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N O G
02-28-2011, 12:27 PM
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FRC
02-28-2011, 12:55 PM
Instead of the Tip35c is it okay to use a 2N3055 or MJL21194 ?

FRC

ewizard
02-28-2011, 05:06 PM
Can you elaborate on what it does? High efficiency charger or OU charger?

N O G
03-01-2011, 01:35 AM
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N O G
03-01-2011, 01:59 AM
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N O G
03-01-2011, 02:08 AM
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N O G
03-05-2011, 08:25 AM
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N O G
03-24-2011, 12:53 AM
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SkyWatcher
03-24-2011, 01:39 AM
Hi NOG, thanks for sharing your design.

How does it work, why is the motor speed control needed.

It looks as though the circuit has the standard Bedini bifilar self oscillator, with a third wire that's connected to the motor controller which pulses in the khz range i assume.
I have an RC electric plane motor controller i could use for this.
Does the other motor controller pulsing signal somehow add to the efficiency or performance of the charger.
Thanks for any information clarifying your circuit, thanks.
peace love light
Tyson:sun:

ewizard
03-24-2011, 01:41 AM
Nice work and thanks for sharing. It does take time to get things tweaked to maximum efficiency. :thumbsup:

N O G
03-24-2011, 04:06 AM
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Stephen Brown
03-24-2011, 05:22 AM
Hi there Skywatcher
The reason i chose this motor control is because its impedance driven with a reverse blocking diode(not all motor controls have this set up) .This separates it from the rest of the circuits and causes no interference to the coil while running.Basicly the motor control puts a very small pulse through the coil at a curtain frequency and activates the trigger coil into a forced resonate state (dual oscillator)The motor control is set to minimum output and uses practically nothing to do its job.The motor controls chip is set to 2kh but i add a pot and a different cap so its adjustable.The amazing part is that the motor control can be set to 2kh and you can still adjust the main circuit to lower frequencies than 2kh with out any interference , the little pulse will just be all over the waveform instead of just before it fires ,this is where i useally adjust it to so there both at the same frequency.You can trigger a basic one circuit system as well for starters to learn from. cheers Jason[/QUOTE]

Jason,
Thanks for posting your circuit. Very intriguing. I have a solid-state set up running as we speak. It is based on {Lee (smw1998a)} OTG Pulse Generator.
(See that thread for his very good How-To pdf). It is an SSG based system. I am trying to understand the similarities and differences between the two systems of triggering. Lee has a pulse generator triggering the base with short pulses to the transistor, which can be adjusted to the resonant frequency of an existing SSG rotor. He figures out the sweet spot of the coil using the base resistor and rotor speed then sets the pulses/trigger speed to match that frequency eg. 190 Hz or 2280 rpm.
What are the important differences in these two systems, from your perspective?
You say your motor controller (KC5225) causes no interference to the coil. In other words - Does not control the speed of oscillation but allows it (the coil) to find it's natural sweet spot? Do I understand that correctly? Wow, 2 KHz, very fast.
You also said that you change capacitors depending on the batteries you are charging. How do you figure that out?
Also, additional branch circuits, #2, #3, #4 etc. would each have a transistor and be connected using Red on top and Black on bottom configuration, according to your schematic? I will definitely replicate.
I have some more questions but let's take them a few at a time.
Two years of observation. This may take a bit of explaining. Please bare with me.
Thank you for your time and effort.
Stephen

Stephen Brown
03-24-2011, 05:31 AM
Jason,
Could you post a link to the KC5225 motor speed controller on Mouser or another electronics outlet. I couldn't find it?
Thanks
Stephen

Stephen Brown
03-24-2011, 05:52 AM
I should have looked a little harder. Sorry.
Stephen

Browser Warning (http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Motor-Speed-Control-Module-Part-1/A_1522/article.html)

10A 12VDC Motor Speed Controller Kit - Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KC5225)

N O G
03-24-2011, 07:14 AM
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Stephen Brown
03-25-2011, 04:31 AM
Thanks Jason,
I think after re-reading your last couple of posts, the two triggering system are different. The one I referenced does, as you say, solely rely on the out-put of the pulser circuit, to trigger the transistors.
With this system there is no fast way to determine the sweet spot running speed (resonance) of a particular setup that I know of (I'm sure there is another way) or that Lee showed, other than having a rotor over the coil running and adjusted to the sweet spot and then directly adjusting the pot on the pulser to that particular speed.

