Relay Charger Circuit HELP

[Civic Protection]

Hello, I am new here at EF, and I hope that you might help me with an experiment I am trying to run.

Last year I saw Imhotep's video on Youtube for the auto relay charger device.
YouTube - Free Energy How-to Single Relay Radiant Charger

So I bought the parts and I successfully replicated it. I tried charging up a UPS sealed lead-acid battery. I got some radiant action! Satisfied with the positive results;
I started planning a bigger better design.

Here is a guide I followed later on:
http://tinyurl.com/39jtczx

Last week, I went to a salvage store, and obtained some interesting relay type mechanisms. some old some new and some weird. One is a brand new
"Mars 91321 switch". I paid about $3 for it. Here is a pic:
1 NEW MARS 685744-91321 DEFINITE PURPOSE CONTACTOR NIB on eBay!

Now: in the Imhotep diagram he used a normally closed relay using the
27a contact. This switch doesn't have such a contact. To me it resembles (electronically)
http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/4-...tive-relay.jpg

I would like to use this switch because it is VERY robust, it switches at 12v like a jackhammer even though it is designed for 24v. It is designed to switch 240-600 volts at 30 amps. The coil also has a lot of turns which is appropriate for this application.

Anybody have any ideas as to wire this relay/switch to self oscillate? It does have two poles. Do I have to solder on a new wire or just connect it into the circuit a different way?

[gyula]

Hello,

You probably have the following choices

1) perhaps you can "trim" the NO (normally open) contacts of your contactor as per Page 10 in the pdf file you referred to:
http://www.panaceauniversity.org/Tes...Oscillator.pdf
to get a NC (normally closed) contact from it, though it is not much likely the layout permits that

2) You obtain a hefty, at least 1A rated NC reed switch, and position it to near one of the magnetic poles of the contractor core to make it switch. You have to experiment with the distance and positioning, of course, after you have built the circuit

3) You build the quiet type version from Page 11 where the relay coil is included in the collector of a switching transistor, no need for any NC or NO contacts

4) you may wish to build the circuit shown in Page 51, where you would need to wind at least 80-100 turns onto the top of the main coil, to get the feedback coil needed for the oscillator. Of course you have to find the correct phasing to get oscillations by changing the ends of the new coil, in case it does not want to oscillate. To wind the 80-100 turns is not an easy task of course, it also depends on how wide the the gap is between the top layer main coil and the mechanical structures. Use enamelled copper wire with any size between 0.1mm to 0.3mm, gap size and your patience permitting...

rgds, Gyula

[sucahyo]

Anybody have any ideas as to wire this relay/switch to self oscillate? It does have two poles. Do I have to solder on a new wire or just connect it into the circuit a different way?

Without normally connected terminal you need outside driver for the relay. My two way of self oscillating require normally connected terminal.





You may have to add normally connected terminal yourself. pinch a needle or something.

[sampojo]

Fwbr

Hi, Built one of these from imoteps videos and some other guys work too. Some confusing connections worked thru, and it worked the first time I put power to it. I've charged everything except a Li with it, doing car batteries, nicads, power tools. power seems to be improving in my drill when It was barely usable for one job before. On third recharge on a set of alkalines. hope to never have to buy a car or lawnmower battery again. I notice recharging normal alkaline batteries too much usually causes them to leak. Wonder if dropping it has something to do with it?

I just blew my diode, crossing the connections on my lawnmwer battery. So back to the work bench to fix. But I am wondering if a FWBR can be used to get more power, could use it for the car batteries. I assume it would have to set up the circuit between the +/- out put. Has anyone tried this? I suspect that there would be some voltage bounce on the negative side of the collapsing coil field.

I have been using it so much running it for 48hrs on a car battery etc, that the relay goes bad and I just clean the points to bring it back.

Tried to add additional coils in parallel to the primary to add power, but couldn't tell on the oscope bc I needed a 100x probe. Seemed something was going on bc my points crapped out a lot faster, too fast to be usable.