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  • Hi guys, hopefully this is of use:

    For anyone wishing to display pictures.

    The first thing you need to do is upload the picture from your hard drive to a hard drive which can be accessed by the internet.

    I can recomend using Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing | Photobucket as it is free and simple to use.

    Once you have uploaded the picture/s to photobucket, the picture file/s are stored on an accessible hard drive out there in cyber space - wherever photobuckets server is located.

    Photobucket provides the location of the uploaded pictures URL.


    A URL is simply the web address of the picture file eg. examplepicture.jpg would be stored at http://www.madeupwebaddress.com/examplepicture.jpg


    All you have to do once you know where the file is stored on the internet is cut and paste it into the text of your reply and add two tags.

    "[IMG]" at the start

    &

    "[/IMG]" without the quotes


    Therefore "[IMG]"http://www.madeupwebaddress.com/examplepicture.jpg"[/IMG]"

    without the four " quotes would show the picture and not the tags.

    Cheers,

    Paul
    Last edited by soundiceuk; 12-28-2012, 11:22 PM.

    Comment


    • Thanks.

      Originally posted by prochiro View Post
      Cornboy 555
      A URL is the internet location that the item you want to show is stored at. I store mine in Photobucket. Search for photobucket and register, it is free. Then upload the picture into photobucket and copy the address of it into your buffer,(with Ctrl/C. Then start your post in EF and follow John-g's directions. Cant wait to see what you have to show.
      Dana


      Thanks Dana, i tried a second time, it uploaded the URL but no pic.

      Thanks Soundiceuk and Dana, will give photobucket a go.

      Regards Cornboy.

      Comment


      • OHMs

        Hello Machine, UFO
        I am not done winding quite yet but of the coils I have done in #18 gauge wire 14 turns I am seeing a solid .5 Ohms on all coil sets. Also on the distance from lower comm to rotor edge, like UFO said 19mm is the best distance.
        Dana
        Last edited by prochiro; 12-29-2012, 01:19 AM. Reason: edit
        "Today's scientist have substituted mathematics for experiments and they wander off through equation after equation and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality."
        Nikola Tesla

        Comment


        • Hi UFO
          I was wondering what the down side would be to wind the motor with say 20 gage to get a few more turns and a higher resistance? Would we loose to much tork or speed?

          Comment


          • 20 Gauge...

            Originally posted by Zardox View Post
            Hi UFO
            I was wondering what the down side would be to wind the motor with say 20 gage to get a few more turns and a higher resistance? Would we loose to much tork or speed?
            Hello Zardox,

            I have 20 Gauge...but I decided to go 18...
            The 20 Gauge will create a weaker magnetic field than 18...no matter if you add 2-4 more turns per coil...not good...unless you could go Bifilar...but I doubt it.

            Higher resistance will bring down Amps...but the price is high...higher operating temperatures and slower and less torque Motor...however, it depends on your application.

            Last thing here is (A repetitive issue I will keep reciting over and over...) to keep the resistance around 1.0 Ohm...and when I mean 1.0 Ohm...is over or equal to 0.5...and below 1.5 Ohms...rather have between 0.6 to 1.2 range is perfect.

            Regards


            Ufopolitics
            Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

            Comment


            • Windings...

              Originally posted by prochiro View Post
              Hello Machine, UFO
              I am not done winding quite yet but of the coils I have done in #18 gauge wire 14 turns I am seeing a solid .5 Ohms on all coil sets. Also on the distance from lower comm to rotor edge, like UFO said 19mm is the best distance.
              Dana

              Hello there Dana!


              Good...keep it that way...0.5 is pretty good (not perfect...but ok)...may your meters have a 0.1-0.2 error?...it could be man.

              I have tried with cheap meters...they have errors...like you've said...I also use the EXTECH...to me they are great meters...they take a while to compute the resistance value...and that is good...means their processors are working "hard" to get right values.

              Now remember that 19 mm is at the original symmetric commutator side...on our Asymmetric side we could go up to 23 mm

              Regards


              Ufopolitics
              Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

              Comment


              • Yes...

                Originally posted by machinealive View Post
                Well, UFO, now I haven't built any 8 brush motors, and never put a lot of thought into that wiring, but I know, I am almost there.
                First, when you say series you mean make two of the coils energize in series, to double resistance?

