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Aaron
05-20-2008, 01:15 AM
Hi Rickoff,

The long cylinder rotor was just another test to compare different features. Out of that, the 6 coiler and the 12 coiler, the 12 coiler is the optimum one to make.

I was at John's shop quite a bit off and on when he was making those. It was when Peter was working with John several years back.

Have you seen John's posts where he discusses what degree he wants the triggering to happen? I think just about all the specs on magnet spacing, etc... can be extrapolated from it.

You will get more output with more coils and multiwinds. 2 coils will not necessarily be twice as much as 1 coil, but could be more.

Aaron



"
In the above post, and based upon 3/4" magnet width, the 2.4" spacing between magnets of the 6 coil radial arrangement would be equal to a spacing of 3.2 times the magnet width, which falls at the low end of the optimal spacing range. The 3.96" spacing of the 4 radial coil (x3) unit increases the spacing to about 5.3 times the magnet width, which is at the high end of the optimal spacing range, from what I understand. It seems reasonable to assume that John would not have gone ahead with the increased spacing design for the 12 coil unit unless he felt certain that the increased spacing would result in greater efficiency. Do you know if the results actually proved the assumption as correct? I don't know if this is the right place to be discussing the subject at hand, and you are more than welcome to move (or suggest a move) of this thread to a different location within the forums. Thanks

Thanks for the nice welcome, Aaron. Your posts have been of special interest to me, as I find that you are very knowledgeable on the subject of Bedini motors. I was just looking at some great construction photos at New Page 2 (http://www.icehouse.net/john34/kron.html)
and a few questions come to mind that perhaps you can shed some light upon. The last photo in this series shows a completed 6 coil unit, which I assume was the forerunner test design for the 12 coil unit shown at the left side of the workbench in photo #2. I am wondering why it was decided to reduce the number of coils, radially, from 6 to 4 on the 12 coil model. Was that done to increase the circumferal spacing of the magnets from 2.4" to 3.96", which would appear to be in the optimal range? (I am assuming the magnets are 3/4" width on both models, and that the the number of coils matches the number of magnet positions in the rotor of both models.)
"

rickoff
05-20-2008, 05:41 AM
Hi Aaron,

Thanks for your reply. I assumed that the 12 coil unit was the optimal one, but just wasn't sure why he went to 4 coils radially rather than 6, as in the forerunner. Can you provide a link to the posts by John, regarding the triggering, that you are referring to? Thanks for steering me in the right direction. I can see, in the photos, that each coil has four windings to make up the 48 charging circuits.

Thanks for your assistance, Rickoff

elias
05-20-2008, 05:50 AM
Aaron,

Have you shared the special super-pole configuration for SSG with John Bedini? I want to build a new SSG so I would like to know If you still recommend using the special super-pole configuration?
Thanks!

Elias

Aaron
05-20-2008, 09:49 PM
Hi Rickoff,

It was in the yahoo groups. The Bedini SG one that Sterling shut down recently. Look in the last 1-2 months of messages posted. You can search by John Bedini to see which ones he posted himself.

It is all about the timing.

The group was continued in this new group:
Monopolemotor : MonopoleMotor (http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Monopolemotor/)

Aaron
05-20-2008, 09:58 PM
Hi Elias,

I'm not sure if John knows or not. I have to go out to his shop to talk with him on some other things and will ask him.

Here is what I know:

1. Kevin achieved incredible charging in his batteries. For every amphour expended from the input battery, he was able to draw 2 amp hours out of the battery being charged. It was a real charge, BK batt capacity analyzers, etc... were used and it was not only there, it powered loads.

2. The other superpole configuration was used PLUS an earth rod from ground through diode to + of battery being charged...around the earth rod was a bunch of potash added + a LOT of conditioning charging, draining...non stop DAILY for MONTHS. There was virtually no letup on the charge/discharge cycles.

I do not know 100% how the extra came about. I understand it can be done with proper charging/discharging over and over non-stop. But how much was from the magnet configuration and how much from the earth rod? I don't know.

It is possible with the regular Bedini superpole configuration + the earth rod setup that maybe there would be 3-4 times as much coming out.

The scalar potentials from the magnets are not work in themselves but when mixing several of these potentials together, they form real current in the charging batteries and that real current is work that doesn't come from the circuit.

rickoff
05-22-2008, 09:04 PM
--------------------------------------
update 5/22/08

Thanks for your help at steering me in the right direction, Aaron. I did find information about timing at the original SG forum site, and also found a nice schematic showing a 12-coil circuit using a single trigger ( see http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/sMI1SJ_4kK-P0YFboRuLbBlmEe8njQp5kDHedxNAp0i4OjrCQTBQlLIEDDR1o Yv1a5Th7SAPd8rZH9yxU5Xs2spZoOJQ0v0rUVXY/Glenn/Mono_Pole%20Multi-Coil%20Machine.jpg ), so most of my questions are now answered. Thanks again, Rickoff :)

Aaron
05-22-2008, 10:08 PM
You're welcome Rickoff! Do you have another link for that pic? The one you posted doesn't come up for me.

rickoff
05-23-2008, 06:44 AM
Hi Aaron,

The link I provided does work - I just tried it - but you must be signed in to Yahoo groups first. Go to Yahoo! Groups - Join or create groups, clubs, forums & communities (http://groups.yahoo.com/) and make sure you're signed in, then click the link I posted. It looks a bit blurry on my 19" diagonal widescreen monitor, and it won't print well either, so I copied it and loaded it into Adobe Photoshop and resized it for a landscape 11.5" page in jpg format, and I can now view or print out the full diagram much cleaner. Here's an attachment of same: 520

To save the jpg image to your computer in best quality, right-click the thumbnail image and choose "Save Target As."

Rickoff :)

rickoff
05-30-2008, 08:27 PM
After recently joining the energetic forums, I was reading through the "Bedini Schoolgirl" thread (http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/365-bedini-schoolgirl.html ) and found a post by Kevin (dated 8-12-2007) in which he stated that he would be building an eight coil machine with 32 circuits to power his home. This greatly interested me, as energy independence is my goal. I wrote to Kevin, and later had a phone conversation with him which was very interesting and informative. Kevin said that his concept was to use a 3 foot length of 6 inch diameter PVC pipe, with endcaps, for the rotor, and that the rotor would be mounted on a 1/2" diameter through-shaft with bearings in the endcaps. He had already purchased the above named parts some months ago, but hadn't had time to work out the actual construction methods he would employ. In thinking about the construction mechanics, I began wondering if a through-shaft would be suitable for a 36" length cylinder. My thought was that the shaft would probably tend to wobble slightly at its center, causing vibrations. Also, I wondered if a steel through-shaft would interact with the rotor magnets in either a positive or detrimental way. Aaron - if you are reading this perhaps you could share your thoughts in that regard, and also anything you might remember about Kevin's "tube" concept. I hope that Kevin will also jump in here with his thoughts. Anyways, if it would be detrimental to use a common steel shaft, then certainly a non-magnetic stainless steel shaft could be used. In beginning a design concept for my own cylindrical rotor, I decided that I would use a 1" diameter x 6" long stainless keyed shaft at each end of the rotor. Each shaft would be attached to the rotor's end caps using a flanged shaft collar, and would be supported by two flanged bearings mounted on upright supports made from polycarbonate cutting board material. Incidentally, I found a great deal on the flanged bearings at this website: 1" Mounted Bearing UCF205-16 + Square Flanged Cast Housing:Ball Bearings:VXB (http://www.vxb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=bearings&Product_Code=Kit7358&Category_Code=1inch) As you can see, the bearings are heavy duty and the 4 bolt flange comes with a grease fitting. A bearing insert with shaft-locking set screws is a nice feature for shaft adjustments and added stability. And all for just $9.95!! :thumbsup: I found some quality stainless shafting at mcmaster.com, and I decided on the 1" shaft because I want to mount a hefty flywheel beween the bearings on at least one end of the unit. I made a preliminary drawing of the attachment concept and posted it at the following site: Bedini Tube style SSG - Windows Live SkyDrive (http://cid-a4a1d6e4bb17a7e3.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Public/Bedini%20Tube%20style%20SSG) Please note that this is just a preliminary concept sketch made freehand in MS Paint, and nothing is actually drawn to scale. I also did not attempt to show the fastening details, but all will be accomplished using 1/4 - 20 stainless steel capscrews. I also posted a picture, at the above link, of an object that I may use for my rotor. It is a rigid hexagonally shaped tube with one stationary endcap, and another endcap that is spiral threaded for easy removal. It measures 39" overall length, and 6 3/4" in diameter from flat #1 to flat #5 of the octagon. I found 3 of these at the local recycling center, and it instantly popped into my head that they might make great rotors, so I took them home - for free! They are very tough. I tried standing on the center of one and it had no give whatsoever. They are constructed so as to be filled with about 75 pounds of sand, and placed in the bed of a pickup truck for improved traction during winter driving - a much better idea than the plastic bags most folks have been using, including myself. I don't know who manufactures these, as there are no identifiable markings on them. I like the idea of the flat octagonal surfaces, as it simplifies magnet mounting and will also reduce air drag caused by magnet protrusion along the perimeter when compared to mounting on a round tube. My first step will be to determine if the octagonal rotor will rotate precisely enough so that runout will not be a problem. If it checks out okay, I will attach it to my shaft assemblies and mount all of that on a firm baseboard made of 12" x 48" melamine shelving stock. My plan would be to build a 12 coil, 48 circuit Bedini machine having 3 sets of 4-coils radially placed. This configuration would be similar to John Bedini's 12 coil machine, as can be seen in a video clip at the following site: YouTube - 20 Mono-Pole Bedini Motor / Pulse Engine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kXSOLcQlOew) The major difference is that he used a precision machined aluminum rotor, which would be nice to have, but that would prove very costly. My concept, expanding on Kevin's idea, is to construct an affordable and easily duplicated machine. As I said earlier in this post, I hope that Aaron and Kevin will add their thoughts to this concept thread, and of course everyone is welcome to ask questions or make suggestions. Anyone interested?