Basically the motor control puts a very small pulse through the coil at a curtain frequency and activates the trigger coil into a forced resonate state (dual oscillator)

If this triggering system works as you say, it is a better system, in that the coil can find it's own natural impedance matching frequency.

I once experienced this way of triggering when I moved my Renaissance RC-2A12-3 12V Battery Charger cables too close to my hooked up SSG trigger coil.
The slow pulsing of the charger output cables activated the trigger of the coil to begin pulsing without the rotor moving. Now that I recall, your O-Scope shot above looked very similar to the output signal I was seeing on my scope.

You have taken this concept several steps further and discovered that using a much higher frequency (above the resonant frequency speed) the coils oscillation speed will only rise to the coils natural resonant frequency.
Bravo!:thumbsup:

Do you also see this natural speed as the matching of the impedances of the coil, the supply power and the battery(s) you are trying to charge? Is this assumption going to far? Have you used different sized charge batteries and seen a different coil speed for those batteries?
Also I assume this system will work using multiple coils as long as they are the same size and configuration. Have you tried this?

Obviously, not all of the above factor have to be perfectly matched to charge a battery. But, I am of the opinion that if the Bedini technology can be made to work well, without all the expense of hardware and rotors, it will be MUCH easier for people to build themselves.

Thanks in advance for answering my questions.
Sincerely
Stephen

N O G
03-28-2011, 04:03 AM
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Stephen Brown
03-28-2011, 03:40 PM
I've ordered the speed control (Jaycar) 2 to 4 weeks. Will build and test upon arrival. I'm sure I will understand the circuit better after testing and will have some more intelligent questions about battery size and charge speed tuning then.
Thanks
Stephen

Hi there Stephen
The speed of the circuit is manually tuned by you and the impedance matching is done by how many wires you use, length,size etc (basic explanation).You determine where you want it to resonate by your tuning spots (base resistance/motor control)and the rest of the design determines how efficient it is.Different 12v charge battery sizes dosen't really effect the way the circuit behaves to a curtain extent but if you put a 50ah battery on this 20 circuit design set to charge a 26ah battery you will find you have to use a higher setting to charge the 50ah battery ,than you will find the circuit's to small and you are pushing it to hard and out of its efficient range so there is a charger size to battery size ratio (i will explain all these ratio's later).Multiple coils can be used but it becomes more complex and i don't want to go down that road for now, its best to keep it all on one coil to keep some capacitance in the coil (simple for now). cheers Jason

N O G
03-29-2011, 02:43 AM
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Stephen Brown
03-29-2011, 06:51 PM
Hi there Stephen
2 to 4 weeks well thats gota suck.... yes there is alot to this than meets the eye but its quiet fun to play with once together and working. DON'T EVER disconnect the charge battery while charging with this setup cause it will destroy the transistors , you probly know this . I have made a voltage switch that can be added to turn the circuit off if the battery is disconnected but left it out of this circuit to keep it simple.If you can try to get a pot equal to or higher than 20 kohm and some mtk caps(very small) 100v rating - 68n,100n ,220n, 330n,470n,680n would be handy for later if you have to wait for parts .These will help later with tuning (its for motor control) Are you going to to build a 20 transistor setup. Cheers Jason

Jason,
I think the long ship time is because the controller is coming from AU. I couldn't find it in the states. I know all too well about letting the smoke out of the hardware (charge battery STAYS connected).
I would love to add a voltage switch to a number of my setups. When you get a chance, let me take a look.
I have several of the capacitors you reference and some 20K pots i'll begin getting my box together. I saw a great video on resonant tuning of coils. In the 2nd video he uses a boxful of different sized small caps to finely tune the coils to their resonant frequencies.