                Based on 56 drawing



                Battery Pos goes to brush at south magnet, where p1 is just about to touch. The output brush, below this brush in image, will go to the brush at 180*, where p15 is about to touch. So p1 and p15 become series . pos battery to p1, neg p1 connects to pos at p15, and neg p15 is going to neg battery.
                That would be motor input, then p1 will dump at gen brush 90 * ccw. p15 will dump 90* ccw, also connected in series, while p8 and p22 energize, and so and so on.


                I would think that was conventional, so probably that is wrong. But its almost 3am and I gotta get up for work at 7am, so i'll think on that tomorrow if that is wrong.
                I know, i need to review the theory, but i gotta keep building, just sooo close.

                Also need switch between neg motor brush input and positive generator brush output.


                Hello Machine,


                Yes you've got it right...even being 3:00 AM there...

                Unconventional would be to turn on (either series or parallel) P-1 with P-8...Right?...it would be completely asymmetrical when looking at the 360 Quadrant...so yes...you've got it .

                IMPORTANT ADVICE: Do not even try to pulse/control that motor at 0.3-0.4 ohms...in parallel...or will fry your FET's...well done.

                Also, take a resistance reading after you put Motor together...in order to include brushes resistance...they should add up some...


                Regards (I swear I wrote "resistance" instead of regards... )


                Ufopolitics
                Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                Comment


                • @UFO
                  Just for the fun of it, I used internet wire calculators to see what 20 gauge wire might look like. Based on area of wire if #18 gives 14 winds per pair then #20 would give 22 winds. Then when area of groove is cross checked, the groove will hold 55 winds of #18 or 86 winds of #20. Calculators show that the #18 should be close to .56 ohms and the #20 should be close to 1.3 ohms. We also can consider #19 as a medium. With the small type motors, we know that .5 ohms does not give then there peak performance. My head may be out in space but it just seems that scaling up may offer similar results. It would be interesting if someone who has not already wound there rotor could use #19 or better #20 as an actual test. I totally trust your computer like mind and vast experience but I am just putting this idea back to you for one more look as the potential winds count and ohms increase seems substantial to me. If it worked, there goes our high amps.
                  Dana
                  Last edited by prochiro; 12-29-2012, 04:58 PM. Reason: edit
                  "Today's scientist have substituted mathematics for experiments and they wander off through equation after equation and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality."
                  Nikola Tesla

                  Comment


                  • Gauge...

                    Originally posted by prochiro View Post
                    @UFO
                    Just for the fun of it, I used internet wire calculators to see what 20 gauge wire might look like. Based on area of wire if #18 gives 14 winds per pair then #20 would give 22 winds. Then when area of groove is cross checked, the groove will hold 55 winds of #18 or 86 winds of #20. Calculators show that the #18 should be close to .56 ohms and the #20 should be close to 1.3 ohms. We also can consider #19 as a medium. With the small type motors, we know that .5 ohms does not give then there peak performance. My head may be out in space but it just seems that scaling up may offer similar results. It would be interesting if someone who has not already wound there rotor could use #19 or better #20 as an actual test. I totally trust your computer like mind and vast experience but I am just putting this idea back to you for one more look as the potential winds count and ohms increase seems substantial to me. If it worked, there goes our high amps.
                    Dana
                    Yes Dana, I know what you mean...
                    However...I have 0.6-0.8 Ohms...per Pair, and when I connect them in "Classic Symmetrical Series"..the RPM's drop down from 4200/3800 (connected to Generator)...to 2400...that is 1200 RPM's below Generator spec's...
                    Therefore, rising the Ohms too much...will kill the power.
                    And honestly...we have 28 Pairs there...so they will not get for too long energized...since for each Pair, the Off Times are greater than On's times...

                    But...I think a 19 awg...will be almost perfect there...

                    I am uploading in a few...a Video of a test run...take a look at it...


                    Regards


                    Ufopolitics
                    Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                    Comment


                    • Hey,

                      I just went to bolt the motor together, and the bolts they sent me are too small,F&*K!!!! I'll email Imperial tonight.
                      I was at the fastener store today too. Now everything is closed till monday. What a bummer.
                      You guy's should check if bolts fit holes.

                      Machine

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by machinealive View Post
                        Hey,

                        I just went to bolt the motor together, and the bolts they sent me are too small,F&*K!!!! I'll email Imperial tonight.
                        I was at the fastener store today too. Now everything is closed till monday. What a bummer.
                        You guy's should check if bolts fit holes.

                        Machine
                        Oh Man!!!...that is terrible!...