Best regards to all, Rickoff :)

theremart
05-30-2008, 09:08 PM
I also have been torn between building a big machine and just building a heafty solid state device. I have bought some 300 V transtistors and I was considering going 48V to my bedini. It seems so much energy is lost turning the wheel that if we used a solid state device we would be much further ahead in the game.

I think I will check out solid state because it seems one could get a more effective system using it.

I am very open to suggestions.

Mart

Sephiroth
05-31-2008, 12:19 AM
mart,

I think you're right... alot of the energy is "used" by the rotor, though I believe the transfer of electrical to mechanical in this system will yeild the highest COP when the charging effect and mechanical work are taken into account...
However, I believe you are right again, that you will achieve a higher charging COP with a solid state device and I look forward to any results you care to share! :thumbsup:

ren
05-31-2008, 04:08 AM
Mart,

If the intent is to solely charge large batteries then a solidstate device is probabaly preferable, not to mention easier to store/move. If you intend to pursue mechanical power then perhaps you should look further. I happen to think that power is not lost through the rotor, limited perhaps, but not dissapated or spent. The rotor is designed to captialise on the electromagnetic occurence that occurs, not to mention time the device as well.

I think you may be surprised what a bit of gearing and a heavy flywheel running at 48volt, 3000rpm can do:eek: :thumbsup:

rickoff
05-31-2008, 05:35 AM
Thanks for your comments, folks. Mart, I am sure you are right about a solid state device, such as a variation on the "Tesla Switch," being most efficient for charging batteries, but I do have my reasons for wanting to build this mechanical device. As Seph points out, this 12 coil/48 ciruit Bedini machine will have a better overall COP than the solid state device when the mechanical energy is factored in. My plan is to utilize that rotational energy by using a magnetic coupling hub placed at the end of the shaft, as in my drawing. Once the machine is up to running speed, I can then slide into place (on a track) a small hydrosonic pump to be rotated by the magnetic coupling. The hydrosonic pump will maintain the water inside a 50 gallon insulated storage tank at 180 degrees, and a loop will be taken from the tank to circulate hot water through the hot water heating system's boiler heat exchanger. Thus, whenever either of my heating system's two thermostats calls for heat, the hot water coursing through the heat exchanger will instantly be pumped where needed by one of two zone valves, and water beiing pumped out of the heat exchanger will instantly be replaced with 180 degree water. That, of course, means that I will no longer have to burn any more fuel oil to heat my home or my domestic hot water (except perhaps during sub-zero temperature extremes). And at times when hot water production is not essential, I can tap the rotational output of my machine to drive workshop equipment, a water pump, an alternator, or whatever. There is no need to consider the rotational mechanical energy of the machine as "lost energy" unless you have no plan for utilizing it, right? I believe that the flywheel, as shown in my drawing, is an important addition if one wants to make best use of mechanical energy. Similar to the idea utilized by James Watson in his Bedini machine. It will tend to keep the machine rotating at a fairly constant speed while providing torque to smooth and balance the work load. The flywheel is also a plus if you want to use switching to pulse charges back into the supply battery bank, which I plan to do. I have a very positive outlook on this project, as you can probably surmise. Even though you may be going in a different direction, you might just peek in here every now and then to see how things are moving along. Right now I am waiting for my shafts and bearings to arrive, but will be posting some pictures as construction begins. Best wishes to you in your pursuits of free energy.

Rickoff :)

theremart
05-31-2008, 10:49 AM
I have chased the mechanical energy and I have found it is a VERY high hill to climb for someone who does not have a machine shop. Has anyone here achieved COP >1? I think Kevin has, and Aaron has.

I have tried the magnet configuration as shown "superpole" and have failed to get better results with it. ( Probably my lack of knowledge of how to do it properly.) I also did not receive better results with a ground to the charging battery. In some of the Bedini circuits I have found the ground at a different place than the charging batter ( on Erins page ) this puzzled me.

My thoughts go as follows.... Use a battery swapper with solid state device to charge the batteries.

I do look with great interest to those who have broken this barrier. I have ordered Bedini's book, and the video on magnets. I do hope to improve my methods.

The method you are suggesting sounds to me like you guys are on the right track, you are using heavy machined bearings, I checked into these for wind mills as they have the same problems as we do. Some of the bearings they use are 1. hubs from pull behind trailers. 2. bearings from computer chairs. 3. bearings from washing machines. All of these are very heavy duty and seem like an option. The bearing you listed looks very very nice, if your system works with this I would consider upgrading to ceramic bearings. I have found that duralube is an AWESOME lubricant, which you might consider to impove the bearings as they are.

If the COP is easily found in the batteries, my thought is to stop there. Use the solid state charger to charge batteries, then milk the batteries for energy, then repeat. The trouble is, I don't know what waveform is optimal, I don't know what circuit to consider for high voltages, ( I may start with a simple solid state design till I get the hang of it, then move up ) it seems to me that I could use multiple solid state devices small ones to do the job a large one and would be safer.

I am curious how did you come up with the number of 180 deg for your water?


Also mentioned was a tesla coil... on the solid state, what is the most effective solid state device out there that you guys have tested? Thanks!

theremart
05-31-2008, 05:07 PM
Mart,

If the intent is to solely charge large batteries then a solidstate device is probabaly preferable, not to mention easier to store/move. If you intend to pursue mechanical power then perhaps you should look further. I happen to think that power is not lost through the rotor, limited perhaps, but not dissapated or spent. The rotor is designed to captialise on the electromagnetic occurence that occurs, not to mention time the device as well.

I think you may be surprised what a bit of gearing and a heavy flywheel running at 48volt, 3000rpm can do:eek: :thumbsup:

Hey, I am open to suggestions, have you achieved this?

I am open to models that I can reproduce :) that have a proven cop >1.

Aaron
05-31-2008, 07:17 PM
With the ground rod, the one that we have put to the + on the charging battery isn't really a "ground" since it has a diode so the positive potential moves from the rod to the charging battery.

On some of John's diagrams, he shows a real earth ground...neg of input battery to a literal earth ground.

Bodkins
06-01-2008, 12:06 AM
With the ground rod, the one that we have put to the + on the charging battery isn't really a "ground" since it has a diode so the positive potential moves from the rod to the charging battery.

On some of John's diagrams, he shows a real earth ground...neg of input battery to a literal earth ground.

Very intertesting Aaron,
can i use the water pipes to my house at a ground and could i also use this as a positive potential rod?
Am i going down the wrong road but if some how you can make the positive potential oscillate would this increase the potential?
Been working on a fan bedini motor and im i crazy but i can feel it hear it wahtever when its oscillating i can really tune in to it.is this just or anyone else do this?
so many queastion so little time.

theremart
06-01-2008, 01:51 AM
With the ground rod, the one that we have put to the + on the charging battery isn't really a "ground" since it has a diode so the positive potential moves from the rod to the charging battery.

