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Old 11-20-2019, 11:13 PM
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rickoff rickoff is offline
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maine, USA
Posts: 3,366
I drilled the short stabilizer link mounting holes in the uprights yesterday, and began reassembling the supporting structure members, but didn't get a chance to finish reassembly because my wife had a headlamp out on the Prius, so had to chase down and install a new headlamp bulb. Anyways, I did finish up with the assembly today, and snapped a photo of the structure sitting atop a tray table. Here it is:

I wanted to get the short stabilizer links fastened as tightly as possible, so decided to use #10-24 x 1/2 inch socket head machine screws with nylon insert locknuts (nylock) to attach the short links to the anchors, and #10-24 x 1 inch socket head screws with nylock nuts to attach the links to the uprights.

It took a bit of adjusting to get the shaft into the best alignment with the bronze bushings so that the shaft would turn freely, but I have that very close to where i want it now. I found that I had to put a crescent wrench onto one of the uprights and twist it slightly so that the shaft would line up with the bushing on the opposite upright, and also made slight adjustments to the height of the wood blocks which hold the bushings. On a larger assembly I would choose to use a flanged ball bearing assembly, but decided to keep it simple and inexpensive for this small build. I think the bronze bushings will be fine, and the shaft should turn even better after I apply some light oil to the bushings.

When I am ready to attach the two wheels to the shaft, I will only need to remove the two screws from one of the uprights where it is attached to the short stabilizer link, and I can then pull that upright sideways just enough to allow removing the shaft.

The wheels are cut and drilled, and I have mounted the shaft hubs on them as is seen in earlier photos, but I'll have to think about how I want to mount the pipes. They will be inserted in the 27 millimeter holes that I drilled in the wheels, and each wheel will be sandwiched between the 90 degree pipe elbows and the pipe end caps. That part of the assembly should be easy enough, and I plan on using a bead of silicone to seal the end caps, rather than cementing them to the short pipes that pass through the wheels. That should be enough to give a water tight seal, and yet allow disassembly if I should desire to modify the build, or place the pipes on the smaller wheels that I had made earlier for a comparison test. Each pipe will lay directly against an elbow of the next pipe mounted to the wheel, and this will provide the desired lay angle for the pipes. I haven't yet decided upon the method of securing the outer ends of the pipes to their positions, but am leaning towards use of U-shaped cradles for each pipe. Because the long pipes emerge from the elbows leaving an intervening space of 0.775 inch between each pipe and the wheel surface, the pipes must be supported with that same spacing near the outer ends. So, I'll be mulling over some ideas regarding a simple yet effective method of securing the pipes. Feel free to offer a solution if you have an idea. I do have some 3/4 inch plastic tube straps that I had obtained when I purchased the pipes and fittings, as I thought they might come in handy for securing the pipes. I suppose I could cut some wood blocks to the desired 0.775 inch spacing thickness and attach these blocks to the wheel as strap attachment points. They would have to be identically made and fastened, of course, so as not to skew the initial balance of the wheel.
"Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

Last edited by rickoff; 12-03-2019 at 12:58 AM. Reason: changed photo link
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