrical motor that was cut up, ground ,welded and rewound to create each of these replications, the gold mine motor, which will be tested side by side with the other windings.

Here are some close up photos of the embodiments and the rotor windings. Each has it's own personality and hopefully will show us completely different characteristics that can be instructive to all. I have had fun building these and will have even more fun testing them!!

The N/S goldmine 5 pole wound in the same manner as the Radio Shack motor.

The four rotor wound with the Y configuration a single rotor that uses four goldmine rotors on a single shaft. Along side is the empty rotor waiting to be wound in the winning configuration.

The original all north 5 pole motor which I have named AN#1.

These two rotor will be tested against the all north. The one on the left is the configuration that UFO came up with for Midaz, and the one on the right is the one most similar to the 3 pole.

And of course the goldmine.

Now a note on the Preparation Of The Contestants.
It has often come up in the thread that these asymmetrical motors have an unfair advantage, more copper, yada, yada, yada. Well I for one do not believe we need to be limited by what the OEM decided was best for us. We decide what characteristics we want our motors to have and then wind them accordingly. Having said that, here is how I wound each of these to make the playing field as equal as possible. I took the time to take the first coil of wire off of the first gold mine rotor completely in tact, so that I could measure the length of the wire after it came off. This is not my usual process as I just want to get the wire off. Then I made an assumption, possibly incorrect btw, that all of the rest of them would be the same length. The length of this wire was 18' 6" or approximately 5.5 meters. So I measured out the R/S and the All North original wind 9'3" and put a piece of tape there and then measured another 9'3" and then wound the first coil to the tape and the second coil of the pair to the end of the wire and tied them off and checked for continuity as I went. There are specific details on how to wind these windings in the thread and I will not go through them here but as everyone knows these are wound differently. The other two windings I simply wound the entire 18'6" on to the rotor. I checked for resistance and continuity. Resistance was 2.5 ohms on each coil pair or coil, plus or minus .1 ohm. Close enough for our purposes. The wire on each was 30 AWG. After this I sprayed the coils with laquer to hold the wires in place and balanced them on a prop balancer. I just purchased this tool and it does an amazing job for such a simple tool. I am impressed with it. I did not want the well balanced symmetrical motor to get an edge here. The motor costs a little over 4 bucks and they balance it, imagine that. So I feel that I have given the competitors the best chances of proving that they have what it takes to win??!!
Next step is to assemble, time them and give each an hour or so burn in period. Then put the competitors on the starting line. May the best winding win.
Every thing in these builds is based on knowledge that I have gleaned from this thread and the other "My Motors got me to Tap into Radiant Energy". I have read many other articles and replicated many other devices but think these are worthy of exploration. Obviously everything exposed here is based on the findings of Nikola Tesla, as were his explorations based upon the findings of Michael Faraday, Oliver Heaviside, and even his old boss Thomas Edison and a host of other great men in the field of electro magnetism. We stand on the shoulders of giants as we hope to gain the knowledge they discovered and bring those discoveries back into useful devices that we may use in our everyday lives.
Stay tuned as I post videos of the competitors in action. UFO got the ball rolling and hopefully he and his students will continue to expand this base of knowledge. He said from the beginning replicators wanted and needed. We have lots of theory but someone has to test these ideas. I have found that what looks good on paper may expose many complications in the real world as we try to implement the design. Small changes in configuration may make a huge difference in the benefits we all may reap.
Cheers
Garry

[YahwehisSpirit]

Hello YHS,

Sorry about your problem, first, according to your picture below...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

You still have room there for more wire, that could be a reason why it don't turn, because your coils generated magnetic strength is not enough compared to your double magnets all together.

Second, re-check your magnets alignment and make sure you don't have a north on top of a south, instead of a south on top of south, etc. If they are stacked in alike array, the rotor would never spin.

I see the way you are hooking the wires to commutator elements, and they are perfect, opposed to each others at 180º (coil-element)...but make sure brushes are touching elements also at center gap between magnets.

Those are all the issues-so far- that I believe you should check.