On some of John's diagrams, he shows a real earth ground...neg of input battery to a literal earth ground.

Good point Aaron yours is a different method.

I understand people have different results with this at different locations with the ground and diode...

gmeat
06-01-2008, 02:37 AM
Hi Guys,


You guys have got to try putting a small universal motor on the back end of an SSG.I tried this with a hoover vacuum motor and talk about ZOOM had to be many thousand rpms pulling just under 1.2 amps & my cap reads a high of 16 volts at the back end of SSG:D .

P.S. I found out this setup doesnt work without my bifilar coil on the trigger side of the circuit.
-Gary

Aaron
06-01-2008, 07:34 AM
You could use water pipes probably as the regular ground.

I use galvanized steel rod for the ground rod negative for grounding the SG circuit to the earth...(no diode at all, just like John's schematics). Then use copper for the rod with the diode. Now you have an earth battery. You can use plates or rods or any other method. If multi-cell, use the neg as the earth ground negative and use the positive terminal of the earth battery as the connection with diode to charging battery +. This is the first time I ever described this out in the open.

rickoff
06-02-2008, 08:21 AM
Hi Mart,

Regarding your question as to why I chose 180 degrees as the temperature for water storage in the 50 gallon tank, and for circulating through my boiler's heat exchanger - the answer is really quite simple. My boiler's control unit is set for a burner cutoff when the boiler's water temperature reaches 180 F degrees. As the burner shuts off, the circulator pump begins pumping the hot water through each of the zone valves that have a thermostat calling for heat. When the temperature of the water in the boiler reaches 155 degrees, the circulator pump shuts off and the oil burner kicks in to regenerate hot water for another cycle. So you see, if my hydrosonic pump maintains the storage water at 180 degrees then my oil burner will never run. Even if domestic hot water use (for showering, laundry, dishwasher) drops the supply temperature by 24 degrees, the burner will not start. In actual practice, I may heat the storage water to as much as 200 degrees and/or may use a 100 gallon storage tank. That all depends upon the output I am actually able to realize from the hydrosonic pump.

As to your questions about earth rods, Aaron is right on the money with what he is saying and has a lot of knowledge and experience with this. In simple terms, Nature has given us a huge capacitor with unlimited potential. The ionospere is the positive "plate" of the capacitor, the earth is the negative plate, and our atmosphere is the electric field, or storage area of the capacitor's charge. Benjamin Franklin understood this electric field after his 1752 kite experiments, some 67 years before Nikola Tesla was born. And Tesla was fully aware of the earth/atmosphere/ionosphere capacitive relationship. As Aaron can tell you, a 12 volt automobile battery can be fully charged within 48 hours simply by connecting the battery between a suitable earth ground point and a 200 foot atmosheric run of common insulated TV antenna wire. How's that for a low cost battery charger? So you see, all the things we are talking about can be summed together to give us a super-efficient system that can fulfill all our energy requirements. If you want to add in a solid state battery charger, or go 100% solid state, there is plenty of great information given in the energetic forum threads for doing just that. Also check out http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter5.pdf and start reading at the bottom of page 5. Several Tesla Switch circuits and modifications are shown and explained. And let's not forget the 1984 Ronald Brandt/John Bedini "cigar box" Tesla Switch device, which was probably the first successful demonstration of the Tesla Switch concept.

I think that the most important factor in determining where one should start, in choosing the device or devices that are most logical for our particular energy system, is the end results that we want to achieve. And whatever the decision, this is a great place to find people who have the knowledge, experience, and willingness to help us realize our goals. We all need to share what we know, and what we learn, with all who earnestly seek this knowledge. Times are tough, and getting worse. I just hope that I can make a positive contribution here in return for the kind and generous help that has been given to me. Thank you so much.

Rickoff :thanks:

Chip Shorter
06-02-2008, 12:19 PM
A couple of things about earth rods/grounds. They work for both solid state machines and mechanical. I'm not really sure but in radio there is an effect when you tune one radio then tune another the signal gets stronger for both radios. I use the radio analogy alot since these devices to me seem to be nothing more than recievers of cosmic energy. If you think about Moray and Coler as well as Tesla's method of conversion you see that reception is common.
I'm working on a solid state version based on the Tesla switch, Scalar wave battery charger. Frequency is everything at this point. The faster I go the better the effect. I will post my schematics if anyone is interested.

rickoff
06-02-2008, 05:57 PM
Yes, by all means post your schematics and functional details. I have seen Bedini's circuit diagrams for his Scalar Wave Battery charger and Scalar Wave Controller, and they look very good. I am guessing that is what you started from. It would be very interesting, though, to see the actual components, layout, and operational notes for your particular setup. I for one would love to add this type of circuit to my overall system, and use a Lindemann Rotary Attraction Motor as the load placed across it. Thanks so much for offering your contribution to the effort. :thumbsup:

rickoff
06-02-2008, 06:22 PM
Funny that you should mention the vacuum cleaner motor. I just replaced the motor last week in an older Eureka vacuum that I use at my cottage, because the bearings were shot. A new motor cost me $65 at the local vac shop, which is much less than the cost of a new vacuum cleaner. I tested the motor before assembling it in the Eureka vac, and as you say - it really revs up! It made me think that those high revs could certainly prove useful when combined with an SSG to perhaps drive a tesla turbine, or some other high speed device. What are your thoughts as to possible uses that you intend to explore? Could you show us a picture, or diagram, of the actual hookup you used with your SSG? That would be great. :thumbsup:

Thanks for your suggestion, Rickoff :)

Aaron
06-02-2008, 09:15 PM
there is an effect when you tune one radio then tune another the signal gets stronger for both radios.

This is a very profound concept. Please elaborate if you don't mind.

theremart
06-03-2008, 01:43 AM
Hi Mart,

Regarding your question as to why I chose 180 degrees as the temperature for water storage in the 50 gallon tank, and for circulating through my boiler's heat exchanger - the answer is really quite simple. My boiler's control unit is set for a burner cutoff when the boiler's water temperature reaches 180 F degrees. As the burner shuts off, the circulator pump begins pumping the hot water through each of the zone valves that have a thermostat calling for heat. When the temperature of the water in the boiler reaches 155 degrees, the circulator pump shuts off and the oil burner kicks in to regenerate hot water for another cycle. So you see, if my hydrosonic pump maintains the storage water at 180 degrees then my oil burner will never run. Even if domestic hot water use (for showering, laundry, dishwasher) drops the supply temperature by 24 degrees, the burner will not start. In actual practice, I may heat the storage water to as much as 200 degrees and/or may use a 100 gallon storage tank. That all depends upon the output I am actually able to realize from the hydrosonic pump.

As to your questions about earth rods, Aaron is right on the money with what he is saying and has a lot of knowledge and experience with this. In simple terms, Nature has given us a huge capacitor with unlimited potential. The ionospere is the positive "plate" of the capacitor, the earth is the negative plate, and our atmosphere is the electric field, or storage area of the capacitor's charge. Benjamin Franklin understood this electric field after his 1752 kite experiments, some 67 years before Nikola Tesla was born. And Tesla was fully aware of the earth/atmosphere/ionosphere capacitive relationship. As Aaron can tell you, a 12 volt automobile battery can be fully charged within 48 hours simply by connecting the battery between a suitable earth ground point and a 200 foot atmosheric run of common insulated TV antenna wire. How's that for a low cost battery charger? So you see, all the things we are talking about can be summed together to give us a super-efficient system that can fulfill all our energy requirements. If you want to add in a solid state battery charger, or go 100% solid state, there is plenty of great information given in the energetic forum threads for doing just that. Also check out http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter5.pdf and start reading at the bottom of page 5. Several Tesla Switch circuits and modifications are shown and explained. And let's not forget the 1984 Ronald Brandt/John Bedini "cigar box" Tesla Switch device, which was probably the first successful demonstration of the Tesla Switch concept.

I think that the most important factor in determining where one should start, in choosing the device or devices that are most logical for our particular energy system, is the end results that we want to achieve. And whatever the decision, this is a great place to find people who have the knowledge, experience, and willingness to help us realize our goals. We all need to share what we know, and what we learn, with all who earnestly seek this knowledge. Times are tough, and getting worse. I just hope that I can make a positive contribution here in return for the kind and generous help that has been given to me. Thank you so much.

Rickoff :thanks:

It sounds like you have done your homework!!

