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Bizzy
03-11-2012, 01:02 AM
Good evening
I have been regularly posting the progress of my experiments on Electricity's Watson Machine thread. However several freinds here on the forum suggested that I start a different thread since I am the one who is still actually working on this project so here it goes...

Also it has been made very clear that John Bedini is the person who actually developed this type of machine first before Watson so I thought it only fitting that I call my machine a Bedini Machine instead. I have a great admiration for John and am truely in awe of his work.

Basically in this thread I am attempting to run a standard off the shelf motor with an alternator for a power source. Eventually it is my goal to have the alternator supply all the power required to the motor which actually drives itself.
In theory this is helped along in two ways.

First of all the power to the motor is pulsed from what ever source is used. Once the momentum in a motor is started there is less power required to continue its movement. The transfer switch that I developed is timed to pulse once per revolution.
Secondly a fly wheel is used on the shaft of the motor to store the power in momentum so that the motor continues forcefully spinning while the power is off during the pulsing cycle. The magnets and counter weights on the trigger wheel that triggers the transfer switch, acts as the weight of the flywheel to keep momentum.

One of the basic problems in this type of machine is that when a motor and alternator are hooked directly together, Lenz's law greatly slows down the alternator and decreases the current going into the motor.
In my last video I demonstrate this

Transfer Switch.AVI - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol9DhrI3bD8&feature=channel)

When I attached a motor directly to an alternator there was a 507 rpm decrease in the alternator.
However when I isolate the motor from the alternator using my transfer switch there is only a 277 rpm reducing in the alternator.

Since the last video I have made several improvements and am now able to run a motor from an alternator via the transfer switch with only a 90 rpm reduction in the alternator.

Transfer Switch part 2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGRttZo_Px8&feature=channel)

This is achieved by a better matched switch and alternator capacitor. I have also added several diodes to help guide the currently properly. In addition I attached the positive side of the fly back diode directly to the switch capacitor. This uses the back emf from the motor to keep the switch capacitor charged more so that the alternator capacitor doesn't have to drain more current which would require the alternator to put out more current and thus slow down when having to charge the alternator capacitor more.

This is where I am at this point in my work. Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Bizzy

FRC
03-12-2012, 09:23 AM
Good to see you started your own thread for this. Have you tried putting a load on your alternator(s) to see what would happen ? I was wondering if you would
get the same effect as in "the 3 battery generating system". That is if your
RPM's would increase when a load is applied ?

George

Bizzy
03-12-2012, 09:36 AM
Good to see you started your own thread for this. Have you tried putting a load on your alternator(s) to see what would happen ? I was wondering if you would
get the same effect as in "the 3 battery generating system". That is if your
RPM's would increase when a load is applied ?

George

Hi George
So far the only load I have put on the alternators is the capacitor, which reduces the rpm s by 90. I haven't really been following the 3 battery thread that closely, but if you think it would increase the rpms I am all for it. I will start reading it today and see if it would work.
thanks:thumbsup:
Bizzy

wrtner
03-12-2012, 11:18 AM
Good to see you started your own thread for this. Have you tried putting a load on your alternator(s) to see what would happen ? I was wondering if you would
get the same effect as in "the 3 battery generating system". That is if your
RPMs would increase when a load is applied ?

George

Surely the $64,000 dollar question is what happens to the current when
the load is applied.

Bizzy
03-12-2012, 12:13 PM
Surely the $64,000 dollar question is what happens to the current when
the load is applied.

Good morning
If I am understanding your question (and please correct me if I am wrong) you are asking about the current from the back emf when the motor is engaged. If that is your question then the answer would be the back emf (current) is routed to the switching capacitor. This charges the switching capacitor so that it has to draw less power from the alternator capacitor. Since there is less power drawn from the alternator capacitor, the alternator has to work less to recharge the alternator capacitor.

After several of other tests I can finally conclude that simply charging a capacitor will put a drag on the alternator. If I run just the alternator with no capacitor then suddenly closed the circuit to hook up a capacitor, there is a significant slowing of the alterator as well as a drop in voltage while it fills up the capacitor. However Once the capacitor is filled the alternaor resumes its normal speed.

This can be seen on my last video.

Intially the alternator voltage is 20.4 When I engage the switch and motor the alternator voltage drops down to 16.X This is when the switch capacitor is first being charged. However once the intial charge is complete and the back emf can help charge the switch capacitor the voltage from the alternator goes back upto 17.1
Let me know if that helps to answer your question.
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-12-2012, 04:41 PM
Good afternoon
Since I have switched threads I also wanted to point out that some were inquiring about the capacitor to capacitor transfer percentage.
With 17 volts at the alternator capacitor and 15.3 volts the swicth capacitor I am getting 90% voltage transfer.
However prior to sending the back emf to the switch capacitor I was getting 14.X volts in the switch capaictor which means there is actually only 82% of the volts being transfered to the switch capacitor from the alternator capacitor.

Bizzy

Bizzy
03-13-2012, 10:27 AM
Good to see you started your own thread for this. Have you tried putting a load on your alternator(s) to see what would happen ? I was wondering if you would
get the same effect as in "the 3 battery generating system". That is if your
RPM's would increase when a load is applied ?

George

Hi George
I read alot of the 3 battery thread last night and tried putting a load on the alternator like Turion did...no gain rpm
Bizzy

alvarohn
03-13-2012, 02:52 PM
Are you using linear arrangement of magnets and coils in the alternator? or non linear?
best,

Alvaro

Bizzy
03-13-2012, 04:16 PM
Are you using linear arrangement of magnets and coils in the alternator? or non linear?
best,

Alvaro

Hi Alvaro
I am using a "Star Configuration". I got the idea from Hugh Piggot Hugh Piggott's home page (http://scoraigwind.com/) while I was working on windmills a few years ago.
I am in the process of adding still another alternator to my machine so I can do a small video describing the alternator better and how it is set up and hopefully describe it in more detail this weekend for you.
Bizzy

alvarohn
03-13-2012, 04:41 PM
I think that in 2010 convention dvd John Bedini says that the "energizer" should be with non linear arrangements of magnets and coils, not all coils passing magnets at the same time. to Create Asymmetry.

best,

Bizzy
03-13-2012, 04:54 PM
I think that in 2010 convention dvd John Bedini says that the "energizer" should be with non linear arrangements of magnets and coils, not all coils passing magnets at the same time. to Create Asymmetry.

best,

Hi Alvarohn,
In mine I use 8 (1"X2") magnets each with altering polarity S/N/S/N/S/N
And I use 6 coils of 14 gauge wire. Each coil is wound around a 1"X2" jig so that there are actuallt 12 coil bundles (2 bundles for each coil) for the magnets to pass over. So that there is only one magnet over a coil at any one time.
I didn't know the name until you mentioned it so yes mine are also non linear
Thanks
Bizzy

wrtner
03-13-2012, 10:20 PM
Don't forget that central pillars of Bedini's design are the flywheel
and that the pulse going to the motor must be out of phase with
the pulse coming from the energiser.
Paul-R

Turion
03-14-2012, 12:49 AM
Bizzy,
From what I understand, the magnetic field of one device will interact and adversely affect the other device. A non conductive coupling device would help. A shield of some kind between the two might help, but turning the second device 90 degrees from the first should actually cause the magnetic field of one to assist the other. I know that's a pain in the butt design change, but I will look around to see what gearing I have that will do that. I know I have some somewhere!

Dave

Bizzy
03-14-2012, 11:47 AM
Don't forget that central pillars of Bedini's design are the flywheel
and that the pulse going to the motor must be out of phase with
the pulse coming from the energiser.
Paul-R

Hi Paul,
In those two cases I have it covered...
The trigger wheel and magnets act as a flywheel for the main shaft.
The switch and trigger magnets pulse the motor from the transfer capacitor when the energizer/alternator and the switch capacitor swicth capaitor are disconnected.
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-14-2012, 11:49 AM
Bizzy,
From what I understand, the magnetic field of one device will interact and adversely affect the other device. A non conductive coupling device would help. A shield of some kind between the two might help, but turning the second device 90 degrees from the first should actually cause the magnetic field of one to assist the other. I know that's a pain in the butt design change, but I will look around to see what gearing I have that will do that. I know I have some somewhere!

Dave

Hi Dave,
When the switch is engaged it acts as an insulator between the alternator and the motor. What do you mean by "turning the second device 90%"?
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-14-2012, 11:54 AM
Good morning everyone,
As usual I was running some tests on my machine before work and I recalled a post I read in the forum some time ago. Unfortunately I don't recall who said it or where but I do recall the quote it said.
"Current is more important than volts to run a motor"
I am seeing that is true when I run my various tests. When amps are higher so is motor speed.
So my question is how do I convert volts to amps.
I don't mean mathematically i=v/r i mean actually converting volts to amps in a circuit. As usualy any imput would be greatly apprciated.
Thanks
Bizzy

FRC
03-14-2012, 12:16 PM
Good morning everyone,
As usual I was running some tests on my machine before work and I recalled a post I read in the forum some time ago. Unfortunately I don't recall who said it or where but I do recall the quote it said.
"Current is more important than volts to run a motor"
I am seeing that is true when I run my various tests. When amps are higher so is motor speed.
So my question is how do I convert volts to amps.
I don't mean mathematically i=v/r i mean actually converting volts to amps in a circuit.
As usualy any imput would be greatly apprciated.
Thanks
Bizzy

I think it was mbrown in the Lockridge thread that said it. Isn't it by reducing
voltage that amps increase ? You might need some type of DC to DC converter. I think it can also be done with capacitors. Say three 4v capacitors in series = 12v, then tap two Capacitors to = 8 volts. I don't know for sure. There are lot more expert people around here than me for this. Another way that will increase amperage for sure, without loss of voltage, is to parallel two or more batteries. You will get the combined amperage
of all the batteries you are using. I am assuming you are using 12v batteries.

George

Bizzy
03-14-2012, 12:55 PM
I think it was mbrown in the Lockridge thread that said it. Isn't it by reducing
voltage that amps increase ? You might need some type of DC to DC converter. I think it can also be done with capacitors. Say three 4v capacitors in series = 12v, then tap two Capacitors to = 8 volts. I don't know for sure. There are lot more expert people around here than me for this. Another way that will increase amperage for sure, without loss of voltage, is to parallel two or more batteries. You will get the combined amperage
of all the batteries you are using. I am assuming you are using 12v batteries.

George

Hi George
Yes it was mbrown thanks for helping me remember!

Yes I know about using batteries or capacitors in parrallel to increase amperage.
I like the idea of using 12 volt capictors then sizing the capacior voltage down to 8 volts etc. Kind of like a funnel....I thought about that before but not for this reason. This warrants serious consideration. I will have to test this very soon.
Thanks
Bizzy

wrtner
03-14-2012, 01:57 PM
Hi Paul,
In those two cases I have it covered...
The trigger wheel and magnets act as a flywheel for the main shaft.
The switch and trigger magnets pulse the motor from the transfer capacitor when the energizer/alternator and the switch capacitor switch capacitor are disconnected.
Bizzy

Dear Bizzy,

Have another look at Jim Watson's development of John Bedini's original
proposition. He took it to another level. That has is a real flywheel. I
understand that the flywheel matters.

It would be good if JB would comment.......

Bizzy
03-14-2012, 02:12 PM
Dear Bizzy,

Have another look at Jim Watson's development of John Bedini's original
proposition. He took it to another level. That has is a real flywheel. I
understand that the flywheel matters.

It would be good if JB would comment.......

Hi Paul,
I can add weight to the flywheel/triggerwheel at any time although given my space contrant I can not add any further distance away from the center.
I am a little hesistant to add further weight at this time only becuase I have it balance to my motor size. However once I get the circuit worked out better I would very much like to do just that.
vielen Dank
Bizzy

wrtner
03-15-2012, 12:18 AM
I am a little hesistant to add further weight at this time

I think you need to design in a need for a heavy flywheel
or your project may never deliver a good COP.
Check out the first two projects here:
IDEAS AND MOTORS (http://www.icehouse.net/john1/idea.html)

Bizzy
03-15-2012, 09:34 AM
I think you need to design in a need for a heavy flywheel
or your project may never deliver a good COP.
Check out the first two projects here:
IDEAS AND MOTORS (http://www.icehouse.net/john1/idea.html)

Hi Paul
Thanks for sharing those it has been a while since I delved into that site. There is a way I can add more weight onto my flywheel protion of the trigger wheel. Once I complete the experiments I am currently in I can do that.
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-15-2012, 11:33 AM
I think it was mbrown in the Lockridge thread that said it. Isn't it by reducing
voltage that amps increase ? You might need some type of DC to DC converter. I think it can also be done with capacitors. Say three 4v capacitors in series = 12v, then tap two Capacitors to = 8 volts. I don't know for sure. There are lot more expert people around here than me for this. Another way that will increase amperage for sure, without loss of voltage, is to parallel two or more batteries. You will get the combined amperage
of all the batteries you are using. I am assuming you are using 12v batteries.

George

Hi George
Last night I started running some tests with two capacitors in a series at the alternator. The intial tests look promising. I am getting higher amperage reading on my test motor as well as higher test motor speeds. There is however a slightly higher differance in alternator speed as a result but I may be able to work able that.
Thanks
Bizzy

FRC
03-15-2012, 11:54 AM
Bizzy,

Glad I was able to throw out some ideas that helped. I wish I was more of an
expert on this kind of stuff. Sounds like you are making progress at least. I
think you will eventually get the results you want if you keep at it.

George

Bizzy
03-15-2012, 06:43 PM
Hi George
I went back into some of my previous tests where I did infact use two capacitors in series or higher voltage capacitors at the alternator. If you look at my last video my starting video was only 20.X volts. However in previous videos it was 26 to 27 volts because I used the higher voltage capacitors. The higher capacitor volts also allowed the alternator to run faster. Since it started higher it had further to drop when I engaged the switch. This was giving me higher differance readings in speed, which was what I was watching to gauge performance.
However In looking over the numbers more closely all the "improved" tests would stop falling when the alternator speed was around 600 to 650 rpms.
So I was able to determine that as long as the alternator was spinning in that range it is ok so then in that grouping I looked for the best actual test motor speed.
There were exceptions BUT in MOST cases the test that used the alternator capacitors in series gave the highest test motor speed.
This doesn't solve all of my technical problems but it does set me in a better direction than I was before.

Sometimes we have the answers right under our nose but we need other people to remind us to look.
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-16-2012, 12:16 PM
Good morning

After additional research here is my updated switch circuit.
The changes I made keep the speed of the alternator around the mid 600 rpm zone but produces a higher speed on the test motor around 2300+ rpms

The first change you will notice is the two capictors in series at the alternator. This allows for a higher initial alternator speed and higher voltage at the alternator which is allowed to convert to amperage when it continues to the switch capacitor(thanks George)
The next change you will notice is the removal of the diode between the switch and the alternator capacitor.
The biggest change you will notice is that the back emf from the motor now is diverted to the alternator capacitor instead of the switch capacitor. The reason for the better performance is that the back emf is more voltage than current. Since the voltage capacity is now increased it can accomodatethe additional voltage better than the single switch capacitor.
Feel free to ask any questions you may have.
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-19-2012, 04:36 PM
Good afternoon
I wanted to share an update on my Bedini Machine.
This past weekend I continued my testing of using series capacitors at the alternator. It looks very promising. There are also a few more circuit adjustments I need to test before I continue forward as well.