YouTube - Coil Resonance Tutorial 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJQvqTpBdiQ)

I have built a 20 pole monopole and am planning on building at least a 20 pole SS unit.
I'll take it one step (coil) at a time though. The above was a 5 coil 20 pole.
Your suggestion is to wind a single 20 (22 windings) pole coil? I like the 22 #22 wires at 22 meters. Was this based on a specific observation? If you have refined your thinking further as far as size, let me know what the next enlargement would be. I might take a crack at it. I might also try 2 coils of the same size to see if multiple coils are possible. What do you think?
Thanks
Stephen

N O G
03-30-2011, 07:52 AM
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Stephen Brown
04-02-2011, 02:09 AM
Hi there Stephen
I didnt realize they only sell these controllers over here in Australia . The original circuit was released in the Silicon chip mag -june 1997.Good to here you've built a few circuits ,5 coil- 20 branch circuits , that sounds like a good device to play with , ive built a few myself (heaps of fun hey), posted one similar on Bedini sg thread a while back but i carn't even remember where it is . When it comes to the coils it can become complex in certain ways (i could talk for days just on coil design). The one coil setup here builds capacitance in the coil making it more efficient .Ive made this simple for now but can be made as large single coils , multi coils and many other type systems as ive played with all of this and it works but is complex.The wire size ,length etc was chosen for a certain reason ,frequency/amp rate/how good the wires pack together.If you want to go bigger with THIS SETUP ONLY , keep to this BASIC RULE for every 5 wires you add you add another rod of ferrite to the core . example = if you wound 32 wires on one coil for a 30 transistor setup you would need 6 rods of ferrite . cheers Jason

Jason,
Thanks for the feedback. I will start work on the coil and the rest of the materials.
In the mean time could you direct me to the sources that gave you the most insight on "coil resonance" and it's relationship to radiant charging. I'm familiar with the internal resonant frequency of a coil and how that is figured out. I've gone through gotoluc"s thread on the subject. Great stuff.
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/3351-resonance-effects-everyone-share.html
You mentioned building capacitance within the coil. Maybe I could start there in trying to gain a better understanding of the subject. Let me know what helped you to see the radiance?
Thanks
Stephen

N O G
04-03-2011, 04:10 AM
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N O G
04-06-2011, 06:27 AM
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Stephen Brown
04-08-2011, 05:18 AM
Hi Jason,
I received the speed controller today. I'll start assembling soon. Only took 10 days from AU. Not bad.
Also, what size are the core, ferrite rods? They look to be around 135 mm X 8 mm. Can you give me a more exact measurement?
Still assembling parts.
What are the specs on the 7 circuit coil? You said the wires were twisted (litzed). That would be 9 wires X #22 wire, how long? How many twists per inch? Same size ferrite cores?
Thanks
Stephen

N O G
04-08-2011, 08:01 AM
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Stephen Brown
04-08-2011, 04:11 PM
Jason
Thanks for ferrite rod info and the good visuals on creating the 9 wire coil. It helps me if I can see it in my mind.
Did you create the 20 wire coil the same way (without the litzing)?
Walk-Off 22 wires between two posts and then start winding the coil by hand?
That seems like a good trick. I know when I do smaller multi-strand coils with dozens or hundreds of turns, I like to use my coil winding machine. It has a handle and I can feed the winds onto the coil just right. I have a wide coil holder that can take up to 6 separate coils feeding 1 wire each onto the larger coil.
But 22 wires onto the coil at once. I've only wound a 6 wire (6-filer) coil to date.
Could you go into a little detail and explain a bit about your winding technique?
Thanks
Stephen

N O G
04-09-2011, 02:45 AM
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N O G
04-15-2011, 08:57 AM
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Stephen Brown
04-15-2011, 05:09 PM
To Stephen,
Just wondering how you are going on your build.Im building another larger one at the moment to do tests . Give me a few days and ill post it here so you can have a look.cheers Jason

Hi Jason,
I've got the speed control built and am starting to assemble and become familiar with the rest of the circuit.
A couple of questions.
I see from your pictures of the speed controller that you left the provided potentiometer in the circuit and put a 1K pot in the trigger winding before the base. Where do you put the 10K pot and cap on/in the PCB for tuning?
I'm sure i'll have more ? as we go forward.
I look forward to posts on your larger build.
Thanks
Stephen

