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The Crystal Radio Initiative Proposed by Eric Dollard - who will be the first to prove Tesla right by lighting a 100 watt bulb from an AM radio station through the ground - and disprove Einstein simultaneously?

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  #31  
Old 04-17-2012, 03:05 AM
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Jake,

Eric said that it is not easy to get three coils to resonate together. It took him about a year at Landers to properly tune his receiver. As xee2 was saying, your magnification factor (Q) will be much higher if you can get the coils into a symbiotic resonance. This heightened magnification factor is apparently what allowed Eric to light the light bulb.

He also said that if you are having trouble getting these coils to resonate then don't use the extra coil and it would still work. However, I don't know if this will light a light bulb without the heightened magnification factor. This might just be for a telluric receiver.

Have you tried using an aerial (dipole) and the TMT style antenna at the same time for a comparison on an oscilloscope? This is what Eric is talking about in order to see the difference in phase angle of the two signals to see that the telluric transmission is propagated faster than the above ground transmission. This would be the evidence of a faster than light propagation.

Dave
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  #32  
Old 04-17-2012, 03:14 AM
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The credit for the drawings goes to Eric Dollard. Those are his pictures from the Dollard thread.

And the LED is lit. I am able to take the large 20 turn coil and attach it to either my fireplace or stove vent hood or large metal object(i.e. antenna) and light an LED to a decent glow. It is not full brightness but it was constant and even my wife freaked out a little when I said there was no battery. The other end of the coil has a Dr Pep can.

My first attemts to get a joule thief to brighten up the light were a failure but I will revisit the JT idea a little later as attaching the coil to an antenna now allowes me to light the LED to a level that does not require the JT.

Without attaching to an antenna I can only sometimes get a very faint glow.

ALSO this coil is not resonant at 1620kHz. This is the station that is supplying the power. It is 10kw more than 5 miles away. And at night it goes down to 1kw. Even at night I can see very very faint blips of the LED.

The coil attached to the fireplace surround and DP can is resonant at ~2200kHz depending on where and how I excite it. I KNOW that LED will go balistic if I can get it tuned to 1620. Using a function generator at 1620 will not light the led. Turning it to 2200 will light the LED beyond a glow and one might say bright enough.

PROBLEM!! - Tuning for brightness does not seem to like external capacitors and REALLY does not like alligator clip leads. To get it to where it is now required respacing the turns of the coil and tapping the coil in the right spot. but even that does not let it drop down to 1620

Eventually when I figure out how to tune the coil without needing capacitors I will move on to the extra coil. Using the extra coil now will either help or hinder depending on what I have going on. So I took it off and will revist it when I get the secondary(large 20 turn coil) to 1620.
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Old 04-17-2012, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Web000x View Post
Jake,

Eric said that it is not easy to get three coils to resonate together. It took him about a year at Landers to properly tune his receiver. As xee2 was saying, your magnification factor (Q) will be much higher if you can get the coils into a symbiotic resonance. This heightened magnification factor is apparently what allowed Eric to light the light bulb.

He also said that if you are having trouble getting these coils to resonate then don't use the extra coil and it would still work. However, I don't know if this will light a light bulb without the heightened magnification factor. This might just be for a telluric receiver.

Have you tried using an aerial (dipole) and the TMT style antenna at the same time for a comparison on an oscilloscope? This is what Eric is talking about in order to see the difference in phase angle of the two signals to see that the telluric transmission is propagated faster than the above ground transmission. This would be the evidence of a faster than light propagation.

Dave

I saw this post after I posted my last post.

It is quite a troubleshooting mission to tune three coils. I am having extream difficulty tuning one and I don't even know if I am doing that right. but I think I am getting a feel for it. Its hard to tell how much of the tuning should be done with distributed elements alone. As I noted in my last post adding a capacitor no matter how tiny seems to reduce performance. Putting my hand ~1" from the soda can peaks performance. Touching the can kills it.