I also tested using batteries instead of the alternator capacitors. In this test the switch is hooked up directly to the main motor which turns the alternator rotors.
Previously it would only run for 1 hour and 10 minutes
With the improved circuit it ran for 4 hour 50 minutes
When I added the 2nd alternator it ran for 13 hours 35 minutes. ( my wife hated this one because it is so loud)
It should also be noted that adding the 2nd alternator to the shaft does not slow down the shaft. It does however require a little longer to get up to maximum speed.

Eventually once I have my circuit worked out completely that I will be able to add as many alternators as needed to supply the alternator capacitors with the required power.

I didn't have time to make the alternator video. I will wait until I add the next alternator to make the next video that way I can show everone what it looks like when it is apart.
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-21-2012, 12:07 AM
Good evening
Tonight after dinner I was in the workshop tinkering as usual. For the past few days I have been rebuilding my stator supports so that I can stack additional alternators onto my unit.
As I usually did after each part was fastened I did a breif test to make sure everything was running smoothly. At one point I must have moved a wire which acted as a spring at the switch. The results were astounding. I went from 2300 rpms to 2750 rpms while the alternator speed remained constant at 650 rpms.
This wire acted as a spring which forced the switch down faster so the reaction time of the switch was quicker, thus giving me more amps at the test motor.
This deserve further testing before I proceed.
Bizzy

Bizzy
03-27-2012, 12:33 PM
Good morning
After quite a bit of testing and tweeking I took George's suggestion of the series capacitor and went one step further. I put two batteries in series at the alternator in place of the capacitors. The results were excellent.
Because capacitors charge and discharge differently than batteries, the alternator speed was only reduced by 50 rpms when the switch was engaged. The reason is that a capaitor charges and discharges quickier than a battery so it makes the alternator work harder, which slows the alternator down as I have shown on previous videos.
In addition I was now able to increase my test motor speed to 2900 rpms. I was able to sustain those speeds two hours until I deteced any type of volt/speed drop in the alternator.
Just running the test motor from the battery via the switch but not charging the battery with the alternaor, I would detect a reduction in battery voltage and test motor speed after 3 minutes.
This means if I can maintain such a high speed I will need fewer alternators to keep the batteries charges to run the main motor once I close the system.
I have a few more tests to run before I am able to go that far.
Bizzy

FRC
03-27-2012, 01:31 PM
Your goal is to be able to charge batteries and self run. No reason why a couple more batteries in the system can not be there. If it makes it more efficient than caps then definitely do things this way.

George

Bizzy
04-02-2012, 04:53 PM
Good afternoon
This past weekend I was able to get my test motor to 3100 rpms while my alternator ran at 749 rpms!!!. I am waiting for a new wound field motor with a higher rpm rating to arrive this weekend. After the motor is installed and I run a few tests I hope to be able to run the alternator directly from the main motor for an even longer period of time.

I also hope to down load the alternator video (which is already made)as well as a video of the main motor running the alternator.
Bizzy

Bizzy
04-02-2012, 04:59 PM
Good afternoon again
I should also mention that the alternator started out at 789 rpms and dropped to only 749 which is only a decrease of 40 rpms when the switch and test motor is engaged.
Bizzy

Bizzy
06-24-2012, 02:03 PM
Good morning Everyone
It has been quite a long time since I have posted. No... I was not abducted by aliens nor have I moved to Switzerland yet (we'll have to wait and see what happens in November)

We have been very busy planting our garden and making wine. And my daughter's high school graduation party is today( woo hoo my child support is cut in half:dance: )I have also been busy making a solar food dehydrator for my wife :thumbsup:


I also have some news to report on my Bedini Machine. This morning while doing some testing I was able to have my machine self run (with no outside power source) for almost five hours before it started loosing power slowly. It was very exciting!!
I think the big prblem is that I have a capacitor across the motor that is acting like a snubber and eliminating the back emf from the motor, which I would normally feed into the the battery at the switch. So I now I am working to isolate that capacitor from the flyback diode and the motor. Any suggetions how to do that would be greatly appreciated.:confused:

Thanks and have a great day
Bizzy

shylo
06-24-2012, 09:50 PM
Hi Bizzy,
I read this thread and "electricity's watson machine" thread.
First I would like to congradulate you on your work so far:cheers:
A few questions if you(or anybody else) have time, It was mentioned that to dump charge back to the battery that is running the system it can't be at the same time as drawing power to run the system??
Also your switch Is of great interest ,you are collecting back emf from motor or generator or both???
What exactly is the process that is taking place??
Have you tried to incorporate shorting the coils of your pmg to increase output??
I'm currently shorting the coils on my pmg ,which is driven by a auto rad-fan,but if I can collect the back emf it might be added to the overall output:thinking:
I have a mechanical switch that runs off the dead battery in the "3BGS".This is just random shorting of the coils.
shylo

Bizzy
06-25-2012, 09:39 AM
Hi Bizzy,
I read this thread and "electricity's watson machine" thread.
First I would like to congradulate you on your work so far:cheers:
A few questions if you(or anybody else) have time, It was mentioned that to dump charge back to the battery that is running the system it can't be at the same time as drawing power to run the system??
Also your switch Is of great interest ,you are collecting back emf from motor or generator or both???
What exactly is the process that is taking place??
Have you tried to incorporate shorting the coils of your pmg to increase output??
I'm currently shorting the coils on my pmg ,which is driven by a auto rad-fan,but if I can collect the back emf it might be added to the overall output:thinking:
I have a mechanical switch that runs off the dead battery in the "3BGS".This is just random shorting of the coils.
shylo

Hi shylo
As to your first question you really shouldn't try to power the system at the same time the battery is charged. At that point Lenz's Law takes over and the system slows down. So the idea is to alternate. When the battery is charging it is not powering the motor. When it is powering the motor the battery is not charging similar to the way described on this site

Zero Point Energy - John Bedini Energizers 1 - MDG 2007 (http://tesla3.com/free_websites/zpe_bedini_energizer.html)


As to your other question I am collecting the back emf from the motor. I have tried shorting out the coils but to no success.



Also I think I may have come up with a solution to my question I just posted. The capacitor I mentioned I was having problems with was across the motor in parrallel. The solution I am going to try puts the capacitor in parrallel to the circuit but before the motor and not across it. I will let you know if it works

Thats again for your encouragement and support on my project.


I also hope to have an updated video in a few weeks as well.
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
06-25-2012, 04:31 PM
Hi Bizzy,
I read this thread and "electricity's watson machine" thread.
First I would like to congradulate you on your work so far:cheers:
A few questions if you(or anybody else) have time, It was mentioned that to dump charge back to the battery that is running the system it can't be at the same time as drawing power to run the system??
Also your switch Is of great interest ,you are collecting back emf from motor or generator or both???
What exactly is the process that is taking place??
Have you tried to incorporate shorting the coils of your pmg to increase output??
I'm currently shorting the coils on my pmg ,which is driven by a auto rad-fan,but if I can collect the back emf it might be added to the overall output:thinking:
I have a mechanical switch that runs off the dead battery in the "3BGS".This is just random shorting of the coils.
shylo

Hi Shylo
I apologize I didn't answer all of your questions and it is the perhaps the most important one. "what is exactly taking place?" by this I am guessing you meant what is taking place with the switch...
It is a switch with an independant battery/capacitor and has three positions.

1st postion is when the switch is in contact with the alternator and the switch battery/capaictor is being charged by the alternator. This is also when the back emf is being dumped into the battery/capaitor from the motor for additional charging

2nd postion is when the switch and its battery/capacitor is not in contact with any other component

3rd position is when the switch and its battery/capacitor is in contact with the motor and its capacitor. This is when the motor is pulsed

Recently I have been working on reducing the amount of time the switch stays in the 2nd position without hurting its work at the other too positions. This helped me to improve amperage to the motor. I feel I have acheived the opitmum timing

Let me know if that explains it better and answers your question.
thanks
Bizzy

shylo
06-26-2012, 08:41 AM
Hi Bizzy,
No need to apologize,and thank-you for answering.:)
In the Bendini link there is the diagram of the switch control ,is this the same as what you are using? I noticed in your video #2 that you said you added some form of control to your generator, to work with switching?
Is it an electronic or mechanical switch?
Also in the other thread there was a hand drawn schematic could you re-post it here ,I think it was your switch?
Am fairly new to all this and I have very little electronics skills, but I think this switch is what I'm looking for to make my project work.:thinking:
Thank-you for your time.
shylo

Bizzy
06-26-2012, 09:35 AM
Hi Bizzy,
No need to apologize,and thank-you for answering.:)
In the Bendini link there is the diagram of the switch control ,is this the same as what you are using? I noticed in your video #2 that you said you added some form of control to your generator, to work with switching?
Is it an electronic or mechanical switch?
Also in the other thread there was a hand drawn schematic could you re-post it here ,I think it was your switch?
Am fairly new to all this and I have very little electronics skills, but I think this switch is what I'm looking for to make my project work.:thinking:
Thank-you for your time.
shylo

Hi Shylo
Yes the control I am working on is the switch. It is mechanical and uses magnets to switch on and off. I thought i was actually done and was ready to show it a few months ago when I had a wire fail on the unit so I had to replace that, but in so doing I also made some changes which I think actually prevents future wire fatigue (I hope).

It is in the same place as in the Diagram of Bedini's although the only actual working diagram I saw was of a comutator on the shaft. I tried that breifly but it made so much noice my wife made me take it off (That is the reason why Mr Tesla never had a Mrs Tesla :rofl: ) But yes it is the same place same principle and same function as in Bedini's diagram.

If you look at my videos you will see the trigger disc mounted onto the shaft. At the end of the trigger disc are maget sets that trigger the switch on and off and set intervals. When the magnets pass over the magnet on the switch; the switch is in position #1 and the switch battery/capacitor is charged by the alternator and back emf
When the magnets continue and move away from the switch it allows the switch to fall hence position #2
At which time the switch makes contact with the lower contact and is in position#3 whereas it is powering the motor
The cycle repeats itself twice per revolution however I am still working on adjusting that so that may change.

The schematic i have on the previous thread is an out dated one. I will draw an updated one and post it here. I have made some exciting changes over the summer. Like I mentioned before we have been very busy with our gardens and wine making plus we are getting ready for the midevil faires in our area, but i promise to post that diagram either today or tomorrow.
Bizzy

Bizzy
06-26-2012, 09:37 AM
Hi Shylo
By the way we would enjoy seeing pictures or video of the unit you are building. It may actually help me and others as well. Good luck with it:thumbsup:

Bizzy

Bizzy
06-26-2012, 11:42 AM
Good morning
As promised here is the latest circuit for my transfer switch. Although I am still tweeking it so this may change soon
Let me know what you think. Constructive criticism from people like you who are much more knowledgable is very usefull.
Thanks
Bizzy

shylo
06-27-2012, 12:00 AM
Hi Bizzy,
So are you charging the 24volt cap at 2F ,to 24 volts and dumping into the battery, then switching, letting it recharge ,and then dumping into the motor as a form of pulsed drive? Obiviously the re-charge rate of the cap would be instantanious?
By shorting the coils on your generator (at the right time would increase your out-put)
There is a pic of my switch in the 3BGS thread,it's just the rotor out of an old treadmill motor, but I ground out groves to fill with mar-glass, to create a break.It's strange how the placement of the wires on the rotor, can make bigger spikes than others. I think there is alot of fine tuning that could be done.
shylo

Bizzy
06-27-2012, 12:24 AM
Good evening Everyone.
I had to share this with you. I think I finally have it working!!!
I have to do more testing but I honestly think I have ity working!!!

Tonight after we watered the gardens I went in the basement to tinker and have my tea. I was testing my latest circuit configuration. When I engaged the main motor to be powered solely off of the alternator

I was getting 381 rpms 11.9 volts at the alternator 10.4 volts at the switch and only 6.5 volts at the motor

After tens minutes when I would ususally get even a slight decrease in speed and or power I was now getting 417 rpms 13.6 volts at the alternator 12.3 to 13.4 volts at the switch and 7.7 to 8 volts at the motor.


It is still consistantly running at that speed and voltage for the last two hours. It is too soon to tell but this is very promising and exciting. I may have to make my video sooner than expected to share with everone.
There could still be an unexpected surprise I haven't seen yet but from what I can see now it is running properly and showing no signs of reducing either voltage or rpms....


Thanks to all my freinds here on the forum you have all been hugely supportive, but a special thanks go out to Mark, Jim, Rick, Paul Carroll, Aaron, George and of course John Bedini.

And of course thanks to God Almighty father of Jesus and creator or heaven and earth who makes the wise foolish and foolish wise

Wow in case you can't tell I am excited.


merci vielmals

Bizzy:cheers:

citfta
06-27-2012, 01:51 AM
I am very happy for you Bizzy. :thumbsup: It sounds like you are really close or maybe even there! I know you have worked very hard on this for a long time now so it is wonderful to see it work so well. Please keep us informed as to how long it goes and if you need any help just ask.

Carroll

shylo
06-27-2012, 08:57 AM
:cheers: Looking forward to your next video:thanks:
shylo

Bizzy
06-27-2012, 09:20 AM
Hi Bizzy,
So are you charging the 24volt cap at 2F ,to 24 volts and dumping into the battery, then switching, letting it recharge ,and then dumping into the motor as a form of pulsed drive? Obiviously the re-charge rate of the cap would be instantanious?
By shorting the coils on your generator (at the right time would increase your out-put)
There is a pic of my switch in the 3BGS thread,it's just the rotor out of an old treadmill motor, but I ground out groves to fill with mar-glass, to create a break.It's strange how the placement of the wires on the rotor, can make bigger spikes than others. I think there is alot of fine tuning that could be done.
shylo

Hi shylo
Again I apologigze for not responding last evening when I was on line. I just had to post my findings...
The alternator caps are both rated at 24 volts and are in series which gives me a total voltage capacity of 48. I won't need that size but my alternator can put out 30 volts so I thought I should have the voltage capacity availble if needed. Initially when I start up my machine I let it run upto only 26 volts. Why 26? I dont know it just works:confused:
When the test motor is engaged the voltage at the alternator drops to around 16 ish and slows the alternator to about 500 to 600 rpm.
If you look at my voltage drops while the main motor is running from 13.6 volts at the alternator 12.3 to 13.4 volts at the switch and 7.7 to 8 volts at the motor. you can see there is a gradual decrease in voltage as the power moves alone the machine. Initially I was usuing just capacitors at the switch but I wasn't able to gather all of the back emf and the battery was too slow to keep up with the switch to run the motor which is why I started using the battery/capacitor at the switch. It gives me speed and power at the same time.
I have tried shorting the coils before with no success. And as I continue my experiments I will still try that. I am wondering if my system is to simple for that kind of circuitry.
I was following the 3BGS thread but I got busy with other projects since that is such a popular and large thread could you post a link to this thread. I will still look for your pictures in the meantime.
Finally although I may have honestly built what I set out to build I agree totally there is much fine tuning to do on my machine.
Bizzy

Bizzy
06-27-2012, 09:22 AM
I am very happy for you Bizzy. :thumbsup: It sounds like you are really close or maybe even there! I know you have worked very hard on this for a long time now so it is wonderful to see it work so well. Please keep us informed as to how long it goes and if you need any help just ask.