Take care


Ufopolitics

If those are the problems Im sure it is the coils being to small. I did the magnet from a string to tell the poles and its n to n, s to s, it actually made it difficult to join the casings because i had to force the magnets together and hold it while my wife wrapped it with the fiberfix which luckly the resin from it leaked into the casing and bonded the magnets which keeps them from repelling eachother. So ill re wind the coils to 50 turns each should make them each about .7-.8 ohms .. And yes the brushes were first set to the "neutral" position which caused the smoking, actually it was the main location that causeed the brushes to smoke, though the smokeing made me think not enough resistance.

[Ufopolitics]

Troubleshutting...1

Alright so i wired the armatur 33 winds an arm, .5 ohms a coil. I played with neutral fireing position and every other possible but nothing. my brushes start burning and smoking a few firing positions did create sparks. Do i need a higher resistance in the coils or whaaaaat??? any idears?

Hello YHS,

Sorry about your problem, first, according to your picture below...

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

You still have room there for more wire, that could be a reason why it don't turn, because your coils generated magnetic strength is not enough compared to your double magnets all together.

Second, re-check your magnets alignment and make sure you don't have a north on top of a south, instead of a south on top of south, etc. If they are stacked in alike array, the rotor would never spin.

I see the way you are hooking the wires to commutator elements, and they are perfect, opposed to each others at 180º (coil-element)...but make sure brushes are touching elements also at center gap between magnets.

Those are all the issues-so far- that I believe you should check.


Take care


Ufopolitics

[YahwehisSpirit]

Help

Alright so i wired the armatur 33 winds an arm, .5 ohms a coil. I played with neutral fireing position and every other possible but nothing. my brushes start burning and smoking a few firing positions did create sparks. Do i need a higher resistance in the coils or whaaaaat??? any idears?

[YahwehisSpirit]

Sweet!!

Hello YHS,

I believe 29 awg is too thin for this motor...yours looks like a 550 body type, not the 256 body or the typical Radio Shack is, which is OEM wound with 30 awg.

I really do not understand why you need to strip wire to measure it before winding coil in motor?!...unless you are going by the wire length table to resistance in ohms.

All you need to do is to wind ONE COIL first...then strip the ends that are going to attach to the commutators elements and read it from the two end terminals.

Just make sure you wind very tight, and pressing it on both sides of coil , MAKING SURE to leave room for the other two Coils seating right next to this first one...that is all.

If you still wanna go with 29 awg, then do like 60 to 100 turns on each coil.

Please write down your turn counting...as all coils must have exactly same total turns.

This is it friend...just get it rolling


Ufopolitics

Sweet Sweet Sweet!!!! Btw this is exactly what i was asking ->All you need to do is to wind ONE COIL first...then strip the ends that are going to attach to the commutators elements and read it from the two end terminals. Yeah not radio shack motors they're from cordless drill motors made one body with two! Im going to get winding when i get off work tomorrow! Question is which is better 29awg with alot of turns or 24awg with few turns...maybe ill try both... Btw it would be YIS.

[YahwehisSpirit]

Sweet!!

Hello YHS,

I believe 29 awg is too thin for this motor...yours looks like a 550 body type, not the 256 body or the typical Radio Shack is, which is OEM wound with 30 awg.

I really do not understand why you need to strip wire to measure it before winding coil in motor?!...unless you are going by the wire length table to resistance in ohms.

All you need to do is to wind ONE COIL first...then strip the ends that are going to attach to the commutators elements and read it from the two end terminals.

Just make sure you wind very tight, and pressing it on both sides of coil , MAKING SURE to leave room for the other two Coils seating right next to this first one...that is all.

If you still wanna go with 29 awg, then do like 60 to 100 turns on each coil.

Please write down your turn counting...as all coils must have exactly same total turns.

This is it friend...just get it rolling


Ufopolitics

Sweet Sweet Sweet!!!! Btw this is exactly what i was asking ->All you need to do is to wind ONE COIL first...then strip the ends that are going to attach to the commutators elements and read it from the two end terminals. Yeah not radio shack motors they're from cordless drill motors made one body with two! Im going to get winding when i get off work tomorrow! Question is which is better 29awg with alot of turns or 24awg with few turns...maybe ill try both...