I have looked at the page you referenced, was the first time I saw the "Tesla switch". impressive stuff there.

I have started this journey first buy making a pulse motor, then when I did a google search I found that Bedini had created one, that has got me hooked.

I have a biography of Benjamin Franklin, and I see that Bedini mentions his works as well.

You say that in 48 hours a battery can be charged with said device, have you done this yourself?

Today I hooked up a battery to a copper wire 3 foot long into the ground to the positive with a diode, the other terminal to my water pipes. The voltage went up from 12.62 to 12.66 then down to 12.63. ( about 5 hours ) I pulled it off after that, but I was impressed that it changed that much.

Chip Shorter
06-03-2008, 01:44 AM
This is a very profound concept. Please elaborate if you don't mind.

I think its called near field coupling. Essentially the two receivers act like a loosely coupled transformer and cancel out non obligitory waves. Weird stuff. I found this when I was doing research on Lloyd Crump's US patent #2,813,242 and some crystal plans I came across for these Free Power Radios that were driving transistors and charging caps etc. I found it to be different than regenerative or the local oscillator receivers used in supersonic heterodyne radios. Here is a link Nikola Tesla Page, Tesla's power receiver (http://amasci.com/tesla/tesceive.html) some really cool stuff in and about it.

Given what we know about disruptive discharging and radiant energy and the means on which to achieve the effect (the SSG leading to one of many ways) it could be behind the technology of T.H. Moray and Hans Coler. Essentially these guys built receivers capable of producing some real power. Could they have used this effect to make some sort of oscillator that not only rang itself into oscillation but kept sucking energy through the antenna/ground using similar principles? This is the stuff that keeps me awake at night.

BTW I will post the super charger schematics on a new thread soon.

rickoff
06-03-2008, 04:35 AM
It sounds like you have done your homework!!

I have looked at the page you referenced, was the first time I saw the "Tesla switch". impressive stuff there.

I have started this journey first buy making a pulse motor, then when I did a google search I found that Bedini had created one, that has got me hooked.

I have a biography of Benjamin Franklin, and I see that Bedini mentions his works as well.

You say that in 48 hours a battery can be charged with said device, have you done this yourself?

Today I hooked up a battery to a copper wire 3 foot long into the ground to the positive with a diode, the other terminal to my water pipes. The voltage went up from 12.62 to 12.66 then down to 12.63. ( about 5 hours ) I pulled it off after that, but I was impressed that it changed that much.

Hi Mart, I'm glad that you enjoyed my previously posted reply to you. As to your question, the answer is yes. It actually happened by accident, about 40 years ago, and it might interest you to know the story. My grandfather had a cottage on a lake in eastern Maine (which I still have today) and it is at the bottom of a large hill, many miles from any towns. My younger brother and I used to enjoy listening to the radio at night, long after my parents and grandparents had gone to sleep. We had a small cabin (without electricity), about 100 feet from the cottage, where we listened to a car radio that we hooked up to a car battery and some speakers. We ran wires from the battery to the radio using some lengths that we cut from a big spool of wire that my grandfather had laying around. Reception was very poor without an antenna, so I took the rest of the spooled wire and hooked one end to the antenna connection of the radio. Then I ran the aerial by tossing the spool over several tree branches in a direct line up the hill to gain some height. The length of wire was at least 200 feet, and I'd guess even more. The reception was great! When my grandfather saw the setup, he was impressed at my ingenuity, but said that we should ground the battery negative, and the metal radio case, to an actual ground driven rod to help avoid lightning damage. He gave me an iron rod, some heavy gauge wire, and a grounding clamp, and showed me what to do. We ended up falling asleep with the radio turned down low, and the battery drained overnight. My grandfather said we would be going to his house in town for a couple of days, and that he had a charger that we could bring out to the lake when we returned. He suggested that I should disconnect the positive wire, and the aerial wire, from the radio while we were gone, just as an additional safety precaution in case there was a storm, so I disconnected the wires. My brother had gone trout fishing in the brook alongside the cottage that morning, and didn't know about me disconnecting the wires. He went out to the cabin, before we left to go to town, and turned the radio on. Nothing happened. He saw that there was no wire hooked to the positive post of the battery, so grabbed what he thought was the right wire and attached it. Still nothing, of course, so he switched the radio off and shut the cabin door. Two days later we returned to the lake, and my grandfather was preparing to hook up the battery trickle charger with an extension cord from the cottage. When he saw that the battery positive was still connected, he remarked that I should have disconnected it before we left for town. I said that I had, and then my brother admitted that he had rehooked it. I looked at the wire, and quickly realized he had actually attached the aerial wire to the battery's positive terminal. I took the aerial wire off, connected it to the radio, and reconnected the proper wire to the battery. My grandfather hooked up the charger, which had a charge indicator needle built in, and the needle quickly rose into the green "full charge" area. He said, "What the heck is going on with this?," and tapped the meter with his finger, thinking the dial had stuck in the green position. It stayed there. He disconnected the charger and the needle fell to zero. He connected and disconnected the charger several more times with the same results, then told me to try the radio. I turned the radio on, and it worked fine. There had been a thunderstorm the day before we returned, but our neighbor said it never came within 5 miles of the lake. My gandfather theorized that perhaps enough static electricity had entered the aerial wire to charge the battery, and of course that was a pretty good guess. He said we were lucky that the battery did not explode, and rigged up a circuit box with a throw switch so that we could quickly and properly disconnect the circuit if we were leaving or heard a storm approaching. We just chalked up the experience as a miracle, and never attempted to recreate what had happened. I had actually forgotten about it until just recently, after speaking on the phone with Kevin. He had mentioned charging batteries by the same method, and I later realized that this is exactly what we had unintentionally done so many years ago by accident! Kevin also talked about how to find the best ground voltages by inserting metal rods in the ground and using a voltmeter with some long extended probe wires to measure the voltage across the rods. He said that you then move one of the rods a few feet (after marking its current location) and take another measurement. If the voltage decreases, you put the rod back where it was and then try moving the other rod and remeasuring the voltage. After a while, you finally find the best positions in your yard for your earth battery. Thanks to Kevin for that tip. :thanks: The only electrical experiment I had ever done before with two metal earth rods was to drive them in, a few feet apart, and then hook some 110 volt household AC to them. Someone had told me that it worked great to drive earthworms to the surface, and it did, although I haven't done this again since being a teenager. Well, I hope I haven't bored you to death with this long-winded story. I just thought it might interest you, but I may be wrong. I've been known to be wrong more than a few times during my life! ;) Let me know if it bored you, and I will delete it - I promise!

Best wishes, Rickoff :)

theremart
06-03-2008, 11:17 PM
Thank you for your experiences. That was cool!

I tried tonight charging the battery with out a diode, seemed to do nothing but drain the battery.

I then got the voltage meter out, and I found that between the copper rod outside to my water pipes measured .43 V

Tried other locations outside, but did not see greater.

Mart

rickoff
06-04-2008, 05:27 PM
Hi Mart,

Glad you enjoyed my battery charging story. I'm not exactly sure why it worked so well, except that there was a thunderstorm nearby and certainly a lot of static electricity in the atmosphere. The antenna/ground charging circuits that others have used successfully all appear to utilize a capacitor, coil, and a spark gapping device (such as a spark plug) somewhere in the circuit. I don't remember where I downloaded this from, and it may well have been in one of the forum threads here, but here's a diagram of such a circuit:
battery charged by 200 ft antenna wire.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive (http://cid-a4a1d6e4bb17a7e3.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/Bedini%20Tube%20style%20SSG/battery%20charged%20by%20200%20ft%20antenna%20wire .jpg)
Here is another such circuit design with explanations:
OS:Radiant Energy Antenna System - PESWiki (http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Radiant_Energy_Antenna_System)
And here is still another:
Emergency Power -- Survival Style (http://www.eham.net/articles/9272)
Note that both links have some very useful information, and both look at this type of charging in relation to survival energy. Everything needed could no doubt be found at a recycling center, junkyard, or automobile graveyard, although it certainly would be a good idea to start by locating and procuring the best possible parts for this, and at least having them ready for use when the need arises. Think of it as an emergency energy toolkit, at the least, and even better - start using the idea now to improve COP for whatever energy system you are using or designing. An important warning when using such a circuit: The voltage gain can be as much as 200 volts for each meter above ground of antenna height, thus an aerial raised to an appreciable height on a tower structure could easily develop deadly voltages. One should be very, VERY careful to provide and use as many safety precautions and safety devices as needed to protect all persons or animals who might unwittingly expose themselves to the danger.