Carroll

Carroll
Thank you again for all your help and support in this project. Yes I will keep you and everyone informed. And I know I can count on you all for help. Every one here is great.:thumbsup:
Bizzy

Bizzy
06-27-2012, 12:03 PM
Good morning
Here is the updated switch circuit that I was using last night and is still running today.

Before I was having problems with the motor capacitor reducing the back emf going into the battery/capacitor. Which was the question I posted a few days ago.
To solve that I put the ground of the motor capacitor into the flyback diode. I think what this does is isolate that capacitor from the back emf and allows it to continue to the battery/capacitor
Bizzy

wrtner
06-27-2012, 12:53 PM
Thanks to all my freinds here on the forum you have all been hugely supportive, but a special thanks go out to Mark, Jim, Rick, Paul Carroll, Aaron, George and of course John Bedini.

...not to forget Watson, who had us thinking bigger, and, of course, Tesla, whose
fingerprints are on most things.

Bizzy
06-27-2012, 12:59 PM
...and Watson who had us thinking bigger and, of course, Tesla, whose
fingerprints are on most things.

Hi Paul
Them as well of course. :thanks:
Bizzy

shylo
06-28-2012, 12:42 AM
Hi Bizzy,
Can I ask what type of generator your running:notworthy:
Here is how I short the coils, I think I inserted the pic:rofl:
It sometimes goes negative on the wrong short cycle,this can be used but has to have reverse wiring.It has to be able to catch all the available, that is there.
As for the "why 26 volts" does that have to do with how a cap will charge to about 65 percent of it's max ,almost instantaniously, then the rest takes time??

Bizzy
06-28-2012, 08:29 AM
Hi Bizzy,
Can I ask what type of generator your running:notworthy:
Here is how I short the coils, I think I inserted the pic:rofl:
It sometimes goes negative on the wrong short cycle,this can be used but has to have reverse wiring.It has to be able to catch all the available, that is there.
As for the "why 26 volts" does that have to do with how a cap will charge to about 65 percent of it's max ,almost instantaniously, then the rest takes time??

Hi Shylo
The generator is a version of Hugh Piggot's alternator I built myself Hugh Piggott's old home page (http://www.scoraigwind.com/)
I made some improvements to his by using larger gauge wire steel under the coils and only one magnet set This allows the alternator to move much faster and with less drag.
I can see the pic and from what I can see it looks like you are simply touch the outer cover of the generator to short it is that correct? I couldn't do that with mine simply becuase the alternator doesn't have an actual "cover"
The 26 volt is mainly because the alternator when it initially starts can run upto 30 29 28 27 or 26 depending how my starting battery charged over night. (And before anyone asks. The starting battery is used just to start the main motor but is disengaged once the alternator running upto full speed.) So I used 26 volts just becuase it was the lowest voltage the alternator would produce intinally
Bizzy

Bizzy
06-28-2012, 08:34 AM
Good morning everyone,
The motor ran for 36 hours before my wife had me shut it down because of the noise. I am confident this is working :thumbsup:

That was the good news.
The bad news is my company is transfering me to NC next year so I will have to disassemble my machine to transport it down. I plan on doing my video long before I disassemble it. And be assured I will rebuild it and continue my work This is too exciting to get this far then stop.
Bizzy

wrtner
06-28-2012, 02:06 PM
Hi Shylo
The generator is a version of Hugh Piggot's alternator I built myself Hugh Piggott's old home page (http://www.scoraigwind.com/)

Don't forget that a pillar of the Bedini/Watson design is the "energiser"
that Bedini specifies. See my link on page 1. (It is not any old alternator).

Bizzy
06-28-2012, 04:27 PM
Don't forget that a pillar of the Bedini/Watson design is the "energiser"
that Bedini specifies. See my link on page 1. (It is not any old alternator).

Hi Paul
You are right the energizer is vital but the kind is not absolute. I was fortunate to have an efficient alternator design from my windmill experiments
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-01-2012, 03:09 PM
Good morning
There were a couple of minor adjustments that I wanted to test and am glad that I did. I removed the diode going into the switch from alternator, This is from my previous tests but not since I got the machine working. I am glad I did try this becuase it allowed the battery/capacitor to accept the charge from the alternator slightly faster. I will post a new schematic on Monday
I am also pleased to report that finished my video. Unfortunately we are almost at the limit of our data usage. So I can down load the video when our billing cycle for next months starts which should be next weekend.

So far the longest the machine has ran is 36 hours. It that time it has shown no slowing of speed or reduction in volatge output.
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-02-2012, 01:04 PM
Good morning
As promised attached is the updated circuit, which I will be demonstrating on the video. The video will be posted after next weekend.

Some of the new features on this is the elimination of the diode from the alternator to the switch. Also I added another capictor at the motor to make sure I was capturing as much power as i could.


At my wife's request I am currently working on noise reduction :wall:
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-02-2012, 04:22 PM
Good afternoon
I wanted to post a better explination of the pulses my machine is getting. This should help you better understand my machine once I get the video posted.
The upper part of the attachment is a discription of a standard pulse in a Bedini /Watson machine. It goes on and off once per revolution.

The bottom part of the attachment shows the pulse pattern on my machine.
First because of the motor capacitors the motor itself is constantly under power. Even though it may only be a few volts and a few amps it is under some kind of power. Twice per revolution it is pulsed by the switch which acts like the pulse of a regular Bedini/Watson machine. However since the motor continually has power in my machine the pulses do not need to be that strong to maintain an effective speed. As I mentioned before and will show in my video I am only pulsing approximately 6 to 7 volts into my motor to maintain speed, which produces 13 volts.
The frequency of the pulses (two pulses versus one) helps make up for the reduced amperage
Bizzy

wrtner
07-02-2012, 05:43 PM
I am only pulsing approximately 6 to 7 volts into my motor to maintain speed, which produces 13 volts.

Don't forget that a voltage on open circuit does not indicate power.

You need to connect a load on to the 13 volt output and measure
the current.

ewizard
07-02-2012, 05:55 PM
Congrat's Bizzy! I'm looking forward to the video. I've got a suggestion for sound reduction. You may be amazed at how much noise reduction you can get from a simple plywood enclosure or cover that has bare faced insulation stapled to the inside of it. A regular roll of R-11 can usually be had for less than $10 and just put the insulation side facing your motor. A simple open top box that you could set down over everything when running will make a huge difference.

(just checked Home Depot for thicker R19: Owens Corning EcoTouch R-19 Unfaced 6-1/4 in. x 15 in. x 39.2 ft. Continuous Roll Insulation
Model # RU40 Store SKU # 543558 )

$9.98 /RL-Roll

:thumbsup:

Bizzy
07-02-2012, 06:10 PM
Don't forget that a voltage on open circuit does not indicate power.

You need to connect a load on to the 13 volt output and measure
the current.

Hi Paul
You are exactly right. In fact I think on an older post I mentioned something mmbrown msaid 'that running a motor requires current more than voltage'. I agree completely.

In previous videos I did measure the current coming out of the alternator under load. When I tested the current from my switch on the test motor it was fluxuating between 3 and 6 amps this is by allowing the system to pulse twice per revolution. Previously when I was working with just once pulse per revolution I was only getting 1 to 3 amps. Which is what I mentioned on my previous post that the more frequent pulsing helps maintain the speed by helping to maintain higher amperage.

I did not measure current in this video simply because I didn't have enough multimeters. In this video i simply wanted to show my motor working as it was designed and to show the voltage production and voltage usage of my machine. I did order a fourth meter and perhaps on future videos I will be able to show current measurements as well.

I do agree completely that amperage is more important, but for the sake of this demonstration I decided to use voltage as my standard measure to show the work that was being done. I simply wanted to show voltage at three points , at the alternator, at the switch and at the motor.
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-02-2012, 06:14 PM
Congrat's Bizzy! I'm looking forward to the video. I've got a suggestion for sound reduction. You may be amazed at how much noise reduction you can get from a simple plywood enclosure or cover that has bare faced insulation stapled to the inside of it. A regular roll of R-11 can usually be had for less than $10 and just put the insulation side facing your motor. A simple open top box that you could set down over everything when running will make a huge difference.

(just checked Home Depot for thicker R19: Owens Corning EcoTouch R-19 Unfaced 6-1/4 in. x 15 in. x 39.2 ft. Continuous Roll Insulation
Model # RU40 Store SKU # 543558 )

$9.98 /RL-Roll

:thumbsup:

Hi ewizard,
I was thinking about a wooden enclosure too but was hesitating to start it becuase I was uncertain it would work. This is the encouragement I needed to go ahead with it. In fact I am working on a solar food dehydrator for my wife as well and lots of left over plywood shheting I can use.
I looked over the video again this morning and think it shows the machine working very well. i am very excited to show everyone
Thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-06-2012, 06:36 PM
Hi Ewizard
Since it has been too hot to work out side up here( I can't wait for winter again) I have been working on insulating the machine for sound. There are two areas which make the most noice the switch itself and the shaft assembly going back to the motor.. I tried breifly to insulatet just those two areas with only little success. Personally I thought it did a good job at dampening the noise, however my wife had a different opinion.... So now I will have to try and cover the whole unit for sound. it can be done but will require lots more material. :wall:
so far the longest i have run the unit continuously was 52 hours before i had to shut it off.:dance:
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-06-2012, 06:40 PM
One other thing I forgot to mention but thought was important. After running for 52 hours continually the motor temperature only rose five degress above room temperature. Before if i would have run the motor for only an hour it would have been too hot to even touch.
Bizzy

ewizard
07-06-2012, 08:11 PM
I'd look for scrap plywood at construction sites - usually easy to find some when house or biz is being built. Or the pressed fiber board. It can be done on the cheap.

Bizzy
07-07-2012, 09:41 AM
I'd look for scrap plywood at construction sites - usually easy to find some when house or biz is being built. Or the pressed fiber board. It can be done on the cheap.

Hi Ewizard
It is not so much the money. I have enough spare plywood around the house and can afford more if I need it. The problem is time.
I would rather be doing additional testing on the machine. I am being transfered next year so I am trying to do as much work on the machine before I tear in down and move it then rebuild it.
Bizzy

shylo
07-07-2012, 10:28 AM
Hi Bizzy , looking forward to your videoYou could get a piece of the blue styrofoam board easy to cut ,just put it together by pushing nails through it. From the look of your set-up in the video 2 sheets would probably do to build a box and set down over top of the whole thing.That would cut down the noise better than just plywood.
Or just get the wife some ear plugs:rofl:
Would really like to see some detail on the mechanical aspect of how you use your rotor to control switching:confused:
Thanks shylo.

wrtner
07-07-2012, 02:27 PM
I decided to use voltage as my standard measure to show the work that was being done.

The voltage does not show the work being done.

It shows the pressure at which the current would flow out and do work if
you connect a circuit on to it.

By measuring the current in that circuit you would get the rate at which work
is being done, i.e. the power.


Also, on the subject of noise, it is very imprtant to avoid any holes.
An architect told me that an oak door is a good noise break. Put a
keyhole in it and it is often ruined.

But there is nothing to beat masonry. If you are really annoyed, build
it a little brick enclosure, not forgetting the base and ceiling and making
sure that you have no holes or air gaps.

ewizard
07-07-2012, 06:36 PM
Hi Ewizard
It is not so much the money. I have enough spare plywood around the house and can afford more if I need it. The problem is time.
I would rather be doing additional testing on the machine. I am being transfered next year so I am trying to do as much work on the machine before I tear in down and move it then rebuild it.
Bizzy

I understand but we don't want to see the whole project get shut down prematurely by Why Isn'tit Free Energy - W.I.F.E for short ;)

Maybe just find a big Washer, Dryer, Oven or referigerator box behind at an appliance store and tack some insulation in it?

Bizzy
07-08-2012, 08:25 PM
Good afternoon
Here is the link to my you tube video as promised
Let me know what you think
thanks
Bizzy


Bedini Machine aka Watson Machne - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdiK8sb81XU&feature=plcp)

shylo
07-08-2012, 10:08 PM
I think it's fantastic:cheers:
Hi Bizzy, you said in the clip that the battery was not" fast enough to keep up", so you put a cap parallel to it?:thinking:
I never thought of this, I've been trying to catch the spikes from shorting coils, but I am only getting some of the spike stored , the rest is going to waste.:(
I hope it works for you:cheers:
shylo

Bizzy
07-09-2012, 09:27 AM
I understand but we don't want to see the whole project get shut down prematurely by Why Isn'tit Free Energy - W.I.F.E for short ;)

Maybe just find a big Washer, Dryer, Oven or referigerator box behind at an appliance store and tack some insulation in it?

Hi ewizard

:rofl: yes i get why isn't free energy yet all the time
I thought about the washer box before but the whole work area is on a 4by8 sheet on ply plywood and am uncertain I can find one that big. What I am doing now is put another 4X8 sheet of ply wood on wheels so it sits vertically with insulation on the side. This way I can wheel it aside when I need to get into the machine to check it out.
IF we move for this transfer I told my wife besides a place to make wine one thing our new house MUST have is a shed away from the house so I can work on my experiments wifey was very happy so was i :thumbsup:
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-09-2012, 09:30 AM
I think it's fantastic:cheers:
Hi Bizzy, you said in the clip that the battery was not" fast enough to keep up", so you put a cap parallel to it?:thinking:
I never thought of this, I've been trying to catch the spikes from shorting coils, but I am only getting some of the spike stored , the rest is going to waste.:(
I hope it works for you:cheers:
shylo

Hi Shylo
Thanks

Yes the cap battery combination in parrallel works great it combines the speed of the capacitor and the charge of the battery Thatcould be the answer you are looking for in your experiment. Just be sure the capacitor is big enough to handle the electricty you are using
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-09-2012, 09:49 AM
The voltage does not show the work being done.

It shows the pressure at which the current would flow out and do work if
you connect a circuit on to it.

By measuring the current in that circuit you would get the rate at which work
is being done, i.e. the power.


Also, on the subject of noise, it is very imprtant to avoid any holes.
An architect told me that an oak door is a good noise break. Put a
keyhole in it and it is often ruined.

But there is nothing to beat masonry. If you are really annoyed, build
it a little brick enclosure, not forgetting the base and ceiling and making
sure that you have no holes or air gaps.

