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Old 07-04-2009, 02:48 AM
pneuphysics pneuphysics is offline
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 44
Originally Posted by xpskid View Post
Well, this thing is still winning ... but .. we'll keep going

Starting to wonder if cast iron is permeable enough ? or too slow ?
Pneuphysics, When you went to a serial arrangement, did you flip a coil or cross to the opposite end of the other coil ?

I need a scope Any recommendations on brand or model ?
Ebay here I come...


Known of the desired characteristics listed above were noted.
xpskid -

I would not use cast iron #1 jmho I would use cold roll or the softest steel I could find, but I'm not convinced your problem is the metal you are using. If I had built the unit you are describing I would put my effort into the armature wiring. That is what the test results are telling me. Not wired correctly. Just my thoughts.

On the scope I would get the best you can afford - the faster the better. My fluke is about 2.5 grand and worth every penny. I realize that is out of many peoples price range - if I had to replace it I probably would get one off ebay from China.

My wiring. I crossed a top coil wire over to the bottom. Flipping a coil gives you the same exact coil, flipping the electrical connections flips the NS poles. If you look at my drawing I scanned and posted that says Now at the top - consider the coil at the top to be the top coil then the wire coming off it on the right going down to the bottom coil needs to be removed from the bottom coil front and connected to the bottom coil rear. The other 2 coil wires go to the bridge rectifier. Front is facing the DC drive motor. From the front the bottom coil is wound cw starting from the front. The top coil is wound ccw starting from the front. Make sense?

Good Luck Timm,
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