                        Hey, remember what I said about how important the Fasteners were?...how just one bolt could delay everything...
                        Sorry about that Machine, My Dear Friend!!...I've got some extra ones...can I "email" them through Tele-Transport Mail Systems Methods?...

                        I must remind you that Monday...is December 31st of 2012...New Year's eve...

                        Well... keep rubbing it right?! F%&#$!!....


                        Regards


                        Ufopolitics
                        Last edited by Ufopolitics; 12-29-2012, 08:59 PM.
                        Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                        Comment


                        • Yes,

                          You said it UFO. At least I got my wiring quizz right.

                          I'm not done looking yet, I may still get my bolts. I'll spend my time getting brushes lined up, and getting table set up to drill and weld.

                          Maybe i'll wind that other motor with 19.5 ga, if I get bored.
                          Last edited by machinealive; 12-29-2012, 09:03 PM.

                          Comment


                          • Ok,

                            I went and looked again. It seems the two housing ends have different size holes drilled. The end with shaft has threaded 3/8 holes, the other end looks slightly larger then 1/4 but smaller then 5/16, ( 9/32?). So I will likely drill out those holes to 3/8, and get 10 " X 3/8 on monday.

                            UFO, do you know what size bolts you use?

                            Sorry guys, if anyone else gets this. Dana, you got the latest one, did your ends match?

                            Machine

                            Comment


                            • Asymmetric Imperial Test 1

                              Hello to All,

                              ASYMMETRICALLY MODIFIED IMPERIAL MOTOR TEST 1 - YouTube

                              In this Test, Motor is connected in Symmetrical Parallel (Pairs facing each others at 180, at front and rear brush set, just as they come from factory)
                              Battery Bank: Three 12V 33 Ah /AGM Werker brand.
                              Feeding:Straight Linear (Non Pulsed)
                              Reading Volts from Batteries drop and DC Amps Clamped at Positive.
                              Switch 1: Turns on P1/P15 set at 180
                              Switch 2:Turns On P8/P22 set at 90 from switch-set 1 (Full Quadrant On)

                              At stage 1 (SW 1 ON) RPM's reach 7150, consuming @32 Amps
                              At Stage 2 (SW 1 ON) RPM's rises above 7400 at @33 Amps

                              Battery Drop:Less than 2.0 Volts during performance, recuperating almost full at rest (total lost=0.5V)

                              Original Motor Spec's could be reviewed below:

                              Permanent Magnet Motor - 56 Frame


                              Regards


                              Ufopolitics
                              Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                              Comment


                              • Machine...

                                Originally posted by machinealive View Post
                                Ok,

                                I went and looked again. It seems the two housing ends have different size holes drilled. The end with shaft has threaded 3/8 holes, the other end looks slightly larger then 1/4 but smaller then 5/16, ( 9/32?). So I will likely drill out those holes to 3/8, and get 10 " X 3/8 on monday.

                                UFO, do you know what size bolts you use?

                                Sorry guys, if anyone else gets this. Dana, you got the latest one, did your ends match?

                                Machine

                                Machine...

                                The two long attaching bolts are 1/4 Inch 20, or coarse thread...

                                If you are going to wind other motor do it in "Generator Mode"...meaning...

                                Instead of grabbing seven poles per Coil, do a sequence of Three, Three and Three...where you will be overlapping (grabbing) One Pole from the next to...and so on...you will still have P1 South grabbing seven poles total...but, instead of just being one winded coil...you will have three South Coils, three South Bisectors....And the same procedure with P1 North...three coils...and so on and on...
                                Alignment of brushes to commutator element would be based on first South Bisector (just like in video)

                                So each "Pair"(no longer "Pairs" but Groups now) will have a total of Six Coils...Three Norths, Three South...therefore three bisectors North, Three Bisectors South...

                                This configuration will also run as a Motor, but, much slower than first wound one... heck of a Torque, though. However, this design is better for generating energy purposes...

                                Both Machines can easily assist to run each others...while both will be outputting energy...

                                Put some nice Electrolytic Cap Bank...1000uF/100 V...like 8 or 10 of them parallel to Batt...and watch what happens when you turn battery supply off...and not disconnecting Cap Bank...

                                Remember Tesla's words on 3,6 and 9...


                                Regards


                                Ufopolitics
                                Last edited by Ufopolitics; 12-29-2012, 11:37 PM.
                                Principles for the Development of a Complete Mind: Study the science of art. Study the art of science. Develop your senses- especially learn how to see. Realize that everything connects to everything else.― Leonardo da Vinci

                                Comment

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