Hi Paul
I understand perfectly about the amperage. as i said i only used the voltage for the demonstration. I have tested the amperage and it is 5-6 at the alternator and at the motor. the problem I had with demonstrating the amperage production is that when the switch is turned on the power coming out of the alternator is not under load (I have tested the amperage under load from the alternator with varying speeds which is how I know the output amperage.
Naturally at the motor side of the machine there is load so i could have shown amperage. But in this case I wanted to compare apples with apples or in this case volts with volts. The problem is the switch isolates the alternator from the motor so while it is running there is no direct load on the alterntor to show the amperage before the switch at the alternator only on the motor side of the machine.
I finally got another multi meter and if I have time I can video the machine with a multimeter measuring amps but it would only be at the point of the motor
As far as concrete I agree that would be best unfortunately my experiments are done in my basement and my wife would have a fit if I built a cement block wall in the basement. She already thinks I use too much cement and stone in things I build(part of my swiss heritage :rofl: )
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-10-2012, 12:22 PM
Good morning
I think that I have finally made a barrier that will arrest the sound enough for my wife to accept for long periods of time. :sshh:

So tonight I am going to turn it on and just let it run
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-19-2012, 04:10 PM
Hello everyone,
I wanted to give everyone an up date.
the good news was that my machine has ran non stop for 9 days with no sign of slowing or lose of power. This has been a very exciting run :thumbsup:
The bad news is that I need to shut it down again because we are packing up our house so that we can move becasue my job is being transfered. :(
Once we get settled into our new house I will begin to rebuild the machine and continue some other tests I have in mind.
Take care
Bizzy

Farmhand
07-23-2012, 06:18 AM
Hi Bizzy, When you do set back up, you might like to try this if you haven't
already tried it. The change is just the two diodes between the battery and cap
and the motor drawing from the cap directly. The result should be that the
capacitor can fluctuate above and below the battery voltage for the amount of
the diode's voltage drop. So for instance if the diodes had a voltage drop of 0.5
volts and the battery was at 12.5 volts the cap could go from 12 to 13 volts
without really affecting the battery. If the cap is big enough then that might be
enough energy to run the machine. 13 volts across a 30000uF capacitor is 2.535 joules
and 12 volts in the same cap is 2.16 joules so there is 0.375 joules to play with
without charging-discharging the battery. I think the principal can be used
by different modes with voltage drop devices of some other nature maybe as
well. :) It would be better if the cap didn't go below the battery voltage, but
I can't think of any way to do away with that left diode, maybe two diodes in
series to the battery from the cap would help.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd168/Toey1/Bizzzysmachinemod001.jpg

I think I copied the part of your circuit correctly leaving out the alternator
rectifiers. If not I apologize.

Cheers

Bizzy
07-23-2012, 11:40 AM
Hi Bizzy, When you do set back up, you might like to try this if you haven't
already tried it. The change is just the two diodes between the battery and cap
and the motor drawing from the cap directly. The result should be that the
capacitor can fluctuate above and below the battery voltage for the amount of
the diode's voltage drop. So for instance if the diodes had a voltage drop of 0.5
volts and the battery was at 12.5 volts the cap could go from 12 to 13 volts
without really affecting the battery. If the cap is big enough then that might be
enough energy to run the machine. 13 volts across a 30000uF capacitor is 2.535 joules
and 12 volts in the same cap is 2.16 joules so there is 0.375 joules to play with
without charging-discharging the battery. I think the principal can be used
by different modes with voltage drop devices of some other nature maybe as
well. :) It would be better if the cap didn't go below the battery voltage, but
I can't think of any way to do away with that left diode, maybe two diodes in
series to the battery from the cap would help.

http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd168/Toey1/Bizzzysmachinemod001.jpg

I think I copied the part of your circuit correctly leaving out the alternator
rectifiers. If not I apologize.

Cheers

Hi farmhand
I saw the schematic you drew earlier but don't see it now. Regardless. yes you have the right idea about the switch and drew it correctly:thumbsup:
I have been thinking about doing something similar to what you described but wasn't certain if it would make a differance BUT in reading over your explination I think that has real merit. I will definately try this once I get set back up again in North Carolina.
I also like the simpilcity of the way you arranged the diodes. Previosuly when i was thinking about the arrangement I was over thinking the whole idea and was actually thinking about retooling the switch itself. I will definately report back on this one thanks
Bizzy

Bizzy
07-25-2012, 11:37 AM
Good morning everyone,
As most of you know it has taken me several years to be able to build my machine to where it is(or was) now. But it has taken just a few days to take it apart and start to box it for shipping. However in a way i am glad i did because i discovered some things I didn't notice before. The biggest problem I found was the steel shaft.
Originally the 5/8 inch steel shaft had a 1/4 inch hole so I could connect it to the motor coupling. I never had any reason to check it before since it worked well once I built it. However in the course of the few years the hole was "pounded" wider by the bolt holding it in place. There was only a 1/8 inch peice of steel on either side of the shaft. I speculate that within another few weeks of running it would had broken off.
Although I have started and stopped it probably hundreds of times over the past couple of years I speculate that the actual damage to the shaft happened when the machine actually started running properly. Which means it was pulsed twice per revolution at 5oo+ RPM.
So I will have to try and re-enforce that when I rebuild the machine.
Bizzy

wrtner
07-25-2012, 02:44 PM
However in the course of the few years the hole was "pounded"
wider by the bolt holding it in place.


Hold on to your horses.

Don't throw the old shaft out. As I understand from you, the linkage
widened so that there was a lot of slack in the coupling. i.e. every
pulse, there was a bang as the slack was taken up.

Check out the Chas Campbell system. Here, you have a motor driving
an alternator using a DELIBERATELY slack pulley belt. It is the banging
about which creates, God knows how, the excess energy.

page 4
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter4.pdf

Bizzy
07-25-2012, 04:52 PM
Hold on to your horses.

Don't throw the old shaft out. As I understand from you, the linkage
widened so that there was a lot of slack in the coupling. i.e. every
pulse, there was a bang as the slack was taken up.

Check out the Chas Campbell system. Here, you have a motor driving
an alternator using a DELIBERATELY slack pulley belt. It is the banging
about which creates, God knows how, the excess energy.

page 4
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter4.pdf

Hi Paul
Yes you are exactly right :thumbsup: I think the "banging" at each pulse does help creat energy. At the begining of that same chapter you mentioned by Patrick kelly. It goes into better detail of why that is the case. So I won't bore anyone with my feeble attempt to do so.
That is why I used the shaft couplings that i did as described in the attached document
If you look at the side view you will see the outter coupling fits over the inner coupling with bolts holding them in place to the respective shafts.
the other part of the diagram shows the same coupling assembly but as if you were looking down the shaft. As you can see there is quite a bit of play between the inner and outer coupling so i get that "banging" like Chas Campbell got. In my case I was getting the impact from that pulse twice per revolution. The problem that I was having was with the bolt at the outter coupling as it held the coupling to the shaft to the alternator. The coupling itself was fine but the hole in the shaft is what was ripped open wider. Strangely enough the motor shaft was uneffected. But the alternator shaft may need more work

Bizzy

Bizzy
08-09-2012, 10:38 AM
Good morning
My wife and I visited the city down south where we are to be transfered and liked it. We even have a great deal of our things put away and threw out literally a TON of old stuff we had squirreled away for 19 years and would probably never use. We actually found the perfect house for us BUT... my company came back to me and said the money to transfer us won't be available until until next year :(


Like many of you I am constantly getting ideas in my head and in particular about my machine. So to that end I decided to rebuild my machine on a trailer so that I can work on it now and just move it whenever they decide the time is right.
I simply need to get a hitch on my truck next week so I can get my trailer home from my camp.
Because I have already built it once before rebuilding should hopefully be easier. I also hope to post more pictures of the construction.
Have a great day
Bizzy

wrtner
08-09-2012, 02:59 PM
I also hope to post more pictures of the construction.

It is good that the move is going well.

What would be great would be a picture of the components and
a picture of them temporarily strung together just for the photgraph.
I still can't get a handle from your video on your gear.
Paul-R

Bizzy
08-13-2012, 11:40 AM
It is good that the move is going well.

What would be great would be a picture of the components and
a picture of them temporarily strung together just for the photgraph.
I still can't get a handle from your video on your gear.
Paul-R
Good morning
This past weekend I started rebuilding my machine in the garage. I am using a smaller more compact table so i can just load it onto a trailer and take it to North Carolina when we move.
This past weekend I got the shaft bearings and motor installed as well as the rotor and alternator. I need to make some tests in case I need to adjust anything before I install the switch.
I have been taking a great many pictures of the unit as I am building. I hope to post some later this week.
Bizzy

Bizzy
08-15-2012, 11:50 AM
Good morning
Since I have been rebuilding my machine I have noticed some fatigue on various parts which I hadn't noticed before. Sometimes it just requires a slight adjustment here or there. However last night while I was tinkering I noticed a problem which has cropped up repeatedly.
To hold my trigger magnets in place on the trigger wheel I have been using zinc flashing. I tried using steel at first but found the steel interfers with the magnetic flux too much and I was getting misfires on my switch. As a result I used the zinc because it is non ferris and isn't attracted to magnets. And yes i use the handy man's secrect weapon to hold the magnets in place :rofl:

My problem is that the zinc is not stiff enough and bends after a while. Last night I noticed some of the magnets were ready to fly off again so I had to retape them. I either need to find a better method to hold the magnets in place that will stiffen the zinc or i need to find a stiffer metal that isn't attracted to magnets. I will hoepfully post a pic of the assembly to give you a better dea of what I am talking about , but any suggetsions you could give me in the mean time would be greatly aprreciated.
merci vielmals
Bizzy

wrtner
08-15-2012, 03:43 PM
I either need to find a better method to hold the magnets in place that will stiffen the zinc or i need to find a stiffer metal that isn't attracted to magnets.

I cannot visualise the situation but a heavy alumium piece might do,
possibly cut from the side of a scrapped aluminium saucepan hammered
into shape.

It is amazing how many things get built with a hard wood. A section from
an old scrapped bannister rail is excellent.

Bizzy
08-16-2012, 04:33 PM
Hallo Paul
I had thought about using aluminum before. However it would have to be THICK so it wouldn't bend. But previously when I would bend thicker aluminum it would crack at the seem. I have thought about heating it at the bending point but never had a chance to try. Perhaps this would be a good a time as any to try.
Thanks:thumbsup:
Bizzy

Bizzy
08-20-2012, 11:28 AM
I cannot visualise the situation but a heavy alumium piece might do,
possibly cut from the side of a scrapped aluminium saucepan hammered
into shape.

It is amazing how many things get built with a hard wood. A section from
an old scrapped bannister rail is excellent.

Hi Paul
I wanted to give you and everyone following my work an update. I took your advise and found some heavy aluminum sheets and cut them to size. It was a bugger to cut them becau it was too thick to use sheers and so I had to use a fine hacksaw, which took three hours for each magnet mount. BUT they work fantastic...Thanks for the advise paul :thumbsup: sometimes we just need a little prodding to do something we already know.

I also rebuilt the trigger arm on the switch. I added some lead weight inside so that it will react faster and hopefully increase my amperage going into the motor.

I apologize for not posting pictures yet. We have been having problems with our camera and may need to get a new one when we get paid next week. i will keep everyone posted.
Bizzy

wrtner
08-20-2012, 02:25 PM
... so I had to use a fine hacksaw...

I wonder if the blade is worn out. I use a standard hacksaw blade
for mild steel and it would get through an aluminium saucepan
in no time at all.

Angle grinders are good but aluminium is soft and can clog up
the disc.

Bizzy
08-20-2012, 02:40 PM
I wonder if the blade is worn out. I use a standard hacksaw blade
for mild steel and it would get through an aluminium saucepan
in no time at all.

Angle grinders are good but aluminium is soft and can clog up
the disc.

Hi Paul,
The alunimum was 1/8" thick and had to be cut in a circular pattern which is why I had to use a fine hacksaw blade. It was a new blade...I also had to cut notches along one side so i could bend it easliy after I heated it.
Bizzy

Bizzy
08-21-2012, 04:45 PM
Good afternoon
As you may have read from my previous posts, one of the problems i was having was that it was too loud for my wifey (Why Isn't it Free Energy Yet I love that ewizard LOL) while i was running it in the basement.

However Since I tore it down in preperation to move and now rebuilding it so I can trailer it south it is in the garage. Well i am pleased to report that she cannot hear it running from inside the house. Several times while I was running it and asked if she heard anything and she said no. That means that when I finally get it rebuilt I should be able to run it for much longer with no complaining :dance: Woohoo

Although once she did come out in the garage while it was running and said it was too loud, so I started talking to her in German and she just sighed and went back int the house. (she doesn't speak German Swiss German or Latin YET but I am trying to teach her) :cheers:


I have a few more weeks worth of work and maybe a few more in testing then I hope to post a new video of the rebuilt machine also showing the amperage going into the motor.
Bizzy

Bizzy
08-22-2012, 09:50 AM
Good morning everyone,
As always I was doing some lite reading and was looking over John Bedini's work and noticed two things which are germane to my work so I thought I would through it out here and see if you could help answer it....

BEDINI'S FREE ENERGY GENERATOR (http://www.icehouse.net/john1/foreward.html)

In the first two diagrams on this page can anyone tell me why John is switching both the positve and negative lines between the motor and the alternator??? Is that better than swicthing just one line?
And secondly
in the second diagram he uses a 555 ciruit to switch but he shows two arrows going back and forth between the motor and the alternator does anyone know how he actually has those two hooked up or how is actually switching back and forth?

Thanks
Bizzy

citfta
08-22-2012, 10:59 AM
Hi Bizzy,

I think John is switching both sides just to be sure he has total isolation between his motor and energizer when charging the battery and when powering the motor. The second drawing is showing the same thing. The arrows on the right are the double pole double throw contacts of the relay which is being controlled by the 555. The arrows represent the movable contact arm and the dots are the fixed contacts. I am guessing total isolation is not really necessary because of the good results you have gotten with only switching one side.

C Ya later,
Carroll

Bizzy
08-22-2012, 12:10 PM
Hi Bizzy,

I think John is switching both sides just to be sure he has total isolation between his motor and energizer when charging the battery and when powering the motor. The second drawing is showing the same thing. The arrows on the right are the double pole double throw contacts of the relay which is being controlled by the 555. The arrows represent the movable contact arm and the dots are the fixed contacts. I am guessing total isolation is not really necessary because of the good results you have gotten with only switching one side.

C Ya later,
Carroll

Hi Carroll
I thought the switching of both negative and positive lines may be something like that. i honestly was thinking of doing something like that as well if I had a connectiveity problem. I also was considering switching my lines after the motor on the negative side like you showed me to do with mosfets :thumbsup:

I am still a little confused on the movable arrows how the lines would be connected.

Also we are still on a holding pattern on when we are supposed to be moving down south.

Bizzy

wrtner
08-22-2012, 02:59 PM
Hi Bizzy,

I think John is switching both sides just to be sure he has total isolation between his motor and energizer when charging the battery and when powering the motor.

It may be an issue that the electricity coming off the "energiser" may be
cold electrcity whereas that going to the motor is regular stuff.

Bizzy
08-22-2012, 04:21 PM
It may be an issue that the electricity coming off the "energiser" may be
cold electrcity whereas that going to the motor is regular stuff.

Grüeßzei Paul,
That may be the case here although that opens another can of worms...

can anyone tell me the differance between "cold electricity" and "regular electricity"?


...or how can I test for the differance?
Merci vielmals
Bizzy

wrtner
08-22-2012, 09:21 PM
Grüeßzei Paul,
That may be the case here although that opens another can of worms...

can anyone tell me the differance between "cold electricity" and "regular electricity"?


...or how can I test for the differance?
Merci vielmals
Bizzy

...with Peter Lindemann around, who would dare?

Peter: Would you be willing to expound - or give us a link?

Paul-R.



p.s. Don't forget, Bizzy, that John Bedini calls it an energiser because
it is not an alternator as such. It is a different beast.