Best regards, Rickoff :)

elcman
06-04-2008, 07:10 PM
The only electrical experiment I had ever done before with two metal earth rods was to drive them in, a few feet apart, and then hook some 110 volt household AC to them. Someone had told me that it worked great to drive earthworms to the surface, and it did, although I haven't done this again since being a teenager.

I have a pair of those. They were created by my sister's husband (or someone he knew) he left them when I bought my house from them. I've used them to drive up earthworms... :D

Sitting in soft, wet soil while those things are humming along will give you quite the goose. Heh.

This aerial idea has me thinking... I've heard plenty of interesting results when floating a weather balloon that has a line to the ground talking about static buildup when the thing comes out of the clouds. It makes a lot of sense, though, after what you just said.

Would this concept also fall in line with this ... other anecdotal situation? I'm not sure the exact reproduction, but there was a story of a man who drove a rod into the ground beneath some high-power transmission lines. They were the rod was perpendicular to the lines and could harvest energy off of them.

Someone probably knows this reference and can give me details. (I operate strictly off of hear-say. It makes life more interesting... :D)

Similar to the electrical storm, could this also be the same principle. The high-power lines are providing a charge "lower" in the atmosphere that is picked up by this grounding rod and it allows the user to harvest energy off of that high-powered "ambient" energy?

Just curious.

rickoff
06-05-2008, 09:15 AM
Hi Elcman,

I would think that it would not be that difficult to tap some ground level free energy from overhead power transmission lines, as you say. Such "high tension" lines normally operate at a voltage boost of more than 110 kilovolts, and at frequencies of less than 30 cycles per second. The electromagnetic fields around these transmission lines definitely reach to ground level, and as you know can be very disruptive to radio broadcasts when you pass under them in your car (especially AM band). The fields are also known to be very disruptive to a vehicle running from a "Joe Cell." So the idea of power tapping that disruptive electromagnetic radiation at ground level would seem to be a relatively easy task. Two major problems exist with that approach, however. First, the power company owns a wide path of land below the lines, so you would need to have their permission to attempt this. Secondly, even if they gave you permission (which they most assuredly would not), setting up and maintaining such a tap would place you at serious health risk from the ELF (Extremely Low Frequency) electromagnetic fields radiating from the power lines. You are much farther ahead to think about tapping into the far safer free energy forms that exist all around us in Nature. Sorry if that wasn't the answer you were hoping for, but I'm glad to see people reading these threads, thinking about what is said, and then getting involved and participating by submitting questions or related observations. Keep in mind, though, that the title of this thread is "Bedini SSG Machines," and that there may be a better place within the forums to post unrelated questions. We may seem to be drifting off course in our discussion of "earth batteries," and "antenna battery charging," but these can be adaped to work in harmony with an SSG machine and increase its Coefficient of Production (COP), and really that is the name of the game here. Thanks for your effort, and best wishes to you, Rickoff :)

elcman
06-05-2008, 04:44 PM
We may seem to be drifting off course in our discussion of "earth batteries," and "antenna battery charging," but these can be adaped to work in harmony with an SSG machine and increase its Coefficient of Production (COP), and really that is the name of the game here. Thanks for your effort, and best wishes to you, Rickoff :)

Hehe, gotcha.

At least the whole branching discussion explained some anomalies for me. I haven't attempted the Bendini in the traditional sense, so far. I need to get more supplies before I'm really going to be a contender in this thread. :)

rickoff
06-06-2008, 12:11 AM
Hi Elcman,

I just noticed today a video posted by "Myth Busters" regarding free energy from power transmission lines. See it at: Howstuffworks Videos "MythBusters: Free Energy" (http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery/6535-mythbusters-free-energy-video.htm) They failed to get any appreciable results with their experiment, but of course that is usually the case with them because they are either a disinformation service or are pitifully incapable of counducting such experiments. Still, I thought you might be interested since you had just mentioned this scenario.

Rickoff :)

Aaron
06-06-2008, 12:50 AM
they are either a disinformation service or are pitifully incapable of counducting such experiments.

There was a Bedini machine replication attempt by them on one episode. In one part, they had absolutely no magnets. Your above possible suggestion about them is is probably fairly accurate. Doing what they did is literally as ridiculous as trying to push a car with no wheels. To not do something like the magnet situation with their Bedini attempt really is ridiculous and I find it almost impossible to believe that it was by accident.

rickoff
06-06-2008, 06:54 AM
Aaron, I agree with you 100%. I am aware of the "Myth Busters" so-called Bedini experiment, and it was totally ridiculous - just as you say. With all the freely available information that one can find on the Internet about proper construction of a simple Bedini machine, how could an engineer from MIT not be able to get it right? It was clearly a blatant attempt to discredit John Bedini, as well as being a slam against any other free energy devices. It's sad to think that probably 99% or more of the people who watch Myth Buster garbage actually believe that there are no viable alternative energy devices. This latest video about power transmission lines is right up there with the rest of their garbage. All they did was to set up a large coil of wire under the lines with an attached voltmeter. No ground, ferrous core, or charging circuit was used, so how would they expect to produce any useable energy? Just more garbage and misinformation. The video actually begins with the statement, "Free energy - across the board - busted!" I'm a Bedini technology believer, and I'd love to see the Discovery Channel air the "Energy From The Vacuum" videos as an answer to Myth Busters (they could title the show as "Myth Busters Busted"), but of course that will probably never happen. So I guess I'll just have to be content with building and utilizing my Bedini machine replications and sharing my experiences with other avid Bedini aficionados. There is, however, a video response to Myth Busters by John Bedini which is excellent. It shows the original Myth Buster footage of their experiment, and then shows John standing in front of his 10 coil machine and busting the Myth Busters. Here's the link: YouTube - Bedini Motor Busted?! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3I9RUCrjoQ)

Rickoff ;)

rickoff
06-12-2008, 04:14 AM
Hi folks,

I'm away at my cottage for a few days to do some scraping, painting, and other work. Can't get high speed Internet here at an affordable rate, so I'm using dialup and it seems so slow.... :( Today I replaced the wheels on my dock, using some large metal wheels from an old hayraker machine. I had been using some very heavy cast iron wheels, of a somewhat smaller diameter (about 24 inches) for the past 25 years with no problems. This past winter the water level must have come up quite high, as ice broke the massive spokes on one of my wheels so that the wheel was in 5 pieces! I had the dock pulled in so that the wheels were way above water level before winter, but the lake takes what it wants, and can be very unforgiving! I saved the one cast iron wheel that is still okay, and I'm thinking about using it as a heavy duty flywheel for the motor/generator system that I will build to power my cottage. The electric company charges me a "seasonal rate" here, which is much higher than what the other townfolk are paying, and I even have to pay a monthly charge for the cold months when I don't use the cottage, because that costs less than having the electric disconnected and then reconnected for the summer. Rates are expected to double this year, so I'll be very glad when I am either off the grid or selling excess power back to them. If you can make it, they have to buy it - that's the law here. Another note of interest is that Maine has come up with a plan to fund projects to construct alternative energy machines! It appears that you submit your ideas to an "independent" group that awards funding to the most promising designs, and the the big power companies end up being the major contributors to the funding. I haven't had time to check into the program yet, but there's probably some catch to it - perhaps the state, or the power company then holds the rights to retain and/or display your machine. I'll put up another post when I have the details, in case anyone else is from Maine and interested in the program.

Best regards, Rickoff :)

Sephiroth
06-12-2008, 06:04 AM
I tried to get in touch with that so called MIT expert though had no reply. He doesn't appear to be with MIT anymore though I found him at the California College of Art :confused:

theremart
06-12-2008, 09:46 AM
Ok, I have now three schematics for an earth battery. I purchased a 12 Volt auto coil, and have 150 FT of coax, and another 50 ft shorter, and 100 feet of speaker wire hooked up to the battery. I am using a spark plug...

The capacitor I am using is a motor capacitor.

Questions I have ....

1. Should I measure any voltage from the antenna to ground?

2. Does the UF of the capacitor matter, should I use a different capacitor?

3. Lightning is not my friend.... I guess i should pull the plug on this when storms come by.

Mart

Chip Shorter
06-12-2008, 05:12 PM
Ok, I have now three schematics for an earth battery. I purchased a 12 Volt auto coil, and have 150 FT of coax, and another 50 ft shorter, and 100 feet of speaker wire hooked up to the battery. I am using a spark plug...