I have assembled all that is necessary for version 2. It will be the same dimensions as the first unless I can figure out how to lower the resonant frequency about 400kHz. Instead of using 14ga I will be using 2.21mm OD x 0.91mm ID copper tubing. This will more than double the active copper compared to what I have now. I don't know how important that is but it feels right. The primary will have slightly more and can be narrowed down to match. Same for the copper plate primary cap. Now thats a lot of copper. Trust me I have been buying it by the pound at the scrap yard as it comes in.


I do not have a scope capable of the comparison. But I am sure if I can light a 100w light bulb my wife will let me buy one.

Thanks for the input.
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:22 AM
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Originally Posted by jake View Post
I am having extream difficulty tuning one and I don't even know if I am doing that right. but I think I am getting a feel for it. Its hard to tell how much of the tuning should be done with distributed elements alone. As I noted in my last post adding a capacitor no matter how tiny seems to reduce performance. Putting my hand ~1" from the soda can peaks performance. Touching the can kills it.
Use a metal plate connected to earth/bottom of the secondary with adjustable distance from the can, and position it for peak performance. It won't like a variable cap very much across the secondary (unless maybe it actually goes down to zero pF), the type with rotating plates. I think vacuum variable caps might be usable here but they are expensive, so a metal plate near the can should do the trick. You can also lower the frequency by using a bigger can/pieces of metal. I think it's the surface area that applies in this case. Try connecting progressively larger pieces of metal and see what happens.

Also the bulb that Eric has recommended since is 28v 1.12 watt. I think that will be quite a task. The most I've seen on the scope with my flat spiral coil is 210mV so there's no possibility of lighting the bulb with that. I expect I need much better grounding which will be done at some point, but there's no way of adjusting the windings either so that's about the most I'll be able to do with that coil for the moment. [edit] Although I'm not entirely sure if it will even be possible with a flat spiral at all
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake View Post
I saw this post after I posted my last post.

It is quite a troubleshooting mission to tune three coils. I am having extream difficulty tuning one and I don't even know if I am doing that right. but I think I am getting a feel for it. Its hard to tell how much of the tuning should be done with distributed elements alone. As I noted in my last post adding a capacitor no matter how tiny seems to reduce performance. Putting my hand ~1" from the soda can peaks performance. Touching the can kills it.

I have assembled all that is necessary for version 2. It will be the same dimensions as the first unless I can figure out how to lower the resonant frequency about 400kHz. Instead of using 14ga I will be using 2.21mm OD x 0.91mm ID copper tubing. This will more than double the active copper compared to what I have now. I don't know how important that is but it feels right. The primary will have slightly more and can be narrowed down to match. Same for the copper plate primary cap. Now thats a lot of copper. Trust me I have been buying it by the pound at the scrap yard as it comes in.


I do not have a scope capable of the comparison. But I am sure if I can light a 100w light bulb my wife will let me buy one.

Thanks for the input.
I assume that you are using the resonance detection method that Eric had me post recently?

As far dropping the resonant frequency of your coil, Eric had nothing to go off of except his memory for developing those formulas for design parameters. This is all in the experimental stage of getting these formulas correct. It is possible that you need to readjust the constants given by Eric by setting the coil dimensions equal to the measured resonance/constant relations and solve for a new constant. Then you could more precisely target the desired frequency in your next build. That is what I would do anyway if I were trying to adjust the frequency.

Are you trying to parallel a cap with the secondary? I think it needs to resonate at the desired frequency without a cap.

Also, are you finding that there are two resonant frequencies for the secondary that exist in a pi/2 proportionate relation?

Dave
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dR-Green View Post
Also the bulb that Eric has recommended since is 28v 1.12 watt. I think that will be quite a task. The most I've seen on the scope with my flat spiral coil is 210mV so there's no possibility of lighting the bulb with that. I expect I need much better grounding which will be done at some point, but there's no way of adjusting the windings either so that's about the most I'll be able to do with that coil for the moment. [edit] Although I'm not entirely sure if it will even be possible with a flat spiral at all
It is hard to catch every detail that Eric throws me when I speak to him, but I am almost certain that there needs to be an extra coil in order to get the magnification factor to skyrocket which will in turn light the light bulb. I don't think I've seen an extra coil on your setup, or have I?