Bizzy
08-23-2012, 09:35 AM
...


p.s. Don't forget, Bizzy, that John Bedini calls it an energiser because
it is not an alternator as such. It is a different beast.

Hi Paul
Yes I remember John calls it an "energizer" I still call it an alternator only because of the days when I was still building windmills.
Bizzy

hello_all
08-24-2012, 12:13 AM
bizzy,

i get so confused with the energy from vacuum concept, but after watching your video , i am getting somewhat moved to this which i saw long time ago..
what do you think about this fuelless machine.. do you think that this can produce 200-900 watts of excess power ??


he says this was built in 5 yrs timeframe off and on by 50 people , with 2 gals .. it took 1and 1/2 year just to be overunity..

[www.witts.ws] Self-Running 40kW (40,000 Watt) Fuelless Generator (Full Version) - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ztt3R4Bu_0)


he calls the output coils the oscillating (vibrating coils ) , there is capacitor bank and blue box (must be rectifier or switching circuit) and another blue box with electronics..

regds


what do you think ..

Bizzy
08-26-2012, 10:54 AM
bizzy,

i get so confused with the energy from vacuum concept, but after watching your video , i am getting somewhat moved to this which i saw long time ago..
what do you think about this fuelless machine.. do you think that this can produce 200-900 watts of excess power ??


he says this was built in 5 yrs timeframe off and on by 50 people , with 2 gals .. it took 1and 1/2 year just to be overunity..

[www.witts.ws] Self-Running 40kW (40,000 Watt) Fuelless Generator (Full Version) - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Ztt3R4Bu_0)


he calls the output coils the oscillating (vibrating coils ) , there is capacitor bank and blue box (must be rectifier or switching circuit) and another blue box with electronics..

regds


what do you think ..

Hi hello_all
I am with you the "vacuum concept" confuses me too. In fact a great deal of the threads on the forum are way over my head. Don't get me wrong I admire John Bedini and Ufopolitics just to name a few. And I greatly admire thier work, but some of thier ideas and explinations are way out of my league and difficult to understand. I just work with what I know and understand and trust that if I see something happen and study it that it works. I would like to know much of the theory but if i dont understand it completely I don't let it stop me. So my advice to you and everyone is don't get bogged down in the deeper theory unless that is what you want.

That being said I watched the video... it is impressive. I am no expert on videos or macines such as this so I can only take it at face value that it works. Perhaps someone out there has actually seen it and can verify or deny such as they did with Chaz Campbell. I do however fully understand the need for secercy on some of the parts in the box. Our own Aaron had problems with someone stealing his idea then turning it back on in him. So caution in revealing one's work is not only understood but recommended.

I do think the machine in the video is possible, it looks real and until someone who has seen it or can prove otherwise I can say only that it works...The same goes for my machine. I know it works I have shown it, BUT until someone verifies it people can and have said that it is fake and that is ok. I understand and appreciate that. As I stated there are a couple a people whom I know from the forum, whom I trust and would eagerly show my work (once we move and get the machine set up again down there)
I am glad that my work has encouraged you to explore such a machine. Bizzy

wrtner
08-26-2012, 11:25 AM
Hi hello_all

I do think the machine in the video is possible

I wouldn't waste time with the witts people. I've not heard
anyone with a good word to say about them.

freepenguin
08-27-2012, 03:20 AM
Great work.

I think your device will run for months maybe a year if you find the right harmonic frequency between the alternator and motor till mechanical failure. :rolleyes: It should be a good square sine wave. In addition, your shaft(?) is shaking too much which increases friction and reduces the inertia.

SkyWatcher
08-27-2012, 04:18 AM
Hi folks, Hi bizzy, believe it or not, this, "So caution in revealing one's work is not only understood but recommended," way of thinking is far more important than any technology will ever be.
Fear, was not intended to be used as a strategy for life, its only real purpose, is to maintain the physical body from immediate threats, fight or flight.
The world i see generally, is structured upon this strategy of fear and does not work for the good of all.
It is always a choice, between fear or love.
Myself, I would recommend the path of love, it's much funner and more fruitful. Share all ya got, cause ya can't take it with ya.
Hope your device comes along well.
peace love light
tyson:sun: :rainbow: :heartbeat:

Bizzy
08-27-2012, 08:59 AM
I wouldn't waste time with the witts people. I've not heard
anyone with a good word to say about them.

Hi Paul
As always thank you for your opinion
:thumbsup:
Bizzy

Bizzy
08-27-2012, 09:15 AM
Great work.

I think your device will run for months maybe a year if you find the right harmonic frequency between the alternator and motor till mechanical failure. :rolleyes: It should be a good square sine wave. In addition, your shaft(?) is shaking too much which increases friction and reduces the inertia.

Hi Freepenguin
I think that I have found that frequency betwen the motor and alternator/energizer. I agree the machine should continue to run until some techincal failure, Since I have torn it down and been rebuilding it I have found a great many of those failures. Which is why I have been doing some extra tests to try and strengthen those parts so it can run longer before part failure.


Unfortunately I don't have any equipment to measure the sine wave. But I do know how the machine is running. On post 57 I posted a drawing of what I thought it may look like.
Previous machines like this would shut off power completely then pulse power back into it. Intially I tried that but was getting much lower speeds ...when I added the capacitor at the motor I gained speed. The reason for this I beleive is that...when the switch sends power into motor it is also storing power in the capactor. so that when the switch disengages from motor the motor capacitor continues to send the power it has stored into the motor and allows it to continue running. When the switch cycles through to the next phase it pulses the motor again and charges the motor capicitor...so basically instead of shutting off power then pulsing power into the motor(like previous designs) my circuit allows for continual power to the motor and still pulses power into it.
I am not adding any more power to the motor I am just timing it differently than Bedini or Watson did. That is how I am figuring the shape and frequency of my power wave

As far as the shaft yes I know it is wobbly. There is nothing at the upper end to stablize it so it goes where it wants. It is my goal to show you additional alternators along that shaft producing excess power
Bizzy

Bizzy
08-27-2012, 11:36 AM
Hi folks, Hi bizzy, believe it or not, this, "So caution in revealing one's work is not only understood but recommended," way of thinking is far more important than any technology will ever be.
Fear, was not intended to be used as a strategy for life, its only real purpose, is to maintain the physical body from immediate threats, fight or flight.
The world i see generally, is structured upon this strategy of fear and does not work for the good of all.
It is always a choice, between fear or love.
Myself, I would recommend the path of love, it's much funner and more fruitful. Share all ya got, cause ya can't take it with ya.
Hope your device comes along well.
peace love light
tyson:sun: :rainbow: :heartbeat:

Hi Tyson
In my heart I know you are correct when you say that fear was not intended to be used as a life stratgy. But it is useful in the short run to survive, which is where i am at now.

So if my explination to hello_all came out otherwise I apologize. I agree 110% that love is more important than fear. Actually love is more important than anything....And I don't plan on taking my work with me when I go. (of course anyone who reads my notes will have to be able to read German, Swiss german, Englisch and Latin :rofl: )
Bizzy

leely1
08-28-2012, 09:51 AM
Hi Bizzy, u've done a good job. Have u tried connecting a load to it while leaving the battery connected. Maybe a light bulb.

Bizzy
08-28-2012, 11:50 AM
Hi Bizzy, u've done a good job. Have u tried connecting a load to it while leaving the battery connected. Maybe a light bulb.

Hi leely1
Thank you for your compliment. No I haven't shown that yet. The next video i want to do will show the amperage going into the motor. The video after that will show the machine doing work such as light a light bulb etc...so stay tuned :)


Hi Paul
A few posts back you asked about extra weight on the flywheel. I said that I would try that...well last night I did. The results were very exciting. If you look at my last video you will see a sharp drop in alternator speed once I engage the switch and disconnect the start battery. By adding the flywheel weight I was able to sustain the speed much better. I wasn't able to maintain the intial speed completely but definately better. I need to explore that more because i think it will help more in future tests as well...the down side is that the extra weight caused the shaft coupling to rip threw the main shaft. So I need to re-enforce the shaft which I thought i might have to any way.

But yes the added fly wheel weight was a tremendous help in maintaining shaft speed while it was pulsing
vielen Dank
Bizzy

wrtner
08-28-2012, 03:28 PM
A few posts back you asked about extra weight on the flywheel. I said that I would try that...well last night I did. The results were very exciting.

A heavy flywheel is central to the Bedini/Watson device. Whether it
is a device to keep the motor pulse out of step with the energiser
pulse or whether it owes more to Chas Campbell and his flywheels
with slack belts, I don't know.

Do you have a dual beam oscilloscope? It would be good to see
the two pulses. (Hantek do USB devices fairly cheaply). Unless,
of course, you can get into a conversation with a Physics teacher
at the local school who might visit with one.

Bizzy
08-28-2012, 04:25 PM
A heavy flywheel is central to the Bedini/Watson device. Whether it
is a device to keep the motor pulse out of step with the energiser
pulse or whether it owes more to Chas Campbell and his flywheels
with slack belts, I don't know.

Do you have a dual beam oscilloscope? It would be good to see
the two pulses. (Hantek do USB devices fairly cheaply). Unless,
of course, you can get into a conversation with a Physics teacher
at the local school who might visit with one.

Hi Paul
My uneduated guess as to why the flywheel is importnat to such a devise is like a freight train. Once you get a freight train moving to full speed it takes a longer time for it to stop than a just a smaller switch train. this is becuase you are trying to stop more weight in the freight train.
So because it is more difficult to stop because of the weight it requires less power to keep it moving once it reaches its maximum speed.
Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope and when my son mentioned my machine to his science professor he looked at my son like he ad two heads. So for now I will have to settle for using just my multi meters...

As to your question a few posts ago. Once I rebuild my shaft after last night and runa few more tests i plan on making another video to show the amperage going into the motor

Thanks
Bizzy

SkyWatcher
08-28-2012, 05:45 PM
Hi folks, Hi bizzy, or the flywheel could have something to do with these experiments.
The matter has long since left the realm of common sense as the British scientist Harold Aspden has demonstrated with
laboratory measurements, the presence of an "unknown" field which acts like an incompressible gas. What his work has
demonstrated is now known as "the Aspden Effect" and the experimental results are as follows:
Harold was running tests not related to this subject. He started an electric motor which had a rotor mass of 800 grams
and recorded the fact that it took an energy input of 300 joules to bring it up to its running speed of 3,250 revolutions per
minute when it was driving no load.
The rotor having a mass of 800 grams and spinning at that speed, its kinetic energy together with that of the drive motor
is no more than 15 joules, contrasting with the excessive energy of 300 joules needed to get it rotating at that speed. If
the motor is left running for five minutes or more, and then switched off, it comes to rest after a few seconds. But, the
motor can then be started again (in the same or opposite direction) and brought up to speed with only 30 joules
provided that the time lapse between stopping and restarting is no more than a minute or so. If there is a delay of
several minutes, then an energy input of 300 joules is needed to get the rotor spinning again.
This is not a transient heating phenomenon. At all times the bearing housings feel cool and any heating in the drive
motor would imply an increase of resistance and a build-up of power to a higher steady state condition. The
experimental evidence is that there is something unseen, which is put into motion by the machine rotor. That
“something” has an effective mass density 20 times that of the rotor, but it is something that can move independently and
take several minutes to decay, while the motor comes to rest in a few seconds.
Two machines of different rotor size and composition reveal the phenomenon and tests indicate variations with time of
day and compass orientation of the spin axis. One machine, the one incorporating weaker magnets, showed evidence of
gaining strength magnetically during the tests which were repeated over a period of several days. This clearly shows
that there is an unseen medium which interacts with everyday objects and actions.
peace love light
tyson:sun:

Bizzy
08-29-2012, 11:33 AM
Hi folks, Hi bizzy, or the flywheel could have something to do with these experiments.

peace love light
tyson:sun:

Hi Tyson
Thanks for the idea...If I am understanding this correctly I should be able to run a motor with a flywheel such as mine and then shut it off then restart it again in less than a minute and upon starting it the second time it would require less power to start it than the first time...does that sound correct??? If so I may be able to test that theory AND if that works it may just be another step to better understanding why my motor works...Let me know if that is in fact how you understand it...Also I noticed that you mentioned that the motor was restarted in the opposite direction, would that work if I restarted it in the same direction as the first time?
Thanks
Bizzy

wrtner
08-29-2012, 03:21 PM
When my son mentioned my machine to his science professor he looked at my son like he had two heads.

Assuming he doesn't, then his pitch was faulty.

The assumption is that space is full of charged particles which arrive
and decay very rapidly indeed. If we can grab them and get them into
our circuit before they disappear, then we will get more energy out
than we put in.

This is a very long shot but why not suggest to the teacher that
he tries to contact the legendary Hal Puthoff, ex Professor at the
University of Stanford in California, now running Earthtech International
in Texas. EarthTech (http://earthtech.org/) Their phone number is (512) 615-0235 .
He might encourage the teacher to be as helpful as possible and end
up with a research paper to be published under his name, thereby
covering himself with glory.

Bizzy
08-29-2012, 04:26 PM
Assuming he doesn't, then his pitch was faulty.

The assumption is that space is full of charged particles which arrive
and decay very rapidly indeed. If we can grab them and get them into
our circuit before they disappear, then we will get more energy out
than we put in.

This is a very long shot but why not suggest to the teacher that
he tries to contact the legendary Hal Puthoff, ex Professor at the
University of Stanford in California, now running Earthtech International
in Texas. EarthTech (http://earthtech.org/) Their phone number is (512) 615-0235 .
He might encourage the teacher to be as helpful as possible and end
up with a research paper to be published under his name, thereby
covering himself with glory.

Hi Paul
My son is only 16 so his only concern is girls, cars and gaming so I am sure his pitch was probably not very good.

Be that as it may he attends a city school where the teachers really don't care about learning new ideas. The teachers simply want to get the kids in and out quickly and get thier pensions.
Bizzy

SkyWatcher
08-29-2012, 10:30 PM
Hi folks, Hi bizzy, I have never verified those claims, though it makes sense somehow.
Here is the pdf link of where i got that information.
panaceauniversity.org/Ainslie_heater_circuit_by_Patrick_Kelly.pdf
peace love light
tyson:sun:

wrtner
08-30-2012, 02:33 PM
Unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope


Because the device is relativley slow running, you
could try winscope:
Winscope (http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Prac/winscope.htm)

It plugs into the sound card.

What you could do is to have two lines, one measuring the
voltage going to the motor and one measuring from the
energiser's output - ENSURING THAT THE RANGE IS OK
WITH RESISTORS OR YOU WILL BLOW THE SOUND CARD.

Then switch rapidly between the two.

wrtner
08-30-2012, 09:32 PM
Because the device is relatively slow running, you
could try winscope:
Winscope (http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Prac/winscope.htm)

It plugs into the sound card.



Winscope is dual beam.

You would need a cable with 3.5mm minijack at one end (for the sound
card) and two phono plugs at the other. Also, a whole load of resistors
and variable resistors to cut the voltage down to avoid blowing the
sound card. Measure the voltages first with a regular multimeter.

Every time there is a change in the system, there is the chance of a
nasty spike of greater size. It would be good to begin each run with
the resistors set to infinity and then wind them down. Winscope's
instructions go through all this.