The capacitor I am using is a motor capacitor.

Questions I have ....

1. Should I measure any voltage from the antenna to ground?

2. Does the UF of the capacitor matter, should I use a different capacitor?

3. Lightning is not my friend.... I guess i should pull the plug on this when storms come by.

Mart
When I did this experiment last year I noticed some things.
The antenna has to be off the ground and it can't be near any grounded object like a tv antenna. As you approach ground the antenna voltage weakens to 0 volts. The cap should be in the picofarad range at least 100v or more. Definatly remove this thing before a thunderstorm.

I found the voltage stratifies like thermo energy but if you are in a vicinity of ground the voltage will be significantly less. People walking by affected the voltage. If you have no choice but to attach it to metal objects use a string or other non conductor to get the antenna wire as far away from the grounded objects as it is high. Also I would put the spark gap(which is fuctioning as an oscilator in this example) right off the antenna as you dont want to bring the antanna down because the closer to the earth that antenna wire is the lesser the voltage- like putting a voltage divider circuit on it. You will only get potential very little current at all nothing that will measure easily. The Spark Plug is great but you might want to start with a smaller gap by bending the electrode strap withing three sheets of paper thichness of the anode.

theremart
06-12-2008, 06:39 PM
When I did this experiment last year I noticed some things.
The antenna has to be off the ground and it can't be near any grounded object like a tv antenna. As you approach ground the antenna voltage weakens to 0 volts. The cap should be in the picofarad range at least 100v or more. Definatly remove this thing before a thunderstorm.

I found the voltage stratifies like thermo energy but if you are in a vicinity of ground the voltage will be significantly less. People walking by affected the voltage. If you have no choice but to attach it to metal objects use a string or other non conductor to get the antenna wire as far away from the grounded objects as it is high. Also I would put the spark gap(which is fuctioning as an oscilator in this example) right off the antenna as you dont want to bring the antanna down because the closer to the earth that antenna wire is the lesser the voltage- like putting a voltage divider circuit on it. You will only get potential very little current at all nothing that will measure easily. The Spark Plug is great but you might want to start with a smaller gap by bending the electrode strap withing three sheets of paper thichness of the anode.

Thanks for the tips... I will have to pick up a different capacitor. I am using the center of a cable tv cable as pick up so it should not be touching anywhere, and it is about 20Ft in the air. ( I could go higher if I climbed the tree )

But I have 3 designs, the one I currently have has no diodes, I think I will move over to the one that has diodes, and see what that yields.

thanks!
Mart

rickoff
06-13-2008, 04:50 PM
Hi Mart,

Just having a quick lunch break at the cottage, and reading your post. If you look at the last circuit I sent you (the one with the diodes) that gives values for the capacitor and other components. I don't have the link handy here, so maybe you could post that diagram for others who are interested. I would definitely suggest adopting the "overshoot protection" device shown at the bottom of the web page that relates to the Peswiki experiment I referred to in my page 1 post concerning antenna battery charging. The overshoot protection is simple (just a few nuts and bolts, in two parallel boards, that can be adjusted to gaps between them of about .045 inch), and would be parallel to the spark plug input, but branch directly to ground. This protects your components, and battery, from high surges, so that you don't have to fear thunderstorms. Of course you want to have a kill switch device so that the system can be shut down in the event that a lightning storm is passing overhead, but a storm can break quickly and you may not be at home when it does. By all means use every possible safety precaution, including overshoot device, breaker, etc.

Rickoff :)

theremart
06-13-2008, 06:09 PM
I have attached both diagrams

I don't believe I had the first one hooked up correctly and that might be my main problem.

I was wondering if I should be attaching both the shielding of my cable with the center part as well:thinking:

But for now we have had several thunderstorms so... I have unhooked it so I sleep better at night :)

I have been searching for the 20KV .001mfd capacitor this requires, and I have not come up with much. Maybee it is listed in different units?

I have been thinking about taking my bicycle generator and feeding the capactior with the output to see if I can get a spark. Normally I can fill a cap to 32 V with that in a very short time. I might have found a new method of collecting the energy from the SSG........

Again thanks Rick for your insights into this.

Mart

rickoff
06-14-2008, 05:04 PM
Hi Mart,

A .001 microfarad capacitor is the same as a 1 micro micro farad, or 1 picofarad capacitor. If I remember correctly, one of the antenna battery charging article authors said that he used a cap from a discarded TV's horizontal output section.

I would try experimenting with the coax wire 4 ways - center alone, shielding alone, connected together at the spark plug, and connected together at both ends. Then let us know what differences you observed.

Thanks for posting the circuit diagrams, although the second diagram in your post does not open properly - it only shows a spark plug. Perhaps you could try that attachment again. Thanks, Mart.

Rickoff :)

theremart
06-14-2008, 06:20 PM
Ok attached it the picture again. Hope this time it goes. It does not seem to like gif files.


I did not think of connecting the sheilding to the wire at the end.... that is an idea...



mart

rickoff
06-15-2008, 07:37 PM
That looks much better, Mart. Thanks. As can be seen in the 2nd diagram, the capacitor value is 1 picofarad, 20 kilovolt. The spark plug gap is suggested to be 1 to 2 millimeters, which would be .040 to .080 inch. I would start on the low side for the gap, using .025" to .035" which will give you lower voltage spikes, but the spikes will occur more often. See what your results are, then try larger gaps under similar weather conditions to see what the difference is in battery charging rate. It's important to compare under similar weather conditions, because colder days and inclement weather will naturally increase charging activity. Remember too, that whatever your spark plug gap is, the gaps in your overshoot device should be about .010" larger. As I said before, you can make your overshoot safety device form two parallel boards with adjustable bolts to make the gaps. You could also use three more spark plugs instead of the bolts. Here's a diagram of the solid state antenna charging system, with the overshoot protection seen at the left side of the diagram. :) http://www.energeticforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=634&stc=1&d=1213558428

Best regards, Rickoff :)

theremart
06-15-2008, 09:37 PM
That looks much better, Mart. Thanks. As can be seen in the 2nd diagram, the capacitor value is 1 picofarad, 20 kilovolt. The spark plug gap is suggested to be 1 to 2 millimeters, which would be .040 to .080 inch. I would start on the low side for the gap, using .025" to .035" which will give you lower voltage spikes, but the spikes will occur more often. See what your results are, then try larger gaps under similar weather conditions to see what the difference is in battery charging rate. It's important to compare under similar weather conditions, because colder days and inclement weather will naturally increase charging activity. Remember too, that whatever your spark plug gap is, the gaps in your overshoot device should be about .010" larger. As I said before, you can make your overshoot safety device form two parallel boards with adjustable bolts to make the gaps. You could also use three more spark plugs instead of the bolts. Here's a diagram of the solid state antenna charging system, with the overshoot protection seen at the left side of the diagram. :) http://www.energeticforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=634&stc=1&d=1213558428

Best regards, Rickoff :)


----------------------


I am thinking I want to test this by taking one of my pickup coils from the ssg and dumping into the cap to see if I will get spark.

I did see that this would be just the thing for my windmill coils as it should not create a drag on the ssg but would discharge the current when it built up to the gap of the spark plug.

Again thank you for your info.

Mart

vzon17
06-20-2008, 04:27 AM
I found out that the circuit diagram on this link you posted is not correct.

battery charged by 200 ft antenna wire.jpg - Windows Live SkyDrive (http://cid-a4a1d6e4bb17a7e3.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/Bedini%20Tube%20style%20SSG/battery%20charged%20by%20200%20ft%20antenna%20wire .jpg)


you want the input voltage from the spark plug go to the top cap of the ignition coil as one is using the ignition coil as a step down tratnsformer. the way the diagram incorrectly shows is, as hooked up to the side terminal which would boost the voltage up more.

So those two wires need to be swapped in the diagram. If you read the instructions on that third link then it explains it like that.

I wonder how many batteries can be charged like that.

rickoff
06-20-2008, 07:43 AM
You are absolutely correct, and I thank you for pointing that out. I deleted that diagram from my Sky Drive. The other diagram which utilizes an automotive coil, spark plug, and diodes, does show the correct configuration. I don't know why I didn't notice the error before, except that my eyes are definitely not as good as they used to be, and I have a huge "floater" in my left eye that casts a blurry shadow upon whatever I am looking at. I hope that the faulty diagram did not confuse anyone. I did not draw that up, and am not sure where it actually came from.