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Old 04-17-2012, 05:29 AM
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Yes there is another point at ~7200kHz. It's small by comparison to the other.

I was using the method you posted for the secondary to the best of my knoledge. But that's not much. Here is what I did:

For the test coil I used a pretty stout flat copper strip. I could only get it around two times. Placing the function generator across 1 turn of the test coil I set it to work. (always wanted to say that) I was not sure what the 50ohms was for but I figured it was accounted for by the 50 in the function generator.

Come to think of it I was not grounded. Or not grounded well. I will try again tomorrow outside where I have a semi decent ground. Am I correct about the 50ohms? Does the size of wire on the test coil matter?

And yes I have/had an extra coil. I took it off and things started to get better. That's when I realized something was wrong. Then you posted the tuning diagrams and I left it off. But the wire loosened up and now it has shorts all over the place. I'm using uninsulated wire for everything. I think I will move to insulated on my next extra coil.
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Old 04-17-2012, 02:52 PM
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That is not the frequency that I'm looking for. See if your meter shows any response around 1400 KHz or 3455 KHz.

I could be wrong but I think that there is not supposed to be a resistor in the excitation loop since there is no symbolic representation of one in the drawing. My interpretation of it is that if you have a function generator with an impedance of 50 ohm then you would use a 1 turn loop with no resistor and for 500 ohm impedance a 3 turn loop with no resistor. This is because you are interested in delivering the magnetizing force to the loop rather than trying to get a maximum power transfer between the oscillator and the excitation loop (where the majority of power would be delivered to the resistance). Try it with and without the resistor just to see if there is a difference.

Also, nobody will light a lightbulb without a GOOD ground. When I was quizzing Eric about how good a 'good ground' might be he said that the ground is a horrible conductor of electricity and that what you are really doing is creating a capacitive coupling to the Earth with the wires so make sure you have PLENTY of wires laying down against or buried in the Earth.

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Old 04-17-2012, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake View Post
Eventually when I figure out how to tune the coil without needing capacitors
To lower frequency just increase inductance (increase number of turns keeping everything else the same).

Suggestion: make coil with a lot of extra turns and then cut off turns until the frequency is where you want it.
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Old 04-17-2012, 04:45 PM
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Awesome

@ Web000x:
Good Grounding is on the horizon. What do you think of Eric's recommendation of the 80 ground radials? Is this needed in addition to the 16 ground rods or can this be used in place of the 16 rods. It would be easier to lay out compared to the rods. but the center rod will be 10-20' deep in good soil.

@ xee2:
I wish it was that easy. Problem is the coil I am using now was calculated to have a specific diameter, hight and length. I can't change one without screwing up the others.

BUT I have a slightly smaller diameter cardboard tube. I think it would be a good idea to build a setup based on you way of thinking then I could compare the two. Smaller diameter will allow more turns greater induction for same length of wire.
Can't wait to get out of work.
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Old 04-17-2012, 05:19 PM
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It sounds like he is saying that the 16 ground rods should be used if you are in a place that stays relatively moist. If the ground is dry sand or rock, you need to use the 80 ground rods of 14 gauge wire. I don't see why you could not use the 80 rod configuration in normal soil. (But I am also not Eric. I'll ask when he calls me next)

Be careful about using solid tubing to wrap coils. The dielectric constant needs to be a minimum. Anything above relative dielectric constant = 1 will retard the wave. This is why Eric builds all of his transformers with wooden dowels, to expose the wires to the dielectric constant of air.

Dave
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:42 PM
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BUT I have a slightly smaller diameter cardboard tube. I think it would be a good idea to build a setup based on you way of thinking then I could compare the two. Smaller diameter will allow more turns greater induction for same length of wire.
Can't wait to get out of work.
Not exactly true. Here are some links that may help you:

Inductance Calculator

Web Based Resonant Frequency Calculator
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:33 PM
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What is it?