Then you should be able to check that the voltages are out of step
with eachother.

Paul-R

Bizzy
09-11-2012, 04:53 PM
Winscope is dual beam.

You would need a cable with 3.5mm minijack at one end (for the sound
card) and two phono plugs at the other. Also, a whole load of resistors
and variable resistors to cut the voltage down to avoid blowing the
sound card. Measure the voltages first with a regular multimeter.

Every time there is a change in the system, there is the chance of a
nasty spike of greater size. It would be good to begin each run with
the resistors set to infinity and then wind them down. Winscope's
instructions go through all this.

Then you should be able to check that the voltages are out of step
with eachother.

Paul-R

Hi Paul
that sounds interesting. I mentioned that to my wife and I may get that for my birthday next month. i agree that would be interesting to examine closer.


Hello to everyone else.
Up here n the Commonwealth we are busy with harvest time and making wine and preserves so I have had little time to tinker. The little time I have been able to work I have been trying to re-enforce my parts so they can last longer than what they did. This is requiring me to rethink my circuits a little bit too. With that in mind I was looking back in some of my old tests and came across a test I did last year which is helping alot...

For this machine to work you must be able to produce more power than needed to run the motor. Part of that process is reduce friction and drag on the motor. To that end when I was testing my switch I came across the idea of using two capacitors in a series instead of just one capacitor.
My inital tests were promising Then about that time George(by the way has anyone heard from him lately FRC???) suggested using a battery at my switch similar to what John Bedini...it worked so I didn't revist the two series capaitors until now.
However now that I am using a capacitor and battery in parrellel so....I will now need to put two batteries in series into parellel with two capacitors in a series. This should keep the fast switch time while reducing the drag on the alternator.


We are still looking at sometime in the 2nd quarter 2013 at being transfered to NC
Bizzy

wrtner
09-11-2012, 10:10 PM
Hi Paul
that sounds interesting. I mentioned that to my wife and I may get that for my birthday next month.

Dear me, Bizzy. You should negotiate for something else. Winscope is free.

penno64
09-21-2012, 11:58 AM
Hey Bizzy,

Where have your videos gone ?

Penno

Bizzy
09-29-2012, 11:39 AM
Hey Bizzy,

Where have your videos gone ?

Penno

Hi Penno and to everyone as well
The videos were made private by mistake but are back up now. I have been busy with gardening and wine making lately so I didn't notice the mistake until just this morning but they are back up now...


I have also been tinkering as usual As you know from my previous posts my wife and I are getting ready to move for my job...in so doing I had to take down my machine and rebuilt it in my garage which is when I discovered several parts with fatigue and many more that were broken simply becuase of prolonged running. So I have been busy rebuilding the machine with other more sturdier parts. As a result I have had to rethink some of my circuit design not but much but enough that most will quickly see the changes. I hope to have a new ciruit posted some time in th enear future.
Bizzy

andy007
03-21-2013, 03:25 PM
Where can I get a machine?

Bizzy
03-21-2013, 07:14 PM
Where can I get a machine?

Hi Andy
The only way to get one is to build one.
Bizzy

gorthox
03-21-2013, 10:44 PM
hello
i'm new to the energetic forum, and to circuitry in general. as such, i am a little confused about some subjects in this thread, but i can understand most of them.the biggest question i have is whether or not this machine is actually creating energy, or if it is just a very efficient motor.

andy007
03-22-2013, 09:30 AM
I just want one, it will be great for charging mobiles, laptops etc, but might try a 240 volt inverter on it and see what happens. I have no idea where to start to make one?

Bizzy
03-22-2013, 10:21 AM
I just want one, it will be great for charging mobiles, laptops etc, but might try a 240 volt inverter on it and see what happens. I have no idea where to start to make one?

Hi Andy
I think for your purpose of simply recharging bateries you would want to use a Bedini School girl motor. You can actually buy a Bedini SG kit now which i hear is fantastic and easier than building from scratch.

The unit I built is more for helping you get off the grid and supplying larger amounts of energy. Mine actually costs less and produces more. The draw back is the space required and the noise
Bizzy

andy007
03-22-2013, 11:22 AM
Hi Andy
I think for your purpose of simply recharging bateries you would want to use a Bedini School girl motor. You can actually buy a Bedini SG kit now which i hear is fantastic and easier than building from scratch.

The unit I built is more for helping you get off the grid and supplying larger amounts of energy. Mine actually costs less and produces more. The draw back is the space required and the noise
Bizzy

Yours sounds more like what I want, I can close it up in a cupboard, so the noise would not be to bad, or down the bottom of our path in a garage, I could turn it off at night and go back on grid? I used to be an electrician in the old days, so should get the hang of how it all works. Have you pictures of your and a list of stuff i need, how to wire it etc, sorry to ask all this but I have only just found this bedini thing!

Bizzy
03-22-2013, 12:55 PM
Yours sounds more like what I want, I can close it up in a cupboard, so the noise would not be to bad, or down the bottom of our path in a garage, I could turn it off at night and go back on grid? I used to be an electrician in the old days, so should get the hang of how it all works. Have you pictures of your and a list of stuff i need, how to wire it etc, sorry to ask all this but I have only just found this bedini thing!

Hi Andy
Trust me these things make more noise than a cupboard will hide. The first unit I built was in the basement. :rofl: It made so much noise, I had to take it apart and rebuild it in the garage and even then I had to surround it with insulated plywood walls(which seemed to work)
The units are 4'X6' wide and 8' tall. But they work and can produce enough power for all the electrical needs of a typical house.

As far as a parts list and plans ...it is a very simple machine unfortunately I am having some personal issues which will delay putting it together.
Bizzy

gorthox
03-22-2013, 04:24 PM
Hi Gorthox
The answer to both your questions is yes. It does produce usable energy and yes it is efficient.
The key is to arrange the parts in the proper order to do the proper jiob. The transfer swicth i made allows the alternator to arch and produce spikes of 1200 volts or more. If you read some of John Bedini's older writings he describes how those spikes are the best method for charging batteries. That is one of the reasons I started using a batterie to transfer power from the alternator to the motor.
However these electrical spikes are used specifically for running the motor. I have also added an additional alternator and transfer switch and the same shaft that gives me usable power. By adding the second alternator i doubled my electrical output without reducing motor speed.
Bizzy
Bizzy

Just to make sure we both understand each other, I am asking whether or not this device is outputting more energy than the input energy. If so, that would mean you have achieved over-unity, WHICH WOULD BE AWESOME!!

Bizzy
03-22-2013, 07:01 PM
Just to make sure we both understand each other, I am asking whether or not this device is outputting more energy than the input energy. If so, that would mean you have achieved over-unity, WHICH WOULD BE AWESOME!!

Hi Gorthox
The alternator allows for easy energy produce with little drag
The switch which allows energy to transfer from the alternator to the motor without being effected by Lenz's law, the switch also allows the transfer battery to be charged with high voltage spikes like Mr Bedini suggested.
The bearing system which reduces drag and friction.
These items placed in the proper circuit allows the stock 12/24 volt motor to run at a high enough speed to produce enough electricty to power itself. and by adding an additional alternator and switch onto the same shaft with no addition drag on the motor usable energy is being produced.
Bizzy

Turion
03-23-2013, 01:16 AM
Bizzy,
So when are you going to release some plans so that others can replicate your results and we can start the process of standardizing this so lots of folks can build it? I would suggest that you have at least three others duplicate your build as closely as possible, and then once there have been three successful replications, the process of seeing what we can do to build this out of standardized off the shelf components can begin. The world is waiting for someone to be the first to step up and show the way for everyone. I hope it is you.

Dave

gorthox
03-23-2013, 04:27 AM
I volunteer!!
By the way, I believe that your video is still set to private.

Bizzy
03-23-2013, 10:10 AM
Bizzy,
So when are you going to release some plans so that others can replicate your results and we can start the process of standardizing this so lots of folks can build it? I would suggest that you have at least three others duplicate your build as closely as possible, and then once there have been three successful replications, the process of seeing what we can do to build this out of standardized off the shelf components can begin. The world is waiting for someone to be the first to step up and show the way for everyone. I hope it is you.

Dave

Hi Dave
There are some personal issues I need to resolve first. Once I get things in my life settled I want to post the corrected wire schematics.... After I moved the unit from the basement and to my garage and began running it for longer periods of time until parts began to fatigue. The longest the units have run are four months continually until parts began to break, which I was able to correct and actually helped the machines run better. The most surprising element was the removal of the alternator capacitor:suprise:
I have additional video of the rebuilt units however until I get to post the corrected schematics any video would be meaningless which is why I took down the old videos as well. In addition I was STRONGLY counseled to bring them down(enough said).

As far as replication I will greatly welcome that. In fact there is one person on the forum who has seen it working and is slowly building a unit as the money permits. I have also been in contact with two other people who frequent the forum who will be visiting me and examing my machine once my personal issues are resolved. (you know who you are :cheers: )


I have been couseled that making the information public is the safest method of protecting myself my family and my ideas, so it is in my best interests to share it.

The fact that it is a very simple devce means that it can't be effectively patented. Nor would I do that since John Bedini did it forst already...I just added to his ideas...thanks again John.
As i mentioned the key improvements I made were the alternator... the transfer switch.... and bearings. All three of which are simple to build. In fact they are so simple which is probably why they have been ignored in the past.
Bizzy

Turion
03-23-2013, 06:53 PM
Bizzy,
In that case, just let us know when the time comes. There are lots of us who are ready and willing to replicate. This is my full time job, since I no longer work for a living and have to have SOMETHING to do to keep from driving my poor wife insane.

Dave

tachyoncatcher
03-24-2013, 08:00 PM
The longest the units have run are four months continually until parts began to break, which I was able to correct and actually helped the machines run better. The most surprising element was the removal of the alternator capacitor:suprise:


@Bizzy,
Your circuit must be a good deviant from the typical SG or SB. Others, including myself, have experience using no cap dump and great efficiencies. However, I have never been able to get more than a few days before my battery crystallizes and becomes total trash. Yet alone, be able to draw power for anything other than the motor/energizer/alternator. I too look forward to your open source disclosure as JB has done.
Cheers,
Randy

Bizzy
03-24-2013, 11:55 PM
@Bizzy,
Your circuit must be a good deviant from the typical SG or SB. Others, including myself, have experience using no cap dump and great efficiencies. However, I have never been able to get more than a few days before my battery crystallizes and becomes total trash. Yet alone, be able to draw power for anything other than the motor/energizer/alternator. I too look forward to your open source disclosure as JB has done.
Cheers,
Randy

Hi Ran
Actually when I was having problems with my parts I went back and simply reread some of the early writings of John Bedini and there was my solution :thumbsup: I simply removed the alternator cap

Trust me I am doing nothing different than John did. Although I had this idea in my head for many years I am just following his guidelines. Actually if you compare the 1984 machine and the SG circuit they are simliar. The big differance is that the SG is "solid state" and the "1984" machine is mechanical in its switching. It could very well be that is where the differance in your results are...just a thought
Bizzy

gorthox
04-05-2013, 10:42 PM
Just some food for thought (and for conversation, this thread is dying :rofl: )

Does anyone have thoughts or interest in modifying this system to be compatible with an electric vehicle?

Exactly how loud is this machine, and what parts of the system are creating the noise?

Is it possible to extend the shaft of the motor enough to add another switch and alternator? If so, would this make the device more compact/more efficient?

I am mainly asking these questions to further develop the design and improve the future of this device. All input is worthy, no idea is stupid.

gorthox

Bizzy
04-06-2013, 09:44 AM
Just some food for thought (and for conversation, this thread is dying :rofl: )

Does anyone have thoughts or interest in modifying this system to be compatible with an electric vehicle?

Exactly how loud is this machine, and what parts of the system are creating the noise?

Is it possible to extend the shaft of the motor enough to add another switch and alternator? If so, would this make the device more compact/more efficient?

I am mainly asking these questions to further develop the design and improve the future of this device. All input is worthy, no idea is stupid.

gorthox

Hi Gorthox
Yep i know it seems like this thread is stagnet, which it is. Once I get some personal issues sorted I will be able to devote more time to the machine and this thread.


I also wondered if it could be modifed for a vehilce. The orginal units are VERY heavy which is mostly because of the stands I am using to prevent them shacking apart But I always thought that with the proper mounts that yes they can be used in a vehicle.

They are louder than my wife will allow in the house :rofl: Actually there is only one noisy part which is the transfer switch. I tried using solid state swicthing ie mosfets and transisters etc but they couldn't handle the extreme voltage that was needed to spike charge the transfer battery. That is why i went with a mechanical switch. Unfortunately that is the nature of the beast and trust me it is LOUDEar protect is needed whenever I go to inspect them. Since I was practically raised in a sawmill noise doesnt usually bother so that gives you some idea how loud they are.

As far as your other question many additional alternators can and were added to the shafts. Because of the bearing system i use I can extend the shaft as much as possible. Currently each unit has five alternators additional on it. One unit actually has seven additional alternators on it.
Bizzy

Gedfire
05-11-2013, 05:49 PM
Hi Gorthox
Yep i know it seems like this thread is stagnet, which it is. Once I get some personal issues sorted I will be able to devote more time to the machine and this thread.


I also wondered if it could be modifed for a vehilce. The orginal units are VERY heavy which is mostly because of the stands I am using to prevent them shacking apart But I always thought that with the proper mounts that yes they can be used in a vehicle.

They are louder than my wife will allow in the house :rofl: Actually there is only one noisy part which is the transfer switch. I tried using solid state swicthing ie mosfets and transisters etc but they couldn't handle the extreme voltage that was needed to spike charge the transfer battery. That is why i went with a mechanical switch. Unfortunately that is the nature of the beast and trust me it is LOUDEar protect is needed whenever I go to inspect them. Since I was practically raised in a sawmill noise doesnt usually bother so that gives you some idea how loud they are.

As far as your other question many additional alternators can and were added to the shafts. Because of the bearing system i use I can extend the shaft as much as possible. Currently each unit has five alternators additional on it. One unit actually has seven additional alternators on it.
Bizzy

Firstly, Bizzy I want to congratulate you on the time and effort you have expended in getting this device to work.

I see you mentioned the noise problem.Maybe you could deviate add what others have found to work for them to your machine.I speak of the Chas,Wilson and Jacob Bitsaze devices outlined in Patrick Kelly's pdf.The Water Wheel guy is worth looking albiet we minus the water and use an efficient motor instead.

I will be doing just that during the summer when I have more time.

By the way was Jim Watson killed or what? Is he and family on a beach somewhere on a Caribbean Island ? They said he disappeared.All these years without a word!? Come on, he must go to a park somewhere or some airport.He could'nt have "borrowed" the Great Master JB Work and run with it and was never seen again?

And Sir JB, are you sure you are still not shaken up by the thugs that visted you so many years ago? I ask because, I am yet to see the King Size Castle powering Watson Machine done with all the modern technology at our disposal.Come on its 2013! An gasoline is US$7:25 per litre so you can imagine electriciy bills US$300 per month....

Know why I haven't tried yet.I work and funds, well I have to be careful with that, but I will see what I can put together.