N O G
04-16-2011, 03:10 AM
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Stephen Brown
04-16-2011, 04:15 AM
Thanks Jason,
I'll make that modification, finish up the circuit and post some pics after I get it running.
Stephen

Stephen Brown
04-19-2011, 04:35 AM
Hi Jason,
First off let me say there are several thing about this build that are "not to spec". So any observations I make below, need to be understood in that context. I just had to try with what I had.
The coil has only 4 litzed conductors of #20 wire at somewhere between 100 and 125 feet. I'm using 2 MJL21194s and a 1/2 watt 1k bundle of resistors.
I'm using a 35 volt cap and an iron core. The magnet on top is just so I can hear the speed at which the is coil oscillating. I will try winding a coil to spec as soon as it stops raining. I'm having trouble getting any ferrite rods in this country. I'll have to send away to Eastern Europe for these.

So, with all that in mind let me tell you what i've observed and what I still don't understand.
First off, this method of triggering puts out the prettiest "h wave" i've experienced on a solid state machine. It look almost like a magnetically triggered "h wave". It shoots up a nice negative spike and seems to work within a wide range of input voltages, as you stated.
I added the 10k pot and the two clip leads. The first thing I noticed was that the oscillation wouldn't start until I "touched" the pot on the motor control. I was acting as the ground. So I grounded the pot. After that the oscillations started with the flip of a switch as long as I was within a certain tolerance setting.
The charge battery charged nice and smooth, quickly, but the 35 volt cap kept from spiking the battery too hard. I've found that if you charge too hard (say a 90 volt cap) you can kill a small battery.
As you can see from the oscilloscope 500 hz at 8 volts and down to about 150 hz at 24 volts was about the range. Is this how it works for you?

So here's the question. How do you tune for resonance. Tuning between the 2 pots and the cap is not something I was able to intuitively do.
The base pot would cut the oscillations at the low end and at the high end. The motor controller pot seemed to be able to speed the circuit as I put larger caps in place. However, in some settings the cap didn't make any difference. In or out the circuit still oscillated. Tell me how you understand the pots and cap to work together.
The oscillations seem to have more to do with the transistors and their base resistance than the motor control. This may just be my ignorance or it maybe the way I've put the build together.
Let me know how you go about this tuning business. Or if I you think this setup is even tunable and I need to get it more to spec.
Whatever your answer I have had fun putting it together and look forward to more adventures.
Thanks!
Stephen

N O G
04-19-2011, 11:53 AM
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Stephen Brown
04-20-2011, 11:08 PM
The circuit is ALWAYS in resonance when running and the base resistances adjusts the frequency of that resonance.

Try and keep your tuning pot on the base inbetween the resistor bunch and the branch resistors other wize you might burn it out . The resistor bunch takes the first hit of current to the base.

Having a magnet on the core will interfere with its opperation , use a small AM radio if you need a reference.


Jason,
Thanks for the great feedback. I will be exploring another coil that more closely matches your specs as soon it stops raining long enough so that I can get outside and pull some wire to wind it.

Your first quote is an insight to me.
If the circuit is running, it is within it's resonant range of operation.
Through observation I can see that range is fairly small. The circuit will definitely stop functioning if the resistor tolerances are out of the coils range of operation. When my coil is nearing "out of range" it starts to squeal and the oscillations get very jittery, confirming your statement above.
Thanks for clearing that up.

I will definitely move the base pot beyond the resistor bundle.

Again, thanks for all your help.
Keep me updated.
I'll let you know as soon as I get the next build up and running.
Stephen

N O G
04-27-2011, 02:25 PM
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Stephen Brown
04-27-2011, 07:46 PM
Hi Jason,
Are those the TIP 35c transistors?
Please let us know after you've put it through it's paces.
I'm assuming the size is starting to approach an "off grid" level of charging capability.
Are all the parameters the same as far as wire length for the coil wind?
Thanks for the post.
Sincerely
Stephen

N O G
05-01-2011, 08:27 AM
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shingot
05-03-2011, 04:34 AM
Hi Jason,
what a hairy setup.LOL
Your wires are not twisted, are they?

ashtweth
05-03-2011, 06:58 AM
Hi there everyone,
Here's the latest charger ive built , haven't got all the parts i need yet but its running at the moment. I need to do some testing to see what its capable of. cheers Jason

love ya J , looking forward to meeting soon
:cheers:

N O G
05-04-2011, 03:09 AM
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N O G
05-04-2011, 03:25 AM
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shingot
05-09-2011, 06:46 AM
do you think its fine to use your circuit on an air-cored coil?

