View Full Version : Smack Booster

05-19-2008, 10:55 PM
I had a very interesting conversation today with another member of this forum.

He talked with me about the "Smack Booster" he has installed in his truck.

Since I do not recall seeing it mentioned on this forum before, I am posting a link to it here.

Directory:Smack Booster - PESWiki (http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:Smack_Booster)

This is something I believe I will be installing on my truck soon. :)

If anyone else has built one of these and is using it, please share.


05-20-2008, 12:07 AM
Kevin, keep up the good work. Don't let the nay-sayers get to you. I have 2 cars with smacks on them. One is a 93 Lincoln V6 and it went from 23 mpg to 35 mpg. The other is a 99 Lincoln V8 and it went from 21 to 29 mpg. So, in looking back, please don't tell these cars that it don't work, cause we like the extra gas mileage. Both of these units run at app: 20 amps when warm. The 93 has the booster in front of the radiator and it feel warm after about an hour on the road, but has never felt hot. The 99 has it on top of the engine, front wheel drive V8 don't leave much room. I read some of the "de-bunkers" work.. All BS as far as I'm concerned. I am 72 years old, have done all this myself (build,install and maintain). and I'm not about to stop now. Am building them for my friends and relatives till the big oil baddies stop me, and I ain't gonna live forever any way. I don't want to just die, for no reason. LOL Keep experimenting and never stop growing. :cheers:

05-20-2008, 03:36 AM
Hi Garrydb,

Have you done any modification to your oxygen sensor(s)?

05-20-2008, 07:41 AM
I am using a Smack Booster in my 1998 Mazda B2500 truck, and am the person who was at the other end of the conversation Kevin referred to. After installing, I went from 18 mpg up to between 25 and 28 mpg. [actually, that is incorrect - the before and after results were much higher. Please see the correction I made at post #7 of this thread.] The unit puts out around 1.7 liters per minute of HHO if properly constructed and conditioned, and when drawing 18 to 20 amps. To obtain these results, you must fake out the vehicle's computer by either using an Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancer (EFIE), or an alternative device. Otherwise, when the oxygen sensor detects the increased Oxygen level in the exhaust stream, the computer will send more gasoline to the mix in an attempt to maintain an air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1. To avoid that situation, I decided to first try out an oxygen sensor offset device, which simply moves the sensor out of the direct exhaust stream while still allowing it to heat up normally. It worked fine for me, but some people say it did not work that well for them. Still, I think it is a good first choice. The offset device can be purchased for $25 at: Products of Protium Fuel Systems Research & Development (http://www.protiumfuelsystems.com/oxyisolator.html) or you can easily make your own, as described in the following 2 posts, by modifying sparkplug anti-foulers at a cost of $5. If an EFIE is needed, you can either purchase a ready-made unit or build your own. An excellent resource document for building, testing and using your own EFIE is available at: http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/D17.pdf If you go this route, don't build from the first schematic and component list you come to. The pages near the end of the document include several refinements to the design to improve reliability and performance. Also note that up-to-date Smack Booster plans, and instructional videos are available at:
The only modification that I added to my Smack Booster design was a safety device to immediately release pressure in the unlikely event of an internal explosion of the HHO gas within the booster. The booster already utilizes very good protective features, but I liked the blowout system shown at the following site, so added that to mine: YouTube - #81 - VSPB Cell blowout test 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWpdtC6TJ8k)

I chose the Smack Booster design for my build because: (1.) The design, parts list, construction, testing and setup details are well documented and freely available. (2.) It provides the best Hydroxy gas output per cost of construction - materials total is around $100. (3) It is safe, effective, and easy to maintain.

You will notice, in the Smack Booster plan photos, it is suggested that you use some long stainless steel dinnerware forks for making the positive and negative leads that attach the plate array to the PVC endcap. You will need three for the job - one for the positive lead at outside of plate array, one for the negative at top center of array, and the third to run underneath the array and connect the two positive end plates. I found my forks at the Dollar Tree store, where every item is exactly one dollar, so I thought that was a pretty good deal. The forks have a 5/16" slot already cut into the handle end, and the two-tine opening is also 5/16", which is same size as the mounting nuts and bolts used. So all you need do is to cut the tines off to leave an open end slot about 3/8" in length, and then bend the forks where needed to duplicate the ones shown in the construction photos. And before you assemble everything, be sure to coat the surfaces of each fork, between the end slots, with Tool Dip.

05-20-2008, 12:36 PM
Hi Garrydb,

Have you done any modification to your oxygen sensor(s)?

Yes, I went to Autozone and purchased 1-spark plug anti-fouler set (package contains 2). Then I drilled them out to 1/2 inch and used those. First installation was my 93, I bought those adapters from Protium Garage, took 3 weeks to get them and that's all they were, one was a little longer than the other, but basically the same thing. They cost $20 + shipping, anti-foulers cost $4.99.

05-20-2008, 07:29 PM
Good idea garrydb. The anti-foulers are basically the same thing, and easy enough to adapt if one doesn't mind doing a little extra work. Thanks for sharing that advice. Those wishing to modify anti-foulers as O2 sensor offsets should refer to the excellent how-to post by Aaron, which can be found at: http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/1387-o2-sensor-modification-using-spark-plug-non-foulers.html

07-02-2008, 07:15 AM
You can see a photo of my Modified Smack Booster, and a description of the modifications, at the following link:

I hope that this proves useful, or at least interesting to those who are thinking of building a Smack Booster, and even to those who have already built one. Dennis ("The Smack") gave the well documented plans freely to encourage people to build and modify the design. Obviously there are other designs, such as the Bob Boyce 101 plate brute force unit, that are more sophisticated and put out more HHO, but the Smack Booster offers about the best bang for the bucks spent (1.7 lpm for about $100), and can be built by anyone who has a bit of mechanical ability. It is a great first-timer project, and if you build it to specifications I don't think you will be disappointed.

By the way, I erred in an earlier post to this thread when I stated my "before and after" results. I went back into some gas receipts that I saved from my "before and after tests," and see that my actual "before booster" miles per gallon was 27 mpg, and my "after booster" value was between 35 and 38 mpg average, which is a 36.5 to 40 % increase. With gas prices being what they are (around $4.10), it doesn't take long to realize a payback on your investment. And, after that, it is like being able to buy gas at $2.50 a gallon. Personally, I think that even $2.50 a gallon is a rip-off price, but it sure beats $4.10. :thumbsup:

Happy motoring to all,

Rickoff :)