Ged

tachyoncatcher
05-12-2013, 02:19 AM
By the way was Jim Watson killed or what? Is he and family on a beach somewhere on a Caribbean Island ? They said he disappeared.All these years without a word!? Come on, he must go to a park somewhere or some airport.He could'nt have "borrowed" the Great Master JB Work and run with it and was never seen again?

Hey Ged,
I read some where, Jim Watson was not killed or disappeared. He just sold out. He moved after the sale, not disappeared. Per the terms of his sale, he did not talk about the build or design. Nothing so mysterious.
Randy

Bizzy
05-12-2013, 10:40 AM
Firstly, Bizzy I want to congratulate you on the time and effort you have expended in getting this device to work.

I see you mentioned the noise problem.Maybe you could deviate add what others have found to work for them to your machine.I speak of the Chas,Wilson and Jacob Bitsaze devices outlined in Patrick Kelly's pdf.The Water Wheel guy is worth looking albiet we minus the water and use an efficient motor instead.

I will be doing just that during the summer when I have more time.

By the way was Jim Watson killed or what? Is he and family on a beach somewhere on a Caribbean Island ? They said he disappeared.All these years without a word!? Come on, he must go to a park somewhere or some airport.He could'nt have "borrowed" the Great Master JB Work and run with it and was never seen again?

And Sir JB, are you sure you are still not shaken up by the thugs that visted you so many years ago? I ask because, I am yet to see the King Size Castle powering Watson Machine done with all the modern technology at our disposal.Come on its 2013! An gasoline is US$7:25 per litre so you can imagine electriciy bills US$300 per month....

Know why I haven't tried yet.I work and funds, well I have to be careful with that, but I will see what I can put together.

Ged

Hi Gedfire
Thanks to several suggestions and encouragement from volks here on the forum I was able to over come or atleast mask the noise problem to keep my wife happy :thumbsup:
I have several units up and working now. For reasons beyond my control I had to relocate the machines which set back any further research as well as posting an up dated video.
I have two updated videos already showing some of the improvements and more detail on its working. I am also starting a how to video...I will keep you all posted.
Thanks
Bizzy

Gedfire
05-20-2013, 02:15 AM
Hey Ged,
I read some where, Jim Watson was not killed or disappeared. He just sold out. He moved after the sale, not disappeared. Per the terms of his sale, he did not talk about the build or design. Nothing so mysterious.
Randy

Thanks Randy! So its up to us to remake it then.

@Bizzy
Excellent.That is what I love about this forum. I am going to check out your videos.
Thank youu for your time.
By the way, any schematics yet?
Ged

Turion
05-20-2013, 05:59 AM
We're waiting patiently, Bizzy.

Even if you aren't yet ready to share schematics, do you have a parts list so some of us could start the process of gathering the necessary parts? It takes time to save up money and to get things that you have to order, so any advanced info would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

Bizzy
07-01-2013, 11:33 PM
We're waiting patiently, Bizzy.

Even if you aren't yet ready to share schematics, do you have a parts list so some of us could start the process of gathering the necessary parts? It takes time to save up money and to get things that you have to order, so any advanced info would be greatly appreciated.

Dave

Hi Dave
I apologize for not being on line latley....My wife and I have just finished moving and I am almost finished train kill by for my new job.....however after one more week I will be able to devote more time to sharing details of my work....Thanks for your patience
BIZZY

Turion
07-02-2013, 06:05 AM
Not a problem man. Just worried a little since we haven't heard from you. Can't wait to see what you've got.

Dave

Bizzy
07-11-2013, 08:55 AM
Good morning everyone
Because of circumstances beyond my control had to take down my videos. However they are currently up. Enjoy and feel free to comment on them
My new job is going great(and is much better than my last job which I hated)
Unfortunately I am away slot of the time but will continue to post when I can
Bizzy

tachyoncatcher
07-14-2013, 01:59 AM
Hey Bizzy,
Good to hear things are going well. Do you have a link to your youtube channel? I can't find ya.
Thanks,
Randy

Bizzy
07-14-2013, 03:12 PM
Hi Randy,

Here are the links for the video of my machine. I am currently away from my house for work so I can't down load the new video but the old ones give you a good idea of how it works
I do have a new video showing more detail and am working on a how to video on how to build the switch, which is the key element to the machine. I know John uses a solid state circuit but I am a humble hillbillie so I use a mechanical switch. Just remember if you start this project IT IS LOUD!!!!!

Bedini Machine aka Watson Machine - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdiK8sb81XU)

Transfer Switch part 2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGRttZo_Px8)

Transfer Switch.AVI - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol9DhrI3bD8)

Let me know if you have any questions. Once I get back home I will post the new video and the parts list.


Also this is an official disclaimer to those from Lord Corporation who are watching this site. Please note that it is now six months since my termination and you have no authority over my ideas or personal intellectual property.
As a result of my termination six months ago I can now freely give away my ideas to the benefit of others.

Let me know if you have any questions
Thanks
Bizzy

OrionLightShip
07-16-2013, 12:45 AM
That's a cool deal you got there! Sounds like a diesel truck but it works! :thumbsup:

Gedfire
07-17-2013, 06:46 PM
Hi Randy,

Here are the links for the video of my machine. I am currently away from my house for work so I can't down load the new video but the old ones give you a good idea of how it works
I do have a new video showing more detail and am working on a how to video on how to build the switch, which is the key element to the machine. I know John uses a solid state circuit but I am a humble hillbillie so I use a mechanical switch. Just remember if you start this project IT IS LOUD!!!!!

Bedini Machine aka Watson Machine - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdiK8sb81XU)

Transfer Switch part 2 - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGRttZo_Px8)

Transfer Switch.AVI - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ol9DhrI3bD8)

Let me know if you have any questions. Once I get back home I will post the new video and the parts list.


Also this is an official disclaimer to those from Lord Corporation who are watching this site. Please note that it is now six months since my termination and you have no authority over my ideas or personal intellectual property.
As a result of my termination six months ago I can now freely give away my ideas to the benefit of others.

Let me know if you have any questions
Thanks
Bizzy

Thank you very much for posting this.I knew intuitively that someone was after you.They can forget it.The videos are out for all and Sundry.Not like those old days.Its difficult to suppress these things anymore.VERY.Too much money, too much killings, too many cell phones with cameras, too many people from too many countries...... too many smart ones... Just leave them be people.Thanks again Bizzy, please let us know anything, anything.

Ged

alman
07-24-2013, 10:53 PM
Been following you since last year, not the creepy kind ;) keep it up Bizzy. Couldn't view transfer switch II though. not sure why. Al

Bizzy
08-13-2013, 01:47 AM
Thank you very much for posting this.I knew intuitively that someone was after you.They can forget it.The videos are out for all and Sundry.Not like those old days.Its difficult to suppress these things anymore.VERY.Too much money, too much killings, too many cell phones with cameras, too many people from too many countries...... too many smart ones... Just leave them be people.Thanks again Bizzy, please let us know anything, anything.

Ged
Hi Ged
A few close friends here on the forum knew of my issues but with that disclaimer it is out in the open. In fact I believe someone or someones from THAT company signed into the forum and posed as an interested and innocent inventor. Fortunately they didn't hide their tacks well and I found them out.

Regardless I still am on the road and haven't been home yet.....that song "six days on the road" has nothing on me....after my training I have already logged 7200 miles in a little over a month....I have two more days and 900 miles then I'll be home for a few days but after that I will be home regularly and can resume my postings

Also for my friends I no longer need"40acres to turn this rig around" now I can turn it on a dime and give you a nickels change...lol
Thanks to everyone for your support caring and patience
Bizzy

Donald Haas
08-13-2013, 02:00 PM
Smile it doesn't hurt!

Jesus said,"...all things are possible through God." Mk10:27

Hi Bizzy,

I havn't posted to any of your threads before but I want you to know that I

appreciate you.

Been following some and watching the vids.

Can't see enough on the vids to "get it" yet, but expect to.

Another thing that Jesus said to his disciples that always fires me up:

But the Comforter, which is the Holy Ghost, whom the Father will send in my name,
he shall teach you all things,.................. Joh 14:26

Is he qualified to teach regarding our energy interests? YEP!

We on da winnin' team!!:thumbsup: :thanks:

bro d

garrypm
08-16-2013, 10:20 PM
Hi Bizzy,

I hope things have settled for you.

May I ask about the battery/cap segment of your setup?

If you parallel a couple of caps across the battery, why does the meter
measuring the bat/cap, jump so much?

or

Could you draw out that segment of the setup?

Cheers, Garry

Bizzy
11-03-2013, 08:47 PM
Hello everyone
I have been getting your private messages but my kindle will not let me reply to them while I am on the road.....Carroll I got your letter and will call you in a few days
My new job is doing great Andy New employer has giving me extra routes which is good unfortunately I can't get home ad much as I would like.....I have been able to tear down my first unit and started to rebuild and making a how to video better than I had....unfortunately 10000 miles a month doesn't allow for much home time but I am getting my dedicated routes in November and my life should be calmer
Thanks for your concern prayers and support
Bizzy

garrypm
11-03-2013, 10:06 PM
Keep well Bizzy, Garry

Turion
11-21-2013, 06:55 AM
Just glad to know you are OK!!

Dave

Donald Haas
05-27-2014, 02:54 PM
Hi Alvarohn,
In mine I use 8 (1"X2") magnets each with altering polarity S/N/S/N/S/N
And I use 6 coils of 14 gauge wire. Each coil is wound around a 1"X2" jig so that there are actuallt 12 coil bundles (2 bundles for each coil) for the magnets to pass over. So that there is only one magnet over a coil at any one time.
I didn't know the name until you mentioned it so yes mine are also non linear
Thanks
Bizzy


Hi All,
Let's revive this thread and get some reps running.
I've gone over Bizzy's posts and related posts with applicable info.
I believe that I can get one to work.

The thing about Bizzy that impresses me the most is his obvious ability to receive wisdom from the Lord. We are told in scripture that anyone who asks for wisdom will receive it. Non performance based and promised.
I'm a Christian like Bizzy but I'm not here to preach.

In the above quote Bizzy says "So that there is only one magnet over a coil at any one time.
When we look at 6 coils and 8 mags we see 2 mags over coils at a time.
Mags and coils at 12:00 and 6:00 (clock face) correct?

I have 2 sets of mag rotors from from windgenkits.com and a 9 coil, star config casting on hand. I have several motors to test alternator setups.
I'm going to try 9 coils and 10 mags first and see what we have.

An EE in UFO POLITICS threads named John Stone gives a clinic on pulsing hi amp loads through mosfets. I've built his ccts and have seen 1800W at 3-4kHz and no heat in the fets. Good info there.

Also on the yahoo evgray group, Einspace has a cct that pulses hi voltage through mosfets. I've done that one in 2 apps and have a motor that runs on 300v and another on 450v rectified AC. Heat is manageable for long runs.

I've recently built 2 window motors that could run this rig (one has a 26lb rotor, the other is small with hi torque) and also have ordered a field wound motor like Bizzy uses and 5, 2 farad caps, so I'm "in".

If anyone is in touch with Bizzy, please wish him and his family well for me.

Thanks for your consideration on this opportunity.

Did you notice that what JB said is required, is not what Bizzy did for his indefinite self runner? Impressive.

Best regards to all,

bro d

wrtner
05-28-2014, 02:06 PM
Did you notice that what JB said is required, is not what Bizzy did for his indefinite self runner? Impressive.


Interesting. In what post did Bizzy say that his machine was an indefinite self runner?
.

Donald Haas
05-29-2014, 01:25 AM
Hi Wrtner,
"Indefinite self runner" is my own wording.
He talked about multiple runs of more than 24 hours.

Bizzy said:
"the good news was that my machine has ran non stop for 9 days with no sign of slowing or lose of power."

I've copied the errors as he wrote them.

He wrote of stopping runs because of noise and having to pack for his move.
Looks to me like it can run until mechanical failure.

It's nice to see a successful self runner and it's not connected to add copy for a product.


I tried 9 coils and 10 mags today and see that I have to ditch the steel bolts.
There is a significant increase in output when I move the mag rotor closer to the steel bolt on either side of the set up.
6v - 21v while getting closer.
Will be adding steel behind the coils or a 2nd mag rotor.
I have a lot of get acquainted testing to do with AF alts.

Regards,

bro d

Turion
05-29-2014, 01:46 AM
Have any of you PM'd Bizzy? He's around from time to time and has completed his relocation I believe he is on the road often, which is why his posts here are infrequent, but I believe he is still working on this.

Dave

Donald Haas
05-29-2014, 04:05 AM
I pm'd him yesterday.
Has he posted anywhere since last DEC?

wrtner
05-29-2014, 01:44 PM
"the good news was that my machine has ran non stop for 9 days with no sign of slowing or lose of power."

I think Bizzy's work is very interesting, but this means little. The device's battery has provided power to overcome friction in a bearing. It would do so. This is no indication of OU.

It is certainly not a signal to ignore JB's recommendations (see your post 157).

Donald Haas
05-30-2014, 02:46 PM
It is certainly not a signal to ignore JB's recommendations (see your post 157).[/QUOTE]

Hi Wrtner,

In another post Bizzy said it ran for 4 months non stop.

He said that one of his machines had 7 alternators.

Bizzy did not use a monople energizer. He used a 3 phase axial flux alternator. A non linear mag and coil relationship with 6 coils and 8 mags, #14AWG coils wound on a 1" x 2" form, 100 turns. 1" x 2" neo mags.

Bedini said a non linear monopole energizer is required.

Bedini did not show pairs of in series batteries/caps in parallel, from which the motor was pulsed. He very well may have experimented with the concept. He seems to have done just about everything that any of us can think to try.

I'm not speaking against Bedini just observing the facts as best I can in the natural and the spiritual.

I'm presently studying the switching method.
Bizzy never showed the machanical arrangement of his switch, after he stopped using mosfets. He did indicate a passing arm for his switch.

Apparently there was no mechanical drag like with a commutator and brushes. I'm thinking that one could have a neo mag pass over a pair of contacts. The lower contact being ferrous and the upper one being non ferrous. The neo mag passing above would pull the lower one into the upper one and then release when the mag passes. Spring pressure could also be utilized to enhance efficiency. No friction.

One could also use mag repulsion where the passing neo mag will force the contacts together with down ward pressure. Non friction mechanical switching. (A 500v, 50A reed switch with 10,000000 cycle life, will do just fine)

I havn't thought of this type of switching before. I've spent years with commutators and brushes, automobile points and mosfets to switch hi V/hi A apps. Made many commutators and machined many cams for automobile points to switch 300v -2500v. They all fried.

Since Bizzy had it running 4 months with no switch failure then he had the arching under control, also.

With a window motor switched with hall devices, one can turn the motor off by switching the supply to the halls. That would be a very low watt 12V switching and could very well work just fine with a SS sw.
But, I'll work with mechanical for pulsing from Bizzy's transfer batt/cap to the motor.

Plenty to do.

Highest regards to all,

bro d

wrtner
05-30-2014, 03:38 PM
In another post Bizzy said it ran for 4 months non stop.


Modern accumulators have immense capacity. If the device is not outputting to a substantial and measured load, then it will run for a very long time if all it is doing is overcoming the friction of a good quality bearing.