Thanks again,

Rickoff :)

p.s. - Thoretically you could charge any number of batteries, but the charging would take longer for each battery added. You can offset that by raising and lengthening the antenna wire.

rickoff
06-24-2008, 06:41 AM
I am taking a short break from my Bedini machine project to build and test a couple of hydrosonic water heaters. I need to determine if the plan is sufficient to heat the amount of water required for circulation in my hot water baseboard heated home during the colder months. If I have to build a larger design, I'd rather know that now so that I can make plan adjustments to my Bedini machine if needed. I know that a lot of people want to cut their heating costs, so will update both projects when available.

Best to everyone,

Rickoff :)

rickoff
06-25-2008, 12:34 AM
I found a great table which shows all the AWG wire sizes and their related properties. This is a great tool for anyone building a circuit that uses wires, or for someone selecting bobbin sizes and winding coils. You can quickly determine what wire size should be used to handle a certain amperage, and the table also shows you wire diameters, weight, resistance, and other pertinent factors. It is great to have handy when determining what bobbin size will be adequate for a desired number of turns of a specific AWG wire size. See the table here: AWG wire size and factors table.txt - Windows Live SkyDrive (http://cid-a4a1d6e4bb17a7e3.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/Public/AWG%20wire%20size%20considerations/AWG%20wire%20size%20and%20factors%20table.txt)

Please note that the TPI factor (Turns Per Inch) in the AWG wire size table relates to a wire laid on a flat surface and spiraling around itself in a single layer. TPI does not relate to turns made when winding a bobbin coil, which is dependent on both the Inside height of the bobbin and the outside diameter of the core. If you divide the inside height of the bobbin by the wire diameter, this will give you the number of turns required to complete a single layer on the bobbin, which we can call Factor A. To determine how many layers will be required for a bobbin of X number of turns, simply divide X by Factor A, and this we will call Factor B. Unless you are using an automatic turns counter jig, it is easier to count layers than to keep track of turns. To determine if your bobbin is of adequate size to hold X number of turns of a specific AWG wire size, first estimate the height of bobbin you are planning to use and then find factors A and B. Once factor B is known, multiply factor B by the diameter of the wire. This will tell you the combined height of the layers, and we will call this Factor C. If you measure an empty bobbin from the outside of the core to the outside of the bobbin end cap, your bobbin size is adequate if the measurement is larger than Factor C. Please note that the table is good for estimating Factor A, but that the table only accounts for a bare wire diameter. To more precisely determine Factor A and Factor C, the insulated (coated) coil wire diameter must be measured with a micrometer. Naturally, if you are winding a coil with 2, 3, or more wires for each turn, then you must adjust Factor A accordingly. For example, a coil wound with 3 wires (Trifilar) of the same AWG size will yield 1/3 the number of turns per layer that a single wire would yield.

I hope this table, and the above information, will be helpful to many people who are searching for answers to their design questions.

Best regards, Rickoff :)

theremart
06-27-2008, 11:24 AM
Found this video...

YouTube - Water as Fuel Test 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8R2fNukDCPs)

Interesting what a coil can do!

Mart

rickoff
06-27-2008, 08:47 PM
Hi Mart,

Yes, that video is quite interesting. Note that the power connection to the capacitor is cut off before discharging the cap. That's the same effect that Ren mentioned in a recent post ( see http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2179-bedini-cole-bipolar-switch-how-drastically-reduce-your-input.html#post21748 ).

The experimenter says that the capacitor is rated at 400 volts, but that he is only charging it to about 105 volts. It appears that the experimenter attempted (and somewhat succeeded) to replicate the circuit setup shown in the s1r9a9m9 video (small engine running on water) seen at YouTube - Video 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb3d_hf7R10).
Even more interesting is the fact that s1r9a9m9 watched the video, and wrote the following response:
" Nice set up. If you use a coil with two windings going through a main coil to boost the output spark up about 10 times what you have now you will have a system almost like mine. You can test your set up on a weed eater motor and know for sure that you have it. I like people like you who dont wait on slow folks like me. Thanks for the video and keep on sparking."
Those who are interested in researching and replicating this technology can learn more about it here: Water Car Technology From 1950 Resurrected (http://pesn.com/2006/11/26/9500437_1950_Water_Car_Tech_Resurrected/)

Happy sparking,

Rickoff :)

theremart
06-27-2008, 09:37 PM
Hi Mart,

Yes, that video is quite interesting. Note that the power connection to the capacitor is cut off before discharging the cap. That's the same effect that Ren mentioned in a recent post ( see http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2179-bedini-cole-bipolar-switch-how-drastically-reduce-your-input.html#post21748 ).

The experimenter says that the capacitor is rated at 400 volts, but that he is only charging it to about 105 volts. It appears that the experimenter attempted (and somewhat succeeded) to replicate the circuit setup shown in the s1r9a9m9 video (small engine running on water) seen at YouTube - Video 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tb3d_hf7R10).
Even more interesting is the fact that s1r9a9m9 watched the video, and wrote the following response:
" Nice set up. If you use a coil with two windings going through a main coil to boost the output spark up about 10 times what you have now you will have a system almost like mine. You can test your set up on a weed eater motor and know for sure that you have it. I like people like you who dont wait on slow folks like me. Thanks for the video and keep on sparking."
Those who are interested in researching and replicating this technology can learn more about it here: Water Car Technology From 1950 Resurrected (http://pesn.com/2006/11/26/9500437_1950_Water_Car_Tech_Resurrected/)

Happy sparking,

Rickoff :)

This is one at 900V

YouTube - Water Cracker pt 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWglLC_UEwc)

Sephiroth
06-28-2008, 12:38 PM
Just thought I would let you know that Geo (the mythbuster's expert) has replied to my query. :thumbsup:
> Hi George,
>
>
> I saw your appearance on Mythbusters and was wondering why you presented
>that contraption instead of the Bedini Schoolgirl Motor? You are obviously an
>intelligent guy, so I don't understand how you could have thought that was an
>accurate depiction of the patent.
>
>
> I honestly don't understand it, and would appreciate your input.
>
>
> Yours Sincerely
>
> Introvertebrate

His Reply:

Hi Intro--

none of the contraptions were my choice to present. Honestly, I thought the
whole thing was a crock of ****. And, it contributed to the dismantling of
the 13 year friendship between Adam and I.

What's the Bedini Schoolgirl Motor?

//Geo

I have sent him some information on what the SSG actually is... it sounds like Adam showed him what to build so he hasn't actually seen the schematic! :rofl:

dmparr
06-28-2008, 01:56 PM
Hello everyone I'm new to this technology and the forum so if I'm asking a question that has already been discussed many times over please forgive me.

I've watched countless videos on youtube and i've been reading all of your posts and I have a question about building the rotor of the SG. I've seen the rotors can be anything from machined plastics to a computer CD or even a block of wood. But that kinda setup just isn't me, I have to make things difficult. :D I haven't seen the SG rotor made from steel though? Is that because regular mild steel is magnetic and would interfeir with the magnetic feild? If so why not use a 300 series stainless steel as it is non-magnetic in annealed form plus it is nice and heavy so it would carry alot of momentum, granted I know stainless steel isn't very cheap.

I have acess to a CNC Vertical Lathe with live tooling capability so makeing a precision rotor won't be a problem. My goal is to build a motor that can be used as an electric bicycle assist.

Thanks in advance for any help.
DJ

gmeat
06-28-2008, 02:41 PM
Hello everyone I'm new to this technology and the forum so if I'm asking a question that has already been discussed many times over please forgive me.

I've watched countless videos on youtube and i've been reading all of your posts and I have a question about building the rotor of the SG. I've seen the rotors can be anything from machined plastics to a computer CD or even a block of wood. But that kinda setup just isn't me, I have to make things difficult. :D I haven't seen the SG rotor made from steel though? Is that because regular mild steel is magnetic and would interfeir with the magnetic feild? If so why not use a 300 series stainless steel as it is non-magnetic in annealed form plus it is nice and heavy so it would carry alot of momentum, granted I know stainless steel isn't very cheap.

I have acess to a CNC Vertical Lathe with live tooling capability so makeing a precision rotor won't be a problem. My goal is to build a motor that can be used as an electric bicycle assist.