So now I can light the LED to a continious glow at night when the statio is at 1000w. The larger primary made that happen. The correct capatance across the primary eliminates all blinking and the little hand is no longer needed.

There is very little improvement when the power goes up in the morning.

What it is:

Secondary - 20 turn coil of 14 gauge wrapped according to EPD. With attention to getting the coil to the proper EPD dimensions. So spacing was what it was.

Primary - Almost 2 turns of Stout Flat copper.
84.5mm wide
2857.5mm long(10mm short) Best I Could Do. Now I need to shorten the Secondary
1.35mm thick (STOUT)

I made this from a 1.25"dia copper pipe. Split it lenght wise on a table saw. Hammered an ax down the lenght to open it up. Used pliers to open one end wide enough to get it in a sheet metal roller and rolled it flat in 12 passes.

FWBR - Of 1N34 diodes across the secondary or from almost any point on the secondary to bottom of secondary.

LED - across the DC of the FWBR.

Ground or antenna? - Bottom of secondary is connected to Fireplace shroud/metal chimney. It is grounded via propane copper tubing but it also acts like an antenna since its big metal and sticks out the roof.



coments and questions are welcome.
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Old 04-20-2012, 07:19 PM
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So now I can light the LED to a continious glow at night when the statio is at 1000w.
Congratulations. Thanks for the report and photo. Is your only antenna the short wire on top of the primary coil (or are you connecting to an external antenna wire in addition to the fireplace ground)? Please post a link to the page where you got the EPD info.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:33 PM
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@ jake

Replacing LED with a capacitor and then using capacitor as a battery for Joule thief circuit should produce brighter LED. You must be getting at least 2 volts out of FWR in order to light the LED so you should have no problem driving a low current Joule thief circuit.
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Old 04-21-2012, 01:48 AM
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Originally Posted by xee2 View Post
Congratulations. Thanks for the report and photo. Is your only antenna the short wire on top of the primary coil (or are you connecting to an external antenna wire in addition to the fireplace ground)? Please post a link to the page where you got the EPD info.

http://www.energeticforum.com/179223-post956.html

First four equations are the most important as far as I can tell. (wire length, turn length, coil diameter, coil hight) Primary width is 18% of coil diameter but I cant find the post. It's somewhere on the "Peter what happened to Eric" thread, search the T-Rex posts. If you can figure out how to incorporate the other items into your build without loosing the first 4 the the better according to EPD. Not having the correct size tube, I used 14 gauge as recommended by Eric. Coax is also recommended by Eric but I felt this was a compromise to another extream, so I went with the 14 gauge solid.

There are a few excell calculators on the yahoo group. I wrote the TRTcalc3.xls. These will do the math for you. If you are not a member PM me and I will send it to you. We cant post excel files here. Now that I think about it I should update that spreadsheet again.

As you know from you exciter experience there are variables in designing a coil. This way, adds a few more variables in the mix. This coil is based on a few ideas EPD described in his writings and old school HAM techniques, brought back to life by EPD. Spaced windings, active copper volume match
and Erics formule were a few of my considerations.

The extra coil is still a bit of a mystery. I am not using one. I made one but I have not figured out what it is supposed to do, and how it does it. Erics dimensions were tenetive(as he described) at best and not all the equations make sense to me at least. I am almost ready to revisit that.

ALSO I got an LED AV plug to glow just as well as the FWBR. One wire to the top of the secondary and another lead off the negative of the LED laying on the tile.

The fireplace is metal and sticks out of the roof so its like an antenna. but its grounded so I dont know what to call it.


EDIT:!!!
OK fireplace not needed!!!