The machine needs to run a load.
.

citfta
05-31-2014, 11:15 PM
Hi Donald Haas,

I am pretty sure from some conversations with Bizzy he was using a mechanical switch of his own design. I got the impression he was using a cam to actuate the switch but I don't recall his actually saying that. I know he tried several different motors before he got one that would work like he wanted. In one of his videos he shows using a second battery to get the motor and alternator up to speed before switching to the run only battery. I also know he was running some considerable loads for weeks at a time so I would ignore those that say he didn't have a load. I am pretty sure you can take all the information he has provided in this thread and the earlier one he had for a while and get a working system. I have just not had the time to follow through on how I think it could be done. I think the keys are to have a very efficient generating system with low drag, a good switching system and a motor that will provide enough torque to keep the system up to speed and not have any drag on the system when not being powered. And the last key would be to have enough mass to help maintain speed when the motor is off. This could be from a flywheel or just the rotor of the alternator if it is large enough. Good luck on your quest. I hope to get back to work on this project again sometime in the not too distant future. If I get something going I will post my results.

Carroll

Donald Haas
06-01-2014, 03:56 AM
Hi Carroll,

Thanks for posting. Your positive comments are encouraging.
There are forum participants who have seen the machine run but maybe don't want to be known. I was thinking that maybe tips could be texted by phone or private email for example.

Today I tested switching using mag resistance and mag attraction.

Either method could be used. The attraction method is much louder.

Bizzy talked about the switch closing when the magnet passes and then the lower magnet "falling" into position #2.

Sounds like he used the attraction method with the upper mag passing and pulling the lower mag up to close the switch.

On another issue:
Do you know if his alt mag rotor was metal?
I have the Hugh Piggott Wind Turbine Recipe Book and all mag rotors are metal.

One setup in the book is in fact the 6 coils and 8 mags that Bizzy preferred.

Waiting for stuff on order.

Thanks again, Carroll.

Keepin' on,

bro d

Donald Haas
06-01-2014, 04:42 AM
I click on insert image and the page is asking for a url.
Why doesn't it ask me to upload the image?

I click on attachments and the only choice is "attachments"

wrtner
06-01-2014, 01:31 PM
I click on insert image and the page is asking for a url.
Why doesn't it ask me to upload the image?

I click on attachments and the only choice is "attachments"

Use:
"Additional options" facility and then
"Manage attachments"

You will get a browse button to steer you to where your file is.
.

Donald Haas
06-01-2014, 08:20 PM
Thanks for the help wrtner.

Attached pdf file is concept of required switching.

Mag repulsion mode had less drag than attraction mode and pulls the contacts apart after close period.

I'll be experimenting to handle 200W.

Want to see arching and contact wear.

Hoping to locate contacts from equipment that can handle much higher Watts.

Perhaps resistance welding silver plated rivets.

bro d

wrtner
06-01-2014, 11:04 PM
I haven't been following this thread very closely and may have missed the point of these switches. Are they simple electrical switches, single pole, single throw? If so, you may find a Hall effect switch does a better job. Patrick's book mentions the A1301 (or A1302) and how to use it for switching a circuit from a rotating shaft with a magnet.

Donald Haas
06-01-2014, 11:47 PM
I haven't been following this thread very closely and may have missed the point of these switches. Are they simple electrical switches, single pole, single throw? If so, you may find a Hall effect switch does a better job. Patrick's book mentions the A1301 (or A1302) and how to use it for switching a circuit from a rotating shaft with a magnet.

Hi wrtner,
I'm sticking with mechanical contacts for the time being.
Halls could be used to trigger a relay with mechanical contacts.
When JB moved away from a commutator and brushes he used a 555 timer cct to trigger a DPDT mechanical relay.

In my attached pdf image the idea is using magnet repulsion to force contacts together. No friction, brushless. When the passing magnet is at the edge of the sw closed "zone" it actually pulls the contacts apart. I've got to test it for appropriate wattage.

Are you planning to build along the lines of Bizzy's mjachine?

Regards,

bro d

wrtner
06-02-2014, 04:16 PM
Are you planning to build along the lines of Bizzy's machine?

Regards,

bro d

I have most of the bits but have been hanging back to see how Bizzy gets on. I think I will pursue in my direction, which is strictly the JB direction, namely, amongst other things, using his "energisers" (not alternators), prefering metal switches (as you are) and ensuring that the pulses to the motor are out of step with the pulses from the energiser.

You say: "When JB moved away from a commutator and brushes he used a 555 timer cct to trigger a DPDT mechanical relay". Where does this come from? It is at variance with his 1984 paper on the "Watson" machine, a jumbo version of his original development. Maybe it is an improvement or possibly a misunderstanding and a move in the wrong direction.

Donald Haas
06-03-2014, 03:47 AM
I have most of the bits but have been hanging back to see how Bizzy gets on. I think I will pursue in my direction, which is strictly the JB direction, namely, amongst other things, using his "energisers" (not alternators), prefering metal switches (as you are) and ensuring that the pulses to the motor are out of step with the pulses from the energiser.

Hi wrtner,

I'm able to get very good square waves with the mag attraction mode.
By dampening the contact movement, the noise decreases and seeing good clean switching at about 600rpm (1200cycles per minute) Was able to run a series wound 1/7hp DC motor off of a batt with the switch. (Fasco DC143. Out of production but they can be found.)

BUY DC143 Fasco Bus and Truck Heater DC Motor (http://www.sqone.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.prodInfo&prodId=78287)

You say: "When JB moved away from a commutator and brushes he used a 555 timer cct to trigger a DPDT mechanical relay". Where does this come from? It is at variance with his 1984 paper on the "Watson" machine, a jumbo version of his original development. Maybe it is an improvement or possibly a misunderstanding and a move in the wrong direction.

Bedini said in Electricity's Watson thread, that Watson used his 555 timer circuit. In Electricity's Watson thread Bedini's ire was a bit raised and he made some valuable comments.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/6744-electricitys-watson-machine.html

I've attached a copy of the circuit.

It looks like the duty cycle of alt to batt and batt to motor, are both close to 50%. I doubt if Buzzy's switch is more than 25% duty cycle for each.

This may allow for the use of an AF alternator instead of an energizer.

Glad to hear that you can build one of these.

Bro d

wrtner
06-03-2014, 02:42 PM
The drawing I have in mind is as attached. But I recall a method of ensuring that the pulse to the motor is out of step with the pulse from the energiser. I can't remember how this is done. Possibly by rotating the energiser coils setup whilst watching the output on a dual trace oscilloscope connected to the motor and the energiser.

Donald Haas
06-03-2014, 07:54 PM
With the commutator in the pic the motor is disconnected at least on the pos leg when the pulse is sent to the battery.
The pic doesn't show a bridge rectifier between the energizer and the cap which is needed.
John B is saying nonlinear energizer.
For example, 6 coils and 7 magnets.
The energizer would be pulsing into the cap when the motor receives it's pulse and it does look like one could use a dual trace scope to place the motor pulse in between energizer pulses as you suggest.
The energizer puts out AC, so maybe at the zero crossing once per revolution.
Regards,
bro d

Donald Haas
06-05-2014, 12:11 AM
Hi All,
Attached pdf file has switching that i'm testing.
The idea is working well.
Much less noise than Bizzy's.
I can adjust duty cycle with mag size.
regards
bro d

wrtner
06-05-2014, 01:05 PM
Hi All,
Attached pdf file has switching that i'm testing.

It is rather elaborate. I suspect that the contact points from an auto distributor would serve you well.

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wrtner
06-06-2014, 01:33 PM
The activity of the animal beings has become acutely active everywhere on this earth..

.
Moderator: RED CARD, please.
.

Donald Haas
06-08-2014, 01:50 AM
It is rather elaborate. I suspect that the contact points from an auto distributor would serve you well.

Hi wrtner,

I've tried auto distributor points in the past and have machined custom cams.

This time I want to have no drag such as I would have with points and a cam.

I've ordered some contact points that I can attach to my brass strips in my switch. We'll see how that goes.

I've wound 6 coils with #14awg, 100 turns. They may be slightly thicker than Bizzy's and I'll also try 6 coils that appear to be identical. The thicker ones that I've wound are thicker so that the stator will work with a 9" mag rotor.
Less width but the same wire and form size for 1" by 2" mags except that the form is .75" thick instead of .5" thick.

I've wound both but couldn't get all 12 from a single 10 lb spool of #14 wire.

10, 100t coils form 1 spool.


I've decided to build horizontal.

I'm going to use pillow block bearings with the grease removed and light oil added. .75" shaft.

I'll need to fit a 5/16" motor shaft with a flat to the .75" shaft. I can turn an appropriate reducer on my lathe.

I just realized that I can easily double the thickness of my 1/4" steel mag rotor or even triple it if needed for additional rotor weight.

I'll be adding steel strips to the bottom of the coils and I have the batts and 2 farad caps.

Tested the switching to see if I could keep a battery charged that was running the series wound motor. Positive results.

How are you doing with getting your build started?

Regards bro d

Donald Haas
06-14-2014, 11:19 PM
Hi All,
Continuing with build.
Degreased pillow block bearings and lubed with Lubrilon.
Soldered silver plated, copper contacts onto brass strips for switching.
Pulsed motor with switch and looks good.
Next is bore end of shaft out for smaller motor shaft.
Cast coils with metal backing strips.
Glue mags to steel rotor.
Assemble and give it a go.

bro d

Donald Haas
06-21-2014, 01:13 AM
Hi All,
Don't know if anyone is interested, but that's OK.
I'll continue what I'm doing until I'm satisfied one way or the other.

Unable to have any contact with Bizzy.

I used the alt that I had on hand to try the switches and a series wound motor and Bizzy's battery/capicitor.

Didn't expect it to do much.
Wasn't happy with the switches.

I'm about ready to pour a stator that is 6 coils, 100T, #14 wire.
I'll put iron on the backs of the coils like Bizzy did and use bearings that I think will perform better than my pillow blocks did.
Bizzy never said exactly what he was using for a "bearing system". He spoke highly of it but the shaft wobbled on top and so forth.

If one went vertical and suspended the mag rotor with a bearing and got a good straight connection between shaft and motor on the bottom, one could use the motor bearings to hold some of the weight.

Staying with horizontal for now.

HEY BUZZY! You there man?:heartbeat:

bro d

wrtner
06-21-2014, 01:17 PM
I don't think bearings are an issue. They need to be OK; that's all. JB is clear that the nature of the generator matters. Energiser rather than alternator, and ensure that the pulse to the motor is out of step with the pulse from the energiser. But Bizzy seems not bothered with this, and he may be getting disappointing results as a result.

Donald Haas
06-21-2014, 01:52 PM
I don't think bearings are an issue. They need to be OK; that's all. JB is clear that the nature of the generator matters. Energiser rather than alternator, and ensure that the motor pulse is out of step with the pulse to the energiser. But Bizzy seems not bothered with this, and he may be getting disappointing results as a result.

Hi wrtner,
I understand about the energizer instead of an alternator.
I got so stimulated with Bizzy's spirit that I'm after his build.
He was thrilled with his success and never changed his tone.

If I can't get it to fly then I'll make an energizer for the setup.

I do not understand how to tune an energizer so that the ions in the battery move backward and cause the battery to charge.

Bearden theorized it and JB apparently has done it...................

Been searching for a little larger series wound DC motors.

Fasco used to make a 1/3 and 1/4hp.

The small SW blower motors are becoming obsolete and then the next range upward seems to be winch motors with a 200A full load @12v.

Thanks for responding,:)

bro d

wrtner
06-21-2014, 03:11 PM
I got so stimulated with Bizzy's spirit that I'm after his build.
He was thrilled with his success and never changed his tone.

Has he provided any numbers? That is what counts.

I don't know what you mean by ions moving backwards. JB's basic circuit is quite conventional - it has commutators unfortunately, but apart from ensuring that the pulses are out of step, and subject to a fairly heavy flywheel, it is straightforward.

( 12v DC motors - I burnt my fingers with automobile starter motors. They are very powerful and field wound but the bearings are absolutely crap - probably because they are not used for more than a second at a time).

Donald Haas
06-22-2014, 02:47 AM
[QUOTE=wrtner;258058]

I don't know what you mean by ions moving backwards. JB's basic circuit is quite conventional - it has commutators unfortunately, but apart from ensuring that the pulses are out of step, and subject to a fairly heavy flywheel, it is straightforward.

Hi wrtner,
Tom Bearden explains my reference to ions moving in reverse right after the heading and pic:

"Tom Bearden 1984 Simple Free Energy Motor"

At the following link.

20* Bedini (http://johnbedini.net/john34/bedinibearden.html)

This is the original concept that Bedini taught to Watson.

bro d

wrtner
06-22-2014, 01:20 PM
I do not understand how to tune an energizer so that the ions in the battery move backward and cause the battery to charge.



In the first instance, I wouldn't bother. Get the gear up and running and start taking readings.

I don't understand much of what these sages say, and don't follow this statement but what we undoubtedly have is a fluctuating pulse system driving an inductive load. So, there will be a resonance peak at some frequency. This may be part of what John is driving at.

It may be a matter of adjusting the frequency of the pulses to the motor which will alter the frequency of the pulses to and from the energiser and on to the battery which is, I believe, inductive. We need resonance in this second circuit. Look for a maximum response but I am not sure exactly what you will be looking for.


[This "backwards" comment reminds me of the Turion 3 battery system]

alman
07-12-2014, 04:01 AM
Any new progress Bro d, don't visit this site too much, but saw this thread revitalized and caught up. Saw you completed window motor. Are you disappointed with it? Haven't seen to much action from your thread on the other site. Thanks for sharing your progress. Aln

Donald Haas
07-12-2014, 03:28 PM
Hi Alman,

It looks like my window motor needs much bigger wire to have much torque.

I'm using #19 and #14 might get it.

It runs at 1700rpm on 36v. 3 windings.

Runs smooth (balanced) and sounds like the vid when accelerating.

JB made a comment about Rick's lawnmower and said the fronts wheels came off the ground and it had the equivalent of #5 wire for windings.


I cast a stator with coils according to Bizzy's and have been working on improving my switching arrangement.

Havn't tried the new stator and latest switching yet.

If anyone has seen Buzzy's switching setup I would greatly appreciate a tip or 2. I would like to know what he used for contacts.

I have a 1.3hp series wound motor that will be for scaling up in time.

Good to hear form you Alman.

bro d

alman
08-14-2014, 04:04 PM
I know how much time, energy, and resources go into building projects, so thanks again for sharing. One can not possibly build them all and live a normal life with work and family. I have no advise to offer and am sorry for that. Wheely's on a lawn tractor can be had at 10 hp depending on drive from motor. 1700 rpm's is a good electric motor speed. What kind of load have you driven? Grinding wheel, water pump, fan, air compressor, etc. How about the amp draw at 36v with load and no load? Is it comparable to say a 1/3 hp conventional electric motor? Thanks again. Aln

Donald Haas
08-15-2014, 10:46 PM
Hi alman,
Sounds like you've done some building.
I've been focusing on the Tesla Switch lately.
I have several projects to get back to.

The no load amp draw at 36v on my window motor is about 1.1amp with 1700rpm.
I tried a low output axial flux alt set up and knew that bigger wire was needed. Will get back to it.
I'm very grateful for Matt Jones on the use for the Tesla switch thread

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch-139.html

bro d