Thanks in advance for any help.
DJ


Hello Dmparr,


Welcome to the forum.The idea behind the SSG is NOT torque in a motor per se but more about energy recovery and teaching people about radiant energy (or energy that conventional EE just throws away).In your case it seems like you want torque in a motor to propell a bicycle.While there is ALOT you can learn with the SSG concepts I would suggest leaning more towards the Electric motor secrets thread and reading the entire thread from start to finish to accomplish your end goal of producing a rather unique motor to propell your bicycle.Anyways, Thats just my 2 cents worth and maybe others will disagree with my point of view,But its nice to see a machinist in these forums that I'm sure You could be of great assistance in further development of these ideas.Again Welcome to the forums:thumbsup: .


-Gary

dmparr
06-28-2008, 03:12 PM
Thank you for the warm welcome. My ideas are to use the lindemann motor as the assist and perhaps implement the bedini SG to help recharge will riding.

Thanks DJ.

Bodkins
06-28-2008, 06:17 PM
You could use water pipes probably as the regular ground.

I use galvanized steel rod for the ground rod negative for grounding the SG circuit to the earth...(no diode at all, just like John's schematics). Then use copper for the rod with the diode. Now you have an earth battery. You can use plates or rods or any other method. If multi-cell, use the neg as the earth ground negative and use the positive terminal of the earth battery as the connection with diode to charging battery +. This is the first time I ever described this out in the open.

Thank you Aaron
All the pieces are coming together Now all i need is time!:thumbsup:

theremart
06-28-2008, 07:25 PM
Just thought I would let you know that Geo (the mythbuster's expert) has replied to my query. :thumbsup:
> Hi George,
>
>
> I saw your appearance on Mythbusters and was wondering why you presented
>that contraption instead of the Bedini Schoolgirl Motor? You are obviously an
>intelligent guy, so I don't understand how you could have thought that was an
>accurate depiction of the patent.
>
>
> I honestly don't understand it, and would appreciate your input.
>
>
> Yours Sincerely
>
> Introvertebrate

His Reply:



I have sent him some information on what the SSG actually is... it sounds like Adam showed him what to build so he hasn't actually seen the schematic! :rofl:
--------------
I think what was done in the video was to destroy not the SSG, but rather the first booklet Bedini put out. The motor that would run itself. ( Now included in the FEG book )

From what you have found out, the degree of this crime just went up 7 magnitudes.....

::( :mad: :(

Aaron
06-28-2008, 08:20 PM
Bodkins, see
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2209-earth-battery-sg.html

vzon17
06-29-2008, 07:38 AM
Thank you for the warm welcome. My ideas are to use the lindemann motor as the assist and perhaps implement the bedini SG to help recharge will riding.

Thanks DJ.

Yeah I have been thinking along similar lines. I thought I would try putting some magnets inside a tire with a little silicon and the innner tube pressure would hold it in position real well. then have a coil on the frame. or if you had a good strong fender then one could have a series of coils along the inside of the fender to interact with the magnets in the tire. I havent thought out all the details yet but seems like if one could get some radiant energy going on a bike to charge the batteries and drive it forward that would be a beautiful thing. Get that all figured out and working and then do a car next.

dmparr
06-29-2008, 02:19 PM
Yeah I have been thinking along similar lines. I thought I would try putting some magnets inside a tire with a little silicon and the innner tube pressure would hold it in position real well. then have a coil on the frame. or if you had a good strong fender then one could have a series of coils along the inside of the fender to interact with the magnets in the tire. I havent thought out all the details yet but seems like if one could get some radiant energy going on a bike to charge the batteries and drive it forward that would be a beautiful thing. Get that all figured out and working and then do a car next.

Well what would be ideal is something thats light weight (less then 500 lbs including driver) but inclosed enough that it could be driven in the rain or even the light snow I get here. Something like this might do the trick http://i.treehugger.com/images/2007-2-15/bugEV.jpg. Now I've done a lot of research on that little trike and they use what I believe is a rather large motor for something that small and light weight. So if the Lindemann atraction motor can produce enough power and torque and not draw as much as a standard DC electric motor then I believe it is possible to power this little contraption. Either way I believe it's atleast worth a look. :thumbsup:

Now for the Bedini side of things I was thinking of a motor cycle brake rotor off a dirt bike or something of the like. You could place magnets around the edge of the rotor but on the face of the rotor, faceing inward. Thus allowing the batteries to recharge during freewheeling on the front wheels. Or as I read in another post about useing the custom wheels "spinners". If you could use a one way bearing on the front end with a bedini style rotor on it, only allowing the rotor to freewheel in one direction, IE forward. So when you accelerate your bike or trike the rotor would spin upto speed and free wheel. The problem with this from a design stand point is the heaver the rotor is the more momentum it would carry so it would freewheel longer. At the same time though the heavier the rotational mass the harder it is to accel upto speed, not to mention it's harder on the suspension as a whole. O one other problem with the "spinner" idea is that would act just like a gyro so it would be hard to turn, on the same note a wheel turning on a car acts like a gyro also so I don't know how much effect this would have.

Don't be afraid to give me your honest opinion on this matter as i'm not easily offended. Honest I'm not a looney toon :dance: :blowout: :yahoo:

Ok I'll stop rambling on and on.

Thanks DJ.

rickoff
06-30-2008, 09:23 AM
Guys, have you seen the new post put up by Aaron about the electric bike?
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2211-brushless-electric-hub-bicycle-motors.html#post22119
It is a conversion kit that replaces the front wheel of your bike with one that has a neodymium magnet, brushless motor hub. At the bottom of the Go-hub web page, you will see a gif image of the motor in rotation. It's basically a 3 phased Bedini machine. If this little motor will propel a person at 25 to 30 mph, think what a 14 inch motor version could do! :thumbsup:

Happy motoring,

Rickoff :)

vzon17
06-30-2008, 01:38 PM
Guys, have you seen the new post put up by Aaron about the electric bike?
http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/2211-brushless-electric-hub-bicycle-motors.html#post22119
It is a conversion kit that replaces the front wheel of your bike with one that has a neodymium magnet, brushless motor hub. At the bottom of the Go-hub web page, you will see a gif image of the motor in rotation. It's basically a 3 phased Bedini machine. If this little motor will propel a person at 25 to 30 mph, think what a 14 inch motor version could do! :thumbsup:

Happy motoring,

Rickoff :)

Yeah I have seen that. I have been looking into those hub motors for a couple months I am saving up for one. I am working on rigging up some kind of radiant charger for the bike so it can charge the batteries while moving. maybe with magnets and coils on the spokes or something. now imagine an electric bike that you never have to charge the batteries. I was thinking of a big capacitor between the batteries and the motor so one could switch out the battries in intervals to charge them while the cap takes over driving the motor. Maybe have the timing load driven. more charging cycles at low loads and less at high loads. and continuos while coasting or going down hill. utilizing Tom Beardens free energy concepts.

rickoff
07-02-2008, 03:33 AM
That's the stuff, Vzon. Go for it! And keep us posted, in this thread, on your concept and progress.

Happy biking,

Rickoff :)

dambit
07-02-2008, 06:23 AM
Hi all,

Not sure if this should be in this thread so move it if need be.

I was running my ssg circuit last night when all of a sudden it stopped. I opened it up and found that one of the diodes had come off its solder point. I fixed it and when I hooked it all up it still wouldn't run. So, thinking that the problem was more serious I went ahead and started to test the components, but I forgot to take them out of circuit and when I put my multimeter across the 100ohm base resistor the coil started to self oscillate. It only does this when the meter is connected and set to the 200ohm selection. (it works at other settings but not as well). After some fiddeling around I got the oscillations stable at approximately 22.2KHz. (measured on the scope and very annoying sound. gives me a slight headache). Also the radient spikes at this frequency are about 70-80 volts. Thats the highest I can get them. I can get higher ones with my other coil, but it only oscillates at 10KHz.

Basically I'm after an answer as to whats happening and is it a good thing. It seems to be as it is drawing less from the primary batt (150mA) and is charging the other battery much faster. Also no need for magnets. I am running it like this with all the magnets removed and out of the way.

In the pic of the scope shot, the time dev is set to 50 micro seconds and the voltage dev is set to 5 volts per. Also with the multimeter, it only oscillates when the probes are connect in that way. It does not work reversed.

Cheers,

Steve.

Aaron
07-02-2008, 06:36 AM
Hi Steve,

Is it oscillating with that H wave pattern or was that when it was running as an SSG?

dambit
07-02-2008, 06:55 AM
Thats the H-wave when it is oscillating. Also the coil is south wound. Not sure if that matters as there are no magnets in this process.