I connected to the mains ground and adjusted the CAN, now the LED is on, bottom of the secondary is mains ground and soda can antenna.
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Old 04-21-2012, 04:10 AM
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I don't think this is off topic but this link is to a instruct-able on how to make a Tesla lightning detector. It looks really interesting this guy has videos of his device detecting light, and sound waves as well as EM waves. I've been wanting to build one for a long time but never got around to it ;p

Make the Tesla Spiral Antennas
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:43 AM
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@ jake

Thanks for the info. I find lighting an LED with just a few feet of wire for an antenna to be impressive. What kink of results did EPD get with his?
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Old 04-21-2012, 10:10 PM
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This is the theory for the crystal set initative AND an appropriate experiment for validation. To my knowledge it has not been accomplished. It is based on the following post.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post173955
Quote:
Originally Posted by T-rex View Post

Crystal Sets Gone Wild

For the diagram shown the coil dimensions are missing, number of turns, etc. A good ground is essential for these kinds of devices. 16 Ground rods in a 10 to 20 foot radius circle, connected to a single ground rod at the center(17th rod), this connection being 10 gauge wire. Dry sand or rock will not ground, so this requires 80, each 14 gauge wires in a 30 foot diameter circle in a star radial configuration, to a center terminal. Without these groundings a Tesla Transformer cannot properly operate, but some "HI-Z" sets may.

The objective here is to scale the "Crystal Set", a step at a time, into a Tesla Transformer for the reception of medium wave band, 300 - 3000 kilocycle A.M. broadcasts. No license is required for this and the broadcast station provides the power.

And this objective cooperates with the primary objective. That is; Who will be the first ham to disprove Einstein's theory? An International contest, but who will sponsor it, Iran maybe?

We have the good fortune in the "Crystal Set Initiative" that, in theory at least, a quarter wave A.M. broadcast tower, and its 120 quarter wave ground radials, must emit a pair of waves as shown by Tesla in his basic diagrams.



Hence it can be seen that a pair of waves are engendered by this transmission system. (Tower and Star Radials). One wave, Hertzian, is the over ground wave, the other wave, Telluric, is the under ground wave. These two waves arrive at the point of reception in their own distinct time frames, giving rise to a difference in phase. Hence, multiple rings of interference patterns are produced. Since the Hertzian portion, over ground, time frame is based upon the velocity of light, then the Telluric portion, under ground, time frame gives the Telluric velocity. Two crystal sets, one over ground, one under ground, and a basic oscilloscope , that simple. I have done this at Landers.

Concluding, a Tesla Magnification Transformer, properly proportioned can, in theory, actually draw power from a local 50 kW station. Several hundred watts of power reception is likely. This would prove Tesla once and for all. No antenna, just a good ground, and a nice and bright 100 watt light bulb.

This would overturn physics more than any billion dollar C.E.R.N. project. A ham radio operator overturns Einstein for 100 bucks. What a concept.
Read,
Tesla, "The True Wireless"
Tesla, "System of Concatenated Tuned Circuits"
Dollard, "System for the Transmission and Reception of Telluric Electric Waves"
A.R.R.L. "Radio Amatuers Handbook". Chapter "H.F. Transmitters, & Tank Circuits"
73 DE N6 KPH
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Some more build info form the "Peter where's Eric" thread that was locked.

I wonder if Aaron could sticky it to the begining of the EPD thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T-rex View Post
Tesla Type Crystal Radio

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The design of the Tesla Transformer starts with the secondary resonant coil. In its resonant mode it is a quadrapolar resonator. Two constants exist in the construction of this solenoidal resonator, one is that the height to length ratio must be 20%, the other is that the side by side spacing of the cylindrical conductor turns is 62% the diameter of the cylindrical conductor. The optimum number of turns is 20 on the secondary, with 2 on the primary. This gives the physical size of the coil for a given frequency. Increasing the number of turns reduces the size of the secondary coil in proportion to the increase in turns. Accordingly the conductor diameter also decreases as the copper is spread out over more windings. The ratio of secondary turns to primary turns must equal a constraint of 10 to 1. For a given number of turns the operating frequency becomes the sole independent variable in coil design.