N O G
05-09-2011, 12:21 PM
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nafanja
05-09-2011, 10:26 PM
Do you use CAP pulser in your system?

If youe what the CAP do you use , the Voltage for pulsation and the time for discharge?

N O G
05-10-2011, 05:42 AM
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nafanja
05-10-2011, 07:35 PM
Do your systemcharge batery near 65 Ah without the cap pulser?

I have a problemes with the charge when working with SSG and MOSFET flyback pulser. Do you have ability to charge wothout caps?

What is the curent at the transistors. I am new woth this chargers, but I have thinking that one transistor is 100 ma, isn't it (2N3055) and 20 transistors is 2 Amps, isn't it?

N O G
05-11-2011, 03:33 AM
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nafanja
05-15-2011, 01:19 PM
Tell me please why the CAP to transform the negative energy to positive energy?

I see that the plus of battery and cap is connect and charge by spikes (negative energy). As far as I understand - the cap is capacitate the negative energy and make current spike that he (cap) to spike the negative energy by more mass that may give the coil...

N O G
05-18-2011, 02:18 AM
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nafanja
05-18-2011, 08:24 PM
As I am understand - Bedini sas that the Radiant Energy is a GAS.

Tesla Coil or Coil Spark may to get (from air or around) the Positive Charge (Radiant Energy) than thinner than Electron (-) or Necleus (+).

As you see at the ENERGY of the VACUUM the ball at the sky may to condencing this Gas. It's those energy which give mooving of hard electron. Radiant Energy or this GAS may easy moove through the Neclear Area and this Gas moving not make a hot efect - it's cold electricity. Electron flow is make the Hot effect.

The electron is the magnet charge and resonate with a magnet force.
The mooving simply generator is the electron flow by the magnet force and it's need a big force for spining the rotor. Electron is a hard charging part, Gas or Cold Electricity is the light electricity and may get more simply (not need a bif nagnet force - just the Voltage or Static charge/Gas.

As i am understand, the puting the Light Gas by easy way may go by 2 ways - straghtly froim the coils or via the CAPs.
I don't see the information from Bedini (please show me) that the Cap Pulser is not flow of Radiant Charge. Cap may concentrate the Gas (positive electrical force) and transorming to the (-) negative electrical charge moving ( electron flow or ions flow) at the battery.

Please guve me know is I think uncorectly.

shingot
05-20-2011, 06:06 AM
nafanja,

according to bedini, when you use capacitor to collect the radiant spike or negative energy you are converting it to positive energy. In other words the capacitor converts the negative energy into positive energy - this means you are charging with positive energy. but when you direct the radiant to the battery itself (without using capacitor) then you are using negative energy to charge the battery.

when you have a small machine (SSG or SG -bifilar or tri-filar) you may need to use capacitor to collect the radiant spike first before dumping it to the battery.

Maybe the capacitor does not have the chemical properties of a battery to store negative energy.

just my thought.:D

N O G
07-09-2011, 03:31 AM
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ashtweth
07-11-2011, 02:08 AM
Hi J, thanks for the update and thorough report, yes we have some parts on the way and will wait till you finish some experiments and do your write up my friend:)

N O G
07-12-2011, 12:00 AM
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Stephen Brown
07-12-2011, 12:25 AM
@ Stephen - how ya going on your experiments .
Cheers Jason

Dear Jason,
I know just how you feel.
Summer has taken me over with projects.
No time to experiment. Wish I was a rich guy and had time and money to try all the experiments i'd like too.
But alas, duty calls.
Will get back on the horse in mid August, hopefully.
Thanks for the update. I watch the forum as much as I can.
Keep up the good work Jason, and all you true believers.
Sincerely,
Stephen

N O G
07-12-2011, 04:19 AM
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N O G
07-18-2011, 05:40 AM
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N O G
07-29-2011, 10:30 AM
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