The primary coil is the same diameter as the secondary coil. The ratio of conductor width to coil diameter is 18%. The sheet conductor is closely spiralled into two turns, for a secondary of twenty turns. For a conductor thickness as given by the maximum thickness vs frequency the volume of the primary metal must equal the volume of the secondary metal, based upon equal weights for primary and secondary metals. Brass can be 1.7 times thicker than copper, and bronze can be 2.8 times thicker than copper, for a given maximum thickness and frequency.

The primary condenser should be made of the same amount of metal as the primary coil. Their weights should be about the same. The connecting leads must be short and the same width as the primary conductor. Large, multiplate air condensers are good, so are metal sheets and glass.

The secondary capacitance is best a copper tubing ring around the outside of the H end of the coil. This ring must be open in one spot along its loop so as not to be a shorted turn. The end of the secondary wire connects to this capacity ring. Beer cans make the best elevated capacitors.

The finished transformer must operate on a directly connected ground plane. A large plywood table with aluminum foil glued on to it, this covered with a plastic or glass sheet is the minimum required ground plane. Obviously the aluminum plane must be solidly earthed with special attention to minimizing ground lead inductance. In order to light a lamp a more broadcast station style of ground plane is required, but for testing purposes the metallized plywood "ten by" sheet is just fine. Good luck and good crystal set DX ing.
There is no step by step guide to tuning this. Following basic DX, crystal set rules do not necessary apply IMHO.

All the theory is in here: [http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post15858]

I do not want to talk about theory of operation here. Just observations and diffferences between this design and a normal crystal set design. For an unbiased Theory pull out the T-rex posts from the above thread and read. Not that there is not other great information in that thread but it can make you mind wander. Read the other posts after you determine if you understand Eric or not. I found page 26 a great place to start. Lots of good T-rex posts before that but they are a bit advanced and its hard to apply to those lessons before you understand the basics and that is what this is about.

Learning the basics.

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Old 04-21-2012, 10:17 PM
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@ jake

Thanks for the info. I find lighting an LED with just a few feet of wire for an antenna to be impressive. What kink of results did EPD get with his?
What powers the wireless AV plug?
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Old 04-21-2012, 11:46 PM
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RF Probe

For those who may not have RF test gear, I found a simple RF circuit you can make to read RF voltages on a DMM.

N5ESE's Classic RF Probe

I made one this afternoon took about 30mins, used an aluminum cigar tube for the RF shielded body.
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:33 AM
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What powers the wireless AV plug?
The AV plug appears to not have a return, but it actually does. The return path is through capacitive coupling. There is always some amount of capacitive coupling between any two conductors. Touching one side of the LED will increase the capacitance since that allows the high frequency current to flow over the surface of your body and increases the area of the capacitive plate. Normally this requires higher voltage than you have in order to work wirelessly so I am surprised that you can get it to work without a return wire with the voltage you have. The circuit is just a diode rectifier feeding an LED. The diodes prevent the reverse voltage across the LED from getting high enough to burn it out (LEDs can only have about 10 volts of reverse voltage before they will be destroyed).

see >>> one wire circuit - YouTube
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Old 04-22-2012, 01:43 AM
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jake jake is offline
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Awesome

Quote:
Originally Posted by madhatter View Post
For those who may not have RF test gear, I found a simple RF circuit you can make to read RF voltages on a DMM.

N5ESE's Classic RF Probe

I made one this afternoon took about 30mins, used an aluminum cigar tube for the RF shielded body.
That is perfect! But wait lets make it better.

I don't care about accuracy. I want maximum sensitivity and stability so I can tell where the peak is. Becides ditching the the resistor should I consider another sized cap? 0.01uF seems a little large for use on a crystal set



@ all,

When using 0.5v PP on the function generator(lowest setting) across 1 turn of the primary I can use an AV plug to trace the secondary and "see" the high and low points along the entire secondary. Middle 5 turns have close to nothing. All the umph is at the top and bottom of the secondary.

Now to get that umph into the extra coil through the cap without loosing anything.
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Old 04-22-2012, 02:37 AM
xee2 xee2 is offline
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@ jake

I calculated the field strength voltage 5 miles away from a 1,000 watt transmitter to be 0.03 volts per meter. This is a rough calculation but gives approximate value to be expected. You are getting much more out. I am impressed with your design. I worked several years as an antenna engineer developing very advanced antenna designs, so it takes a bit to impress me.

For a 10,000 watt transmitter this increases to about 0.10 volts per meter.

After I did the calculations the hard way, I found an online calculator that gives about the same answers:

Volt per meter and power density calculator


EDIT: A tuned antenna will suck up the RF energy much like an electronic vacuum cleaner, so I would expect your antenna to produce more than the ambient volts. It is actually possible to measure the lack of signal behind a tuned antenna which shows it has absorbed energy from an area much larger than itself.
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Last edited by xee2; 04-22-2012 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:19 AM
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jake jake is offline
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xee2 you rock

The funny thing is: The coil responds best when excited at ~2200kHz. So I may be getting signal from another station but I cant hear it because 1620 is so loud.
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:31 AM
xee2 xee2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake View Post
I consider another sized cap? 0.01uF seems a little large for use on a crystal set
What cap? There is no reason to go over 100 pf for coupling at 1 MHz. The smaller the coupling cap is the higher the resonator Q will be.
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:34 AM
xee2 xee2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake View Post
xee2 you rock

The funny thing is: The coil responds best when excited at ~2200kHz. So I may be getting signal from another station but I cant hear it because 1620 is so loud.
No. If you are hearing 1620 then that is where the power is coming from. You will hear the station delivering the most power.
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:09 AM
Loadstone Loadstone is offline
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Hi Jake....nice work.
Thought i'd post my setup here for you.
I'm getting 25+ volts from my circuit and i can run a wall clock from it very well.
I made my own 2 gang vari cap from some bits of aluminium glued to a wooden dowel.
I'm using about 30 feet of data cable as antenna but anything works...even just an iron wire.... My antenna is about 12 to 15 feet in the air.
My coil is tuned to 774 khz but i also get 1550 khz as well.
The 774 station is about 20 kilometers away from me, and i think it is a 50,000 w transmitter....i think?
Here is a link showing my setup running a clock.
clock radio - YouTube

I wind the primary with taps, then i just wind the secondary straight over the primary.
I'd like to see someone else try this setup and see how it performs.
Cheers.
Scotty.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg best crystal radio.jpg (739.5 KB, 34 views)
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Old 04-22-2012, 04:59 AM
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jake jake is offline
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Standing/Stationary "wave"

@ all: Does this make sense?? Is this normal antenna theory stuff?

I am using bare 14gauge wire. So I can tap it at any point, and I do. There is a standing/stationary wave along the entire coil when excited at ~2200kHz. Max voltage is on the soda can, and again max at the bottom of the secondary by the grounding at ~2200kHz. With an area in the center of tht gives no readings. In this case I am feeding it with a function generator.

When attached to my magic "fireplace gouund " I get hightest signal close to the top of the secondary but not on the can and the voltage does not go up at the bottom.

This tells me I need more interwinding capacitance or a capacitor across or the split ring the secondary think
I think it's time for me to learn YouTube. I'm a video posting virgin. But the standing wave visual is cool.

And finally, my detector is an AV plug with germanium diodes. Crystal ear phone is attached across the LED and I can hear the station and the light glows when I tap points. This is the on the unpowered setup. Better yet I can hear the station on the "AV LED-head piece" 1" away from the secondary without touching, and it gets louder the closer you get.

Which means I am radiating. Which is bad.



So is this normal stuff?
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Old 04-22-2012, 05:37 AM
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jake jake is offline
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@ loadstone

NICE!

Wish I had seen that earlier. Tried earlier on to get a joule thief to work but failed. Then I got good light from the coil directly and dropped that idea. I'm borrowing a function generator so I'm spending my time working with that. I'll eventually get a thief to steal radiowaves.

Did you ever work with 1N34 germanium diodes? How do thay compare to the ones in the video?
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